This is a fantastic question and it took some research for me to get the truth about the Fleur De Lis. I wanted to know the answer myself as I had often wondered about that very thing. Here is the answer I found.
Over the years, the Corvette has gone through many design changes; some subtle, some not so subtle. The Corvette's symbolic crossed flags emblem has also seen its fair number of changes. If you've taken a close look at the emblem over the five generations of Corvette, you'll notice that even though the design has changed dramatically from time to time, a few design cues remain. These include some form of a checkered flag and a bow-tie emblem. From time to time, a strange, maple leaf type of insignia, called a "fleur-de-lis" also shows up from time to time in the emblem. So what does all this mean and how did it get started? The original Corvette logo was designed by Robert Bartholomew, an interior designer at Chevrolet in 1953. This emblem was destined to appear on the 1953 Corvette prototype which was introduced to the public for the first time at New York's Waldorf-Astoria hotel in January of 1953. It had crossing staffs with the checkered flag on the right hand side, and the American flag on the left hand side. However, four days before the Corvette was to go on display at the show, Chevrolet management decided that it should be redesigned. The problem with the proposed emblem was that it included the American flag which is illegal to use on a commerical product. Right before the show, redesigned emblems were attached to the front hood and steering wheel of the Corvette. The new emblem contained the checkered flag on the right side as well as the white racing flag, red Chevrolet bow-tie symbol and a fleur-de-lis. Where did the fleur-de-lis come from? At the time, Chevrolet was conducting research on various emblem designs for the 1953 and 1954 passenger cars. They looked at the Louis Chevrolet family history in an attempt to discover a crest or some type of heraldry that they could utilize. Unfortunately, they came up empty, but they did realize that Chevrolet is a French name and the fleur-de-lis (flower of the lily) is a French symbol meaning peace and purity. They decided to use the fleur-de-lis along with the famous blue Chevrolet bow tie on a new flag which replaced the American flag on the Corvette. When the 1953 Corvette first appeared to the public at the Waldorf Historia Hotel, the redesigned emblems were in place. However, this emblem was temporary and used only for press photography at the show. A new emblem was designed prior to the 1953 Corvette going into production. If you're wondering what ever happened to the original 1953 Corvette emblem by Robert Bartholemew, it's currently on display at the National Corvette Museum!
If all you want to do is change a bulb, you pull the license plate off to gain access to the wiring harness. After you twist the harness counter clockwise to loosen the harness, let it drop down and access it to change the bulb from underneath the car.
the only way i know of is to pull the upper plentum mabely with swivel sockets and luck you could pull one set of the intake runners
there is no timing belt it has a timing chain
On my 86 it's directly behind the padded dash.
There are two modules.
One is the "break in" alarm that honks the horn, which is taped to the wiring harness above the passenger foot well light.
The VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) module that prevents the engine from starting is located behind the large padded section with "CORVETTE" on it on the passenger side of the dashboard.
== 1-to-4 Mode (aka Skip-Shift)
== Simply disconnecting the plug from the sending unit (on the transmission) will disable the "CAGS" (Computer Aided Gear Selection). However, disconnecting the wire may cause an error code from the computer.
Most of the Corvette parts houses (do a WEB search for Corvette parts) sell a kit that installs between the sending unit and the vehicle harness that seals and protects the plugs from dirt and moisture. It will also eliminate the possibility of error codes being generated. It costs approximately $20 USD and takes about ten minutes to install from underneath the car.
NOTICE: The dash indicator for 1-4 Shift will STILLilluminate as usual.
Please help....original radio not cutting it anymore
Heater core is located inside the H/AC "suitcase". It can be a chore, but you're best bet is to remove the 'suitcase' and remove the heater core once the suitcase is on the ground.
Fix your ABS system. Pull codes from your computer as a start. Then go from there.
