See related links for complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel and complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to test a power window motor to determine whether the problem is in the motor/regulator or the switch/wiring.
Loosen the lug nuts counterclockwise. Next, jack up car at the jack points (there are covers below the rocker panels). Jack up car, unloosen all the lug nuts. Remove wheel, replace wheel. Tighten lug nuts until they are seated against the rim. Lower car. Tighten lug nuts crosswise. Next stop, have the lug nuts torqued down.
Use dipstick as a guide. Fill to proper level when engine off after it has settled/drained back to the pan.
Push and hold the right button.
Switch on the ignition. Release the right button. Pull on the left button. Push the right button. Pull the left button.
(------ is now displayed)
It is reset.
it depends how much u want to spend if u want high performance use mobile 1 but if u want the best value use castrol edge synthetic
For Audi a4 b8
2 types of oem wheel i know are:
1) 8jx18 et47 5x112 central bore 66.6 with 245/40/R18 tyres
offset (et) is 47
2) 7jx16 et39 5x112 central bore 66.6 with 205/60/R16 tyres
offset (et) is 39
It will say BRAKE on USA cars depending on the year. Or, it will flash an icon of a brake drum.
If it's a MKIV Golf.
* Turn on ignition.
* Hold down Right trip button and continue to do so whilst turning off ignition.
* Still with Right trip button held down turn ignition back on.
* Release Right trip button.
* With ignition still on turn Left trip button to the Right and release.
* Turn off ignition.
Turn on radio - the word SAFE will appear in the display. Press th P.SCAN and RBDS buttons simultaneously and hold them down until "1000" lights up in the display.Release buttons.Do not, under no circumtances, continue holding them down or press them once again. This will cause the radio to consider the number 1000 to be the input code.Use station buttons 1,2,3,and 4 to enter the code number on your Radio Card. Use the button 1 to enter the first number 2 for the second number 3 for the third number and 4 for the last number.Once you have entered the code and it shows on the display,press the P.SCAN and RBDS buttons down again simultaneously and hold them down until the word SAFE appears in the display.Release buttons. Soon afterwards a frequency will be displayed.
For a 1998 Audi Quattro with a Delta radio, the button combination is DX and FM1/2.
Yes. You have to use the lowest profile tire and wheel available currently. I believe at this time you would want to go with a 22" wheel with a width of 8-8.5", and use a tire sized 245/30-22. The only company, to my knowledge, that has a tire available in this size is Pirelli. Good luck.
well that's not the only thing you can do cause I'm from FL and I seen all the way up to 26"s,you may want to thing about getting a lift on your car mainly upgrading your springs a 2" lift would be just right I have a 99 merc on 24"s deep dish,only got it lifted about 3.5" front 3" rear with no scrub no rub
The antennas for that model of car are built into the window glass. If you are having problems with reception you might need a new amplifier or switch box. Both items are dealer only items.
Pop trunk. pull carpeted panel away from interior of trunk to access the tail light housing. black plastic carrier has spring tab press this and remove carrier to access bulbs. Change bulb and replace carrier. reverse rest of steps.
This should be fairly easy to do. First fill the coolant to the max mark on the tank. Then see if it almost automatically loses some coolant (it might almost burp its self) if it doesn't squeeze the big top tube right next to the coolant tank this will send some air back into the tank. Second uncover the bleeder valve for the system which should be hidden under a plastic cover near the windshield at the back of the engine compartment (taking off the cover is very easy). Look on the driverside near where the coolant tubes enter the heater, there should be a screw valve on the top tube. Third with the coolant tank cap off start the car, get it running hot, but watch the coolant level to make sure it does not over flow. Once it start to get hot, unscrew the bleeder valve and wait until it has a good flow of coolant coming out of it. This should bleed the system. Watch the coolant level, and refill as needed.
I Think its a main dealer job only as they use a guided function with the Audi VAS computer to reset the service display
Fuse # / Description / Amps 1 / Heated washer jets / 5 2 / Turn signals flasher unit / 10 3 / Headlight washer, illumination of glove compartment, engine compartment, climate control, automatic transmission, instrument cluster / 5 4 / License plate light / 5 5 / Instrument cluster, seat heating, test connection for cruise control, bulb monitor for auto-check control, Automatic transmission display, switch lighting, mirror switches and actuators, airbag warning light, outside temperature indicator, Climate control / 10 6 / Central locking system / 5 7 / Anti-lock brake system / 10 8 / Vacant 9 / Mirror heating / 10 10 / Vacant 11 / Cruise control (automatic transmission) / 5 12 / On board diagnostic system / 10 13 / Brake lights / 10 14 / Interior lights, reading lights, anti-theft alarm system, vanity mirror / 10 15 / Instrument cluster, power windows, climate control, automatic transmission / 10 16 / Anti-lock brake system, Anti-Slip-Regulation / 5 17 / Heated door locks / 10 18 / High beam right / 10 19 / High beam left / 10 20 / Low beam right / 15 21 / Low beam left / 15 22 / Tail and side marker right / 5 23 / Tail and side marker left / 5 24 / Wiper and washer system / 25 25 / Blower for heating, climate control / 30 26 / Rear window defogger, mirror heating / 30 27 / Rear window wiper / 15 28 / Fuel pump / 15 29 / Engine timing / 20 30 / Sun roof / 20 31 / Tail lights, cruise control, automatic transmission / 15 32 / Engine timing / 20 33 / Cigarette lighter / 15 34 / Engine timing / 15 35 / Trailer receptacle / 30 36 / Fog lights / 15 37 / Radio / 20 38 / Luggage compartment light, central locking system / 15 39 / Emergency flasher / 15 40 / Horn / 25 41 / Anti-lock brake system / 25 42 / Vacant 43 / Vacant 44 / Seat heating / 30
Its not the rims, its the outside diameter of the tyre. The OD of a standard 16in is quite close to if not the same as the OD of a lo-pro on a 18in.
