Any 'phone with a suitable car accessory kit.
Don't know if it's the same, but on the 1993 LX, that fuse box is underneath the dashboard, next to the driver's door. The cover panel should be labeled with a basic guide, and the owner's manual should have a more detailed description of which fuse controls what.
# Turn on radio. The radio display shows "SAFE". # Press the P.Scan and RBDS buttons simultaneously and hold until "1000" shows on the display. Release the buttons. Do NOT press these buttons again, otherwise the radio will consider "1000" to be the code. # Use Preset buttons 1 ... 4 to enter the four-digit code number from your radio card. Preset button 1 corresponds to the first digit, Preset button 2 corresponds to the second digit, etc. Each press of the button increments the number by 1. # Once the code shown on the display is correct, press the P.Scan and RBDS buttons simultaneously and hold until the word "SAFE" appears in the display, then release the buttons. # The radio should unlock and be usable shortly afterwards. # If an incorrect code is entered, the word "SAFE" appears, first flashing and then continuously. You can repeat the above steps to unlock the radio once more, the number of attempts will be shown in the display. If an incorrect code is entered again, you radio will be locked for about one hour. After one hour - the radio must stay on and the key must remain in the ignition lock - if the display goes out, the you can repeat the above procedure to unlock again. The cycle - two attempts, one hour lock-up - still applies. # If you lose your radio code, contact your Audi dealer.
its inside the drivers side dash you need to look where the dash meets the door card on the side
Here it is as clear as I can make it:
0. Display reads "Service!" when you first start the car.
1. With the ignition key in the off position, push and hold the right button under the speedometer. This is the button you use to reset the trip odometer also.
2. Turn the ignition key to the on position, but don't start the engine. Keep holding down the right button while you turn the key.
3. Push the left button under the tachometer. Your service light should reset to say something like "Service in 8100 miles."
Also try this switch ignition on (do not start) pul and hold right buttun ( display show how many km over before oil service ) let go pul again and hold after a few seconds it wil clear ------- and then show 15 000 km to next service and 365 days left.
You can run it straight through, but the whole reason for running it through the disposal is to catch anything comming off your dishes before it can clog up the pipes.
first you need to be a really big sword swallower to own one but to actually want to work on one, well the answer is the same
to set the time on a3,pull the stick next to clock,it will now flash,turn right to add hour and left so forth.little pressure is needed so don,t force.
Its not to hard to do! Inside the boot behind the light cluster there is a blank plug that you need to pop out about the size of a 50p (large coin). In there you'll see a long plastic hex nut with a slot in it. It easier to use the screw driver in your spare wheel kit (probably designed for the job!). Unscrew this nut BE CAREFUL not to drop it in inside! You then need to hold the rear cluster by the inside edge (boot/hatch open) and pull it out a bit to clear the thread you have just removed the plastic nut from. Move the front of the cluster sidewards which will pop the side of the light out of the side part of the bodywork. Its only held in by 2 plug style things in rubber gromets. Remove the black plastic covered nuts holding the grey plastic part and separate the grey from the red. The rest is simple, the bulbs are held on a circuit board like any other car in the back of the cluster. I would use Phillips bulbs though, I put some cheap petrol station ones in and it kept blowing them! Hope this helps!
--->To change your oil, put the front end of your car up on ramps so you can get underneath your car. Before you get underneath though, unscrew the oil cap on the top of your engine (this will allow the oil to drain much faster once you unscrew the oil pan nut underneath the car).
--->Climb under your car and remove the skid plate, it's easy to do (the skid plate blocks your access to the oil pan and oil filter, hence necessity of removing the skid plate) -- There are about 8 Allen screws holding it in.
--->Once you have the skid plate removed and out of the way, locate the oil pan, it should be aluminum and halfway between your front two tires... There is a (i believe) 19mm nut, maybe 3/4"...but that is what you unscrew to allow your nasty oil out...careful, there is a washer on that bolt that can fall into your oil drain pan when the nut comes out and oil gushes. The washer is brass and a magnet won't find it in your spent oil pan.
--->The oil filter is located halfway between your wheels, but towards the front of the car JUST behind the radiator fans. Once you find it, on the bottom of the filter housing is a cap that unscrews, unscrew it with your hands. You will see a small nipple that has a hole in the center. Put your Allen wrench in there, push IN and to the RIGHT. This will bleed the oil filter of remaining oil with less mess than just unscrewing the oil filter housing. DO THIS GENTLY BUT WITH ENOUGH FORCE TO ALLOW THE BLEEDER TO OPEN! If you break this part it is about 100 dollars and lots of time and trouble.
--->Put your new filter in (There's an o-ring that comes with your new filter--make sure old o-ring is out, and use the new one with your new oil filter). Reset the filter housing bleeder nipple to its normal position CAREFULLY! Put your new filter on, screw on the filter housing, screw on the bleeder cap.
