where is the heater core at

Check fuse for stop lights same circuit for shift interlock or turn key to 1st position (unlock) and move shift lever to neutral to start

Remove the alternator and the bracket that holds the alternator to the engine. You can then 'reach' in there to get to the back plugs. It's difficult to do but I found this to be the only way I could do it on my old '90 Grand Prix.

Make sure the engine is cold before you change the plugs - DON'T STRIP THE THREADS IN THE HEAD by getting in a hurry. Park it overnight with the hood up in the garage or let it sit outside with the hood unlatched to cool.

Good Luck!

I have a 96 grand am 3.1 liter, and I don't need to remove the alternator to change the rear 3 plugs. What I do is remove the small air duct running from the alternator to where the hood meets the windshield. It should come off pretty easily. It has rubber ends which slide onto the alternator, and the vent by the windshield that it hooks up to. After that, disconnect all of the electrical plugs that meet up aroud the same spot that the air duct was and move them out of the way. In my experience, this has provided me with enough room to get a ratchet in there and remove the plugs. Try to use a socket specifically made for spark plugs, or you will spend a lot of time trying to get the plug in the hole. The spark splug socket has a rubber grip on it to hold on to the plug while you position it. If you don't do this, you will likely end up dropping the plug into the little area surrounding the plug hole, and it takes forever to get it out to try again. Also, when removing the old plugs, try to remember the angle that they went in on because you can't really see back there. It makes it a lot easier when inserting the new plugs if you get in there at the correct angle.

I agree with answer #2. I removed the same rubber attachment from the alternator and repositioned some wires. You really can't see anything down there so it is all done by feel. I got by with the spark plug socket, a knuckle/pivot socket and a few different extensions. The hardest part is finding the hole with the new plug, you can't even feel it with your finger it's so far back. Like he said, remember the angle and just feel around with the new plug.

I took the dogbones off and pulled the motor forward to make more rrom to reach the plugs. Takes time but works. bratt

tools u can use are a noid light....or an injector pulser ''TOOL''

1-6-5-4-3-2 #1 cylinder is in the front on the passaenger side and you wire it from the top down on the coil pack

Where is the fuel pump relay switch located on a 1994 Grand Am SE

If the main and/or rod bearings are worn, the oil pressure can't be maintained after the oil warms up and thins out. You might be able to get a little more life out of the engine by switching to a heavier weight engine oil.

It is possible also that just the oil pump has worn and can't produce enough pressure at idle. Very often, though, if the pump is worn, so are the bearings, and vice-versa.

On the dash board display you will see a red light in the form of a downward arrow pointing to water. Eventually the car will overheat if not serviced immediately. Careful though. Most auto repair shops will try to con you into purchasing a new timing chain with tensioners which can be very costly. Timing belts or chains are not always worn to the point of replacement. On mine, the belt would squeal when I first started the engine. Oh yea, that puddle of coolant under the water pump was a clue also.

Remove the cover on the steering column. If it has tilt steering unscrew the tilt lever out of the steering column first. On the passenger side of the steering column near the ignition switch there is 3 small wires going from the ignition to the top of the column. they are yellow, black, and white. The white goes to nothing. Start the car and let run. Right after starting cut the yellow wire then turn the engine off. Car will start then but you will have a flashing security light all the time when switch is on. Its best to attach a 20 gauge wire to each end of the yellow wire and run them under the dash somewhere out of the way and hook a toggle switch to them in case you ever want to turn it back on in the future. I just had to do this to my 97 achieva cause i was having starting problems and it fixed it right up. Trust me, it will disable the security.

The calais is not a very common car anymore (and yes, I do own one, but it a 4cyl).

GM puts a few engines in many cars. Please specfiy the engine size (displacement) and you will get an answer.

on the side of the thermostat housing there is a small screw with the motor is running make sure the heater is on loosen the screw let the water run until you see a steady flow then tighten back up.

I disagree with the previous poster. The cooling system is bled by loosening the screw on the metal pipe just behind the water pump housing. The pipe goes upward off the housing and has a bleed screw on the end of it.

To Bleed the cooling system, turn the heater to full hot and open the screw and add coolant to the resevior until you get a bubble free flow of coolant from the bleed screw. At this point the system is bled and just tighten the screw.

You're also going to have to drop the crossmember if you're changing the gasket

As with all cars, the oil collects it the lowest part of the engine. That's why your oil drain plug is where it is. You can see the oil pan by jacking up the front of the car and putting it on proper jack stands. NEVER support a car on just the jack; I speak from painful experience. If you wiggle under the engine and find the lowest part where the drain plug is you will be able to see the oil pan bolts going up into the engine block. In fact, the oil pan itself with trace the size of the block, so you will probably see a dozen bolts or more around the edge of the oil pan. If you want to remove it, make sure you drain the oil first, and never drain the oil when it's hot or you will be severely burned. If you remove the oil pan, you will need a new gasket when you replace it.

under the driver side tire,jack it up for access

the front speakers are 4"x6". the rear speakers are 6"x9"

Bad plug?

Bad wire?

Bad piston or valve (do a compression test)

Welcome to the club! I have an 02 grand am. 00-04 grand ams have 'passlock' problems. You can get the car started by leaving your key in the on position for at least ten minutes, then switch it to off after ten minutes and try to start it, that will work for a while. Eventually that trick will stop working though. Then you can bypass the security system by cutting the wire, as detailed at the site I've included below. That's what I did but it only worked for a few months. My next hope is that replacing the bcm will work.

The related link below will give you a better clue as to what im rambling on about!

clean off the battery cables, relplace the spark plugs or replace the MAP sensor * Battery Cables- could be messing with the igniting of the gasoline witch makes your engine sloppy * Repalce Spark Plugs- not all the fuel is being combusted, if you replace with AM -Delco Rapid Fire Plugs, it should fix it or help alot * MAP sensor- most expensive, but it regulates how much fuel the engine needs so it can combust properly

I would suggest you take this project to a shop that does alignments also. This sometimes can be alot of work and then it has to be aligned after it is installed.

heater coil i got 1 for 15$ its not hard to do. just time consuming you start by removing the plastic under the dash 4 small bolts behind the center console take out that plastic and then another plastic it has 6 bolts i think then your heater coil has four blots and last go under the car or behind the motor and disconnect the 2 rubber hoses may take about two hours hope this helps

h20 = water

Smokemeter is an instrument used to measure the soot content or graphitic carbon of exhaust gases.

The unit of measurment is FSN (Filter Smoke Number) or paper blackening (PB)or soot concentration(mg/m3).

The turn signal flasher is located behind the instrument panel on right hand side of

steering column bracket.

Rear of engine near firewall.