Disconnect the negativ battery cable whenever working with anything electrical on a car. Then take the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. Then remove the dist and make sure the new rotor is pointing the EXACT way the old one was when the dist is fully installled in the oil pump. Then the timing will have to be set with a light. To do this every car is different and you need a manual to do this. On the rotor simply remove the screws and remove the rotor./
Disconnect the battery negative cable.Mark each distributor wire before you disconnect them- it makes it alot easier to hook back up.. If youn have the cover plate still on over the distributor remove it.With a felt pen mark on the plenum and distributor side by side-this is your timing mark-it's crude but with out a light it will work.My distributor was red so the felt pen mark showed up. You might have to use the base of the distributor to get the mark.Next mark the position of the rotor. It must go back into the original postion-if your are close it will only go in one way the oil pump pickup is on the botton and these two must mesh for the distributor to go all the way down.It will only go down all the way 2 ways the right way and 180 degrees out.Remove all the connectors on the side of the distributor, loosen off the bolt on the passenger side, lift up the distributor and unplug the 4-way connector on the back. Change the rotor by removeing the two screws.If your this far-I'm sure you figured that part out.
From underneath, remove five underbody cover screws. Remove cover. Pull brake cooling tube off where is attaches to the front bumper. Push the tube to the side so you can get to the light fixture better. The turn signal bulb mounts in the bottom of the fixture. There is a clip on the bulb socket. Squeeze the clip and turn the socket counter clockwise. The wire is long enough to drop the socket out the brake cooler inlet hole in the bumper ... then you can go to the front of the car. Just pull the old bulb straigt out of the socket and push the new one into place. Its a good idea to put a little electrical grease on the contacts before inserting the new bulb. Now test that its working correctly. Go back underneath and put everything back together.
I once had a wiper problem with my 1992 Taurus and it turned out to be the wiper control module. There is a web site that tells you how to check the entire wiper system from the fuse block through the module, steering column switch and motor using a multimeter. I was able to trace my problem down and repair it using the instructions from this web page; I'm looking for it now but can't locate it. The control module is a troublesome item on these cars though you may think it is the switch on the column lever. The module is located under the dash, close to the center and can be removed by simply sliding it from it's bracket and unplugging it from the wiring harness. It is a black plastic box about 4" X 4" and about 3" thick that contains mechanical relays and will make audible clicks when moving the wiper switch through it's settings. These modules were manufactured in Brazil (I believe) and many developed intermittent broken contacts due to what is called "cold solder joints". You can actually repair these modules rather than spend $65 to replace the part. Simply look at the circuit board for dark areas where there should be smooth solder joints and resolder them. This was invauable information for me as I had tried a new motor and that didn't fix the problem. In checking the wiper module, which I found on the other side of my dashboard (in a F150 pickup), I immediately saw the cold solder joints. I reinstalled the module, but much to my dismay the wipers still didn't work. It turned out that the motor WAS bad and probably the reason the cold solder joint showed up (drawing more than normal current). Thanks to the guys above! - Pete
It's above the oil filter and below the ground bolt on the side of the block.
To reset the oil light, put the key in the ignition and turn to accessory setting (but do not start the car) Push the English/Metric button twice and then push and hold the "Gauges" button. The "Change Oil" light will flash for about 15-20 seconds and then go out. Release the button and turn key off.
When you turn the key back on, the light should be out. If it is not, repeat the above steps.
110,000 is the base price
I just finished changing mine in a '99 Nubira. I have the DOHC and both cam gears are labeled with intake and exhaust marks. It's supposed to make the gears interchangeable, but it just adds to the confusion if you're not sure which one is which. With mine the exhaust is on the right, and the intake is on the left. As far as the crank goes, there is a mark on the crank that you line up with the bottom of the timing cover. It's not labeled very well. Mine looked like a square notch about an eighth inch deep that I had to line up. In theory, if you line up all these marks correctly everything should line up. One thing to keep in mind, if your engine is an interferance engine you probably at least bent some valves when the belt broke. I can't tell you how to tell if your's is or not. Mine is.
A copy of the factory repair manual is available online at, http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/daewoo/ You can download it free as a PDF file, it was a real lifesaver for me when my timing belt broke and bent all the valves.
