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1st. If you intend to do any work on this car at all you need tools and a good repair manual. Spend the $20.00 bucks for a manual at autozone and read read read.

There are several things to consider

Rotors need replaced?...(can be turned?)Pads?Fluid and what type?Proportioning valve problems?Spongy brakes? need new rubber lines?Vac boost working correctly?Bad calipers need rebuild?leaking fluid?bad leaking brake master cylinder?

If this work was completed by a pro could cost well over $500.00The Pro has the book that's the only dif.Get the book and read, buy the tools you need and save yourself 200.00-300.00 bucks?

It is of my opinion never buy autozone brakes get NAPA's best Pay the extra money and stop when you need it.

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Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from radiator Follow the upper radiator hose to engine compartment - should end at thermostat housing Remove 2 mounting bolts Remove housing Clean both surfaces Replace gasket Re-Install housing Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent "airlock" Start engine Watch for leaks Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on Check coolant level

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If it's anything like my 92 Sunbird, (and they do have the same inherent problems), they are leaky cars (water wise) and it's probably wiring. There's a grounding problem it sounds like. I used to have a similar problem in my 92 when I used the cigarette lighter, it would blow the taillight fuse everytime. Replaced the cigarette lighter and problem went away. See, the cigarette lighter was rusted and the ground was faulty, so it would ground to the nearest fuse (which was taillight fuse) overload it, and blow the taillight fuse. Your parking lights are probably not grounded properly and it is doing the same thing my cigarette lighter was. Is it just me or are these cars just like the old Ford Tempo's and Dodge K cars, very reliable for the most part, but very leaky?!

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The motor could be bad. Takeit to a garage. I have a 92 sunbird convertable I had the same problem Its the relay switch located in the trunk on the left side of the pump mounted to the back wall of the trunk with one screw Unfortunatly it is a very hard junkyard part to find and you have to buy a new one from a dealer and it costs about $120.00 or so (very high i thought for such a little part) so I f your ready here is a simple easy and cheap way to fix it. First pull the conector plug fromp the pump shold be two thick wires orange and brown i think put a wire in each one and run it to a good baterry one on ethe positive and one on the negative ( don't matter which one it works both ways one way makes it go up then switch wires other way goes down that will tell you if its the motoe or not. Then if the motoe works then go and get a high output 3 way switch and wire it your self deleting the relay and mount it in you dash then you have a new switch and you top should work good luck1

cheak all the fuses. there should be on and it proubley blew

The electric motor is bad.

I had the same problem and it was the top cylinder that are finish i replace the top cylinder and the problem was solved. It depend where you live it could be a $300. to a$500 dolars fix. i got the cylinder from the convertable guy on the internet

Have a nice day gerrybelca@yahoo.com

I thought it was a major issue, too. One day I was talking to a friend with the engine running. I pressed the rocker switch and the top started to move. I found it wouldn't work with the ignition shut off yet the relay clicked...try it with the key in the "on" position.

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most likely you have a r12 cooling system. You will first have to visit a certified AC mechanic to have the r12 drained from your system and since you have to do that then you might as well have them do the r134 conversion at the same time, it won't add that much more to the cost.

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Procedure

Important When required, refer to the appropriate year service manuals when performing the following procedures.

Remove camshaft from cylinder head. Pressure test cooling system.

While monitoring the pressure gauge for air pressure drop, inspect all hose connections and visible joints for engine coolant leaks. Inspect the camshaft journals and surrounding areas using a bright light, to help locate hairline cracks. (Refer to illustrations for examples of area where cracks may appear.)

Important Air pressure may drop slowly, depending on the severity of the crack(s).

If a crack is detected in one or more of the areas shown, cylinder head assembly must be replaced. If no crack is detected, proceed to step 5. Remove cylinder head and gasket. Proceed to step 6 and flush engine block and cooling system before installing new cylinder head and new cylinder head gasket.

Important Engine block, radiator and heater core must be flushed before installing new cylinder head and new cylinder head gasket.

If pressure bleeds down, but no leaks or cracks are detected, remove cylinder head assembly and inspect the cylinder head gasket for damage between the oil and engine coolant passages. If cylinder head gasket is damaged, remove and discard cylinder head gasket, and proceed to step 6.

Important Engine block, radiator and heater core must be flushed before installing cylinder head and new cylinder head gasket.

