== == == == Try MOTORLIT.COM.
Hey Mario==It will be close to the exhaust flange and on some cars it is in the exhaust manifold. GoodluckJoe
Low oil, oil that has been thinned. Oil can be thinned by gas for example when there is a misfire or not changing the oil during the winter in colder climates. The excessive fuel finds its way into the oil.
Remove the battery, then you should be able to remove the "spin on" cover that holds the bulb in place
There is no need to remove the battery to change a headlight bulb. I have done this a few times already in my 98 Accord. All you need is a chubby Philips screw driver. There are three screws holding the headlight in securely. Loosten these (no need to remove completely) turn the exhisting headlight counter clockwise until you can see the plastic expansions are free from beneath the screws. Gently pull out and you can unclip the old light (a small flathead screwdriver used as a wedge works fine) and put in the new light. place the headlight back in and turn clockwise. (pay attention to the plactic expansions, make sure they are beneath the screws) Re-tighten the screws and you're done.
21 mm - dealership 23 mm - private garages, that's in Australia. Do not know about other countries.
Answer 1 Simply put, a relay of any kind is a remote switch controlled by another switch. Relays are usually used to control remote electrical devices which use heavy current [measured in Ampheres, or Amps]. A common example would be auxillary light systems added to a vehicle. The power supply wire would need to be very large to carry the needed current, and would have to be routed from the battery, into the passenger compartment to the instrument panel where a very heavy switch would be required. Instead, good practice is to route the heavy conductor[s] from the battery directly to the lights with a relay installed in between. Then a lighter switch would be installed in the instrument panel with wires from it to the relay. The lighter instrument panel switch and wires control the relay, which in turn controls the heavy current to the lights. This is only one example of the use of a relay. Some others are for powering high current devices such as power seats, power windows, auxilliary devices such as amplifiers, and other sound equipment. Also. to be sure that some circuits are turned off when the key is turned off, a relay will be installed between the "hot" when key is on terminal of the ignition switch to several smaller devices. Therefore, when the key is on, the devices will be "powered up," and when the key is off, they also will be powered down.j3h
Buy a Fram air filter CF-8603. Follow the step by step directions on the back of the box. This is not difficult and the box directions actually work!! (the directions could be clearer, but they work). I just did it, not hard.
Look on the driver's door post or in the owner's manual.
MARK THE POSITION OF YOUR ALTERNATOR ON THE MOUNT BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT!!! This makes it easy to reinstall the belt to the right tension.
It's pretty easy, put the car up on jack stands (I just drove my front driver's side wheel up onto the curb), DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY, remove your 12mm bolts on the top of the alternator and the 14mm on the bottom. Remove the green wire plugin, pop the alternator out of its space and turn it so that you can remove the pos wire 10mm nut with a socket and a couple extensions on it. If you have the strange mount that uses a difficultly placed 12mm nut to tension the belt, use a 12mm stubby box wrench from below (reaching up past the cv axle) to loosen it. I couldn't figure out another way.
Now from passenger's side panel, look down the firewall midway and you'll see where the heater hoses go in. Just before that you'll see a blend/mixer mounted of the firewall. Remove that one 10mm bolt holding it down. Now you can pull the alternator out from underneath those hoses by carefully lifting up on them. I found it came out easiest with the pulley side towards the motor.
Put the new alternator in the reverse. Tension the belt to the marks you put on the mount and tighten her up. If you forgot to mark the belt or put a new one on, the alternator belt needs 1/4 inch of travel. Meaning if you push on it from below in between the alternator pulley and the crankshaft pulley, it should depress no more then 1/4 of an inch.
Now thank your lucky stars for whoever discovered this trick rather then pulling the cv axle.I performed this operation about a year ago. I bought the Haines repair manual and went by those directions. The driver's side axle (left side in the USA) has to be disconnected from the transmission to create a clear access path to drop the alternator through. There is no other way to remove it. Note: The inner axle end only needs moving far enough to get the alternator past. The axle is very difficult to remove completely from the vehicle, so I left the outer end in the hub and the inner axle end held up with wire to prevent damage to the cv joint or rubber boot.
i just took the top driver side motor mount off and used a floor jack and jacked the motor up far enough to slip the altinator out it wasnt easy but a lot better than pulling and axle
I just changed the alternator on my 1986 Honda Accord (carborated). I did not need to remove the axle like everyone says. Once the old one is disconnected, it can slip along the firewal on it can be pulled out on the passenger side once it is free of the speedometer cable. I did have to remove one bolt. My buddy says it was for a heat selector valve. Once that was out of the way, it slipped out and put the old one in. It really helped to have a second person though. The total repair time was about two hours. It was my first alternator change and a pleasant experience.
If its fuel injected you can remove the air cleaner housing and remove it from the top, if its carbureted you must remove the left axle. But if you are careful , you can unbolt the alternator then pry the axle forward just a little bit so you dont have to remove the axle
On an 87 Accord with manual transmission (with carb.). You can remove the alternator by removing the hoses from the heater core on the firewall,remove the bolt that fastens the heat selector valve assemby to the firewall, pull the hoses and the assmbly out of your way, remove the air filter assembly from the carb. The alternator can then be worked out along the firewall on the passenger(right) side of the car. This is much easier than removing the drive axle. I don't know if this will work with automatic trans.
