I believe that's the only way, abs systems are expensive, you can take one out of junkyard version of your car for probably 10 bucks.
It's on top of the engine near the windshield and looks like a small flying saucer.
FIRST LOOK ON LINE WHAT A 99 FORD TAURUS EGR VALVE LOOKS LIKE WILL HELP ALOT, BUT IT IS ON THE TOP AND REAR OF THE MANIFOLD BY THE FIREWALL IN THE MIDDLE, HELD ON BY TWO #10MM BOLTS AND A STEEL TUBE ASSY THAT GOES TO THE EXHAUST PIPE, REAL QUICK TO REMOVE,NOTE RUN MOTOR TO WARM UP EXHAUST PIPE TO MAKE THE STEEL TUBE HEX NUT EASY TO REMOVE
Follow the green plastic vacuum line from the EGR valve on your engine to a small black cplastic item, usually on the intake manifold. This will usually have one black and one green hard plastic vacuum line going to it. THIS is your solenoid.egr locationUnderneath the hood on the back wall it looks like a spinning top or a little pot with a lid. The EGR switch is right next to it. The back of the engine is the sparks plugs and it is above that on the back wall. I have yet to get it fixed. Charlotte Vincent
IT IS LOCATED ON INTAKEMANIFOLD
I checked Autozone.com and they didnt have the location. BUT, an EGR valve is normally attached to the intake manifold with a hose/tube connecting it to the exhaust manifold. It seems it would also be attached to the solenoid that you replaced.
Hey Michelle==It really depends on what kind of car but probably the clutch and brake pedals are binding where they pivot. and the accelerator is binding in the cable. Sometimes you have to completely remove them to properly lubricate them and replace the acc cable. GoodluckJoe losing presure in the rx-7 the clutch eases down to the floor Which pedal? If gas, I would lean toward a throttle bore cleaning.
In my Experience the egr value is located on top of the intake near the tpi unit.
MY first guess would b a ground problem-when U push the horn pad ,U are appling a ground-& there is a small ground clip on the steering coupler.IF te fuses are good. the air bag clock spring in the stearing coloum is open I had the same problem. check cruise control disconnect switch for power located on brake master cylinder. mine was burnt along with connecting wiring. new switch with wiring about $20. some model years have a recall currently. Most steering columns have a part known as a clock spring. This component has the electrical contacts which power the horn, cruise control and on some models... other electrical items. The part is generally between $50 and $100 from a dealer, but is difficult to replace due to the air bag and wheel having to be removed. I can't guarantee that's what is wrong, but it is the best guess... It seems the Windstar and Aerostars ar bad for this.
in the valve cover on the passenger side It is on top of metal intake, very close to throtle body. It is like 6" from a vacuum line coming from brake booster to the intake. on the intake, it is between the air idle control valve and the egr valve. u will see or feel the rubber hose sticking out of the rear of intake, the pcv valve is threaded into intake. the rubber hose is attached to it. according to manual, if u take off hose with car running, and there is a vacuum present, then valve is working.
If you start your villager and the knocking is at first but then quits its probably hla(hydrualic lash adjusters wich is normal!} if it persist it could still be the same thing but your oil pump could be lacking pressure.(but that would be more of a Kirby sewing machine sound.) other knocking and pinging noise could be your timing, or lack of fuel, maybe fuel filter, spark plugs, injecters, distributer cap, rotor,i would lean more towards timing thoughAnswerHave you tried using a higher octane rated fuel? If not, try using "premium" rather than "regular" gasoline. If this doesn't help, take it in for repair. AnswerOwner Letter
Serial Number: 12345678901234567 96M89
Mr. John Sample 123 Main Street Anywhere, USA 12345
Ford Motor Company is providing a no-charge Service Program, Number 96M89, to owners of certain 1995 and 1996 Villagers.
Reason For This Program Ford Motor Company has learned through reports from dealers and customers and follow-up studies that engines in some Villagers may develop an abnormal engine noise. The noise is called "piston slap" and sounds like loud knocking when the engine is cold and just started. It is an annoyance sound and may go away as the engine warms.
If your Villager's engine develops the noise condition it will not cause any problem in the starting or operation of the engine. It is an annoying engine noise condition. We assure you that you can continue to drive your Villager until a service appointment can be scheduled with your dealer at your convenience.
What We Will Do Ford is providing additional warranty coverage for this condition only. If your Villager's engine should experience this condition, your dealer will verify the condition according to the instructions provided by Ford and, if necessary, replace the engine at no cost to you.
