what year and engine?

yes

The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn�t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4�s may have a steel plate that may need removal, Automatic or manual transmission, the list goes on. Fifthly, What additional parts will be required? Long life coolant or standard coolant, R12 or R134a air conditioning freon if it needs to be discharged or replaced? Additional adapters other fluids that may need to be added or changed? All of this will affect price. Sixthly, is the car a new car or an older car? Labor manuals or guides are set up based on a new car. Additional time may be required due to seized or rusted bolts, additional aftermarket accessories that were installed etc. So you can see where there is a great potential for variances. I offer this insight: If you take it to an independent garage like I always recommend, consider how long they have been in business. What is the quality of there work, are they honest? (see the FAQ how do you choose an auto repair shop for additional insights).

I have a 97 Cavalier which I hit a median and have to replace a strut and other parts. For one strut it approx costs 216.00 and for two depending on how many miles you have in your car it would be approx 420.00. (Can B Cheaper)It depends where you shop and get the repair work. Also the miles and condition of your car are big factors too.

chevy cobalt

Im betteing one of your motor mounts is broken and making the car shake. does the engine move when you gun it in neutral?

ajust the idle of the car.

The car has no idle ajustment it is controled by the PCM check the motor mounts and check your idle control motor. Also have you intake and plentium checked and cleaned also run some fuel injector cleaner every tank full.

dirt420ba BE SAFE!!!!!

use a razor blade and slice a small slit the size of the wire in the rubber boot that the brake cable or throttle cable goes through, it may be easier to put the wire through the steering columb boot. after u put a slit in the rubber boot just push the wire through.

check your fuse. i had the same problem. that might be it. I doubt a fuse, the clicking is probably the horn relay that you hear. Fair chance the horn or connection at the horn is the problem. The clicking noise is the relay, and since it is clicking I doubt that your switch is bad, so check the fuse and also check the horn (hook it to the battery).

The purpse of valve lifters is exactly what it says, to lift the valve.

Drill out the rivets and bolt on the aftermarket ball joint assembly. check torque specs on it!

Engine overheating. Check the radiator for leaks in the hose pipe or radiator, otherwise the water pump is faulty and will need replacing

Remove the belt from your 2002 Chevy Cavalier alternator. Remove the wiring harness from the back of the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install your new alternator.

You should be able to pull your e-brake up ONE click on these cars. This should turn off day-time running lights without actually setting the e-brake at all.

Let it set for about 2 hours or push the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it there while turning the engine over. Rarely do fuel injected engines flood. If they do then something is wrong with the firing system.

I'm assuming this: you probably ran out of oil via leak or something. Well your engine probably overheated from no oil/ coolant. It seized up and won't restart? Well, my suggestion is if nothing is blown pull the engine and do a full rebuild and see if that helps.

ss

Sounds like the horn is not making a ground. Did you do anything with the horn? What else didnt work before you replaced the fuse? I have the same problem. Prior to replacing the fuse and getting the clicking back, the horn stuck and ran continuously, which popped the fuse. Another question: where is the actual horn located on a '98 Escort? Thanks. Same problem here. My horn button clicks, but I have constant 12VDC at the horn terminal. The horn itself is behind passenger side headlight, above bumber bracket. Can you say "scraped knuckles?"

Drain the Cavaliers radiator. Remove the top radiator hose, and the inlet pipe. Take the thermostat out from under the inlet pipe and replace it. Reinstall the pipe and hose, then refill the radiator.

Around 2300-2500 lbs

about 10 years old, some live to up to 16, 17 though this is rare.

If you want to do it yourself, go to this site. It has step by step information on how to change your transmission fluid if you have an automatic transmission without a dipstick.

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=11&i=88582&t=88570#88582

If you are not comfortable with changing your fluid yourself, go to a dealership

it is located on top of the engine on the drivers side. It has a connector and a vacume plastic hose hooked to it. Very easy to get too.It has a lot to do with fuel delivery if it is not working because it tells the computer at what altitude the vehicle is operating, the computer uses this info to control the amount of fuel that the fuel injectors are putting into the engine.If it is working correctly it should have about 3 volts on the side going back to the computer. Most cars made after 1996 have a MAF (meter) sensor instead, which does the same thing sensing the amount of air that is entering the engine through the air filter hose located right after the air filter.When it gets dirty it quits working and it can be removed and cleaned. When it does not work people seem to think that the reason their is a lean or rich code on the computer it is automatically the 02 sensor. Not so as autozone tells people.It most likely is a dirty MAF air flow meter not reporting to the ECM (eloctronic control module)which controlls fuel delivery.

Pull back the upholstery in the trunk near the light to see the backside of the taillight assembly. You will see a black piece of plastic with wires running into it. This assembly holds the bulb and screws into the red tail light assembly. Lightly twist it counter-clockwise (facing the rear of the car) to unattach the light wiring and pull it. From there you can rock the bulb a little as you pull it out. Plug in the new light, insert the assembly back into the tail light, and twist the opposite direction to snap it back into place. Should take you less than 5 minutes from start to finish. You do not need to remove the entire light assembly to access the bulb.

3057LL bulbs are what I used.

2 gallons of dex-cool will do it

There are only three mounting points. Next to the coolant fill bottle,underneeth the engine by the timing chain housing, and on the drivers side of the transmission by the left front wheel.