The main transport fluid in your body is your blood. This fluid is found throughout the body in great amounts.

hello is anybody there ?

What year and model might help.

Simple. Lower the armrest, then push IN HARD. The armrest will push in slightly towards the seat. When this happens, push DOWN on the armrest, twisting it until just about straight downwards. You'll feel the armrest loosen up. Jiggle it slightly while PULLING OUT on it-- it should then pull out of the seatback. After it's out, you'll see it operates by a pin on the armrest shaft that fits into a keyhole on the seat.

If it is not overheating then the temp gage or the sending unit are bad.

When hooking up a scan-tool to my girlfriend's daughter's 93 SC2 DOHC, I get a Quad Driver Module 1 Fault. I can clear the code, but it will return next time the engine is started. Most technical literature I have been able to get my hands on identifies a quad driver (there are apparently 2 or 4 of them) as a component internal to the PCM which is used to energize various relays and solenoids in the system The QDM is internal Pcm and contorls various components from check engine light to cooling fan to EGR soenoid and pugre solenoid. If it comes on as soon as you start the car most likely the EVAP purge solenoid is the fault. Rather than guess take it to the dealer spend 40$ and get them to do a QDM test this will tell you which component is failing and save the guess.

you possibly could but theres alot int the way. I took out the engine mounts and jacked the engine back with a ratchet strap. gave me about 4 more inches between the firewall. then took them out from under the hood with long extentions. there a bear to get out but i hat fighting that stuff with tools over my head. A boot remover plier helped alot on that center plug...

5 2 3 6 outside shorter bolts

7 1 4 8 inside longer bolt

44 ft lbs first step

95 degrees second step

you must do the same step for each heads

If you mean the Emissions Evaporator canister; it is under the vehicle fastened to the frame near the fuel tank. It is a rectangular shaped black plastic box with a few hoses and lines connected to it. The lines are connected with quick connectors, and there are some going to the fuel tank and some going up front to the engine.

Maybe I shouldn't be answering this one, because it is a little ambiguous for me, so I'll answer in a couple of ways. If you mean that you have installed it in a different vehicle then a 98, it could very well be slipping because it has a sensor that informs the computer as to what is happening with it. The trans shifting has to be relearned by the computer. This is just one more area of self presivation the dealerships use. They charge a fortune just to take the vehicle out on a relearn mission, which anyone can do if they have access to the information as to how to do it. Second since the trans shifting is controlled by the computer, and it's not getting that response back, the computer may be getting confused, and simply just calls the lack of response to mean that the trans is not doing what it is being told to do. Even though the computer is mostly in control, there is still a modulator valve ( like the old trans had ) that plays a part in the shifting, and or slipping.

you eat 25 corndogs ! :]

GM Method: # place car on vehicle lift. # Place Jack stands under Engine sub-frame. # Disconnect all electrical and plumbing # Disconnect all suspension element from front wheels # unbolt Engine sub-frame # Raise car ## Transmision ## Engine ## Front Axles # Sub-frame is left behind with # Remove engine from transmission # Reverse process. Haynes/chilton has a do-it-home process that dissemble allot of the front of the car, to then use a cherry picker to grab the engine out of a much enlarged hood cavity. Read one of their books for more info.

blah blah blah if you ask this question you are a nerd

The fuel filter for most GM vehicles is behind the driver, under the vehicle.

You can't unless you wan to replace the windhield. The antenna is built into the windshield.

You begin by removing the fender support brace on the left side over the battery and disconnect the battery. Then put on the emergency brake and put the car in neutral. There are two engine support braces on the front connecting the engine to the front of the car. They reach over the radiator and connect where the hood latches. Remove these breces but leave the bracket on the engine and the from. Now get a ratching strap and loop it from the frame bracket to the engine. You are goint to rotate the the engine forward by tightening the strap. The engine will roll forward and rotate around the transmission. If the car is not in neutral you will break your motor mounts. With the engine rolled forward it is a reach and a squeeze but you can get to the spark plugs. At a shop the car can be lifted and the pluge accessed from underneath the backside of the engine. Good Luck.

I was able to access the back plugs by jacking the van up, putting jackstands under it and reaching up where the exhaust pipe come down through. It is tight and requires patience, but got it done. Hardest part was getting boot off of plugs

LED digital, time zone, calendar and atomic clocks, timers, counters, and world time zone displays. Toll-free calling provided.

That's leaving the scene of an accident and can be considered a felony. They can run the plates on the car and find you anyway. It's best to turn yourself in.

If anyone was injured, you may also be charged with leaving the scene of an accident with injuries and/or failure to render aid.

This answer will vary by the year of the Pontiac Montana. See sources and related links below to lookup the exact answer by vehicle make, model and year. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

Sound like you're out of oil.

this is how i removed them i used a plug socket and two 3" extensions i put one extension into the socket placed this over the plug with the other extension on a 3/8 drive ratchet i then was able to place one ext. into the other that was on the plug removing the plug all was done from the top iam 6 ft and at 220 # so my arms are not small altho are fairly long this is for passenger side that sets under alternator to start the plug back into the hole i use a piece of rubber hose about 4" long i stick this over the plug am able to start plug back into hole without droping them the rest are fairly easy

The rear bank of sparks are hard to reach unless you have tiny arms. If you don't then you must remove the plentum. Also, you will need new plentum gaskets when re-installing.

I REACHED THE 3 REAR PLUGS ON MY 92 VOYAGER BY RAISING THE CAR ONTO JACKSTANDS AND DOING IT FROM THE BOTTOM. NEED TO BE CAREFUL SO YOU DONT CROSSTHREAD THE PLUGS GOING BACK IN BUT IT CAN BE DONE. JRT NEW MILFORD CT

This is how I removed mine: (1) Remove the windshield wiper arms and the cowl cover (black plastic below windshield) Remove the windshield wiper motor and linkage from the firewall. There are many individual steps to this but all are easy. (2) The driver side sparkplug should be removable using a socket with an elbow. This was easy. (3) I loosened the alternator and then could removed the passenger side sparkplug using an a socket with an elbow. This was not easy. (4) I removed the middle sparkplug by using a socket with an elbow, an extension, and another elbow on the socket wrench. This was difficult. (5) I ended up replacing the (middle) sparkplug(s) from the bottom after jacking the van up and putting it on jackstands. If I were to do it again, I would remove the cowl cover (this allows enough room to get on the sparkplugs with a socket) and remove the sparkplugs from the bottom. This would probably save a lot of scratches and time. The plenum does not have to be removed if the cowl cover and windshield wiper motor are removed.

The sparkplus socket with elbow was purchased at Sears. Overall, it took me about 4 hours trying to do most of the work from the top. Most of this time was spent trying to figure out how to make things work when you can't see what you're doing and when there's not much room to work. I felt really stupid when I noticed that all three sparkplugs are visible from the bottom once the cowl is off and there's enough room to work provided you have the elbow socket and extensions. The Chilton's manual wil tell you how to remove the cowl and windshield wiper motor.

Good luck and be happy the sparkplugs only need to be replaced every 100,000 miles.

I heard that removing the air filter will allow you easy access to the back spark plugs.. Will see when I try it this week on my 93 3.0L v6

this one is rigth you will need two short extention for the far left spark plug the others are easy to get too. that is next to the alternater ther are to screws hold on the air filter housing.

On Passenger's side, found top one and a front one near the compressor.

Jacked engine to release pressure.

There must be others as it has not loosened.

It is unclear below where the bracket stops.

Any ideas ?

how do you change a brake booster valve to a 1998 Pontiac transport