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you have to run a mercon 5 fluid or compatiable. If you run regualar mercon in it you will have a transmission chater whenit shifts into overdrive. Make sure you drain your tork converter too.

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check your owners manual?

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the low side hose is the one that is bigger

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it has DSI, which means there is no rotor. if your having ignition problems just check the coil packs and wires. look for cracks or white-ish lines. if the car has over 100 grand just replace it all.

If your talking about the brake rotors (discs) remove the wheel, then take the bolts off that hold your caliper in place. That's the part that hold your brake pads. You will have to hit the back of the caliper to get the pads off the rotor. Once you get the caliper free, the rotor should be loose and u just pull it off. Sometimes u need to hit the rotor from behind with a hammer, hit it equally around the rotor IE :hit it on top for a few then the bottom then the right side then the left you get what I mean. The bolts are torques, if you can change them to a regular bolt head I would and I did actually. If you need more help just ask I just did mine on a 2001 Cougar.

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no it is defently rear wheel

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That would depend on which model year , there have been rear wheel drive

and front wheel drive versions of the Mercury Cougar

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Ok take off front wheels. Then remove the 2 bolts in the caliper. Thenremove the caliper from the rotor. Then remove the pad from the caliper. Then take off the brake reservoir cap that way the fluid will make its way back to the reservor, make sure you keep it off until the end of the job. Now get a c clamp and compree the piston bacl into the caliper. then replace the pads. Then put the reservor cap back on. Then pump your breaks until they get hard.

Sincerly willie

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To change the oil pan gasket, remove the oil pan and replace the gasket and then put the pan back on.

carefully! Let engine cool a bit if driven, not too much as warm oil will drain better. Drain oil, remove oil filter, loosen oil filler cap on engine, Loosen all the bolts around the pan. Remove pan, gently scrape off old cork like gasket with a thin metal putty knife, DO NOT SCRATCH SURFACE!!! Go gently and slowly. Put new gasket on pan, install pan with gasket, tighten bolts (do not strip), install new oil filter, refill with new oil, check oil level on flat surface, add as needed. DO NOT OVER FILL! Start engine, and check for leaks.

(I AM NOT A MECHANIC, INTENDED FOR GUIDANCE PURPOSES ONLY, CONSULT OWNERS OR SHOP MANUALS FOR DETAILS, NOT LIABLE FOR PROPERTY DAMAGE OR BODILY INJURY. IF IN DOUBT, CONSULT CERTIFED PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC or DEALER)

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If it's a manual tranny then you just need to pull the drain plug near the bottom of the tranny. Next, tighten the plug back up and fill the tranny back up to the full level of the tranny tube. There is no filter on manual transmissions.

If it's an automatic, you need to buy a filter and gasket kit at a parts store for about $10 or so. Unbolt the tranny pan and let the old fluid drain out. Next, take the filter off and replace. Scrape off the old gasket that is on the tranny pan. Make sure it has a clean edge all the way around so that the new gasket will seal nicely and have no leaks. Put the new gasket on the pan and bolt the pan onto the tranny snug at about 9ft/lbs. Don't over tighten the pan to where the gasket is smooshed out which will cause the pan to leak out. After this is all done fill to the proper level with dexron III/Mercon tranny fluid. It will say in your owners manuel for the correct fluid type. It's simple to change but just a little time consuming.

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Replacing the front wheel bearings is not too dificult of a task on a 2000 merc. cougar. You must remove the whole nuckle, then take the nuckle and new bearings to a shop (one that does this kind of thing) and have the old bearings cut out, and the new ones pressed in (with a hydraulic press, don't try it your self, you will just damage your parts, hurt your self, and cost yourself lots of money). A typical shop will charge $40-$75 to press the new bearings in.

