Generally, no. Some dealers will offer a period of time that allow customers to return a car (i.e. 72 hours). But in most cases, once you drive it off the lot, you own it. Suggestion: Have the dealer put in the contract a clause for a 3 day trial period. This is the only way to get that kind of 3 day test drive. ANSWER They will make a profit too so exampleifyou buy a car for 23000 and the next day you sell it they might say the price is now 21000 so u should go tomany dealers for the best price on your car
The criuise control is on or the cruise control needs to be worked on. Applying the brake or if your car is a standard shift, pushing in the clutch should turn it on. Needless to say, get this fixed. It could be very dangerous. Check the fuse box for a fuse called Speed control. Pull the fuse until it can be fixed.
Check all linkage for wear or play,jack under each a-arm one at a time ,move tires left to right for linkage/ up and down for bearings & ball joints and cv axles if you get play or pop's and clicks have some one follow the noise. Shake's during braking, rotors are warped due to hot rotors hitting cold water puddles on the road. Shakes to the left or right,if the steering wheel shakes to the left put the left front tire on the right side, test drive if it starts shaking to the right that will be the bad tire,vise-versa if shakes to the right .Replace that tire and get a alignment check,steering wheel shakes are front tires,the whole car skaking is the rear tires.This is due to uneven wear on the tire the eye can't see. WORN CVC OR U-JOINTS, UNBALANCED TIRES( COULD BE CAUSED BY LOSS OF A WHEEL WEIGHT, MUD OR SNOW IN YOUR WHEEL), BENT RIM, ECT. If you have directional tires make sure they are on the right sides LOTS of THINGS; First define when it shakes and how it shakes. Tires at highway speed; tire balance / improper wear (may be alignment issue). I have had intermittent vibration from using a different tire on front. When Brakes are applied: front rotors warped (worst at higher speed)but I have found numerous steering linkage issues (vibration at slower / not all speeds). Steering Linkage- vibration when hitting bumps on highway: tire rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, panhard rod ends (if equiped), ball joints, could also be worn steering box (usually hard steering issues). There could be suspension issues like a damaged strut (not just worn-out). Checking: No engine, running get under front end and have someone turn steering wheel lightly back and forth, any joints should move in tandem (no looseness). You'll look for movement that is not consistent. Another way is to bottle jack under lower A arm on one side / get wheel off ground, grab wheel and move laterally back/forth from outside vehicle. There should be no play or noises when pulling hard. THEN put tire iron under wheel and pull up. Wheel should move vertically without shifting. This checks ball joint play. Look for inconsistent movement of wheel. Some have upper/lower ball joint, some have lower ball joint/strut. Sorry, does take some experience to know what is acceptable. If it bad problem it can be seen. Service manuals sometimes describe maximum movement for the technicians. Diagnois FIRST before replacing parts.
Often, this sort of an issue crops up when your wheels are inappropriately balanced, or the tires have worn unevenly. But sometimes loose bolts of the wheel or a distorted brake rotor could be the culprits. In case of a disfigured brake rotor consider replacement. The other issues can be taken care of by an expert. You can learn more about it Automotive-online.com
When was the last time you had brake work done? It sounds like the brake rotors cannot dissipate the heat from the heavy braking. If they overheat they can temporarily warp until they cool back down. I see this typically on rotors that were machined (sometimes still within acceptable limits) or from poor quality rotors.
Check the tie rod ends for wear. Have a friend rock the steering wheel side to side in the center and listen for a thunking or slapping noise at the rear of the front tires. Jack up the car in front and rock the wheel side to side (hands at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) and check for looseness.
One or possibly both of the brake rotors are out of wack and you need to replace them. I had the same problem on my 97 accord. I replaced the passenger side rotor and car is running and braking just fine.
Warped rotors. Get them lathed (Sp?) and don't forget new pads. If you leave the old pads on they'll wear grooves into the new(er) rotors thus making their life shorter and the problem re-arising.