On an 86 Accord with automatic transmission, we just unbolted the alternator then worked it along the firewall, over to the passenger side of the engine. In order to do this we had to remove one bolt that holds the lower hose to heater core selecter. Then pull the hoses off and it came right out. It goes in the same way and we just had to replace the hoses we romoved because we had to cut them off. Very easy job and the hoses are not expensive. Taking the drive shaft off is bull crap. Its like a whole nother project and I would not recommend attempting to remove the drive shaft unless you absolutely have to. Came out beautiful!
The same thing can be accomplished on the 87 accord auto trans without removing the transaxle but you will have to remove the brake master cylinder. The alternator can be squeezed out the top this way but the bracket can not be attached to it or it will not fit through. There are also a few minor hoses and lines that will have to be undone and moved out of the way. The car I have is the LXI hatchback with a 12 valve engine that is super wide. On this car the around the back method would not work and removing the air cleaner still did not buy enough room because the manifold and the FI were in the way. Removing the master cylinder seemed a better option to me because I did not know how, or want to mess with the axle. This is a bad option however if you don't know how to bleed brakes.
1. Begin with the car turned off. Insert the key into the key slot. Do not turn the key yet. 2. With your left hand, press and hold the "Trip" button. Continue to hold it in until you have completed all steps of this procedure. 3. With your right hand, turn the key to the "On" position. (Do not turn it any farther. You'll start the car.) 4. Wait for approximately 10 seconds until the "Maintenance Required" light turns off. 5. Turn the key back to the "Lock" position. 6. Turn the key to the "On" position. 7. Release the "Trip" button.
Drain the radiator with the butterfly valve, it's located in the center on the back side of the radiator, at the bottom of course. Then move the drain pan under the rear of the engine to catch the little bit of coolant that will come from removing the thermostat. Remove the air cleaner cover and cold air intake tube. The housing for the LOWER radiator hose can be found beneath the cold air intake tube. It has a wiring harness connector bolted to it that needs to be removed for access. One of the housing bolts is a little difficult to see/reach. Remove the housing and thermostat. The gasket is rubber, and usually does not deteriorate, but a new one is only a couple of dollars.
The thermostat is around $12. Replace thermostat and re-assemble. Note that Hondas require their own brand of antifreeze, do not use the parts store stuff! Eventually it will rust away the coolant bypass tube on the rear of the engine.
Always should replace thermostat at same time; if this was not done, do so. Rust and gunk in the cooling system from a corroded radiator will often jam and damage the thermostat. Conversley, sometimes a corrding thermostat sets of the entire process by both stricking and by sending hicks of rust to the other cooling system components (radiator and water pump). After engine idles for a while (but prior to overheating) gently squeeze the large hose attached to the top of the radiator. Is it getting warm? If not, the thermostat is likely not working. The thermostat should click and open the route for the top radiator hose, when the temp gauge is no farther toward "H" than at or just below the halfway mark, or just above, on most vehicles. Once the thermostat opens up the route for the upper radiator hose, the temp gauge should fall quickly. If the thermostat wasn't replaced, appears to not be functioning, and is easily accessible and visible, tap it with a hammer (not hard enough to damage it)and see if it becomes unstuck. If your vehicle has an electric fan, make sure it is coming on after a few moments. If it isn't, check that its fuse is OK, that the wire connections are solid, then check that the fan relay is not burned out. A heat sensor sending unit which controls activation of the electric fan could also have failed. In some 60's vintage vehicles, one could often stop overheating by replacing the stock 4-bladed fan with a 5-bladed fan. If you have an automatic transmission that is routed through your cooling system, and you've tried everything possible to correct overheating, your tranny may be on its way out. The problems your tranny may be having having operating normally could be effecting the engine temp. I agree with the changeing of the thermostat , Here is one more sug your radiator cap is not maintaining proper pressure get it pressure tested IF YOU DIDN'T CHANGE THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN DOING ALL THAT OTHER STUFF, GO AHEAD AND CHANGE IT. IF THE OLD ONE IS BAD IT WON'T HOLD THE PROPER PRESSURE AND THE COOLANT CAN BOIL= OVERHEATING! email@example.com Check the fan to see if it's running. If the engine heats up and the fan isn't going, the fan motor is shot. If you have tried everything else and you are still having overheating problems you might have a bad head gasket. I didn't see what type of vehicle you were working on. I had a 1988 Dodge Caravan. I replaced everything in the cooling system including putting an oversized radiator in. The problem turned out to be a bad head gasket. I never observed any oil in the radiator. If the thermostat was replaced and water pump and radiator as you say then there are only a couple things that it can COMMONLY be.It always seems to me that people like to take out the engine before replacing the spark plugs.Take theese words of advice(alot of people over analyze things)99 percent of the time it's the easy stuff!your problem is probably the radiator cap.If it is not holding the proper pressure it will overheat.cost is about 4.95. could be bad head gaskit
The cam shaft pully has an arrow that alligns with a notch on the upper timing belt cover, the front balancer shaft has two arrow that must point at each other, the rear balancer shaft is properly alligned by removing a bolt from an access hole in the rear of the block and sticking a 6mmx100mm rod into a hole in the shaft, and the crank is aligned by positioning the timing indicator at top dead center which can be observed by removing a rubber plug between the transmission and engine block near the starter.
