In 2002

The sound is called moosing. It's usually an indication that either the IAC valve (Idle Air Control) valve or a sensor is going bad.

with the car boosted and running remove negative cable if it stalls it's your alternater if not check out battery cables p.s loosen cable before starting.

You can view the 2000 Mercury Cougar owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( the instrumentation section explains the different warning lights with drawings )

According to my Chilton's Auto Repair Manual :

( A 1991 Mercury Cougar has a 19.0 U.S. gallon gas tank )

Bass

first you have to determine if it is oil or fuel if it's oil then do a compression test if it has low compression squirt oil down the cylinder and if it increases then you got leaking rings if that checks out ok then do a cylinder leakage test that way you can tell if it is exhaust intake valve problems

I used the Napa brand tool, #3355 which cost about $12.00. I will also needed a #50 Torx bit to remove the caliper assy. update- found Napa tool #3163 a better fit, matches the 3/4 inch cube description..

You will need a special tool (3/4 inch cube that snaps on to ratchet wrench) to turn in the pistons on the rear calipers.

According to my Chilton's Auto Repair Manual :

With engine oil filter change :

( 5.0 US. quarts for all factory available engine sizes )

According to my Chilton"s Auto Repair Manual :

For a 1991 Mercury Cougar ( 19.0 US. gallons )

The 2000 Mercury Cougar V6 engine takes a ( BCI Group Size 40 R ) battery The battery dimensions are : Length ( 10.90 inches / 277 mm ) Width ( 6.42 inches / 174 mm ) Height ( 6.88 inches / 175 mm )

your float is stuck or you have a short in the hot wire!

There are two of them, which one? Instrument cluster - parking brake on or low brake fluid Overhead console - brake pads need to be replaced.

The emergency flashers for the 1997 Mercury Cougar are on top of the steering column behind the wheel.

Brake caliper? CALIPER MOUNT BRACKET!!

No

Disconnect the - battery cable

Raise and support the vehicle

Remove the wiring at the top of starter

Remove starter mounting bolts

Remove starter

This is a fairly easy job and waterpumps are cheap.

Drain the radiator by opening the petcock on the bottom of the radiator. In the event that your radiator was replaced previously without one, just pull off the lower radiator hose and drain it that way. The hose will really hang onto the neck so just work it with channel locks and a little elbow grease and be prepared to get wet. I suggest you catch the coolant and return it to a recycling center as it is really dangerous stuff.

Next, remove the radiator fan by using a socket on the four bolts. I usually just break them loose before I remove the serpentine (drive) belt. The tension from the belt really helps hold the fan from spinning when you are removing the bolts.

To remove the serpentine belt, take a 1/2" drive breaker bar and insert it into the square cutout on the alternator bracket and pull back. This releases the tensioner and you can pull the belt off. Keep in mind that the fan pulley is two peices so pay attention.

You do NOT need to remove the radiator but I strongly suggest you take a piece of cardboard and put it up against the radiator in case you slip with something. I know I have poked a couple holes in radiator causing me to break my promise not to cuss.

Now remove the bolts that hold the water pump on. Look at the new pump and determine where the bolt holes are located and orient yourself with the existing pump. Even after all the bolts are out you will swear that it is still bolted. They are usually really stuck so you have to give it a rap or two. I would not try to pry it off because it can damage the faces.

Once it is off take the time to clean the surface to remove old gasket material or after all your hard work, it will leak. I use a very sharp wood chisel and a straight edge razor blade. The time you spent on this part is worthwhile.

Use Blue RTV, nothing else. Coat the faces of the new water pump with a thin coat of Blue RTV. Set aside and use a small wire or brass brush to clean the bolts. Then coat each with a light coat of RTV. Some of them go into the waterjacket so just do them all. Back to the pump, let it skim for 15 minutes and don't rush it. Next, stick the gasket to the water pump faces and coat again with Blue RTV. Let skim 15 minutes, no less.

Put it back together. Don't forget to close the radiator petcock valve. Flush the system if it is nasty.

Fill radiator with about a gallon and a half of new coolant and run with the radiator cap off until you see good circulation. You won't see any until the thermostat opens which can take upto 15 minutes. Put your heater on as hot as it will go and turn the fan on high. This prevents vapor locks in the heater hoses.

Hope this helps. Top it off and take it for a test cruise.

VBd

On a 1996 Mercury Cougar ( 3.8 litre V6 and 4.6 litre V8 engines )

Bank 1 is the passenger side of the engine

Sensor 2 is in the exhaust AFTER the exhaust has passed through the catalytic converter ( downstream sensor , also called catalyst monitor )

On a 1992 Mercury Cougar ( which is OBD I , EEC IV )

There should be an EEC TEST connection in the engine compartment

it all depends on where it is leaking.

passenger side panel, above left knee

It's possible that your fuel pump is getting ready to quit. It's working hard to push fuel to the engine and the circuit is overheating. Might be doing the same thing with a partially plugged fuel filter. Have both checked.

It means your engine coolant (i.e. antifreeze) is low.

Well if they dont work at all i would look undernear your dash near the pedals and check your fuses cuz most the time its just a blown fuze but it might be something else i dont know