A garage that my cousin had taken his '94 Buick Century to listed that it needed front struts, upper strut mount plates and inner tie rods. But after seeing these other answers here and helpful answers in other auto forums while researching in the mid part of April, 2005, my suspicions were confirmed that the shaking-only-when-braking on his car was caused by front brake rotor warpage (Although, later on, he also started to notice that when he put one finger on the steering wheel while cruising without braking, there was a very slight vibratory movement of the steering wheel...which I had summed up to just commonly being the brake pads resting lightly against the rotors even when no pressure is applied since rotor calipers do not have any type of return spring which would pull the brakes away any further). So just recently (4-21-05), against the "professional's" conclusions and $500.00 estimate (who had listed almost everything else but rotors as the cause), I put on all new front rotors and brakes (a total of about $51.00) and the car then braked beautifully with no vibration whatsoever. Vullin
This might help....
Did mine yesterday, alternator cost $96.00. The engine does not need to come apart, just some items on firewall above the alt. and coolant resv.
One of three spots. First, right behind the gas tank. Second, -IN- the gas tank (have a professional do it if that's the case, you'll save yourself money in extra repairs and alot of headache), and third is on the driver side frame near front door.Answerautozone.com has online manuals that give step by step how to AnswerAccording to my Haynes manual, the inline fuel filter is mounted on the frame above the rear of the fuel tank near the filter neck. Replacement is no 5 min. job, since it involves draining the gas tank. Best done by a garage, but if you're determined (and very careful) you can get the manual for about $20.00 at most auto parts stores like Napa. If not in stock, they'll order one for you. The instructions for this job are detailed quite well in the manual, and they warn you about any hazards involved.
The only hard part is that you've got to get a big crescent wrench or pipe wrench onto the square extrusion on the belt tensioner and relieve the pressure so that you can slip the belt off (and back onto) the alternator. Once you've done that (the tensioner is one of the small pulleys on the side of the engine that the belt is wrapped around - it's very firm but WILL move with enough pressure; WATCH your knuckles!!! If you slip it can hurt like heck!)it's a simple matter of pulling the wiring plug off and undoing the bolts that hold the alternator.
There should be a belt/pulley diagram sticker on the radiator support near the front of the car that will show you the belt routing, make sure that the belt goes back on the right way around the proper pulleys! It can take a minute to make sure you've got it wound round everything the right way (and again, watch your knuckles with that tensioner!) Good luck!
I know the battery is behind the driver side frn front of the front wheel, remove the wheel, then remove the cover that guards from water, and there it is....
I have just changed the battery on my sons 96 breeze. Its easier if you remove the left front tire. In front of the wheel well, you will see a plastic cover held in place with several clips that can be removed by turning the clips 1/4 turn to left. pull the plastic cover off and you will see the battery. Use 1/2 in. socket to remove hold down, and 5/16 socket to remove cables. Total time Approx. 15 minutes.
somebody suggested looking in the beep beep manual
The chemical that's used in the AC system breaks down. You need to have your system recharged.
Above answer is incorrect because the A/C system is a closed system, it takes 20-30 years for the freon to break down. More likely you have a leak which needs to be tracked down with a/c dye and a speacial light for detecting the dye.
Actually, the person above ME is wrong. After 1993, cars no longer used freon for their A/C systems. They made the switch (from R12, or freon, to R134a) in 1994. So the first answer is most probably correct, get the refrigerant replaced by a licensed person.
I have found that the brake rotors are warped. Why, it could be a number of causes. However, I recently had mine turned for 15.00 ( Did the other work myself) and the vibration has gone away. Now I need to work on getting the suspension tightened back up. Hope this helps.
If brakes are squeeking and you are low on brake fluid Probably time for new linings or pads, I would check them before just adding brake fluid. Brake fluid resevior should be located on firewall on driver's side
Most of this is routine Maintenance with parts one would normally expect to wear out. Some, such as the Timing Belts may not have needed replacing, but I didn't want to wait for them to Break. Great Car, the most reliable vehicle I've ever had, I love it! I hope to get well over 200,000 miles with it!
- Jon in Sacramento, Ca. -Answer
the highest i have seen one go is 162,000 miles but that's just looking around not to be exactAnswer
We have a 1996 Breeze with 175,000 miles on it. Repairs in the past 3 years have included 2 timing belts, water pump, both oxygen sensors, and other non engine repairs such as 2 fuel pumps, wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends, etc.Answer
My girlfriend's Breeze had a head gasket replaced at around 44K miles, and another one at 75K. The car is at around 80K now and needs a new transmission. Sad thing is she drives it like an old woman. Throughout the life of the car we've had to replace numerous electrical sensors and components, including the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) a few times.
