Its simple, You will need ramps to lift the car off the ground so you can work under the right passenger tire area... MAKE SURE UR EMERGENCY BRAKE IS ENGAGED.. The starter is held onto the engine from 2 long bolts from the bottom.. and the front of the starter there's a bracket with another nut to hold the starter in place.. You will have to loosen this bracket first the nut holding the bracket to the engine and the nut holding the starter in position.. Then you want to disconnect your batter.. then go about disconnecting the positive batter cable from the starter along with any connecting wires from the solenoid.. next depending on your headers... I had this problem, you need to loosen the bottom bolts these are long bolts u may be able to use a socket wrench at first but once they are loosened enough they might run into your exhaust pipes... I had to use pliers to loosen the rest of the way... once these bolts are removed the starter should drop.. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO WHETHER OR NOT UR STARTER HAS SHIMS ON TOP.. shims are thin pieces of metal that typically space the starter from the fly wheel.. On my 72 Monte with the 350 engine and AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, i didn't need shims.. You'll understand, the starter u bought probably came with a manual and instructions.. and shims and everything else u need. If u need shims you'll place them on top of the starter.. the bolt holes should line up and everything.. now putting these bolts back in are the hard part unless u line the starter up to the bolt holes the first try.. lol, if not this will be a pain in the arms.. unless of course u have a helping hand hold the starter in place while u screw these bolts in.. Once u have these bolts in you want to connect all your wires to the same connectors... make sure these wires go to the exact same place they came from.. connect your battery cable make sure all of these connections are nice and snug.. GET YOURSELF AND YOUR FRIEND FROM UNDER THE CAR! LOL.. Now you want to start your engine to make sure there are no whining sounds.. this will determine whether or not u need the shims... If you hear a whining or grinding sound you might need to remove the shims you thought you needed.. 1 at a time.. I KNOW ITS A EXHAUSTING PROCESS.. BUT IT'LL BE WORTH IT!!! If you don't hear any sound and all the it cranks right up.. then finally u can put the bracket back in place and tighten.. connect your battery and waaaah lahhhhhhhhh!! you are done..
This is for a 93 Z34 3.4, I believe the front cover is the same for both engines, making the water pumps identical. REMOVAL: Drain the cooling system into a suitable container. Slightly loosen the four 10mm bolts holding the water pump pulley in place. Take note of the way the accessory belt is routed. Use a large wrench to rotate the belt tensioner away from the belt. Remove the accessory belt. Carefully release the tensioner. Remove the bolts holding the water pump pulley in place and remove the pulley. Remove the water pump housing bolts and extract the water pump. Have a bucket handy in case anymore coolant comes out when you pull of the pump.
INSTALLATION: Install the new water pump with a suitable sealer on the gasket. Tighten the mounting bolts. Make sure the pump shaft spins as easily as it did when it wasn't installed. If it is binding, take it off and figure out why. Attach the pulley and firmly hand tighten the pulley bolts. Line up the accessory belt and rotate the tensioner to get it fully on. Release the tensioner. Now make sure to fully tighten the pulley mounting bolts. Start the car, let it warm up to operating temp and check for leaks. You're done!
or 46 minutes by car
Most tachs have a green wire that goes to the negative side of the coil, and at least two more wires for hot and ground. Sometimes there are two hots. One for the tach and one for the light. Check inside your tach to determine which wire goes to ground, and you should be able to figure it out from there.
When the tires are rotated, the system needs relearn tire position. This may also be a problem in the system if the warning on the dash says "service tire monitor system". There is a service bulletin to replace a few parts and re-program the system to correct this. - TechJK
On what Car or truck. I need Year, Make, and Model to answer this!
>A friend has a 2002 Monte Carlo where his "low tire pressure" warning has >been showing on his dash display. It only happens each time he has the >tires rotated. First time he had the GM dealer reset the light. All tires >are at the same and correct pressure...any ideas?
