1995-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier Replacement Wiper Blades:
Yes, they will. I have a set of 4 on my 97' Chevy 2 door and they fit the rims fine. The tires also fall within a 3% diameter of each other and shouldn't effect the brakes and will be a safe tire change. If you're going from the manufactures tire (195/70/14) to 195/75/14 the only major difference you will notice is a 3-4% difference (a slower difference) in the way your speedometer reads speed. This isn't much, but keep in mind, if you're speedometer reads 65-70, you're probably actually going 67-72ish. Aside from that minor difference, the tires feel and function just like the specified manufactures tires did for me. Follow the PSI ratings on the tire, as apposed to the ones on the door, as those are for the original tires. Hope that helps ya some :D
I had this problem and took my 1990 cavalier to a shop. Nothing came up on diagnostic so they decided my ignition module and coil packs needed to be replaced. This fixed my problem but costed me around 450.00!
>Hey Darlene==Use a wrench on the bolt through the idler pulley to raise up on the pulley and take the tension off of the belt. There should be a schematic for the routing of the belt on the fan shroud, If not, draw one before you remove the belt. Don't rely on memory. GoodluckJoe
Comments from KenJudy: Hi. I just had to replace the alternator on my daughter's 1997 2.2 liter Chevy Cavalier. "GoodluckJoe" gives good advice but here are some details that I figured out thay may help. For mine the idler pulley is the one depicted as an X below. Using a 15MM wrench on the bolt in the middle of the idler pulley clockwise loosens tension on the belt. The only way I could get the belt back on was to put it on the idler pulley last.
( 0-1 O-2 )
X-3 ) ( O-4
( O-5 O-6 )
0-1 power steering
X-3 idler pulley
O-4 water pump
O-5 main crankshaft
O-6 air condioner
Very good drawing from KenJudy, I looked at mind and had a time till I got it right. Some car shops store will lend out tools if you can find one ask for a serpentine wrench. It's the greats little tool you need, basicly it's a flat bar with a socket on the end. You use the 15mm socket and just put it on the bolt in the middle of the idler pulley and then pull towards the front of the car. Slip the belt off the smooth pulley and release the pully slowly. Pull the belt out and get the new one in place, then pull the wrench towards you again. There is a spring inside the motor you can't see. You may have to just hook it on the power steering pulley abit and move the wrench to pull it again. Once it's on all the pulleys are lined up just release the pully slowly. Get all your stuff out of the way and get the car a quick turn over and check every pulley, if everything looks good start the car. Just let it run for abit, and there you go. I bought a serpentine wrench at a discount auto store for $12. I'll keep the old belt and the wrench in my trunk just in case.
hello this is Mark the moast important part in changing the serpentine belt is the SERPENTINE WRENCH without it you wont be able to get the tension off belt because you think there is not enought room to get it off with a rachet or wrench
Ok, the firing order for the 4 cylinder engine is 1-3-4-2. Judging by the fact that you asked for as much info as possible, you're probably also going to want the diagram. I got hte firing order out of my Haynes Maunal, and I would recommend that you get one too. They are about 12 dollars at most auto places. I personally got mine at Autozone. You may also be able to find a diagram on the net, but I was unable to after looking for about five mins. Firing Order:
For the 2.0L, 122cu. in. (Vin) Code 1), 1987-89 2.2L, 134 cu. in. (VIN Code G & 4), 1990-92 4 cyl, OHV Distributorless: 1-3-4-2
E-mail me for a diagram
Back side of the engine near where the transmission mounts to the engine. You have to jack up the car and crawl under it to see it. There are two sensors there.....the crankshaft sensor and the knock sensor.
2001 chevy cavalier 2.2L VIN-4 If chain broke or jumped: Remove timing chain cover(may help to remove two bottom studs on cover that pass threw oil pan use the two nuts on them as jam nuts on the studs). Put #1 cyl. t.d.c with crank. timing mark pointing @ center of the chain tensioner bracket. Remove cam shaft pulley remove chain, reinstall pulley(without chain) and turn cam shaft until cam shaft mark also points to center of tensioner bracket. (I removed valve cover to make sure the two push rods for #1 cyl. were relaxed (They turned with two fingers)Remove cam pulley again place new chain over crank gear while sliding cam pulley back on. Tighten cam pulley insure both gear marks still are aligned with bracket center.Connect battery Test run for 5 sec. with covers off.Disconnect battery when engine starts and sounds normal. Now put everything back together
use a razor blade and slice a small slit the size of the wire in the rubber boot that the brake cable or throttle cable goes through, it may be easier to put the wire through the steering columb boot. after u put a slit in the rubber boot just push the wire through.