If you're looking for a reliable car, a Breeze/Stratus/Cirrus/Neon/Sebring are about as far as you'll get from it. We're currently selling the car to buy her a Civic as a replacement.Answer
I have a 1997 Breeze I am at 214678mls, not bad for a little car. No I have not had to do a lot of work to it.Answer
My breeze has 433,000 km believe it or not that over 250 thousands miles.
My 1999 Plymouth breeze has 157000 miles and has had minimal repairs and is in exquisite condition. i love it.
We have a 1997 Breeze, 176,000 miles just now (Jan of 2010) and no major problems,
Just had to do Brakes Twice, one emissions thing can't remember what is was called some control module of some sort bout $200.00 and about 3000 miles ago the original
Bosch starter was replaced by me very easy to do. and a new battery last winter
to replace the original, starting to rust a lot on the bottom rails so if i get a flat tier in the right rear it's gonna be hard to change it, great car though,Answer
My Breeze is over 254,000 miles and still going strong.
50 MPH = 80.45 KM/H.
Most common (but are not restricted to) causes of noise and vibration problems:
1. A poorly seated tire on the rim 2. The tire or wheel assembly are out of balance 3. Rim that are out of roundness 4. Tire that are out of roundness 5. Irregular tire wear
If there are problem(s) with your tires or the way they have been installed, they will most likely begin to shake and vibrate your vehicle at between 50 and 65 MPH ( 80.45 and 104.585 KM/H).
There's a high chance that the problem may be cause by unbalance wheels, a visit to your local Tire mechanics, to have the tires balance may be able to eliminate the problem.
Check your tie rod ends, balljoints, and wheel bearings. However, it is most likely that you have a bad tire (uneven spots / "runout"), a tire out of balance, or a bent rim. If you have your tire balanced and all of your suspension components are fine and it still shakes, its most likely a bent rim. The only way to fix this is to get a new rim, but that's expensive. What I did was rotate my tires, and the shake went away (bent rim moved to back). This is not the proper way to fix it, but it worked for me.
It could also be your CV Shafts, depending on if its a front wheel drive car or not, Honda, Toyota, Nissan, etc.
see answer for the 1999 Breeze
Yes, have a compression test run on the engine. Any good mechanic will be able through a few other tests, be able to determine if it is blown.AnswerAlso, you can use a test kit the has chemicals which react to the presence of combustion byproducts in the cooling system. (Blue liquid turns yellow) Also, if you can smell the antifreeze "sweet" smell at back of the car when running, its a pretty good chance. If the steaming is accompanied by a miss or "dead" feeling cylinder, then that is a good sign too. High mileage would make me change head gaskets if I had any doubt at all.
....................The "test kit" referred to above is called a block test kit. It has a colored liquid that'll change color when it comes into contact with Exhaust fumes. You open the radiator cap and pump the tester with it stuck against the radiator inlet. But the best way to check is by compression testing the cylinders (through spark plug holes) with the cylinder being tested at TDC (Top dead center). Make sure the crankshaft pulley doesn't move when you fill the cylinder with air. If you have a bad head gasket, usually there will be 2 or more low readings right next to each other.
You need to support the engine when removing any mounts. The mounts bolt to the engine, and bolt to the unibody of the car. You can find the locations of all of the engine mounts by hunting around the engine bay or by picking up a Chiltons and Haynes manual.
Before you start this job: 1. Inspect the upper and lower torque struts that hold the motor on the passenger side. Order them ahead of time if you see they are damaged. Make sure the local parts store has them in stock if you are not sure of their integrity. You can tell if they are bad when you remove them; they just fall apart or you can see the split neoprene. 2. Inspect your accessory belts and the serpentine tensioner pulley prior to beginning the work. Order the belts (If you have over 75,000 miles on the vehicle, you will need the new accessory belts.) or know where you can purchase them locally. 3. Make sure you can get a new timing belt tensioner unit locally at your Mopar Dealer. If you have a mechanical timing belt tensioner, you are warned by a Dodge technical bulletin to replace it with a hydraulic unit. 4. Order a water pump and replace it while replacing the timing belt. 5. Of course, purchase a timing belt, lol...
