Chevy Astro

To replace the dimmer switch on a 1994 Chevrolet Astro, first disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent any electrical mishaps. Remove the steering column covers to access the switch. Unplug the wiring harness connected to the dimmer switch and unscrew it from the steering column. Replace the old dimmer switch with a new one and reassemble the steering column covers before reconnecting the negative battery cable.

You have accidentally hit the "windows lock" button. This allows the driver's window to open but no others. Hit the "windows lock" button again and everything should work fine. The "windows lock" button on my 1991 Toyota Camry is to the right of my "doors lock" button.

P0171 and P0174 (mixture too lean) is a known design fault. Excessive oil is pulled into the air intake plenum above the engine from the PCV tube, and the accumulated oil causes the seals on the isolator bolts holding the plenum onto the intake manifold to fail and leak. The solution is to replace the isolator bolts (current ones have improved seals), intake/plenum gaskets, and possibly some other vacuum hoses. See Ford TSB 03-16-1.

It seems as though your Idle Air Controller isn't responding fast enough. If this isn't working correctly then it can cause the other two codes.

See "Related Questions" below for more on the isolator bolts problems, and more importantly, the fix.

Your fuel filter may be clogged and need to be replaced. You may also have a weak fuel pump or trash in the tank. The strainer on the fuel pump in the tank may be clogged( build up over years of use).That may be why it cranks fine the next day , the trash has settled back down to the bottom of the tank. I would like to add to this answer. My Trooper is a 1999 and was having a similar problem. It was like chasing a ghost. It would start cold every time but after it warmed up, I would have to press the accelerator to get it to start. The reason, I finally discovered, was because the fuel pressure regulator was bad. What I did was to run the car until it was warm then shut it off. Then go to the fuel pressure regulator and remove the vacuum line and check to see if there was fuel present in the line. If there is, the regulator is bad. In essence, what this does is to bleed fuel back into the combustion chamber after you shut off the engine therefore overloading it with fuel the next time that you start it. That's why you would have to pump the gas to clear it out when starting it warm. That fuel dissipates over time which is why its fine in the morning. GOOD LUCK.

Code 45 on a 1992 Chevy Astro typically indicates a rich exhaust mixture, which means there is too much fuel relative to air in the combustion process. This can be caused by issues with the fuel injection system, oxygen sensor, or engine control module. It's recommended to diagnose and address the root cause of the rich exhaust condition to prevent potential damage to the vehicle.

In addition to the fuse box located under the steering column of a 1995 Chevy Astro van, there is another fuse box under the hood. Look for the secondary fuse box near the driver's side fender, close to the windshield. It is typically a black plastic box with a removable cover. The under-hood fuse box contains various fuses and relays that control functions such as the engine, lighting, and other electrical components. Refer to the owner's manual or the fuse box cover for specific details on fuse locations and functions.

easy, remove the large engine cover situaeted in the cab below the radio area, engine will be totally exposed, map sensor on rear off engine to rear of manifold opposite side to driver, jlwimports@yahoo.co.uk

the module is under the coils, unplug the wires, unbot all three coils and unbolt the module. Make sure to use plenty of dielectric grease for a good ground

Remove door panel ,3 -10mm bolt hold mirror on pull slow till tou see power window plug disconnect replace with new.

It should be located beside the distributor. When looking from the front of the engine it should be on the drivers side. About 6-8 inches to the right of the distributor.

Hope this helps.

What kind of Fuel Injection system do you have? Do you have a fuel rail? If you have a fuel rail - it is at the tip of the fuel rail (front of the engine). There are two tiny bolts that secure the fuel reg to the base of the front fuel rail (bolts with tiny nuts on the inside - so be careful about losing them around the heat shield that is on top of the intake manifold).

Once you have freed the fuel reg. from the base of the fuel rail, it will come off of the fuel rail. Remember, to de-pressurize the fuel system (there is a cap nut on the side of the rail, take the cap off and de-pressurize). Sometimes, you do not have to de-pressurize (on the rail side of the fuel reg. sometimes that o-ring fails, and that willautomatically depressurize the system). You have to depressurize, or prepare to take a quick mini shower in gasoline.