The no charge coverage for this condition is available for 7-years from the vehicle's warranty start date or for 100,000 miles of service, whichever comes first and is automatically transferred to all subsequent owners at no charge. This coverage extends the warranty more than twice the length of the original coverage. All other engine or vehicle concerns have the bumper-to-bumper warranty coverage (3 years/36,000 miles, whichever comes first).
Limited Supply Of Parts Currently there is a shortage of parts for this service, but we are working diligently to resolve the shortage. Ford requests your patience and understanding should your Villager's engine experience this noise condition and parts are not immediately available to perform the repair.
What You Should Do PLEASE KEEP THIS LETTER. If your Villager should exhibit the condition described above within the 7 years or 100,000 miles warranty extension, contact your dealer. Show the dealer this letter. The dealer will replace your Villager's engine after verification of the condition. If you should lose this letter, your dealer will still honor the provisions of this engine noise condition warranty extension.
Changed Address Or Sold The Villager Please fill out the enclosed prepaid postcard and mail it to us if you have changed your address or sold the Villager.
We are taking this action as part of our ongoing efforts to maintain owner confidence in our products. We hope this program will confirm your continued satisfaction with your Ford-built product.
My 1994 Mercury Villager doesv that too. but over the last year it has been getting worse and im almost positive its the oil pump because i can hear the oil pump making clicking noises. then again the engine does have 229,000 on it. still running strong though! their pretty good engines as long as you take good care of them...
To remove the igniton lock, remove the steering wheel and turn signal switch housing. From there you will be able to see the lock which holds the ignition lock into place. slide a screwdriver into the slot and apply pressure. The igntion lock can then be pulled out.
TAke it to the dealer and they have a chart to check out the function of the air bag. As long as the light is flashing, it will not work. A flashing airbag light can indicate that the airbag is in diagnostic mode. It can be put into this mode by manually pressing the switch in the driver's door, that controls the interior lights (I believe the technician must press it 5 times in 7 seconds or something to that effect). I suspect however that if your door is poorly fitted, it might cause this switch to be activated in a similar way, therefore inadvertently causing the airbag to go into a diagnostic mode. I found this re-set sequence on another site and it worked for me. I think it said something about some type of power surge kicking the airbag into diagnostic mode. This sequence puts it back into normal mode and the flashing stops: 1) Open the driver's side door. 2) Put the key in the ignition and turn to ON (but don't start the vehicle) 3) Within 7 seconds of turning the key to ON, push the driver's side door switch button at least 5 times. 4) The Air Bag light should go solid...give it at least 7 seconds, and it should begin to blink a 3 second, 2 second on/off pattern. 5) Turn ignition to OFF and remove key. 6) Start vehicle, and wait for the Air Bag light to turn off to verify that it worked.
It is not cost-effective to attempt to replace just the CV joints. Rebuilt CV shafts are available for as little as $60.
You see that knob you turn to run the blower? That's it.
the alternator is removed from below and there is three bolts (10 mm socket) that need removed. one of these bolts is on the other side of alternator. use a small mirror to see this bolt. Don't forget to disconnect battery!!!
You take the car to your ford dealer, this is the only way to reset the air bag light
I found a more complete answer on another page.
You would think that fixing air bag problems was some sort of trade secret...VERY FEW people will give you information on them. I checked my local parts stores for advice (NAPA, AutoZone, Advance, O'Rielly) The common answer is "take it to a dealer" because people are afraid of setting off the airbag. Unless you short the system out just right, or hit a sensor hard. You should be safe. Just take the common precautions of disconnecting the battery...which can lead to a code 52!
If you have ever ran your trucks battery down, or unhooked the battery to work on something, you might have gotten a code 52 on your airbag light. I couldn't tell you what years this works for, but I know it worked great for my 95 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0L with Auto trans. I couldn't find this info anywhere! So now I am sharing it with you! By the way...OBDII scanners cannot clear ABS or Air Bag issues. Totally separate systems!
I started with a code 12 (loss of power to the air bag system) which turned out to be a blown 10amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood. After replacing the fuse, I had worked on several other things inside with the doors open for hours and ran the battery down with the dome lamp. I then got a code 52 (loss of power to the secondary power source for the airbag which is a capacitor) I have read in several places that this is a very common problem with Ford after a loss of battery power. The solution was to "go to the dealer to have them reset it" Who wants to pay for an expensive dealer fix when you can do it yourself easily.
HERE IS HOW YOU DO IT:
Quoted from Mitchell (my observations after each step)
CLEARING CODES1. Only intermittent codes and codes that diagnostic monitor recognizes as being repaired may be cleared from memory. To clear codes, cycle ignition OFF to ON. Observe AIR BAG warning light. AIR BAG warning light will illuminate for 4-8 seconds, and flash fault code.