Now, for a much much better solution, I found a place on line (awesome place to do business with!!!) based out of sherman Texas (I'm near Chicago). They have the best prices and support too, support with helping you find the parts via diagrams and such. http://www.fordpartsonline.com

Call this company, order the whole nuckle with bearings already pressed in from factory. It will cost you a little bit more, but it is easier to work with, no down time while waiting for the shop to press bearings (usually 1-2 business days). Also, even though it may be a little more expensive for the part, It will be much better than replaceing your bearings then having to replace them again in 6 months becasue someone at the shop accidently put a tiny tiny divvet in the new bearings. (this happend to me, I replaced my front bearings in January, then replaced them again in August becasue the shop **** up)

,

jgreen1280@yahoo.com

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sorry, no diagrahm but it is located on the passenger side near the fuel tank. You will need to jack up or put the car on a lift to access it. It is behind a plastic cover. I believe it has 8mm or 10mm heads on the bolts. They are plastic clips? that retain the lines to the filter, you should get new ones with the new filter. The lines are under high pressure so be careful of fuel spray when removing them. You've got the right information for fuel injected engine. For carburated engine there is a screw in filter located on the carburator, take the air cleaner off. some models have a secondary filter located in the fuel supply line in the lower engine compartment area. For injected engines you also have filter screens as part of the injector - these can't be serviced - the whole unit needs to be replaced. Watch for that high pressure line. You can relieve the pressure but that's a whole operation by itself I just go with the first answer you got and duck!

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It is just on the other side of the radiator(towards the rear of the car). It is visible from the top and the bottom. Just look down/or up between the radiator and the engine. It is usually white in color.

It can only be removed from the bottom. Be sure to use jack stands.

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Diagnosis: Engine Won't Start or Run by Larry Carley c2007

