For the answer to this question, look in your owner's manual. Don't have one then get one. You need an owner's manual for the maintenance schedule and for questions just like this. Sources for a manual are: Dealer, Salvage Yard, E-Bay, and many on-line sites. Here is one site. http://www.samarins.com/maintenance/manual.html

The weep hole is "an indicator of bad bearings and/or seals" in the water pump when antifreeze starts to drip or run out of it. If antifreeze is coming out the weep hole, change the water pump.

Take it somewhere and get somebody that knows shat they're doing to fix it.

If it is anything like the 92 Aerostar, you have to remove the air filter hose, then remove the fan shroud, then remove the fan and pully (along with the belt, then you can unbolt the water pump and it will come straight out toward the radiator because of the impeller shaft on the inside. It is about a 4 hour job for an intermediate mechanic.

Ford Aerostar Water Pump replacement Engine Size: 3.0 V6 Front Wheel Drive

Total time with new belts and hoses, 2.5 hours. I did it on 11/25/2006 for my pops.

Parts and Supplies Needed:

New Water Pump Water Pump Gasket Water Pump Gasket Glue Blue Loctite RTV (I Used Orange) Wire Wheel on Drill (to clean corroded bolts) 13 mm and 8 mm sockets w/ extensions Optional : new belts

Air tools are helpful if you have them.

Large and small ratchets

Where do you start? - drain coolant from lower radiator hose, keep it disconnected - remove top radiator hose - remove airtube from throttle body and airbox, put it aside - remove the fan (turn clockwise with wrench , jam a pulley to keep it from rotating, hit wrench with hammer, loosen it off the mount and keep it there for now. - remove two upper fan shroud screws and remove fan and shroud at same time - remove belts by loosening alternator and loosening power steering pump, remove small plastic serp belt pulley to remove serp belt. (13mm socket) (DRAW DIAGRAMS!!!) - remove pulley with impact driver (13mm wrench)

Remove the water pump by undoing all bolts - keep track of which bolt went where (DRAW DIAGRAMS!!! Trace the new pump and poke holes where the screws go.) - clean all bolts with wire wheel if needed - remove the water inlet feed on the old pump

Remove pump when all bolts are out - clean entire gasket surface - use razor blade - dry surfaces

Prepare the new water pump and gasket: - apply gasket goop to the engine side of the water pump gasket - apply goop to the pump side surface of the water pump ITSELF!

Installing new water pump: - make sure engine block surface side is clean - stick the gasket to the surface lining up holes - put the pump on, have bolt in hand to thread in and hold it - torque all bolts down, I do it by feel - reinstall the inlet hose to the new pump

NOTE!

On all bolts going into the pump use rtv on the smooth surface of the bolt and use blue loctite on the threads!!!

Let it sit for about an hour or so, look at your fine mess and appreciate a day�s work.

Then�.

- Reinstall the pulley on the pump - reinstall the belts in correct order (small one first towards the engine) - fat one towards the front., reinstall plastic pulley to keep it all together

Tension the alternator to take up slack in Serp belt. Tension the power steering pump with a �� drive ratchet in the square hole to leverage tighten the accessory belt, hold pressure and tighten bolts simultaneously.

Flush your cooling system at this point in time with a garden hose and sprayer.

Reinstall and secure all cooling system hoses - lower radiator hose - upper hose

Reinstall the air tube

Fill cooling system up with coolant and 50% water

Get in, turn engine on and let it idle to operating temps, check for leaks.

If you suspect a false leak drive it for 20 minutes and come back.

Job well done. Not that hard for a day�s work.

Yes.

I believe it is located under the passinger side seat? At least on my 89 LXi is where it is

the shaft inside the tranny is broke.

Possible it was a special order, but, most likely aftermarket.

It is just three

Not sure if this will help but there is a web site that has wiring diagrams starting from about 6 dollars. According to the web site it covers cars and trucks. the web site is www.ahdol.com. Hope this helps.Best of luck to you.

Because the bands are slipping which has the same effect as slipping a clutch.

You need a Ford heater hose disconnect tool. You need the one with a handle to get back into the tight area. You slip the U shape end of the tool into the matching grove of the heater hose and push and pull back and forth and it'll come loose. I'ld replace the O rings will I had it apart. When you put it back together, you just have to push it back on. Make sure it locks into place. Or you can do it without the tool..The best way, if you're sure the heater core is gone and you are replacing it, is to cut the tubes just on the outside of the firewall or just inside whichever gives you best access. The hoses are connected to the heater with special clips which makes connection easy but disconnection almost impossible. When removing hoses make sure to mark the hoses (which goes on top) for proper replacement. be sure to use new plastic inserts available at the dealer. Use a little Vaseline or liquid soap to lubricate the rubber rings so as not to damage them and allow them to slip on easily. Cutting the heater tubes will save you a bundle in not buying the special tool.

Do yourself a favor. When buying a New Alternator have them check it before taking it home? I had a bad incident that I ended up with, 3 bad alternators in one day, 3 different stores. Last store check it before I took it home and everything was good. I ended up changing it 3 times. Make sure they also change the pulley. Alternator Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley. 3. Detach the electrical harness connectors at the alternator assembly. 4. Disconnect the positive battery cable and remove the nut and washer. 5. Remove 2 front alternator bolts. 6. Remove the rear alternator support bracket retaining bolts and the support bracket. 7. Remove the alternator from the vehicle. To install: 8. Place the alternator in position and loosely install 2 front alternator retaining bolts. 9. Install the alternator bracket and 3 alternator bracket bolts. Tighten to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm) 10. Tighten 2 front alternator retaining bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). 11. Connect 2 electrical hardness connectors to the alternator assembly. 12. Connect the positive battery cable and install the nut and washer. Tighten the nut to 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm). 13. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and install the drive belt on the alternator pulley. 14. Connect the negative battery cable. 15. Start the engine and check for proper charging system operation.

These rotors are sided, I would go to a parts store, and look at a pair and go from there........... .

One possibility is the shift rod in the steering column may have broke, that happened to my 93. The shift lever wouldn't move, that is what led me to believe it was the shift rod.

Pentium processor

The firing order for a 93 Aerostar is 1-4-2-5-3-6. The number one cylinder is the front one on the passenger side.

check inside the engine bay area under the hood.

There should be 2 or 3 screws holding the metal trim in place that hold the lights in place.

You maybe able to remove them that way not sure if there will be enough slack in the wiring or not to allow this. Good Luck and Remember.

Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.

You can remove the headlight trim rim around the headlamp by removing the 2 torques screws next to the turn signal light and 2 near the grill. after removing the trim, there are 4 screws, 2 on top and 2 on bottom of the headlight lens. The headlamp assembly then removes easily and has a clip on the back that holds the bulb in.

Undo the lower A arm from the strut. Use a strong metal bar to pry the arm down then the strut swings out and the axle slides free.

To keep thing cool / cold.