You can get the book and all the parts for your car at Daewoous.com
What is "Hot at idle?" Anyway, if the cooling fan IS functioning and she's still runiing on the high end of the scale, you can get a new part that fits between the wiring harness to the fan to let the fan kick on at a lower temperature. The kit comes with a new sending unit as well. It's not too expensive and solved the prob;lem for me. Mid-America, Ekler's and others stock this kit. Cooling fan not functioning. change you thermostat to a low temp. 160'mine did the same thing and this solved the problem for about $10.00
The fuel filter is along the inside of the frame rail just behind the right front tire. You will need to use a tubing wrench so the fuel line is not damaged when replacing it. Release the fuel line pressure on the fuel rail which is on the right side of the motor and just under the air plenum, it has a small cap that screws off and has a valve similar to a valve stem in a tire. You will spill a little gas when doing this so have some rags close. Jack the car up and use jack stands to secure the car when doing this. there is a small heat shield that protects the filter and requires a 10 milemeter wrench to remove the two bolts. Good luck!
Hi John, You need to find the number 1 cylinder. It is the front left spark plug when setting in the drivers seat. Take the number 1 spark plug out and turn the engine over by hand with a screw driver in the number 1 spark plug hole to find top dead center on compression stroke. You will have top dead center when the piston is at the very top. Line up the mark on the crankshaft balancer with the pointer on the engine block. Should be front left by the bottom v belt pully looking under the hood. Put the distributor in with the rotor pointing to the Number 1 spark plug wire. Firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 going clock wize. Firing alinement is (looking under the hood) 1 right 2 left 3 right 4 left 5 right 6 left 7 right 8 left. Should be marked on the intake manifold. If the engine doesn't run after installing. You are 180 degrees off. Remove the distributor just far enough to turn the rotor a half a turn and drop back in. Reinstall the lock and try again. Timing is either TDC or 4 degrees before TDC depending on your hp. .
John. This is the way to do it:
a- No need to remove any plug.
b- To find the number one, remove the drivers side valve cover. Turn the engine until the zero mark on the harmonic balancer lines with the mark on the pointer.
c- look at the valve lifters of the number one cylinder-the first pair on the head at the front of the head. Both should be free of any lift. If there is no lift on either valve, then you are at Top Dead Center of the #1 cylinder and jump to step (e) below. If there is lift on one of the #1 cylinder valves you are actually on the Top Dead Center of #6 cylinder and in this case go to the next step.
d- Turn the engine one full turn until the zero mark is lined up again on the balancer and the pointer-as before.
e- Put the valve cover back on. Bolt it down tight.
f- With the distributor out of the car, using a flash light look down into the distributor hole on the engine. About 10" down you will see a slotted shaft. This is the oil pump shaft. It is free to turn for now.
g- Obtain a long screwdriver to reach that slot. With the front of the car ponting to an imaginary North, turn the screwdriver until that slot is oriented North Eeast direction. Another way is to turn the slot towards the number 5 spark plug on the engine. Its about the same.
h- Install the cap on the distributor and with a color felt pen, draw a straight line along the tower of the number one plug and extend that line down onto the distributor body. After you do this undo the cap from the distributor housing.
i- With the distributor in your hand, turn the rotor in a way that it points about 1.5 inches clockwise from the mark you made above on the body. Remember to have the gasket between the distributor body and intake on before you attempt to drop the distributor in.Hold the rotor in that position and have mark towards the front of the engine.
j- Slowly insert the distributor into its hole on the intake manifold. Keep it in your hold and maintain position of rotor with mark and mark with front of engine.
When you feel that the distributor touched the oil pump shaft it will begin to want to position itself- the rotor will move towards the mark. Remove your hold of the rotor. See if it will continue to go down and at the same time you will notice that the rotor will want to rotate towards the mark until it lines up with the mark.
k- This is a delicate step and you need to be patient. Don't let frustration creep in. There is a little trial and error here because you want to simultaneously marry the gears as well as the female slot of the oil pump with the male end on the distributor so bear with it. Those that have done it in the past usually do not get it right from the first attempt.
l- very likely it wont work and the distributor will not bottom out on the intake. Take the distributor out and using the screwdriver turn the slot in the hole one way or another no more than 1/16 of an inch and try the above procedure again. Once the distributor bottoms out it means it interlocked properly but you still need to check that the following are noticed.
