This is for the manual passenger seat only! This area is hard to see/discover with the seat installed. I used a mirror and looking under the back of the seat/bottom you can see a 'Flipper'(one right and one left actually), it's easy to see how they move while operating the bar in the front. These 'Flippers' have 3 short rods per track that they pull toward the middle line of the seat. I say they look like nails since in any position at least one(1)of them will not be all the way down and will stick up looking like a nailhead, but the other two will(usually) be down. I have found that these Flippers get bent out of shape and cannot retract these "nails" all the way toward the centerline of the seat. Rebend these flippers so that they can fully retract the nails. If you are just trying to get the seat to move so you can get it out of the car, looking under the back of the seat, locate these flippers and pry them so that they draw/pull all of their(3)nailheads toward the centerline of the seat. When all three nailheads on each side are equal "height" the seat should be moveable. Now if I could only figure out why the seatbelts are fully retracted into the seat and won't release! But I'm betting I'll figure this one out this morning! I think an application of voltage(car battery) to the orange and the black wire is the cure. We shall see!(cue: evil laugh)"MUUAHA-HA-HA-HA-HA!"

147 foot pounds

Either coil packs or module i had same problem on my 2.2 missing 1 or 2 cylinders and clutch not fully disengauging because of lack of power

36mm

9 to 13 LBS if it has a carburetor.

For fuel injected vehicles the required pressure is a minimum of 50 psi and a max of 60 psi on the rail.

I heard on a reputable tv news report a couple years ago that if you overfill your tank , you know continue to fill after the nozzle automatically shuts off, to top off or round up that extra dollar, that the extra amount of gas causes the float to go above and beyond what the manufacturer designed and has the system calibrated for, overextending it , which can cause it to stick altogether in that position or can give faulty readings and stick intermittently, or cease to function. The repairs are costly because this all goes on inside the tank, and as they are read by computer, you are talking extra money to have recalibrated. It can also make a check engine light come on.

I removed the entire power antenna assembly and could not find any way possible to separate the mast from the motor assembly. Odd, since Mitsubishi sold me an antenna mast.

Caution:On models equipped with Delco-Loc 2 or Theftlock audio systems make sure you have activation code * Disconnect the negative battery cable * Remove the drivebelt on 2.2L engines.Remove the air intake duct from the engine on 2.3L and 2.4L engines * Disconnect the inlet and out hoses from the power steering pump * Unbolt the power steering pump from the bracket on 2.2L engines or from the rear of the camshaft housing on 2.3L and 2.4L engines * Remove the pump * On 2.2L engines remove the pulley from the power steering pump with a suitable pulley removal tool * Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the pump bolts and fittings securely * Prime the pump by turning the pulley in the reverse direction to that of normal rotation until the air bubbles cease to emerge from the fluid when observed through the reservoir filler cap * Install the drivebelt * Bleed the power steering system

How do you remove and replace wiper switch on 2002 Chevy Cavalier

perhaps your neutral safety switch is going bad. or it was just misaligned.

there are two screws holding the light assembly to the car. Remove the two and replace after removing headlight

valve or rocker clearence for a 1995 chevy 2.2

It sounds to me like you might have a brake shoe dragging. Try coasting to a stop and then accelerate and see if the noise is still there. The noise could be from a front shoe that is hanging up when pressure is applied to stop the car. It could be caused by a bad caliper piston or warped rotors. Kind of a hard problem to diagnose but sounds like the most probable cause is in the brake system. Hope this helps

There isn't one. I can't remember where exactly it is, but there is a small plug on the trans itself. You have to remove the plug and the fluid level should be to the bottom of the hole. There isn't one on all setups. If you don't see it between the engine and the battery then there isn't one. In that case there is a small plug on the trans itself. You have to remove the plug and the fluid level should be to the bottom of the hole.

Sounds like the starter solenoid is sticking, could be faulty. You might have to pull it out and bench test it. First put a multimeter or test light on the starter solenoid wire (without it being connected to the starter) and check that it stops supplying power when you switch the key off to make sure you don't have any wiring issues.

Incoming!

Prop open the hood of the car, grab a straight-edge screwdriver or upholstery removal driver (seems to work better for me) and remove the small, round-headed clips that hold the plastic cover that spans the front of the car over the headlights, then remove the cover itself.

Now, with the cover off, look down directly at the headlight assembly - you'll notice a small rectangular slit cut out right where your headlight lens and signal lens meet.

Grab a long screwdriver and put it down that slit and there is a clip that holds the signal lens in place using the headlight assembly. Use the screwdriver to unclip the signal lens as you pull on the lens to get it loose from the headlight assembly. If you can't see the clip, just grab a flashlight and shine it down into the hold and you'll see it, it's a pretty big clip.

Once you have pulled the signal lens out, you will need a large Torx bit and a ratchet to take off the 2 large silver Torx bolts that are holding the headlight assembly down. You can also use just a regular hex socket of the appropriate size to get these off.

Now with those two bolts removed, it's easy sailing - just pull up on the headlight assembly and out, and now you have easy access to the back of the headlight lens where you will now be able to see where the headlight plugs in.

Around the light is a black plastic locking piece that locks the lens in place - simply twist it off and the light can be taken out of the lens. There's also a blue clip that holds the light into the electrical socket, which can sometimes be a pain in the butt to get off, but just take your time - you don't want to break these parts 'cause they're expensive to replace!

After you have the blue clip off, you can now just take out the light, replace it with your new one (make sure you don't touch the bulb!), and reverse these directions to put the lenses back in properly, and repeat for the other side of the car.

An impala can jump more than 9 meters and 2.5 meters high.

Open trunk & pull away carpet from behind the lights.

To change the valve cover gaskets on a 1998 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L, disconnect the battery cables. Then use a wrench to loosen the valve cover bolts. Remove the old gasket from the cover and the manifold using a cleaner designed for this purpose (found at automotive parts stores). Put adhesive on the manifold, and valve cover. Line with a new gasket on the valve cover and replace the valve covers. Tighten the bolts and re-connect the battery.

If it's an automatic transmission it can stay in the car. Simply unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel and the trans from the engine. If it's a manual trans it's not that simple. You don't have enough room to slide the engine forward from the input shaft on the trans. It's easier to pull them both together.

what year and engine?