First, it was necessary to remove the passenger side tire and the splash guard behind the tire in the wheel well. The next items to remove were the accessories belts (ac, alternator, etc.) which included the serpentine belt. The crankshaft damper had to be removed with a three-arm puller tool and a small insert that protects the crankshaft threads.
Remove the power steering pump by just setting it off to the side after removing the bolts. You don't have to undo the hoses; just lay it over to the side.
Using a floor jack, you hold the engine in place while you remove the lower torque arms. Inspect the upper and lower torque arms carefully as mine needed replaced. I was very lucky that a local parts store had the lower torque arm at their warehouse; I ordered the upper torque arm as I could easily see it was broken. I would at least inspect these torque arms carefully for broken neoprene prior to beginning the timing belt change; the engine could have fallen off the lower torque arm if I had hit a huge bump while driving. When I took the upper torque arm loose, the engine shifted on the floor jack and the lower torque arm neoprene completely separated, allowing the engine to shift off the arm. The lower torque arm is about 2' long and made of aluminum with neoprene inserts for the engine to ride more smoothly on when hitting bumps. You must also remove the upper torque arm on the engine passenger side about 12" in length; that was also broken on my car and had to be replaced. The torque arms were about $112 for both.
Next, you must remove the serpentine tensioner plate which has three bolts; I think. This was a totally unexpected cost for my timing belt replacement when I tried to purchase only the plastic tensioner pulley and was informed that the item was not a replacement part; you had to go to Dodge and purchase an entire plate (with a redesigned "hydraulic" tensioner for the serpentine belt tensioner). I went to a local salvage yard and obtained a fairly new tensioner pulley for about $3; the old plastic pulley was completely worn away. A new serpentine tensioner plate with the integral tensioner was $429 at Dodge; I was very happy that I found the replacement pulley for $3 at the local salvage yard saving about $426.
You can now remove the front timing cover. Make sure to align the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks before removing the timing belt. The camshaft pulley has a mark that needs to align with the mark on the head above the pulley. The crankshaft sprocket should line up at the same time with its mark at the top of the oil pump assembly. If you accidentally move the camshaft in some manner, after you remove the timing belt, you can damage the pistons or valves.
Next, to loosen the old timing belt, you need to look at the tensioner. Insert an 8 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the front of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the pulley counterclockwise until it contacts the stop. While holding tensioner pulley against stop, insert a 1/8" or 3 mm diameter pin or Allen wrench through the hole located to the left of the hex opening. While pushing pin into hole, allow the tensioner pulley to rotate back. Almost immediately, the pin should engage the locking hole to prevent further movement of the pulley. I was totally surprised by what happened when I tried to purchase a new timing belt tensioner pulley as my pulley was worn quite badly. I received the wrong part to replace the tensioner pulley three times at three different parts stores. It took about an hour to discover that there was a problem with the old "mechanical" timing belt tensioners. It is not just recommended that you change the tensioner; you must replace the timing belt tensioner plate and all if you have the older mechanical tensioner. This is a technical bulletin from Mopar that says there have been several "explosions" of the mechanical units with engine replacements needed; the tensioner actually blew a hole in the engine block. Of course, this is not a "free replacement" due to a manufacturing problem; you must purchase this item. Some of the latter models of the 2000 Neon have had the hydraulic units installed and all you need to purchase is the tensioner pulley which costs about $30. You can tell if you have the mechanical one when you actually get into and remove the timing belt; the mechanical unit has four pronounced legs, while the hydraulic unit is more of a plate (even though the holes align for both units). You must replace the back timing belt cover with a new tensioner installation (and it comes with the kit). Mine, of course, was the earlier model and required a complete plate, hydraulic unit and tensioner pulley replacement. And, of course, it was a dealer item only with a cost of $469. I had no choice but to drive (a borrowed auto) about 100 miles to a dealer that had one in stock. Before you begin your job of timing belt replacement, find out if you own an earlier 2000 and also locate a dealer with the unit in stock. You honestly should install the hydraulic unit as the technical bulletin explains the damage from an "explosion".
While you are in there, you should replace the water pump. If you read all the bulletins and people's posts about this item going bad just after they finished the timing belt, you really should just purchase the water pump and make sure it has the seal in the kit (Mine did not include the water pump seal.). The water pump was only $40. If you have to replace it, you see all the trouble you must go through again to get it out of the timing belt area. The water pump is driven by the timing belt.