WHEN AN ENGINE WON'T START Every engine requires four basic ingredients to start: sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So any time an engine fails to start, you can assume it lacks one of these four essential ingredients. But which one? To find you, you need to analyze the situation. If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem. Has the starter been acting up? (unusual noises, slow cranking, etc.). Is this the first time the engine has failed to crank or start, or has it happened before? Have the starter, battery or battery cables been replaced recently? Might be a defective part. Has the battery been running down? Might be a charging problem. Have there been any other electrical problems? The answers to these questions should shed some light on what might be causing the problem. If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's maintenance and repair history. STARTING YOUR DIAGNOSIS What happens when you attempt to start the engine? If nothing happens when you turn the key, "http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us20310.htm"to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested. If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there. A "http://www.aa1car.com/library/2002/cm10220.htm" that is working properly should produce a charging voltage of somewhere around 14 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage. The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature, the higher the charging voltage. The higher the temperature, the lower the charging voltage. The charging range for a typical alternator might be 13.9 to 14.4 volts at 80 degrees F, but increase to 14.9 to 15.8 volts at subzero temperatures. If the charging system is not putting out the required voltage, is it the alternator or the regulator? Full fielding the alternator to bypass the regulator should tell you if it is working correctly. Or, take the alternator to a parts store and have it bench tested. If the charging voltage goes up when the regulator is bypassed, the problem is the regulator (or the engine computer in the case of computer-regulated systems). If there is no change in output voltage, the alternator is the culprit. Many times one or more diodes in the alternator rectifier assembly will have failed, causing a drop in the unit's output. The alternator will still produce current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged. This type of failure will show up on an oscilloscope as one or more missing humps in the alternator waveform. Most charging system analyzers can detect this type of problem. ENGINE CRANKING PROBLEMS If the engine won't crank or cranks slowly when you attempt to start or "http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_safety.htm" the engine (and the battery is fully charged), you can focus your attention on the starter circuit. A quick way to diagnose cranking problems is to switch on the headlights and watch what happens when you attempt to start the engine. If the headlights go out, a poor battery cable connection may be strangling the flow of amps. All battery cable connections should be checked and cleaned along with the engine-to-chassis ground straps. Measuring the "http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm"across connections is a good way to find excessive resistance. A voltmeter check of the cable connections should show no more than 0.1 volt drop at any point, and no more than 0.4 volts for the entire starter circuit. A higher voltage drop would indicate excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or tightening. Slow cranking can also be caused by undersized battery cables. Some cheap replacement cables have small gauge wire encased in thick insulation. The cables look the same size as the originals on the outside, but inside there is not enough wire to handle the amps. If the headlights continue to shine brightly when you attempt to start the engine and nothing happens (no cranking), voltage is not reaching the starter. The problem here is likely an open or misadjusted park/neutral safety switch, a bad ignition switch, or a faulty starter relay or solenoid. Fuses and fusible links should also be checked because overloads caused by continuous cranking or jump starting may have blown one of these protective devices. If the starter or solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may not be enough amps to spin the starter. Or the "http://www.aa1car.com/library/1999/cm119948.htm" may be bad. A poor battery cable, solenoid or ground connection, or high resistance in the solenoid itself may be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid or relay is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to spin the starter motor, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid is needed, not a starter. Most engines need a cranking speed of 200 to 300 rpm to start, so if the starter is weak and can't crank the engine fast enough to build compression, the engine won't start. In some instances, a weak starter may crank the engine fast enough but prevent it from starting because it draws all the power from the battery and does not leave enough for the injectors or ignition system. If the lights dim and there is little or no cranking when you attempt to start the engine, the starter may be locked up, dragging or suffering from high internal resistance, worn brushes, shorts or opens in the windings or armature. A starter current draw test will tell you if the starter is pulling too many amps. A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines. An unusually high current draw and low free turning speed or cranking speed typically indicates a shorted armature, grounded armature or field coils, or excessive friction within the starter itself (dirty, worn or binding bearings or bushings, a bent armature shaft or contact between the armature and field coils). The magnets in permanent magnet starters can sometimes break or separate from the housing and drag against the armature. A starter that does not turn at all and draws a high current may have a ground in the terminal or field coils, or a frozen armature. On the other hand, the start may be fine but can't crank the engine because the engine is seized or hydrolocked. So before you condemn the starter, try turning the engine over by hand. Won't budge? Then the engine is probably locked up. A starter that won't spin at all and draws zero amps has an open field circuit, open armature coils, defective brushes or a defective solenoid. Low free turning speed combined with a low current draw indicates high internal resistance (bad connections, bad brushes, open field coils or armature windings). If the starter motor spins but fails to engage the flywheel, the cause may be a weak solenoid, defective starter drive or broken teeth on the flywheel. A starter drive that is on the verge of failure may engage briefly but then slip. Pull the starter and inspect the drive. It should turn freely in one direction but not in the other. A bad drive will turn freely in both directions or not at all. ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and "http://www.aa1car.com/library/compression.htm". Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or "http://www.aa1car.com/library/crank_sensors.htm". A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit. Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness. If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced. If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination. ENGINE CRANKS AND HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT START If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a "http://www.aa1car.com/library/fuel_pump_diagnose.htm". On an older engine with a "http://www.aa1car.com/library/carburetor.htm", pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a "http://www.aa1car.com/library/fuel_pump_mechanical.htm", stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter. On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank. There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, "http://www.aa1car.com/library/us10325.htm"might be causing the problem. On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning. Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive "http://www.aa1car.com/library/vacleak.htm"could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking. ENGINE HAS FUEL AND SPARK BUT WILL NOT START An engine that has fuel and spark, no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is "http://www.aa1car.com/library/compression.htm" . If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a "http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar594.htm" would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons). Overhead cams can also bind and break if the head warps due to severe overheating, or the cam bearings are starved for lubrication. A cam seizure may occur during a subzero cold start if the oil in the crankcase is too thick and is slow to reach the cam (a good reason for using 5W-20 or 5W-30 for winter driving). High rpm cam failure can occur if the oil level is low or the oil is long overdue for a change. With high mileage pushrod engines, the timing chain may have broken or slipped. Either type of problem can be diagnosed by doing a compression check and/or removing a valve cover and watching for valve movement when the engine is cranked. A "http://www.aa1car.com/library/gasket_failure.htm" may prevent an engine from starting if the engine is a four cylinder with two dead cylinders. But most six or eight cylinder engines will sputter to life and run roughly even with a blown gasket. The gasket can, however, allow coolant to leak into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine. http://www.aa1car.com/library/us1296.htm