Yes, this happened to me once. Simply reset the dashboard display after rotating tires. The system works on an imbalanced number of revolutions at the wheel sensor of the ABS. First, make sure that the four tires are identical and have identical pressure. Then reset the display.
the sticker on mine says 19 - 28, it depends on how it's driven though
All I know is It was in theaters for hardly a week (aka it isnt doing well)
Monte Binga is the highest Mountain in Mozambique. It is located next to the Zimbabwe border in the Chimanimani Transfrontier Park in the province of Manica.
Check your fuses first. Starting in the early 90's, all manufacturers were required to build vehicles such that the brake must be depressed in order to shift out of PARK (assuming it is automatic). If this circuit is not functioning properly, you will not be able to shift. Some vehicles will allow you to shift by performing the following steps: # Turn the ignition switch past the lock, but do not switch it to the ON or START positions.
# Place the gear selector in NEUTRAL.
# Start the engine.
# Place the selector in the desired gear.
If this works, it is likely a blown fuse in the Brake Light circuit. Also, if the selector is placed in PARK after starting with this method, the ignition must be shut off and the process repeated. I know for sure this is the case for some Fords, but will not work on some Hondas and Toyotas. If the car has a manual transmission, the clutch is probably not disengaging when the pedal is depressed. When you try to put the car in gear, it will not go due to the synchonizers possibly due to a broken clutch cable or air in a hydraulic clutch system. With a clear path in front of the vehicle, you can place the transmission in 1st gear and try to start the car. THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS AS THE CLUTCH MAY NOT DISENGAGE AND THE VEHICLE WILL BE MORE DIFFICULT TO STOP IF IT DOES START! When the starter is engaged, the vehicle will roll. Be prepared to turn off the ignition immediately. Hope this helps.
If you have all wheel drive a previous posting said to totally replace the fluid you will need 4 bottles of fluid (2 litre).
Mine was a 2007 with 3.5l engine with AWD and it took 6 quarts of Dextron VI.
The 3.4 twin cam 24v engine was an optional motor to the 3.1 base model. And the 3.4 was standard to the Lumina Z34 and LTZ model which was later phased out for the 3800.
HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL covering 1995-2001 Lumina, Monte Carlo, and Impala (FWD) page 2A-1 states...cylinder location (engine--the part where you put the spark plugs) when looking from the front of the vehicle the cylinders are numbered from left to right 2-4-6 (front part of engine); 1-3-5 left to right (rear of engine). Firing order 1-2-3-4-5-6. At the other end of the spark plug wire you should find a "bank" which matches the spark plug wire with the corresponding port. The "bank" from left to right when standing in front of the vehicle is 5-2-3-6-4-1. Spark plug wires should be from number 1 cylinder to number 1 on the bank. Then number 2 cylinder to number 2 on the bank, etc.
It's 1-2-3-4-5-6 and that's from the owners manual of a 97 lumina.
i need to know what torque the head bolts down on my 1996 Monte Carlo cause i just got done doing a head gasgets on and i need to also need to now what to torque the rockers thank u for your help
The rockers are done with the engine running. Turn till they stop clattering and back off a quarter turn for hydraulic cams. Solid cams will have a lash setting on the cam card. have found that for initial startup lash all the rockers at .020 with the lifter at the base of the cam and this will help start the engine and keep it running while you finish the adjustment
You need to purchase a Haynes Manual that is specific to your car. They can be bought at a parts store or bookstore.
You will need: Jack, jackstands, various wrenches or socket set, new brake pads, c-clamp
I usually do one side at a time.
Jack the car up safely. Put the car on jackstands.
Take the wheel off.
Loosen the two caliper bolts.
Pull the caliper off, and remove the old pads.
Make sure you DONT let the caliper hang by the brake cable set it up behind the knuckle or get something to support it with.
Use a large C-clamp to push the piston back in.
Install the new pads on the caliper.
Put the caliper back on, tighten the bolts down.
Replace the wheel.
Move on to the other side. Repeat procedure.
Check brakes before going anywhere!
The bolt pattern for a 1977 Monte Carlo is a standard 5 lug by 4 3/4.