The oil pump is also driven by the timing belt; however, there are not many failures of the oil pumps.
Now you may start to put the timing belt into place. If you have gotten the timing just a tiny bit off, you can follow the procedure as below. It is hard to explain in words only without pictures; however, I will try to do so. You can email me with further questions and I can send you drawings or pictures that are more explicit.
Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing, then back off to 3 notches before TDC, that is clockwise three teeth. Use a large wrench and the crankshaft nut to carefully adjust the timing. This is to allow for belt installation later.
Set camshaft to TDC by aligning mark on sprocket with the arrow on the rear of timing belt cover.
Move crankshaft to 1/2 mark before TDC for belt installation.
Install timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket and then around the camshaft sprocket.
Move crankshaft sprocket to TDC to take up belt slack.
Remove the pin or 1/8" or 3 mm Allen wrench from belt tensioner.
Rotate crankshaft 2 revolutions and check the alignment of the timing marks.
Install front timing belt cover. Install engine mount bracket. Install right engine mount to engine mount bracket through bolt. Remove jack from under engine. Install upper torque strut. Install power steering pump assembly. Raise vehicle and install lower torque strut. Install crankshaft damper using M12-1.75 x 150 mm bolt, washer, thrust bearing and nut from Special Tool 6792. Install crankshaft damper bolt and tighten to 142 Nm (100 ft. lbs.). Install accessory drive belts. Install right inner splash shield.
Lower vehicle and perform camshaft and crankshaft timing relearn procedure as follows: Connect the DRB scan tool to the data link (diagnostic) connector. This connector is located in the passenger compartment; at the lower edge of instrument panel; near the steering column. Turn the ignition switch on and access the "miscellaneous" screen. Select "re-learn cam/crank" option and follow directions on DRB screen.
It is not a fun job unless you enjoy some very hard work and have a few specialized tools. The scan tool was purchased at Sears (I hope I can say a specific name. You can purchase the scan tool at a parts store or off the web as well.). The special tool is a three-arm puller. The other special tool is to protect the crankshaft threads. !!!
This how-to is not specific to the 1998 Plymouth Breeze, however it covers all the steps, and saves me a lot of typing. Important info from the manufaturers manuel that is specific for the Breeze: Tensioner Pully torque = 20ft. lbs. Tensioner Retaining Bolts torque = 23ft. lbs. DO NOT TURN CRAKSHAFT OR CAMSHAFT WITH TIMING BELT REMOVED. This is NOT (see gates.com http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id=3598) an INTERFERENCE engine. When I changed mine, I purchased the Dayco Timing Belt Component Kit (belt tensioner) which came with how-to instructions with illistrations for changing the belt. What you will need: 1. Combination Wrenches 2. A Socket Set 3. Torque Wrench 4. A Harmonic Balancer Puller 5. A Three-jaw Gear Puller 6. Screwdrivers 7. Timing Belt Cover Gasket Set 8. New Timing Belt 9. Jack 10. Jack stands Before You Start: * Follow these instructions carefully. Read and be sure you understand them before you begin. * Gather together all of your tools and supplies before you begin. * Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don't have to hurry. * Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions pertaining to your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual. * Safety is important whenever you're working around machinery. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials. * Don't substitute tools unless you're sure you won't compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle. * Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass. Removal: 1. Disconnecting the negative battery cable. Insure you have your radio security code (if equipped) and record any preset radio stations and the time on a piece of paper to allow for quick resetting once repairs are made.) 2. Remove the distributor cap. 3. Using a wrench on the crankshaft bolt rotate the engine until the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the 0� mark on the timing scale. 4. Verify the distributor rotor is aligned with the index mark on the distributor housing indicating the rotor is in position to fire the number one cylinder. If not, rotate the engine another full turn. 5. Remove any components or accessory drive belts that interfere with removing the timing belt cover. This varies by model; consult your service manual to determine which parts need to be removed from your vehicle. 6. Remove the bolts or screws holding the timing cover in place, and lift the cover off the engine. Some engines have a two-piece timing cover. 