(Comment) Loosely translated - If you don't have the problem fixed, this wont work. Code 52 should clear with this!
2. Locate air bag diagnostic 2-pin connector.
(Comment) This was a fun one. According to the air bag wiring diagram that I also got from Mitchell, the Airbag Diagnostic Connector is located "Right side of Instrument Panel". The only thing I found immediately to the right of the I/P (between the stereo and Instrument panel) was a black computer with 4 connectors which is NOT what I was looking for. I finally found a blog that mentioned the computer for the air bag computer was behind the right side kick panel. Sure enough....there it was. Attached to the side of the diagnostic computer was a two prong diagnostic connector.
3. Connect a jumper wire between diagnostic connector terminals. Leave jumper wire connected until diagnostic monitor tone sounds (about 5 seconds). Disconnect jumper wire. Fault code is cleared.
(Comment) After doing this, I heard the loud tone and it immediately gave a different code, but I turned the key to the OFF position and then back ON after disconnecting the jumper.....NO MORE LIGHT!!!
Here's an additional variation: 96 Mazda B-4000 (aka Ford Ranger) has a pretty blue air bag module behind the right side kick plate. It does not have the ywo pin diagnostic connector (and so far have not found one between the I/P and stereo). It is suggested to go through the 128 or 256 key cycles (on and off) to reset the module and get rid of the Code 52.
Something else we found in the course of this investigation was that there is an airbag / alternator fuse in the fuse panel on the left face of the dashboard (facing drivers door), on our B-4000 position 15 with a 7.5 A fuse. The 10 amp fuse is in the black fuse and relay box under the hood (drivers side close to fire wall) the clip to release is facing the firewall.
We had another problem with a corroded wire going from the module to the drivers side crash sensor. I replaced those wires and have not had a repeat of that problem.
they are behind the panel on the passenger side of the console on the back of the panel it shows the # 5 and says Igni..... when the fuse blows it affects the seat belts the speedometer and odometer and the tac at least on mine it does and I am trying to gind out why mine blows fuses all the time Those seatbelts are also called passive restraints and some of the saturns have their own fuse for those. They will blow fuses if starting to seize up. They need to be lubed as part of an ongoing maintenance with something like wd40. The fuse for the seatbelt motors is located on the interior fuse panel on the fuse marked PREST. That fuse protects nothing else on the car. And no other fuse but that one is for the automatic belts. All 1991-1994's are this way. 1995+ went to fixed seatbelts.
probably loose vacuum hose or maybe sticking 'accel' button
Try cleaning grime from the mass air flow sensor.
Standard brake removal and installation.
Tools required: Jack and jack stands Tire iron Socket set with 'Torx' or 'star-drive' bits. Screwdrivers C-Clamp (or something to push the caliper back in) band-aids and neosporin.
Procedure overview: Remove cap from brake fluid reservoir, block rear tires, loosen (but don't remove) lug nuts, jack up the car and place jack stands for safety (you don't want 3,000+ lbs. of van landing on you). Remove lug nuts and wheels. Remove the caliper mounting bolts and detach the caliper from the steering knuckle. Use C-clamp to push the piston into the caliper. Use a screwdriver to remove the old pads. Installation is the reverse of removal. When done, step on the brake pedal a few times, and check brake fluid level, filling as necessary.
Hey Jill=They have to be removed with a scanner after '96. Auto zone can do this free. GoodluckJoe
Just had this problem today, Not sure if it will always work, but my 97 Villager had a knock sensor code and a TPS code. I disconected the battery for about 20 min. and then reconected it. I drove the vehicle for about 30 miles and then took it in for an emission test. Passed with flying colors and the OBD monitors tested fine. Again it may not work for you but it worked for me. A mechanic friend told me to do that.
If you mean the inertia reset switch, it's in the driver side kick panel.
Can anyone tell me how to perhaps fixed a stretched cable until I can afford to put a new one in it? Do I have to make adjustments at both ends? I've attempted to take the steering column apart before, but it got very complicated. Also, is there an easy way to disable the air-bag (steering wheel mounted) while I work on the cable? Please help. Steven
I would suggest replacing the range switch, first of all, as well as the shifter cable if you think it is suspect, and perhaps the steering column and instrument cluster as well. It sound like you have multiple issues both at the transmission and in the column.
Directly behind the intake manifold.
The thermostat is inside the housing on the front of the engine. The housing attaches to the front of the transfer tube assembly. It is somewhat difficult to get access to with removing of a number of things. These housing use no gaskets and must be sealed with silicone.