Possible air bag system malfunctioning. Take the car back to where the work was done, and have them look at it.
The alignment service was just a coincidence. This is a known problem and Honda issued a TSB on this.
Simply take your car to your local Honda dealer and tell them about the SRS light and remind them that there is a TSB on the issue. Your dealer should replace the OPDS sensor at no charge, regardless of age or mileage, as a goodwill gesture.
I had this done recently and it is has worked beautifully.
Oil pan - you need to get under the vehicle and remove the engine support that runs under the engine from front to rear. Remove all the screws holding the oil pan. Clean off the old gasket from the oil pan and engine block completely. They may need to be scraped to get them clean, but don't scratch the surfaces. Use a little silicone sealant (rtv) to stick the gasket to the pan. You may wish to put a little sealant on the block side as well. Then put the pan back in place and attach the screws loosely. Tighten them up slightly in cross patterns (not in a circle). Then tighten them a little more in a cross pattern. Then tighten them all up a final time. Wait a few hours before you put new oil in.
I highly recomend that you don't try this yourself. this is not a job that should be done it you don't have experience in Hondas. it rquires the removal of the timing belts and setting them up correctly when you are done....tension is very important on these cars!!!! if you still want to do it email me and i will send you a timing belt diagram that will help. Good Luck.....Michael
Hi Mike . Thank you for your help on changing a water pump on my Honda.I will be trying this with a firend of mine so i would like to see if you can send me what you have that may help, really appreciate it Victor from Cerritos, Calif Chie_90703@yahoo.comQuestion,
I wanted to see if you could e-mail this diagram. I have a 1995 Honda accord ex and I am going to get done the timing belt and the water pump. I won't be doing it but a mecanic will. I have seen videos on how a timing belt is change but they don't mention anything about the water pump. I would like to see the job get done right but I wouldn't know unless I know what is being change. I already know about the to belts that are change and how they are replace and how especific you have to be in order for them to be right and where the tension is lose and place into presure once the new belts are in. However I am not quite sure where the water pump really is. If you could please e-mail me this diagrama that would be great. Thank you. My e-mail is firstname.lastname@example.org
If it's the same as a '96 accord (which I bet it is), you need to remove the hub assembly and take it to a machine shop. The Bearings are large "press in" assemblies that Harry Homeowner can't handle.
Replacing ft brake rotors = a trip to the machine shop too.
Locate two 4x4 blocks of wood about 12 inches in length.Then find a good quality stove bolt for the middle of the berring.Use a brass punch to drive the berring out.place wooden blocks each side of roter...
The 1994-1997 (and probably later) Accords have a hub bearing assembly which bolts in from behind the knuckle. (Machine shop not necessary). It is still a fairly involved job.
It requires removal of the steering knuckle from the vehicle, loosen the four bolts that hold in the hub bearing, drive the hub bearing out. The brake rotor is captive between the front flange of the hub bearing and the knuckle. A machine shop is not required to remove it, but it does involve separating ball joints, tie rod, etc, and sometimes heating the knuckle with a torch in order to drive the bearing assembly out after the bolts are removed, as it is often seized in place by rust.
is it at the front or the similar one at the rear (passenger side) of the engine? Both are two-wire, with green plugs.Answeranswer is at: http://autorepair.about.com/library/illustrations/bl524a-lib.htm it is behind the front green connector (controls fan) and ahead of the distributor. ... Al
Which one are you looking for? There are 3 sensors/switches. There is a sensor that sends a signal to your temp guage (Right on the pass. side of the head below the distributor) which is probably the one you're wanting. There's also a switch that controls your cooling fan and also one at your thermostat housing.
Leaving the gas cap not tightly installed. Gotta be kept on and twisted fully into place. Most common reason this occurs.
It takes about 4.5 quarts if you're changing the filter, which is located on the BACK side of the engine. Drain plug is on the bottom of the engine on the oil pan.
The maintenance light automatically starts flashing when you reach a certain mileage. It does not mean that you need to do maintenance (although scheduled maintenance is recommended), it is just a reminder. Additionally, it is a reminder to change your oil. If you reset it each time you change you oil, then supposedly based on how you drive it the car will tell you to when to change the oil.
To reset your maintenance light, follow this procedure
Odometer reset button procedure # Turn the key to the II position (but not to III, or START) # Turn the key to the 0 (OFF) position, then push -- and hold -- the trip odometer reset button
# Turn the key back to the II position, while still holding the button # After about 10-15 seconds, the light should go off # Release button and turn key to 0. (source: http:/www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maintenance-reqd-light.html )
Your speedometer is electronic and receives electric pulses from the speed sensor in the transaxle. First disconnect the battery and then locate the speed sensor in the transaxle. Remove it by loosening the 3 bolts while being extremely careful not to loosen the drive link. Replace in the opposite order and tighten bolts tightly.
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