Gm does not use inertia switches.
go to the library and get a chiltons repair manual for Chevy 1986.
There are a few possibilities 1) your resivoir tank is cracked and leaking 2) your sending unit is covered in gunk or corroded 3) your sending unit is defective and needs replacing 4) you are leaking coolant from somewhere (bad hose, bad gasket, bad joint, etc)
Water is an acceptable quick fix, and tap water is fine (that is what you flush it out with). Once your problem is sufficiently solved, I would recommend a complete drain/flush/refill of your radiator with the proper mixture of coolant.
With the 5th generation Monte Carlos, when the overflow tank is emptied, and it kicks the sensor on, after you fill it up, the sensor may not reset or turn off and GM had problems with those sensors and they normally had to be replaced. It sounds like a bad coolant level sensor to me.
If you are lucky, and your Monte Carlo still has the factory stereo wiring plug attached? You can buy an adapter harness from Best Buy or Circuit city.The adapter harness will have the correct wiring info.
If you are like my friend who bought a car with the factory harness cut off,Here is what I found today.
The wires tested out as follows.Black with white stripe = GroundGrey with black stipe = GroundOrange = 12v non switched (on all the time)Yellow = 12v switched (on and off with the ignition)Brown with white stipe = 8v to 12v varied, switched with dash lights.Speaker wires were paired as follows...Yellow and Brown wires = Left rear speakerLight Blue and Dark Blue = Right rear speakerTan and Grey = Left FrontLight green and Dark green = Right Front
There was another set of Light green and Dark green wires, I have no idea what they went to. I recommend you pick up a multimeter to verify the power and speaker wires.
Drain the radiator into a container. Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine. there you will find the thermostat housing. Remove the housing and the thermostat. Clean the surfaces and install the new thermostat and hose. top off the radiator.jd
i think you mean coolant temperature sending unit. i take it your gauge doesn't work. if this is the case1.check fuses2.if fuses are good coolant temperature sending unit is proably bad.the coolant temperature sending unit is located at the left end of cylinder head. remember left is as you are sitting in the car. your right if you have hood up and are looking at motor. it's the upper one closest to the radiator hose. unplug, unscrew, and install new one.
Supplies Required You will need the following tools:
Sounds like to me you need a wheel bearing
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel:
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to test a power window motor to determine whether the problem is in the motor/regulator or the switch/wiring
It would depend what's wrong with the motor... it may be the motor or the assembly.. if your not having any sounds coming from the assembly, then check at the connector if power is actually getting to the motor..In many cases just by opening and closing the door, the wire inside the sleeve that feeds the motor and switch, gets broke , then you have to repair it... The motor itself is a simple motor, nothing fancy, I found a couple of times that the magnet which makes up the field in the motor breaks and jams the armature (the part that actually turns in the motor).. that's why I suggest to make sure that power is coming into the motor. once you verify this and there is, try running the motor without any cables connected.. you could have a jammed cable or dry track allowing the window to pull sideways and jamming it some more.. . if you find that it is the motor, you will probably find that most of them are self destructive, as they are not screwed together, they are assembled and another machine basically folds the metal closed. so to open the motor may make it impossible to re-assemble.
MOVE THE WIPERS TO THE UPRIGHT POSITION USING THE CONTROLS IN THE CAB. RAISE THE HOOD,GO TO THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE FIREWALL IN FRONT OF THE WIPER ARM THERE IS A PLASTIC COVER WITH ODD LOOKING PLASTIC FASTENERS THAT SCREW OUT THEN POP THEM OUT. TAKE THE COVER OFF AND THE FILTER WILL BE EXPOSED,ONE OTHER THING YOU WILL HAVE TO MOVE THE WINDSHIELD WASHER LINE OFF TO THE SIDE BEFORE REMOVING THE COVER.SOUNDS HARD BUT IS A SIMPLE PROCESS.GO FOR IT,YOU WILL FEEL GOOD ABOUT SAVING MONEY.
Buy a Haynes manual or factory service manual (FSM).
This is a messy and time consuming job. It isn't terribly hard though.
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