Ok, the other side of the fuel reg. - not the fuel rail side, but the other side. You should see a VACUUM WIRE BLOCK JUNCTION. Fuel reg has a vac hose that plugs into a manifold fitting - disconnect it and lay it aside. Pull that VACUUM WIRE BLOCK JUNCTION directly upwards and it will come off (don't break it!). Under that juction block is a bolt - loosen it. The retaining clip for the junction block - remove it, and the wire harness retaining ring (flat pice of rounded thin gage stock meant to hold the wire harness on the front side of the engine manifold. Most importantly, remove the same style retaining clamp for the fuel line. Now, you can work on the Fuel reg. - it is freed up, and should wiggle around freely although it is still attached to the hose. I goota get back to work - this should be easy from here on out - reverse the procedure for installation and send $20.00 to Wulfmun! Just kiddin - good luck! Wulfmun.

if it is just a blown exhaust manifold gasket it can ruin your valves, so replace it correctly and make sure everything is clean before putting on the new gasket

IF you are looking to open the doors all the way. on the inside door frame you will find a guide and a spring that attaches to the door and the frame the flat steal guide set in a pin on the door frame lift it and it should pop off the pin this enables the door to swing all the way open.

The fuse between the battery and alternator is a fusible link in the small wire that hooks up to the battery terminal along with the regular battery cable. It looks like a thick spot in the wiring. To replace, the cable must be replaced. .

Try slapping the fuel tank, maybe the pump is gone. also bad for fuel line poppet valves under intakes. These vans will only run on a certain fuel pressure! Any lower and you can have problems. get it checked out fuel pump is in gas tank. To fix the fuel pump, the tank has to be removed (no smoking) ,so some diy mechanics cut a hole in the top above the fuel pump ,so the next time it will be easy.

Just fixed my the easiest way. Remove bottom screw through existing round access hole. Cut a hole in the side of the door adjacent to the top screw. Make the slot big enough to get your finger and a wrench into it. Remove the top screw, disconnect the rod on the old door handle by pushing the tip with a screwdriver, remove old handle. Install new handle. It is easier to pull the latch to open position to get it into the door and behind the long lock rod. use needle nose or screwdriver to align and push latch rod into latch BEHIND long lock rod. Put the nuts back on screws, tighten, test, latch. Viola. Patch new hole with metal plate or duct tape.

it depends on the vehicle but usually 5 minutes to 15 i have personally changed several myself and im not a mechanic by trade. Most have 2 bolts and a tension bolt for the belt

some cars require the radiator and the a/c condenser to be taken out just to see the alternator (2000) cadi deville book time is 3 hrs plus a a/c recharge and coolant flush. i wouldn't say 5 or ten minutes all car have a labor guide for all labor related repairs chilton and motor manuals you can go to a public library and get info on disc or books . i repaired autos for 35 years and you would not believe the places they put these things average time is 1 hr. and includes load test and alt output test

On mine, the module on the distributor checked-out OK; It was the transducer (I think it's called) inside the dist. You have to remove (mark it's position first) & disassemble (be patient and careful) the dist. to change it. I think it was around 40.00 at Autozone. Good luck.

If the light stays on, it shows that there is a hard fault in the fuel system, emissions control etc etc. Either disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or so or take it to a shop to get the code read..that will tell you what part is malfunctioning. There is no other way to shut it off because the light is controlled by the ECM.

I have taken it to the shop but the computer says there are no codes stored then the light goes out but a few days later it comes back on I take it to the shop and it is the same responce No Codes Stored and the light goes out

The fusible links on a 1993 Ford Ranger are located throughout the vehicle and primarily in the engine compartment. They prevent circuit overloads and must be replaced each time they are burned through.

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AFTER I RAN OUT OF FUEL AND I WAS INSTRUCTED TO LEAVE MY IGNITION ON FOR AROUND FIVE MINUTES TO PRIME THE FUEL AND TO MY GREAT PLEASURE IT DID THE TRICK, I DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM YOU HAVE BUT GIVE IT A SHOT ,HOPE THIS HAS BEEN HELPFUL FOR YOU.GOOD LUCK.

My XJ8 refused to start after switching it off after only running it for a few seconds; I was told the cylinders were flooded with fuel (when the engine is cold more fuel is pumped into the cylinders).

The remedy was to start the engine with the gas pedal flat on the floor (don't 'pump' it); this will stop any further fuel being sent to the cylinders and will also clear them of any excess fuel. When the engine starts just take your foot off the pedal and let it warm up. Hope this helps.