-the rotor is in line with e mark
-with the cap in position, the door is straight forward, 1/2" +or -
-the vacuum can is pointing to the right; 30-40 degrees.
m- install the distributor hold down and tighten down enough to be able, without force, to rotate distributor body for timing adjustment. In other words leave some friction to let it stay in position after start up.
n- Connect the vacuum line, spark plug wires. Double check that plug wire #1 on the engine goes on #1 at the distributor. Similarly for each of the remaining 7 wires.
o- Recheck that your balancer TDC mark is in line with the zero mark on the pointer plate. Make a visual check that you left no tools or stuff that should not be there. Check belt tensions and fluids.
p- Start the engine. If it starts adjust timing to specs, and you are done. If the engine does not want to start, and all wires are in place do a spark check to see that there is a spark in the plugs. If that is OK double check that gas is getting to your engine. If that is OK go to (q) below. If either of the latter two fails the test, correct the problem and continue.
q-start by removing red wire from the coil and remove the distributor cap but leave the plug wires on. Remove the driver side valve cover and turn the engine to TDC on the balancer.
X- If the valve springs are both be up-i.e. no compression on either. In other words they are at equal level then the engine Cylinder #1 is at TDC.
y- If the valve springs are unequal and one is compressed then you are on engine Cylinder #6 TDC.
Look at the rotor on the distributor:
IF (X) above is the case the rotor should point to #1 plug wire tower on the distributor cap. If it is not it should point to #6 tower on distributor cap -and GO TO (Z)
IF (Y) above is the situation, the rotor should point to the #6 plug wire tower on the distributor cap. If not it should point to #1 plug wire cap -GO TO (Z)
otherwise skip Z
Z- Undo the distributor hold down. Gently pull the distributor straight out about 1.5 inches. Exactly straight up 1.5'. Hold it there. With one hand holding the distributor, rotate the rotor 180 degrees. Re-lower the distributor down. It will go back in without an issue and reinstall the hold down. Reinstall the wires you disconnected and the car should start up.
Yes, the '76 came standard from the factory with shoulder/lap belt combo. Top part bolts into pillar and bottom bolts in right by the seat mount. Good luck! -ku2002
Yes, 1976 Corvettes did not come with lap belts only. They were equipped from the factory with shoulder belts. (Or the shoulder/lap combo) mentioned above. But it wasn't an either/or deal. Plain lap belts were never installed in 1976 Corvettes.
When turned on, by the door key in the left front fender or driver door lock, it will sound a horn alarm if the doors or hood are opened. The actual horn alarm is located either inside the driver side front or rear fender. Mine still works!
I removed the inside driver side door panel on my '77 and I found a wire burned apart laying in the bottom of the door. I spliced it back together and my alarm works again.
My alarm switch is in the drivers door key. Use the key to lock the car and it turns the system on.
Additionally, if you turn the system on and it trips right away, you have a short somewhere, most likely a bad door/hood/key switch.
Later C3s had a switch for each t-top, as criminals would either steal the tops or remove one and jump inside to hotwire the car without being noticed.
Passenger side, rear of the engine, just follow where the transmission meets the engine on the right side.
There could be several reasons. Are the heads torqued down properly, to the right value and in the correct pattern? Is the intake leaking? Is the distributor in the right way? What is the timing when a timing light is shown on the pointer? Are all of the vacuum lines hooked back up? Are the lifters properly adjusted? Just some things to check,
Inside the Alternator.
I have found an easy source to see exploded view items and that is to go to autozone web site. they have an exploded view of almost anything your can think of. Ed Jacksonville NC
What is ROBLOX's password on roblox?
Asked By Wiki User
Does Jerry Seinfeld have Parkinson's disease?
Asked By Wiki User
If you are 13 years old when were you born?
Asked By Wiki User
What is a hink pink 50 percent giggle?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you gain access to the third brake light on a 1989 Corvette Coupe to change the bulbs?
Asked By Wiki User
Have early 86 corvette on the power assist booster there a 2 vacuum lines the big one on top goes to the manifold can anyone tell you where the bottom one goes?
Asked By Wiki User
Where can you find a color code for a 1977 Pontiac leman?
Asked By Wiki User
How air goes in 1998 corvette tires?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.