The Audi a4 water pump is not that hard of a job for an experienced technician. At my shop we charge about 6 hours labor for the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley. -- All these things should be replaced at the time of the water pump. Only one special tool is required; it is a bar used to hold the cams in time while the belt is off. If you are not an experienced tech, I would not recogmend trying to perform the job. One small mistake and you could end up with bent valves, assuming you have the 30v model. .
Low oil pressure on an Audi A4 is typically caused by oil sludge in 1.8 turbocharged engines. There was a recall and extended warranty service notice issued by Audi for all 1.8T engines (can't recall what model years though).
Do not drive your car, take it immediately to the nearest Audi dealer and make sure that they check the oil pan. If your car is found to have a sludge or deposit problem, Audi will pay the cost of repair or at least a portion of it.
I found this problem on my 2002 A4 1.8T Avant, which required draining and replacement of all engine oil and upgrading the oil pickup screen, filter and oil pan to reduce future sludge. Frequent oil changes would be advisable if your car is found to have this problem.
For 2007 A4 turbo
Do not remove entire headlight housing, that would be a waste of your time. (see below for 2001-2005 removal which is different)
1.To give yourself some room to work, remove plastic cover with green cap sticking through it. Its located just behind the headlight housing. Pull away from vehicle and up, it just slides off.
1a. If you are working on passenger side, remove air intake instead.
2. Un-clip and remove plastic cover from back of housing for the bulb you wish to replace.
3. Remove electrical connection and clip from back of bulb. Connector slides straight back, clip moves in a hook shape.
4. Replace bulb (H7). Do not touch the glass, finger oil + halogen = premature failure. Clean with rubbing alcohol if necessary.
5. Replace covers in reverse order.AnswerFor an Audi A4 year 2001-2005:
There are 4 torx screws that hold the head light unit in place, you need to remove the complete unit to gain access to the bulbs by using a T-27 torx head screwdriver.
1. you will have to mask off the bumper under the head light first, this will stop you damaging the paintwork.
2. you now have to pull off the electrical connector block this is done by squeezing the small bridge on the side of the block (this is not always necessary to do as you may be able to have a person hold it for you when you remove the headlight assembly).
3. remove the top 2 torx screws completely, then slacking off the bottom 2 screws but don't remove them. You will need a T-27 torx screwdriver at least 8" long to reach the bottom screw(s) to have enough handle to turn.
4. now slowly pull the head light unit out being careful not to damage the paintwork.
5. lay the unit on a towel to stop it from damaging whilst you un-clip the back cover, these bulbs are H7 55 watt.
6. replace bulb and reinstall same as removal. job done.
Words of wisdom: While you have the housing out spend the few extra bucks and replace the other bulbs (blinker and low beam light) as they will soon need to be replaced as well.AnswerThe two bolts at the rear can be difficult to locate first time. Looking at the nearside headlight the left hand side one is level with the base of the headlight about halfway along its side. The right hand side bolt is hidden below the cables that come out of the inner wing and run directly behind the lamp cover. You'll need to cut the clip holding the the wires in place to gain access. Matchstick fingers are also handy! Use a LONG T-27 torx screwdriver... do not attempt without one!! Answer for 2005 A4Generally follow the directions for 2001-2005 above, but I found these differences on my 2005 A4 cabriolet (convertible). Found this on the passenger side headlamp only; didn't try the driver side, yet!
1. There are just 3 torx screws (not 4) holding the passenger side headlamp in place, 2 on top and only 1 on bottom.
2. I did not need to pull off the electrical connector block.
3. I did need to remove the plastic intake vent, exactly as described in step #2 below for the 2003 A4, but you don't need to remove the third vent piece on the left. You will find the 1 bottom torx screw beneath the accordion connector piece. Loosen it, but do not unscrew it completely.
