Since one horsepower is 745 watts, a 115 volt 1 hp motor would pull about 6.5 amperes, depending on power factor.

Note:

That may be a theoretical value. However, practically speaking, single phase A.C. motors are notoriously inefficient. That is the reason the National Electrical Code lists the full load current of a 1 HP, 115 volt motor at 16 amps. That value is considered nominal and can vary depending on motor design. That value does not begin to factor in inrush current.

The best advice is to utilize the manufacturer's motor nameplate value.

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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

kW is the unit of real power & kVA is the unit of Apparent power.

Apparent Power= real power + reactive power

Besides this,the ratings which we write on a motor or generator is KVA & not KW. B'coz there are two types of losses in a motor or generator- core losses & ohmic losses. Core loss depends upon the voltage applied & ohmic losses depend upon the current flowing & none of these losses depend upon the power factor i.e. Cos@. As we know that

KW power = V * I *Cos@.

But as the losses are independent of the power factor hence we need to calculate only KVA = V*I.

Apparent power is the vector sum of real power and reactive power, not the sum.
KVA is the unit of apparent power and KW is unit of active power.

KW is kilowatts, and KVA is kilovoltamps. KW is the apparent power that a normal power meter would measure, while KVA is simply the maximum of the instantaneous product of volts and amps divided by 1000. The difference between these two terms is due to phase angle, which is due to the reactance of the load to an AC power source.

KW (kilowatts) is apparant power, while KVA (kilovoltamps) is true power. They are different when the phase angle between voltage and current is not zero, i.e. when the load is reactive, such as in a motor. The ratio of KW over KVA is Power Factor, and is the cosine of the phase angle between voltage and current. It is zero at a phase angle of 90 degree, which occurs for purely (ideal) inductive or capacitive loads with no resistance in the source or conductors, and it is one for purely resistive loads.

A loose or disconnected neutral wire at breaker box or at the appliance. Depending on what is on when and if two or more motors are running at the same time. This can as well have the opposite effect too, lights too bright.

Although loose connection can cause a problem and you should have all the connections checked, it could also be caused by several other reasons. You distance from and the load on the transformer, the size of you service conductors or lateral, the age and maintenance of your appliances. I have found out that light dimming happens in almost every house but some people are more sensitive to it than others.

Usually dimming of lights when an appliance kicks it is caused by a voltage drop of the supply caused by a heavy demand for current when the appliance initially starts. This is usually associated with an appliance that has a motor such as a refrigerator, furnace, washing machine, vacuum cleaner etc. Motors demand about 6 times their steady running current when they first start up and this can be a significant surge of current for maybe a half second or so till the motor has started and is up to speed. This basically momentarily 'overloads' the supply and lowers the voltage available to other devices, thereby causing them to momentarily slow down (if a motor) or dim (if it is a lamp).

If you switch to the new power saving compact spiral bulbs, their internal electronic ballast compensates somewhat for line voltage, so they won't react as noticeably to heavy loads starting up elsewhere in your house. The same is true for fluorescent tube fixtures with electronic ballasts.

First, get the circuits around the house tested to make sure it's happening everywhere.

You should call the power company to check the connections where your electrical service enters your house. (Meter base and breaker panel). It could be a loose connection. Do not check this yourself without getting it approved by the power company, and only if the service has been disconnected at the pole.

Removing their meter seal yourself can result in disconnection of service, fees, and criminal prosecution for theft of service. Also, it's much safer to let them check it, since they are qualified professionals.

The amperages in a service conductor can burn you to death if they are accidentally shorted, even momentarily. Electric arc flash can reach 30,000 degrees F.

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Call the utility company to check the supply to the house. If it is ok to the meter base and breaker panel, your house wiring is to blame

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Ask the utility company to feel the transformer wiring connections. They can be extremely hot because of corrosion and this will cause flickering power sometimes.

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Check the circuit breakers.

I had a friend who's lights were flickering. He had several people look into it. Electrician, Utility etc. No luck. We spent some time turning off breakers and we came to the realization that the circuit breaker's contact was bad. Replaced the breaker and voila no flicker.

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Troubleshooting is the height of the electrician's art.

The only reason there is "not enough voltage" somewhere is because there is a partially open connection providing resistance and a location to allow a voltage drop [bad splice, bad switch, bad breaker, broken wire, burned splice, ...].

It is the knowledge of how electricity works, and of the methods and materials used to create a functional wiring system, that enables a skilled troubleshooter to locate the problem and repair it.

Where should the "voltage" be, and how does it get there?

When you understand that, you will understand what is keeping it from getting where it should be...

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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

Service Voltage fluctuation may be a Power Quality problem for your electric utility to review and correct. There are some items for you to go over and help narrow the source of the anomaly. First take the middle of the road, average service composition; it is a 200 Amp, 240 Volt, 3-Wire service. Your service may not fit this description to a tee for the following reasons:

• Maybe you live on a trailer park and your home is equipped with a 30 Amp service
• Maybe your home is far away from the service transformer
• Maybe only the lights, installed on the same breaker, experience the fluctuations
• Maybe nearby commerce or industrial users are causing voltage sags
• Maybe the problem was always there, but your new equipment does not work

As already suggested, find out if the problem is in one circuit (breaker), the service panel, or the service drop.

• A problem in a circuit breaker can be isolated by noticing voltage only fluctuates there
• A problem service panel problem can be isolated by voltage sags on all circuits
• A problem in the service drop can be identified if your neighbors also have the voltage sags

Can anyone locate wiring schematic for 47546 security tv camera?

White=ground

Yellow=Audio Tip

Blue=Video Tip

Orange=V+ (7.5vdc)

Having the surge protector should not affect individual circuits. It sounds more like to me you have a bad neutral somewhere. By that I mean a wire is loose. So say the light switch or TV is left on and the bad connection is currently open, neither work. So the wind or gremlins in your house do their work and the next thing you know their on because the circuit is now making through this poor connection. If this is the case, this is a bad deal ok. You should have this looked at by a qualified electrician. Now, there is something else it could be, it's called a switch feeder. It could be that somewhere else one of the kids turned on a light switch and poof, other stuff turns on. If this is the case, it's simply a matter of moving a wire from the switched side of the offending switch to the fed side. You can test this by making sure the light you want to come on is in the on position and then walking around the adjacent rooms and flicking on switches. You know, if the boys loosed some neutrals at your panel board when they were trying to find a spot for their surge protector, that would be the bad neutral I was talking about. If you just recently had it done, call them back and tell them what's going on. It will be as simple as removing the panel cover, re-tightening the screws on all the whites. You can do it yourself if you're brave. Just turn off the main and carefully tighten only the screws on the neutral/white bar. There are still places in a de-energized panel that can beat up on you, becareful and good luck.

Andy