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There are several kinds of compressors--reciprocating, screw, centrifugal. We'll use a reciprocating compressor in this example. It's got a piston moving back and forth in a cylinder to compress the air. (It's like a car engine, and you can get a kit to turn an old Volkswagen engine into a compressor.) This assembly is called a stage. The cheapest compressors are single-stage units--they have one piston and cylinder. The air from the atmosphere is sucked into the assembly, compressed then sent to the tank. Next come two-stage compressors, which have a low-pressure stage and a high-pressure stage. The air from the first stage is compressed again by the second stage, which gives more pressure with less stress on the unit. It's easier on the compressor to take air from 2 atmospheres to 4 than it is to go from 1 atmosphere to 4. A three-stage compressor takes this doubly compressed air and compresses it again, and a four-stage compressor has a fourth compression step. Most of the people who buy three-stage compressors fill diving tanks with them--you need to be able to make 5000 psi to fill a diving tank, and three-stage compressors are good for that.

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manual or electric? manual your car may have a decorative panel on the door across from the mirror if it is mounted to the side near the glass find the screw and remove it , if no screw look for a screw cover and remove that. DONT just pull on the panel look for the screw! there will be 3 nuts underneath remove them and the mirror will fall out. electric is the same however you will have to remove the kick plate to unplug the mirror wires. mirror bolted to the door itself and not actually near the window : you will have to remove the door panel and reach up to the mirror and remove the 2 nuts roughly a 10mm nut in size. this will be a blind feel for it . sorry if this seems generic but it has been awhile since i did either i believe yours is similar to the first set of directions i gave

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I just started and ran a 79 T-Bird for an hour and fifteen minutes with gas that was last put in in (I am not making this up) April of 2004.

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it is a small rectangular-shaped switch unit located in a clip on a bracket to the right of the steering coulumn

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1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Using a 3/8" drive, release tension on the tensioner and slip the belt off of an accessory.

3. Loosen the passenger side front wheel lug nuts, then raise front of vehicle and remove wheel.

4. Reinstall two adjacent lug nuts onto the brake rotor and using a prybar on the lugnuts and a socket with a breaker bar, loosen and remove the nut from the splined half shaft(this nut supposedly looses its torque ability and needs to be replaced after being loosened).

5. Remove the Stabilizer bar link. This will require two wrenches, one placed near the rubber seal area. (This step caused me a 3-day delay as I had to order a new one when the nut broke off with the bolt intake)

6. Remove the steering knuckle pinch bolt and separate the ball joint from the "A"-shaped suspension component with the appropriate tool or prybar.

7. Remove the "Y"-shaped exhaust pipe from underneath the vehicle. Spraying a lubricant on the 6 studs and nuts will aid the removal of these nuts. (Stripping of these threads is easily done with the galling that can happen from the hot conditions it has undergone. This accounts to adding another 3 days to my repair.If possible tighten the nut 1/8 of a turn before removing to keep from pulling rust into threads)

8. Remove the half shaft after extracting it from the steering nuckle. (It may be just as easy to remove the nuckle prior to removal of the half shaft, even though this requires removing the ABS sensor, brake caliper, and rotor.) A slide hammer can assist on freeing the half shaft from the other half shaft.

9. Loosen the 5 nuts needed to remove the half shaft that goes into the transmission. Apparently this half shaft is balanced from the factory and should be reinstalled in the same allignment, so mark the transaxle and the half shaft to make this possible. Remove the half shaft.

10. There are 3 electrical connections to the alternator: a 3-pin connector that can be removed by slipping off the clip, a 1-pin connector that is removed by gently prying the plastic clip portion up, and a battery cable sized cable that attaches with a nut that can be removed with a 3/16" socket.

