there could be a couple answers. first have the valves checked they may need to be tighten down if that is not the issue you may have an engine getting ready to blow

hi iam 120 year old student and i would like to know what GDP means.

I'm sure there are a few different answers, to your question, depending on that persons point of view. Some might say, "Why" while others might say, "Why Not" So it depends on your point of view. I have always applied a simple statement, to things like your question, and you will find out, that it pretty much, "cuts to the chase" The statement: "IS THE JUICE, WORTH THE SQUEEZE" It looks like your only commonality here, is Toyota. If your in a state, that has any kind of advanced emissions testing required for registration, you might run into a problem with them, as they are not big fans of "modified vehicles" meaning anything that was not installed at the factory. If you have a wheel barrow full of cash, and no home for it, this sounds like the project to dump it into. This reminds me of a question we had in engineering class, "Can A Brick Fly" The answer is "Yes" "If you put a big enough motor on it" So, "yes" you can put an 89 22r motor in a 86 turbo 4 runner, if you have enough money, and experience with cars in general, with some fabrication experience thrown in for good measure. Don't forget to have a few friends over when your doing this, that way you'll have a few different ideas on how to do it, and to make it enjoyable, have a lot of beer on hand, that way you have an excuse the next day, when someone says, "WHAT HAPPENED"

To reset the oil life monitor in most (but not all) late model GM vehicles without a DIC:

1: Get in the car and close the door.

2: Depress and hold the brake pedal. You don't have to press it hard.

3: In sert the key into the ignition. If it's already in and turned on, shut it off.

4: Turn the key to the 'run' (but not crank) position, then fully depress and release the accelerator pedal three times within five seconds.

5: Turn the key to the 'off' position.

Some vehicles will notify you with a chime or, flashing light. Others may display the word reset. Some do not have any indication and the reset procedure should be done three times to be sure.

Fixed expenses are those expenses which don't have any relation with actual production volume, examples are building rent, administration staff salaries, administration expenses etc

You need to use premium fuel, the fuel u are using can cause predetonation, and cause knock. Which will ruin your engine

Right now head-up displays are very expensive and found in niche specialty stores (if you are talking about this technology as it relates to gaming and consumer electronics). Most of us feel that now that gen 4 technology involving lasers is here, the price will begin to come down significantly. Head-up displays may be the next big thing - the way the wii jumped into the market with motion gaming.

First of all, I just hope you upgraded the intake the exhaust and the transmission because if not than say ADIOS to your engine and trany especialy. But anyway you can find out by how much boost your putting out ether you purchase a little computer and software for it and hook it up to your lap top(that is if you know as what you are doing) or go the easy way and put the car on the dyno and that will tell you absolutely everything about your car and the specs. You do not need to upgrade the transmission if you only swapped to a 3.4, which would be the first recommended lower size supercharger pulley. But you do need to at the very least have some exhaust mods (especially a U-bend delete), a CAI, and it helps to run a colder t-stat, and a more dialed in PCM, such as a DHP. To determine your boost you can hook up a powertuner (generally around $400) or have it dyno'd. You will get approximately 10 HP per .1 drop in pulley diameter and yes if you dont have supporting mods you will damage your engine if you go too far. Check out the following webiste for a thorough discussion on pulley size and suporting mods. http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=2867792&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1 Hope this helps. "G"

www.autozone.com Repair- component location.

There are several things to check when having this difficulty. Check for power steering fluid level (it may be low). Check that the fan belt is turning the power steering pump. Beyond this you may wish to seek the advice of a professional. Hope this helps. "G"

Press both buttons on the "driver information center" at the same time. That should reset it for you.

Answer Replace it. Just replaced mine as it was always on "Full" or above. Seems to be OK now. Aussie Bill.

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Fair enough but I'd suggest seeing if the fault is elsewhere first, such as a poor electrical connection on the supply or earth side of the sender or gauge. If these are OK... establish if it is the sender on the tank, or the gauge itself, that has failed.

In order to answer your question you need to fully understand what "Knock Retard" is and what effect this has on your engine. Check out the following website about "Knock Reduction" and what to do about it. http://www.oqcgp.com/forum/kb.php?mode=article&k=31 Hope this helps. "G"

sounds pretty straight-forward from this writeup: http://www.grandprixforums.net/cv_shaft_replacement.php

hazard flasher drivers side under dash above kick panel mounted in bottom of convenience panel turn signal under dash drivers side lefthand side of the steering column mounted on a support bracket

Defective cooling fan, blown fuse, thermal relay. Turn on A/C, if fan is not working check fan, relay, and fuse. It could also be a bad radiator cap or stuck thermostat, it is realtivly easy/cheap to change the thermostat and get a new rad cap (preferably dealer). When you change the thermostat look into the radiator to see if the passages are clear, if not have the radiator power flushed or replaced. The orange Dex cool fluid can gum up after a while expecially if it was mixed with green coolant. Hope this helps. "G"

I believe it is related to 'demi-pile,' a French term for a ballet dance move. The latter probably a 'short' version of the grand-pile.

it is black and right be side the throttle body with a 4 wire plug in the top of it with a metal bracked surrounding it

Auxiliary power , fuse 3 under hood fusebox

First I would make sure that you have enough gas. I know this would be obvious, but you never know. If that doesn't help, then the following could be your problem:

1. Loose or faulty electrical connection at the coil pack or alternator

2. Insufficient fuel reaching the fuel injectors - could be a fuel injection problem.

3. Check your spark plugs and wires.

4. Vacuum leak at the gasket betwen the intake manifold and throttle body.

-gz1 I had a spare key made for my car and had the same problem with it. If you had a spare key made it doesnt have the computer chip built in so the car rejects it. 01GPGTX

this is a GT with floor shift and 3800 engine