If cylinder head gasket is not damaged, inspect engine blocks for cracks in the oil and engine coolant passages in the cylinder liner area. If cracks are detected, replace engine block. Leave upper radiator hose connected to the radiator. Remove and discard lower radiator hose. Open radiator drain plug. Insert a hose in the upper radiator hose and flush radiator with clean water until clean water flows from the lower radiator hose connection. Remove and discard upper radiator hose. Remove water inlet housing and thermostat and discard thermostat. Remove engine cooling system drain plug, located at the right front of the engine block below the thermostat. Remove and discard water pump. Place shop rags in the exposed cylinder bores. Using a hose, fill the exposed water jacket surrounding the cylinders with clean water until clean water comes out of the thermostat location. Remove shop rags from cylinder head bores and apply a liberal amount of 5W - 30 engine oil to the cylinder liners to help prevent corrosion.

Important Do not install thermostat at this time.

Install water inlet housing to engine. Install engine cooling system drain plug. Install new water pump. Leave inlet heater hose connected to heater core. Remove and discard outlet heater hose. Insert hose into inlet heater hose and flush with clean water until clean water comes out of heater core outlet. Remove and discard inlet heater core hose. Remove and discard coolant recovery hose. Remove coolant recovery reservoir and flush thoroughly with clean water. Install remanufactured or previously removed cylinder head and new cylinder head gasket. Install new radiator, heater and coolant recovery hoses. Change engine oil engine oil filter.

Prepare a mixture of Calgon � or equivalent (automatic dishwater detergent), and water at the rate of 59 milliliters (two ounces) (dry measure) to 3.8 Liters (1 gallon) of water. The cooling system holds approximately 7.6 liters (two gallons) of coolant.

Fill the cooling system with the mixture. Run the engine for five minutes.

Drain the cooling system. Repeat Step 29 through 32 until all oil residue is remove from system. Fill the cooling system with clean water. Let the engine run five minutes. Drain the cooling system completely. Install new engine thermostat. Install cylinder block drain plug. Close radiator drain plug.

Important The vehicle must be level when filling with coolant.

Fill the system with coolant. 1991-1996 early vehicle equipped with "Green" Saturn non-phosphate ethylene glycol-base coolant, fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of new Saturn non-phosphate ethylene glycol-base coolant (P/N 21030365, 3.8 Liter [one gallon] container). 1996 interim and 1997 vehicles equipped with "Orange" Saturn DEX-COOL � extended-life engine coolant, fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of new Saturn DEX-COOL � extended-life engine coolant (P/N 21031164, 3.8 Liter [one gallon] container). Start engine and check for leaks. Fill the coolant recovery reservoir to the full cold line after the engine has run for two or three minutes. Install and tighten cap.

When adding DEXCOOL, Make sure it is mixed at a 50/50 ratio with distilled water. And never add any unless it is DEXCOOL or distiled water. Adding the old green takes away boil protection and returns the coolant to 2-3 year change cycle.

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right next to the emergency flasher It is a white three prong connector

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Hey Aaron==It is a pretty big job but if you feel up to tackeling it get you a shop manual on your car. It will have pictures and everything. Good luck Joe

Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

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1 3 4 2

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on the right hand side of the steering column by the column support bracket. It is tucked in behind and you need to feel for the round device.

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beside coil pack behind firewall

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dude, i just had to take mine off like 3 times, i dont really know how to do it rite, but it worked 4 me, there is a hole in the spring thingy and i put like a nail in it and it relieves a little stress on it, then pry, to get it back on, just get it mostly on, and flip the starter a few short! flips to get it back on track

The proper way to remove the tensioner is to loosen the water pump. The water pump is held down with clamping screws that do not go thru the water pump but rather beside it.If you look closely at the pump (pump off of engine) you will see that the shaft and pulley are not in the center of the pump but rather offset(eccentric) so that as as you rotate the pump in its housing the pulley will move in or out. The hole in the tensioner is used to help install it not remove it. To install the belt first loosen the water pump bolts enough so the water pump will rotate in its housing,mount the tensioner to the engine with a nail or drill bit thru it(as the previous poster noted)install the belt (making sure the marks are in alignment),remove the nail or drill bit and rotate the water pump intil the tensioner spring just reaches full compression and then tighten down thw water pump bolts. Hope this is a better explanation - Clyde

the proper whay is to push the tab down/or loosen the bolts and it comes off easy.

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i believe your relay might be acting up. i would replace it r u sure u aren't stuck on delay!!?? been there, done that!! This happened on our 94 Sunbird LE...it is indeed the relay.

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Assuming it's a 4 cylinder, it's buried way up behind the back of the block and REALLY not a lot of fun to change because you need eight inch fingers with four knuckles to reach one of the bolts.