11. There are now 4 bolts that need to be loosened before the alternator can be removed. Three of the bolts are easily reached, while the 4th is not visible and will have to be felt for. A 13mm socket will be needed to remove these bolts. The exhaust manifold and the attached O2 sensor blocks access to the hidden bolt, and removal of the manifold has its own set of hidden bolts which makes removal of the manifold to access the alternator bolt unfeasible.

12. Installation is the reverse of the above, but it is highly recommended that you replace the O2 sensor that is now exposed. It uses a square connector, not a round one like the more accessible "catalyst monitor" sensors. This vehicle has a whopping 4 sensors distributed over 2 banks. If you choose to replace this sensor, a tip on removing the electrical connector: find a 3-inch or so 3/16" diameter or less piece of metal(I used a tap) and using one hand to feel for the access hole which will point to the rear of the vehicle, use the other hand with the metal piece to insert into the hole and releasing the clip, pull on the connector to disconect the heated oxygen sensor. Alternative method This task can also be accomplished WITHOUT removing the drive shafts.

Jack the car up as high as possible and support with jack stands.

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the passenger side wheel & inner fender well covers

3. Remove the exhaust Y-pipe. Soak the seven nuts with penetrating lubricant.

4. Remove the serpentine belt from the alternator.

5. Unbolt the upper roll bar mounting point from the strut.

6. Unbolt the steering joint & press out of the steering arm.

At this point you should be able to see the bottom portion of the alternator.

7. From under the car you should see a bracket that supports the intemediate shaft. Unbolt the two nuts that connect the intermediate shaft bearing to the bracket.

8. Unbolt the three bolts that hold the bracket to the engine. Then remove the bracket. You now have enough room to get to the alternator bolts.

9. Use a 13mm socket with a universal joint on the end of a long extension to get to the upper alternator bolt. I was able to reach around into the wheel well with my right hand up to the top of the alternator bolt to help guide the socket onto the bolt.

10. The bottom bolt is easy to get to. But the universal makes it a little easier, because the Intermediate shaft is still there.

11. The rear alternator bracket is removed with a 10mm socket.

12. Once the bolts are out you make need to pry the alternator out of the bottom of its mount.

13. Once loose, pivot the alternator on its pulley down towards the control arm. If you are having problems bringing the alternator down past the rubber boot, just rotate the brake disk and it will walk the alternator out. You will have easy access to the electrical connections.

Replace with new alternator and reverse the process.

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There is a tensioner located towards the front of the engine. You'll need a fairly long handle ratchet, a breaker bar preferred. In any event you'll have to determine what on your model has to grab a hold of, release the tension and slide the belt off of which ever pulley is close. Then relaese the tension SLOWLY!!! there is a lot of tension on it and it could snap out of your hand. then reverse the process only retract the tensioner at the end when your ready to put the belt on your last pulley.

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Put an 18mm wrench on the lower tensioner belt and rotate CCW to loosen the tension. Remove the belt from around the alternator pulley, and slowly release the tensioner. Unwrap the belt from all the pulleys and install the new belt following the belt diagram located near the radiator support. ALWAYS make sure the grooved side of the belt is contacting the grooved pulleys, and the smooth side of the belt is contacting the smooth pulleys (Idler pulleys). Groove to Groove -- Smooth to Smooth

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Torque Sequence 1993 3.8 Cougar; Looking at Engine from front of car the lower bolts are 7 3 1 5 upper bolts are 8 4 2 6. Step 1; Torque in Sequence to 37 FT./ LBS Step 2;Torque in Seq. To 45 FT./LBS. Step 3; Torque in Seq. To 52 FT,/LBS. Step4; Torque in Seq. To 59 FT./LBS. Step 5; Back off all bolts in Torque Sequence 2-3 turns. Step 6; Retorque all Bolts in Sequence 11-18 FT/LBS. Step7; Rotate Long Bolts 85-105 Degrees, Short Bolts 65-85 Degrees in Sequence. Recheck final Torque in Sequence. When replacing Head Gasket Besure To Replace all Head Bolts. Hope I Have Helped -u-. "Odie" OdiebuiltMC@aol.com