CAUTIONS: 1993 and 1994-96 timing belts are non-interchangeable. 1993 belt design was changed from a square or trapezoid type to a half circle or round type for 1994-96, This design extends service life of timing belt from 60,000 miles to 105,000 miles. Failure to install correct timing belt may result in a "whining" noise from engine compartment after replacement. Do not interchange individual components (timing belts, sprockets or tensioner spring assembles) between 1993 and 1994-96 model vehicles. These parts are interchangeable as a set only.
Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain coolant. Remove accessory drive belts. Remove A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley (tensioner) bolts, then idler pulley (tensioner). Remove upper radiator hose bracket bolt. Loosen two upper radiator hose clamps, then remove upper hose and bracket. Remove coolant bypass hose between thermostat housing and intake manifold coolant outlet. Disconnect main wiring harness from upper front cover (timing belt) cover, then remove eight upper timing belt cover bolts, then the upper cover, Fig. 20. Raise and support vehicle. Remove right front wheel and tire assembly and splash shield. Use strap wrench tool No. D85L-6000-A, or equivalent, to hold water pump pulley while removing water pump pulley bolts. Remove water pump pulley from water pump. Remove crankshaft pulley. Remove five lower timing belt cover attaching bolts and the cover. Rotate crankshaft in a clockwise direction to align crankshaft and camshaft sprocket timing marks, Fig. 21. If timing belt is to be reused, mark direction of rotation. Loosen timing belt tensioner nut, then remove timing belt. CAUTION: With timing belt removed, avoid turning camshaft or crankshaft. If movement is required, exercise extreme caution to avoid valve damage caused by piston contact.
Using suitable Allen wrench, turn timing belt tensioner clockwise until timing belt tensioner spring is fully extended, then temporarily torque timing belt tensioner nut to 32-43 ft. lbs. Install timing belt. If new belt, ensure white lines on belt align with seal plate (rear timing belt cover) timing marks and timing belt arrow is pointing away from engine block. If reusing timing belt, ensure removal directional arrow is pointing in correct direction. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between left and right camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between lefthand camshaft sprocket and crankshaft timing belt sprocket. While holding timing belt tensioner pulley in position with suitable hex wrench, loosen tensioner nut. Allow timing belt tensioner to tension belt. Using suitable hex wrench, turn timing belt tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise, then torque timing belt tensioner nut to 32-43 ft. lbs. Rotate crankshaft clockwise twice and align No. 1 piston to compression stroke TDC. Apply 22 lbs. of force on timing belt between righthand camshaft sprocket and timing belt tensioner. Using suitable hex wrench, hold timing belt tensioner, then loosen tensioner nut and adjust timing belt as follows: Install suitable 0.0138 inch and .5 inch wide feeler gauge between timing belt tensioner, Fig. 22. Installing Feeler Gauge Between Timing Belt & Tensioner
Turn crankshaft clockwise to position feeler gauge between timing belt tensioner and timing belt. Torque timing belt tensioner nut to 32-43 ft. lbs. Turn crankshaft clockwise to remove feeler gauge. Rotate crankshaft sprocket clockwise twice and align No. 1 piston to TDC compression stroke. Apply 22 lbs. of force on timing belt between right and lefthand crankshaft sprockets. Using suitable tool, measure timing belt deflection, 0.51-0.59 inch should be indicated. If not as indicated, repeat step 9. If deflection is still not as indicated, belt may be stretched and have to be replaced. Install lower engine front (timing belt) cover. Install crankshaft and water pump pulley. Install righthand splash shield and wheel assembly. Lower vehicle and install upper timing cover. Connect main wiring harness to upper timing belt cover. Install coolant bypass hose between thermostat housing and intake manifold coolant outlet. Install upper radiator hose, then upper radiator hose bracket. Install A/C compressor drive belt tensioner, then install and adjust accessory drive belts. Check and adjust ignition timing as required.
The bulb for a 1995 Villager is a 2040-USA, a specialty, black tip halogen. I suspect the 1997 is the same. donsbulbs.com I haven't figure out where to get them yet. The Mercury villager uses four (4) 2040 bulbs. If you are in Canada you can get them at Canadian Tire stores at a cost of about 8.99 per bulb. If you are in the USA or to order online you can go to a NAPA auto parts store or napaonline.com. The cost there is about $12.99 per bulb. the bulbs last on average 500 hours
2000 Villager motor mount is located on the cross member dead center front of the vehicle. 2 bolts attached to the cross member pull out towards the alternator as well as the bolt through the mount itself. 17mm if I remember correctly.
please don't flush the trnasmission oil it can blow your transmission resulting in bog loss. Just change the oil is beeter open the transmission oil bolt underneath the engine and wait for 15 minutes so that all the oil can come out. After putting in bolt pour the new transmission oil.
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