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The only hard part is that you've got to get a big crescent wrench or pipe wrench onto the square extrusion on the belt tensioner and relieve the pressure so that you can slip the belt off (and back onto) the alternator. Once you've done that (the tensioner is one of the small pulleys on the side of the engine that the belt is wrapped around - it's very firm but WILL move with enough pressure; WATCH your knuckles!!! If you slip it can hurt like heck!)it's a simple matter of pulling the wiring plug off and undoing the bolts that hold the alternator.

There should be a belt/pulley diagram sticker on the radiator support near the front of the car that will show you the belt routing, make sure that the belt goes back on the right way around the proper pulleys! It can take a minute to make sure you've got it wound round everything the right way (and again, watch your knuckles with that tensioner!) Good luck!

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There are two heavy steel straps that support the tank. I *think* (it's been a few years since I did one) that you may have to drop the exhaust a bit to let the tank clear. The straps have one big bolt each, once those are out the tank will come down (and you'll get a face full of dirt and crap falling off the top of the tank, if you're under it). There are flexible, clamped fuel lines (pressure, return and vent, if I remember right) plus the wiring for the pump; all this has to be disconnected once the tank is lowered but before you pull the tank completely out. If you're replacing the fuel sender or pump (the only reason to pull a tank 99% of the time), CLEAN off the top of the pump assembly (or all the dirt will fall into the tank when you remove the pump) and rotate the circular retaining ring by ALTERNATELY tapping the tabs on opposing sides of it with a screwdriver and hammer until it releases the plate that has all the feed lines and wires going into it. That's actually the top of the pump/sender assembly. Remove the assembly carefully. Don't forget to inspect and/or replace the big rubber O-ring underneath when you put it back together. Getting the tank re-aligned and up into place can be a pain, especially when there's just one of you lifting, positioning and balancing the tank and trying to start the strap bolts all at the same time - be patient. Good luck!!

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My turn signal switch died on my 92 Grand Prix. Rather than attempting the repair, I took it to a shop. The steering column had to be removed to get to the switch.

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The sensor is located below the hood on the pasanger side. It it normally the second relay switch. Their is three other relay switces.

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You remove the bolts, take off the old one and bolt on the new one.

My uncle had a 1992 sunbird and in order to change the starter on that one you had to take the front axle off and drop the starter out from the bottom because of the frame and cross over bars. Not sure if 89 would be exactly the same.

My daughter had one of those front drive cars. Rather than spend a lot of time on my back, I removed the head to get at it from above. I took the head in for service and wound up with a better car.

apparently the first person has no idea about the 89 turbos, the starter is under the multi port intake under the right side near the firewall, not a good take off bolt, replace job. I TOO would like to know from the gurus out here, do you take the passenger side wheel and axel off to get to the starter? Engine only has 52K Miles. Do not wish to remove anything i do not have to. Thanks!

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don't repalce just one joint. purchase a rebuilt axle. It will be quicker and easier. Go to your local library to find a repair manual.

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Hey Le==Some of these cars have to have the engine supports removed to get to the water pump. I suggest getting a manual on your car from a parts store. It will have pictures and everything. GoodluckJoe

i recently did this repair for a friend. It was excruciating. it was all day.

There are two pulleys running in this engine, and the water pump runs on the second pully behind a case. so you have to take almost everything off to get at it. Then, the water pump is actually the belt tensioner for that pulley system. it is excentric (sp?) so when you turn it in place, it tightens the belt. then you secure it back with three bolts. The belt system in question connects the drive shaft with the cam shaft, So you do have to be Very Careful with the belt/ pulley alignment.i marked the pulleys very very carefully so i could get everything lined up again.

This was a challenging repair. The one thing i did was had my GM Dealer parts person print the screen showing the breakdown of all the parts in that location so i had a reference point. Good luck

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I would HIGHLY recommend you get a manual (Haynes, Chilton, etc.) with a diagram, I don't think you could do it (read: You wouldn't WANT to try to do it) properly by a written description alone. Like all timing, of course, it has to be *exactly* right, you can't be out a notch or two or your car will run terrible (if it runs at all) and you'll be pulling the belt and retiming it all again.

The top (cam)gear has dot on one the teeth on the front of the gear which is aligned with a "v" notch on the rear part of the timing belt cover. The lower gear on the crankshaft should also have mark on one of the teeth that aligns with a mark on the rear cover or you could install the crank pulley and use the timing pointer as a reference. It will be necessary to buy a new o-ring for the water pump(or preferably a new pump) as this is used to adjust the tension applied to the timing belt. You should adjust the tension on the belt until the spring loaded tensioner just reaches full compression then rotate the engine 2 full revolutions by hand and verify that the marks are still in alignment. - Clyde