--->Make sure you have the correct oil for your car, and fill it up with new oil. Make sure you do NOT overfill! You can destroy your engine by overfilling.
--->I usually put a half quart less than the recommended level, then check the level on the dipstick... JUST err on the side of not overfilling. Check the dipstick, if it's low, add the remaining half quart and you should be good.
--->Reattach your skid plate under your car.
--->Put your oil pan nut back in (might use some anti-seize on the bolt to avoid future problems removing it again), give it a good tightening.
follow bottom hose of radiator on right hand side as looking at engine to front of engine , there you will see black thermostate houseing , with 2 x bolts top & bottom .
Open the hood and look into the fender well, you'll see the black headlight assembly with a long black lever sticking out toward the engine compartment. Right next to the base of the lever is a black button with a diamond pattern on it. The button releases the lever and allows it to move upward. Push the button in enough to allow the lever to slide. Don't force it. I've heard of people snapping off the lever or pushing the button through the housing. The button only moves in a fraction of an inch. If you have dust and grime in the lever's track, it may be a little stiff. Be patient, be gentle. When you move the lever all the way to the top of it's track, the headlight assembly will start to slide out the front of the fender. You can grab it and pull it the rest of the way out. Again, it may be a little stiff, but should slide out with little effort. Look at the back of the assembly, there is a black cover with a release on the top and another small catch under a screw on the side. Push on the catches and the cover will swing off. When you get the cover off, you'll see the headlamp. The low beam is on top. It's being held in place by a wire clip that is hinged at the top. Push the bottom of the cip to clear the catch and swing the clip up. Now, you can remove the bulb and disconnect the wire. Replace the wire on the new bulb and reverse the whole procedure to put it all back together. It took me about 15 minutes.(quicker than changing the bulb in my '73 Super Beetle), and you'll save yourself $50 not taking it to the dealer. Get the right type of bulb also. You don't have to pay twice as much if your Beetle doesn't have the bright white lights. Mine doesn't. I pay about $8 for the standard bulb vs. $20 for the white ones.
Should be a in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose Should be a in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose
it should be on the last page of the owners manual you could also fill a gas can keep it in the trunk and when you run out use the gas can to get you to a gas station you will know how much was in the gas can and the pump will till you how much more you put in add the two amounts
Hi. The thermostat is on the front of the engine as you look at it. It is encased in the pump that is going towards the fan. you have to release 2 nuts and pull the pump from the engine. there you will see the thermostat in the cylindrical part of the casing. hope this helps
You only need to bleed it if your running R-12. If you're running R-134, and the compressor cycles when you turn on the ac then usually you can just add a lb of R-134. Dont add too much though because too much will restrict the ac too. I generally use an old fridge compressor to purge and pump down the system, then add the recommended ammount of 134. This should be listed on a tag on the fan/radiator cover (in the front of the van) Hope this helps.
Might be useful to precise what model you need this for...
Saturn relay 2005
There is a removable cover in the dash on the driver's side. It is in the section that is hidden when the door is closed. There is a small notch used to open it. The top of the key can be used for this.
yeah it dont matter the ohms as long as its 2-4 ohms and u should be safe cause the amp will auto ajust to 2 ohm or 4 ohm...............good luck but u wont have the power to push it .....try it and if it dosent have power to push it ad an mtx amp
This is a special JBL speaker for the Ford/JBL system. You can have it repaired for around $40 at www.simplyspeakers.com. Call 1-800-511-3343. Servcie takes about 1 week and it will perform just like new!
it is for the ejector seat. Seriously though, it stands for "sport" and when you drive with it there it lets the engine rev higher for any given speed under acceleration when compared with "d" position. So say at 40MPH in "d" the indicated rpm might be 3000 and in "s" at 40 mph it might be 4000. Finally, at a higher rpm your car will make more power (an eat more gas) so use "s" at the track or for a quick getaway.
cdc simply means CD changer, i think, coz my 1998 A6 says No CDC and it means my CD changer is not connected.
Dealer will charge $190 but any novice can fix this in 5 mins. You can order the "flasher relay" (turn signals and flasher relays are on same component) for $38 online or $65 at dealer. Its a common fix. Remove the face plate in front of the hazard switch, pul the switch out. Its connected via plug from behind. Unplug, then plug new one in. Easy!
In cars with LHS steering, the fuse box is located on the left side of the dashboard.
BS. They are not at all standardized. Use VW/ Audi Pentosin , or another product called DexCool if in a pinch.
you should stick with whatever antifreeze the manufacturer recommends. Those colors aren't there just for marketing purposes; each one denotes a different chemical composition. If Audi recommends that you use yellow or pink antifreeze (which they do for newer models), then stay with it. Remember also that your cooling system will still cool and lubricate itself with as little as 30 percent antifreeze to water content. If you're a little low and need to top off, you can't go wrong with deionized water.
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