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They stopped making Pontiac in 2010

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high probability

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Pipe have a hole

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It depends on what branch of GM you are talking about ,what division, and for what purpose it is intended.

for a large part most of the car/truck/suv is farmed out to supplier companys that search out the cheapest local bidder.

The question is really to broad to give you the intended answer with out more exact information

Most of the steel in US produced autos is imported from China.

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You need to buy or borrow a pair of thin wrenches that fit between the clutch and water pump. I got an Ampro T75508 set from NAPA. Soak the nut with a good penetrant (not WD-40) overnight.

You can go to auto zone and rent for free a five piece tool set that will fit over the four bolts on the pump pully. After doing this, you can use a 12" adjustable wrench to take the nut off of the pump. Sometimes taking off the fan helps aid in assessability.

Question: Facing the engine, which direction do you turn the nut ? The nut on my 1991 Ford F150 4x4 is stamped R.

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YES. The 4544 is the HEAVY DUTY pump for that model year. The 4267 is the heavy duty pump for it's model year. GM has 2 pumps every model year (light duty and heavy duty).

The newer parts superceed the older parts. You might even see a performance increase.

If your truck has a lot of miles, it would be very much worth the extra effort to rebuild the injetors (roughly $19/ea).

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1901, became a part of GM in 1909.

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It stands for Limited Promotional Option. These are optional accessories normally installed by the dealer.

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Depends on how well you take care of it cars can last for years if well take care of.

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(400/14) x $3.75 = $107.14 (rounded)

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A skeletal muscle with its proximal attachments near the joint or joints at which it acts, and its distal attachments at some distance from the joints, so that the greater part of its force is directed along the bones, tending to pull joint surfaces together. This makes shunt muscles good stabilizers.

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You need to set the engine back to TDC. TDC is 'top dead center', this means that the engine's #1 piston is at the peak of its compression rotation. There should be a little notch mark on the engine block near the crankcase (a hayne's manual for you car would explain all this). Anyways once you have set the engine to TDC, you can then put the distibutor back in, making sure it is in the correct position for firing. Also be sure to check spark plugs and wires for weak linkage. Don't forget that all 4-stroke engines require that the timing mark be at TDC WHEN #1 CYLINDER IS AT TOP OF COMPRESSION STROKE! Very common mistake as the TDC mark will show twice for every revolution of the Distributor. what second answer said is thrue but it dosent really mater which cycle you pick as long you are at TDC.

and to elaborate a little more about this tread. it is almost impossible for any one to incorrectly line up the distributor back into the engine be cause they usually have a guide at the bottom of the shaft. unless you miss a line the shaft 180 degrees.

If that was the case all you have to do is pick cylinder 1 firing order to be distributor cap #3 wire out put and go with the order from there

same order 1-3-4-2

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Locations View

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Standard Luxury Trim

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$28.00 hourly for general assembly. Skill Trades and team leaders get a tad bit more hourly.

The cost of building a car works out to 4% covers the workers on the line Government 12% 24% to the suppliers , over head or as GM puts it profit sharing?

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Fracing truck radiator with hood up. To the inner (towards radiator) side of the of light bezel is a vertical rubber strip 1/2" x 6" or so high. Rubber strip hinges expsosing a recessed socket with either Allen or torx. Rotate this socket to adjust up or down. Can't remember which way to turn for up or down. YOU can see long silver colored shaft from the Allen or torx socket extening to the rear of the headlight housing.

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The truck was based off of a Ford super duty

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I had a problem one time with my Chrysler New Yorker. If the power windows would not work then the a/c would not turn on, if I turned the car off and tried the window switch if the window worked the a/c worked. My mechanic said it was a bad ignition switch. He changed it out and no more problems. I believe there may be a code stored in the computer that can be cleared out, if no other problems exist. ----- Here's what you need to do.... (taken from a 4x4 newsboard from "Kevin")

Disconnect the battery negative cable to allow the A/C control module to reset. It has gone into fail safe mode due to excessive cycling of the compressor clutch. Once it is reset you will be able to again run the compressor to diagnose the system. It will go into fail safe if the compressor cycles more than 15 times in one minute or something like that (not exactly sure of the time period). Your compressor will cycle too often if you are low on refrigerant and cause the control module to enter the failure mode. When you reconnect the battery & start the truck, immediately start charging the system with freon.

There is also a known problem with the harness connector to the low pressure clutch cycling switch that can cause the same problem. Many parts supply stores carry the replacement harness connector to fix the problem of poor and intermittent contact at the connector. To test your low pressure cycling switch harness connector, just wiggle it a little bit while the compressor clutch is engaged. If the connector is bad you will notice the clutch cutting in and out as you wiggle the wires going into the connector.

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Hey Randy==It is at the rear top of the engine under the dist. Goodluck, Joe

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Fuel pump relay is located under the hood on passenger side bolted to the firewall a few inches below the windshield. It is black and has wires going into it.

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take it to a Chevy dealership & pay $773.00 like im having to do right now

Wrong! For one thing no dealer will charge much at all to simply replace the fuel filter. Do it yourself, and it will save you money. It is normally located along the driver's side frame rail, inboard side between the back to the driver's door and the fuel tank. It looks kind of like a small tin can with the fuel line attaching at the rear and front of the unit. It may be somewhat rusty or dirty after a few years on the vehicle. I suggest looking for it and once you find it, spray a small amount of penetrating oil on the threads of the fuel line connectors the day before you plan on removing it. Then, simply turn the line fittings with a tight fitting wrench or line wrench so you don't round the corners off the fittings. The back fitting into the filter turns upward (counter clockwise) and the front turns downward (still counter clockwise) to remove the old one. There is a plastic band around the filter holding it in against the frame. Unsnap the band and it is removed. Have a rag or paper towel standing by as it may drip a little gasoline. Then dispose of them in your trash can after shaking any fuel out in a safe and proper place. The fittings do not require sealant as they are compression fittings like the vehicle's brake lines. The new filter is marked with an arrow for the direction of fuel flow. I own a 2003 GMC Sierra Crew Cab which is the same generation truck as yours.

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Jim Murphy, Jim Ball, Mike Smith and Cappalino car dealerships all provide General Motors cars in Buffalo, NY. It will depend then on where in Buffalo you are.

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I don't think you can it is set at the factory. I believe all fuel injection engines are like that.

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In order to check the oil level u have to crawl under the truck and locate a screw on the side of the tranny. Stick ur little finger in the hole then curl ur finger down. Remove ur finger and look at the fluid line on ur finger it should be full to the point to where it starts to come out the hole when u fill it up from that location. That's also the filling location.