Note:The accumulator/drier should be replaced whenever the compressor is replaced Caution:On models with a Delco Loc 2 or Theftlock audio system be sure the lockout feature is turned off before proceeding * Have the AC system discharged.Disconnect the neagtive battery cable * Clean the compressor thourghly around the refrigerant line fittings * Remove the serpentine belt * Raise and support it securely vehicle on jackstands * Disconnect the electrical connector from the AC compressor * Disconnect the suction and discharge lines from the compressor.Both lines are mounted to the back of the compressor with a plate secured by one bolt.Plug the open fittings and discard the seals between the plate and compressor * Unbolt and remove the rear compressor mount.It may be necessary to remove the right side engine mount bolt and raise the engine to access the rear compressor mount bolts * Remove the compressor to front bracket bolts and nuts and remove the compressor from the engine compartment
Autozone offers a service to read the codes for free with their scan tool and I'd think that they'd be willing to reset it after reading it.Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.
The ETS light comes on usually in responce to a cooling system problem in Cavaliers. The first thing to do is check your fuses. The Check Engine light always comes on when the ETS light comes on. You need to be concerned with this ETS system first. Usually it is your 30 amp fuse that needs to be replaced. On most cav's the fuse box us under your hood, on the right hand side. There are two fuses that are for the coolent system. Check these fuses first. If the fuse is blown, change it and the dash light should go out. If the fuse blows in a week or so again, then try to read the codes like the guys above say. When the fuse it out, the code reader is just going to say that you need to check your fuse. This is what happened in my car, and my mechanic said it was pretty common in these cars.
ETS stands for Enhanced Traction System, and has nothing to do with emissions or cooling. The Check Engine light does mean the emissions system has a problem. Have the computer scanned for the codes by someone who is able to interpret the codes and not just throw parts at the problem. This takes skill and knowledge, so take it to a professional, and don't waste money guessing.
the easy way is to buy a used steering column from a junk yard. If you have the proper tools [steering wheel puller,tilt wheel spring intaller and remover,torx bits] its simple ! 1st remove the steering wheel 2nd take the 3 torx bolts out,unscrew turn signal arm, unplug the harness under the dash then lift the switch out. Installation is the same.
I think last answer is not a good one. Simnply remove three screws at the bottom front part of the steeering column poastic covers and remove the plastic convers. There are 2 torx bols at tha left side. Remove them.
1. Drain the cooling system.
2. Remove the lower radiator hose from thermostat outlet.
3. Remove the thermostat outlet bolts and outlet. Remove the thermostat.
4. Clean the mating surfaces of the radiator outlet and the radiator outlet pipe.
1. Install the thermostat.
2. Install the thermostat outlet and bolts.
3. Install the coolant outlet attaching bolts and tighten the thermostat outlet bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
4. Install the lower radiator hose to thermostat outlet.
5. Fill the cooling system.
6. Inspect for leaks.
(STEP 1) Remove the 2 screws that are in the door handle.
(STEP 2) Using a door handle remover found at your local auto parts store for about 3 bux, or better yet, a butterknife...remove the pin holding on the window crank handle (The pin looks like a horseshoe kinda) Then remove the crank handle.
(STEP 3) Remove all the screws along the perimeter of the door panel, I think there are about 5.
(STEP 4) Now just pull the panel out and up. If you here small "snaps" it is normal because it is also held on with clips.
just pry them out. two metal clips hold it in.
This is a fairly simple task that anyone can do as long as they have the right tools. First, jack up the car and take off the wheel. If you are working on the left side first, make sure to turn the wheel all the way to the left it make reaching the bolts easier and you can get more torque on them. Also, pop the hood and take the cap off of the brake fluid tank in order to relieve some pressure. After you have the wheel off and the wheel turned you will see the rotor and the caliper housing. (The rotor is the circle) the housing the other. You have to separate the two. In order to do this you will need a 3/8" hex wrench. There are 2 internal hex blots one at the top of the housing and one at the bottom on the backside of the housing. Place the hex in there and lossen the bolts. It's really nice to have an air tool to take the lugs off the wheels and also to take these bolts off. If they are stubborn use a little heat you may also try some spray lubricant but if you do make sure to wipe everything down really well to remove it when you are done. If you leave it on it will be really bad for your brakes and it will make them not as effective. Towards the end the bolts may appear to just spin so use a pair of pliers to turn the bolts and pull you should be able to see the bolt clear back in the housing. Once clear pull the housing off and you will have access to the brake pads. While you're doing this, don't leave the assembly hanging by the hose -- support it either on a block or hang it on the hub assembly. Take the old pads out using a flat head screwdriver and then squeeze the piston (the round thing that one pad was mounted on). I use one of those padded inside/outside clamps but you can also use a large C-clamp and a piece of wood to bottom the piston out and place the new pads in. I would recommend a little anti-squeak on the back of the pads. After the pads are in place put the housing back on like how it looked before you took it off and tighten the internal hex bolts and put the wheel back on and you should be good to go to the other side and do the same thing.
You'll notice that the brake fluid level rises when you do this. If you added brake fluid when it was getting low, it might now be spilling over. Next time the brake fluid is getting low, check or replace the brake pads before 'topping off' the brake fluid reservoir.
Please don't forget to torque bolts when reassembling. Brake Caliper bolts to 38 ft/lb & Lug Nuts to 75 ft/lb. These ratings were found from other online sources; if you have more accurate info please update this.
This is one of the easiest headgaskets out there to change! I recommend a mechanic w/ experience though! You do not want to get in over your on this type of repair.