7. Check for proper alignment of the crank and camshaft timing marks. NOTE: Many engines have a dot or index line on the pulleys or sprockets that must be lined up with corresponding marks on the block, cylinder head, or accessory shaft. On some engines, the index mark on the camshaft sprocket aligns with the parting line of the first camshaft-bearing tower. This is very important if you're replacing a timing belt that has broken. Consult your service manual for the correct alignment procedure for your vehicle and correct any misalignment before installing the new timing belt. CAUTION: Check the area around the belt for signs of oil or other fluid leakage at seals, cam cover and oil pan. Leaks must be repaired before the new belt is installed. 8. Loosen the timing belt tensioner. NOTE: Some vehicles may require a special tool to reach tensioner mounting bolts hidden by components such as motor mounts. Some engines require a special tool to release a spring-loaded timing belt tensioner. However, most engines have a spring-loaded tensioner that can be operated using common tools in the following manner. 9. Loosen the mounting bolt(s) holding the belt tensioner but do not remove it. 10. Pry the tensioner away from the belt and then retighten the mounting bolt(s)to hold the tensioner in the loose position. 11. Examine the tensioner pulley for damage such as dents or cracks. 12. Spin the tensioner pulley and listen for a rattle or humming noise that would indicate loose or worn bearings. Uneven wear at the rear of the old timing belt could indicate a misalignment between the tension pulley and timing belt due to worn bearings. If any indications of damage or worn bearings are found, replace the tensioner pulley. 13. With the tension on the timing belt relieved, the belt should slide easily off the sprockets. Timing belts that have been used for a long time may stick in the pulley grooves and require some gentle prying with a screwdriver to release. Installation: Caution: Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshaft after removing the timing belt unless it's necessary to correct a timing mark misalignment. This could cause engine damage on an "interference" design engine. 1. Compare the old and new timing belts. Compare the shape of the belt teeth, the spacing between the teeth, and the width of the belt. 2. While the belt is off, check the cam and crankshaft sprockets for wear or damage. Replace them if any damage is found. 3. Slide the new timing belt into position on the sprockets. CAUTION: Do not force a new timing belt over the sprockets. If the belt won't slide easily check to make sure the belt tensioner is fully released. Timing belts are strong in their correctly installed position only. Do not bend or twist them into any configuration other than the correct one. 4. Loosen the bolt(s) holding the timing belt tensioner and allow it to contact the belt. 5. Proper timing belt tension is essential. Adjust the timing belt to the correct tension, following the procedures for your specific vehicle as outlined in your service manual. 6. After the belt tension is properly adjusted, verify the timing marks on the cam, crank, and accessory sprockets are still in alignment. 7. With a wrench on the crankshaft pulley, turn the engine over by hand at least two complete revolutions in its normal direction of travel returning to the 0� mark. This will help seat the new belt into place on the sprockets. On "interference" engines, it will also allow you to feel for any hard resistance that may indicate pistons and valves coming into contact. 8. Verify the position of all timing marks. 9. Reinstall the timing covers and tighten the attaching bolts or screws securely. 10. Reinstall the components and drive belts that were removed to gain access to the timing cover. 11. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 12. Start the engine and verify proper operation.
Vibration at idle, especially with automatic transmission, is usually caused by engine idling to slow. Now, since there is no idle adjustment screw anymore you need to have the vehicle checked at your Toyota Dealer. Some vibration, even to that level is normal. IF IT HAPPENS IN THE PROCESS OF STOPPING, WHILE BRAKING, YOUR BRAKE ROTORS ARE LIKELY OUT OF ROUND.
after you fix the problem,take your reciept to autozone,they probably can help you with that.Answerunplug the battery or put the fuse PCM i think.
Keep it unplugged for 6 hours. Autozone cant do it for you anymore due to it being Illegal in CA at least, conflict of interest according to the Democrat controlled legislature.
Try AutoZone, but don't look under the year and model section. Select Products and How To Info on the left side menu, then pick "T" and "Timing Belt". It's not as detailed as the manuals, but helpful.
2nd answerThis was real helpful for me. Make sure you are a DIY person first of all and if that's the case then go to this website and follow these instructions.http://www.allpar.com/fix/headgasket-2.HTML. Also, Make sure to BUY the Manuel if you don't have it already. You will need all the torc specs when puting everything back to gether.
It has electronic ignition the timing is adjusted by the cam and crank sensor and regulated by the ecm. In short you can't without messing with the timing belt and since it has an interference engine (the pistons can hit the valves) I would suggest it.
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