4. Again, there is no 4th torx screw (2nd bottom torx screw) beneath the left piece of the vent as described in step 4 for the 2003 A4 below. Continue with steps # 4, 5, 6 for the 2001 - 2005 above.Answer for 2003 A4This info is for replacing the left (as you look at front of car from outside) headlight bulbs (and other bulbs as well):
1. Open the hood, the 2 upper torx (T-27) screws for headlight assembly are easy to spot. Remove those screws. I was able to use an Allen key of appropriate size as I didn't have the right torx tool.
2. To get to the lower screws, you need to remove the plastic intake vent. There are two Philips head screws along on the right from the torx ones you just removed, remove those. The vent is in 3 pieces, 2 rigid and one accordion-like connector between them. I could not figure out how to remove the piece on the left, but the one that was attached by the screws and the accordion piece were easy to get out.
3. Under the right vent piece you removed is the 3rd torx screw, lower down. You only need to loosen this, not remove it, as mentioned above.You need a LONG torx T-27 screwdriver at least 8" long to do this properly. I would recommend lubricating all the screws with WD-40 or equivalent prior to removing all screws.
4. This is the hard part. Since I couldn't remove the left piece of the vent, and it obscures the last lower screw, I had to attach my Allen key with tape to a long handled flat blade screwdriver, such that the elbow of the Allen key was leveraged against the blade to provide resistance against the counter-clockwise twist needed to loosen the screw. Fortunately the screw wasn't really tight so it loosened without breaking the tape.( It might work, but I would not recommend doing this. Instead go to the auto parts or hardware store and get a T-27 torx screwdriver (5$-10$) as long as possible. If you strip the screw you are out of luck big time for ever trying to remove it!)
5. Once the last 2 screws are loose the assembly comes mostly out (enough to get at the bulb cages), without disconnecting any wires. The rest is pretty easy and obvious - you pull out the wire that goes into the bulb after opening the cage door, and there are sprung clips that you squeeze to unhinge, then the bulb comes right out. I used H7 55W which is what the auto parts store found in the book for my model and year.
6. Everything goes back in reverse, with strategic nudging. I had to retape the Allen key to the screwdriver to get resistance for tightening, but other than that it was straightforward. Now I hope the screwdriver I dropped into the engine compartment comes out next time I drive it... (Exactly why you do not want to do it this way... spend the 5$ and buy a T-27 Torx Screwdriver!).
5w-40 full synthetic is the recommendation on their web site. They do say if not avail. and depending on season, 5w-30 or 0-40w is ok.
undo the couple hex heads that hold the head light assembly in and pull it out then disconect the wiring (quick disconects) then open the plastic compartment and theres a wire that holds the bulb down undo that and pull the bulb out its the same for high and low then re-assemble
The complete headlamp unit has to come out. It is held in by about 6 or 7 hex headed screws. You need a long handled tool for this, but they are pretty standard these days. Once these are removed the unit comes forward and allows access to the bulb. Replacement is a reversal of the process.
take out headlight theres 2 hex bolts at the top f the unit which u need to take right out and 2 hex bolts at the back of the unit which are on a slide so only have to be slackend 5 minute job
I have a 2002 A4 Quatro. I removed the two star bolts located at the top of the unit then loosened the other two star bolts located at the back. The headlight assembly does not have to come all the way out in order to replace the turn signal. Pull it out far enough so you can loosen turn signal bulb assembly. I had to remove the plastic covers on top of the engine compartment to get to the two bolts in the back. Snamps right back in though.
On my 2002 A4 Quattro, there are two screws on top of the headlight assembly(obvious) and two behind it (not so obvious). And they're #T30 Torx, not hex (allen). All four screws are under the hood. On the passenger side, to get to the two screws behind the light assembly, you must first remove the plastic air duct (3 pieces) that lead from the grill to the air cleaner box; this requires removing two Phillips head screws that attach the forward-most duct piece to the grill. The 3 duct pieces just snap together. When reassembling the duct, I found it easiest to install the front one first.
The 2 things I would add are: 1) there really are only 4 screws to remove. The top two are easy. 2) The other two screws connect the bottom of the headlamp unit to the vehicle. In order to get the bottom 2 out, you'll need a screwdriver about 10 inches long to get leverage for the #T30 Torx. I'm not a mechanic either and I was able to do this in less than 10 minutes once I had what I needed. Cost: bulbs about $4; T30 Hex at Lowes for about $5.
Probably a suspension bushing. I had similar issue w/ my '96 A4 and apparently corrected it by simply applying silicone-based grease to all bushings. I assume I'll have to do this every year. I had it too, bushings in the lower rear control arms made most of the sound. Were badly smashed up so needed to be changed. Changed both lower arms as there were other bushings creaking also. No creaks anymore.
You have to just pry the mirror out. It's held in place by a tab type mount. I've gotten them out by gently prying around the mirror. It'll just pop out.
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