Beware...I found a good buildup of coolant muck at the no. 4 cylinderwater jacket. This is where my gasket leaked...I suspect local overheating.
With all due respect, you must purchase the appropriate manual for your vehichle. That said, '87-92 Chevy cavs are some of-if not THE- easiest cars to work on and require the least amount of steps to replace their head gaskets. You will need a full set of tools including the belt tensioner tool and a torque wrench and a good jack/jackstands. If you have all of this the step-by-step procedure in the manual can be followed with little or no difficulty. Start by cleaning the visible engine areas with degreaser and a cloth and by labeling all vaccum and fuel lines before you start so your hands are clean and the labels will be read once your done (nothing worse than a greasy, illegible label to confuse matters once you're putting everything back together). Have several small boxes (shoe boxes are great) labeled "front" and "rear" ready first so that any parts can be easily stored, taken inside for cleaning, then set aside for re-assembly. Label your spark plug wires and buy new plugs (and wires too..why not) and a new thermostat so that you know that your repaired gasket/engine has no other points of failure. My manual shows 19 steps for removal and 19 steps for re-assembly but remember...one step could be more complicated than it reads and a more complete explaination of each step can be cross-referenced in subsequent manual chapters. Manuals are about $15 and only the simplest jobs (ie, window cleaning and tire inflation) should be attempted without a manual.
Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicatedprocess, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions goto the related question on the right side of the page"How do you replace a head gasket?"
try at http://www.freeadsinusa.com/cars
If it is aftermarket:there are 2 plugs over your ignition coil on the left plug there is a white wire on the right plug is a black wire its one of those two. splice it spread the rubber apart wrap the green wire(tach lead) from the tach around the exposed wire like a T and tape it off. Black(-) wire to the negative of the battery and the red(+)...pull out the fuse for your wipers stick the wire in the fuse hole you should see the meter jump when you put the red(+) in the proper positive side of fuse hole stick the fuse back in pinching the red wire to hold it.There are 2 loops of wire on the back of the tach right? cut em both if its a 4 cylinder. tape em off so they don't touch. If its 6 cylinder you only gotta cut one, don't know which one it is thought you can figure the rest. that's how i did my 99 sunfire.
Something is wrong with your A/C. I would not consider repairing an A/C on my own. You need to go to a specialized shop. Your A/C may be leaking gas. If the gas leak is minimal, you may decide to refill it witout fixing it. But in most of the cases you'll want to fix that leak. Something may also be wrong with the electronics in your A/C system. Or if you're lucky, it may simply be that the A/C fuse has blown. So, check the fuse, and if it's ok, have a professional look at the problem.
2 gallons of dex-cool will do it
Hey Roy== It is grounded through the steering box. If it has a rag universal joint there is supposed to be a ground wire to cross the joint. GoodluckJoe
On a Cavalier, always check the ground wire going from battery negative to the plate under the battery. That connection gets dirty and fails, and everything including the steering shaft gets its ground through that. If you are getting low voltage at your steering shaft, that connection is likely the problem.
Here is a link to an illustrated step-by-step procedure for replacting a Vanagon ignition switch: http://carboncow.net/vanagon/projects/ignition_switch.htm
First disconnect the negative battery cable, then unplug the diodes from the alternator, (should be the only plug). Next unscrew the battery cable (waring, if u did not connect the negative battery cable this wire it hot at all times, so you can get shocked if its still connected) then remove the belt, remove the bolts and it wil come out, just put the new one in, bolts in, all wires back to the same place and the belt back on.
Prep: Pop the hood and take off the brake fluid reservoir top( this will allow the caliper piston to be pushed back)
Tools: Large Allen wrench, med/large flat-head screw driver, STAR attachment
Assuming that you know how to take to tire off:
For the front left, turn the wheel all the way to the left ( help you get a better view) place a flat head screw driver between the rotor and the old brake pad, this make take a few mins. but your goal is to push the piston back so that it is flush or as far back as it can go.
Next, you are looking for 2 bolts these are hex bolts (they are not hex bolts. They are *STAR* bolts that are shaped like an asterisk* and require a special star tool you can get at any automotive parts store), unscrew the bolts and remove the caliper from around the rotor. The pad closest to the engine of the car just pops out of the piston ( the hollow circle that you pushed back) the other pad will take a little prying with your flat head screwdriver, but it is relatively easy to take off as well.
Next Simply replace the old pads with the new ones. When installing the new pads ensure that the shape of the pad is angled in the same way as the rotor.
Finally, place the caliper back on the rotor and tighten the screws back up and replace the tire... be sure to put the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir
Doing the right side is exactly the same with the exception of turning the wheel the opposite direction to get the best view..
==a tip when trying to push the piston back on the brake calipers, is to take a small c clamp and attach it to the caliper, leave the old inside brake pad in, to prevent damage to your piston, turn c clamp slowly, until piston bottoms out, and when replacing brake pads, a rule of the thumb is to have your rotors turned down, but its best to just replace them, since turning them down cost about 20 bucks, new ones cost about 30, and i never did have very good luck with turning them down, they seem to warp again!! god luck
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