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because the ecu compansates the engine speed for the load..as it does for electrical drag etc .Gone are the days of engines stalling under load!

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The code 1709 is pointing to a problem with the Kick Down Servo Switch. Circuit open or shorted to ground.

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If the car is like the 1997 model Hyundai Accent (USA, or 1999 Excel from Australia) try this:-

1/ Remove the panel under the steering wheel. There should be four bolts - the two at the top are covered with plastic caps. When you have removed the panel, take off the two climate control cables that run to the air controls on the dashboard. They should be secured with clips which need to come off, and the wire centre is wound around a small control knob which should have a push in clip so the wire can slip off.

2/ Make the glove box drop down by removing the two plastic clips at the back of the inside of the glove box. These clips are the glove-box buffer stops and should spring off and can be pulled through the clip-opening. Behind the glove-box is another wire to un-clip, but this one slips straight off the metal control actuator.

3/ Remove the ash-tray by pressing the spring loaded metal part down and take the two screws out at the back of the ash-tray. You should now be able to unclip the central dashboard. Use a screwdriver to lever it away gently, and watch for the small metal clips that drop out as you do so. As you pull it away the cables you unclipped will come away from their place and come out with the dash unit.

4/ After pulling the dash-board out a few inches you should be able to see the seating screws for the radio. Take all the screws out and pull the radio forward. By unclipping the cables at the top of the unit you will find you have enough play to pull the driver's side right forward and jigger the head unit out of the gap on one side of the unit.

That was the method I've just used on a 1997 model Hyundai Accent to take the radio out (and worked for me on a '99 Excel Sprint). I fixed the tape and stuck it back in and it all works. Heaven knows why they made it so difficult to get at but there-ya go. . Roger :o)

Additional hints/comments by Aybiss.

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HI !

ASK THE HYUNDAI DEALER TO BORROW THEIR CRANK REMOVAL TOOL. WHAT IS HOLDING YOUR WINDOW CRANK ON IS A WIRE CLIP THAT IS SHAPED SIMILAR TO A HORSESHOE ON THE BACKSIDE OF YOUR PLASTIC WINDOW CRANK. THIS TOOL PUSHES THE OPEN ENDS APART SO THAT IT CAN SLIDE AWAY FROM THE CRANKSHAFT. YOU CAN PROBABLY GET IT WITH A NEEDLENOSE AND A SCREWDRIVER, BUT YOU RISK SCRATCHING THE DOOR PANEL OR THE CRANK ITSELF, I KNOW CAUSE THAT'S HOW I GOT MINE OFF. ONCE YOU SEE THE STUPID CLIP OFF, YOU'LL SEE HOW SIMPLE A CLIP IT IS AND WHY IT CAN BE SUCH A PAIN IN THE BUTT TO GET OFF. ONCE THE HANDLE IS OFF, THE CLIP IS SIMPLY REPLACED ONTO THE BACKSIDE OF THE CRANK AND YOU'LL SEE HOW A SMALL SECTION OF THE CLIP STICKS INTO THE TOOTHED SHAFT THAT YOUR CRANK SITS ON AND HOLDS IT IN PLACE. GOOD LUCK !

Funny to see this question. I just took my door apart Saturday. One thing about the clip is that it might be on backwards; mine was. The clip lines up with the crank handle and the open section facing away from the crank handle. Mine was put on with the open clip facing the handle. Because of this using the crank tool was useless but its easy enough to use a long thin screwdriver and just push one side of the clip off.

There are also two screws in the padded armrest that need to come out and one more exposed screw, not just the two mentioned in the prior post. Once all five screws are out use a "door fork"(crank tool) to pop the plastic retaining pins around the door and unscrew the topside lock button

Once all the pins are freed slide the panel forward a bit(it has notches just in front of the opening handle) and lift it up. Once its free pull it towards you enough to see the back side of the handle. Push the little white clip off the metal rod and rotate it about 90 degrees. The door rod will now free up from the handle lever and the panel is off :)

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i believe that refers to the filter behind the engine (on top) has a hose on each end with one electrical connection easy to change

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Year make model would help. Probably you are referring to a hub assembly in a passenger car. A hub assembly contains the wheel bearing, and the hub to mount the wheel to. Many also contain the anti lock brake system wheel speed sensor which makes them very expensive in some cases.

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3.48 quarts of oil.

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When the car reaches the speed that you would like to attain (say 55 MPH) and levels off (stays at 55 MPH) the engine does not require as much gas as when you are getting up to speed (0 - 54 MPH). So considering this, Overdrive is when you get up to speed and the amount of gas put into the chambers is reduced, (but you still continue at 55 MPH) saving tons of gas and is easier on your engine. The overdrive on/off switch controls the transmission. If overdrive is off (indicated by light on dash) vehicle will not shift into overdriven gear (4th gear); which can be useful for mountain driving. Overdrive should be on though as it will greatly effect your gas milage if it is off.

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I would look on the driver side firewall in engine compartment. Try tracing high pressure fuel hose from fuel rail. it is above the gas tank , you remove the back seat and change it from inside the car. bolloxs its in the engine bay clamped to the bulk head with two banjo type hoses on it one on the top and one on the bottom but its a sod to remove best left to a dealer. Rear seat will need to be removed. There is a panel in the floor, pop that open. Fuel filter is located below panel. The fuel filter is under the back seat in my 2000 Accent. Once you lift the backseat there is a small panel and if u lift that up it is in there. The filter has two connections on it one at the top and one at the bottom remove one slowly as some fuel may spray and then hold it upwards and have a rag handy to prewvent any fuel from getting on the interior when removing the other end. Just attach the new filter the same way the old one was. Dont stress if the car doesn't start immediately as fuel needs to go through the new filter.

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Regarding removal of the Accent door panel: After removal of the four obvious Phillips screws securing the door panel to the door (located two at the bottom and two at the front just below the adjustment for the side mirror), remove the window crank handle ( in this case the "C" clip is located BETWEEN the handle and the spacer and usually oriented so the clip opening is in line with the knob), remove the screw securing the interior door handlde, remove the screw securing the door release (and power locks if equiped) the GENTLY pull the door panel, starting at the front then moving in a clockwise direction, to the rear which will have four plastic clips securing the panel at the rear. These need to be pulled out of their respective holes ( a special tool is available but not necessarily required). Once this is done lift the panel vertically to free the inner window seal. .

A good way to remove the C-clip is to slide a towel in between the spacer and the window crank and work it upwards until the clip comes off.

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The clutch switch is right under the dash board under the clutch it is a long tubular looking switch that pushes in and out

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Hi, Do you mean the fans near the radiator or the blower. The blower is located behind the glove box. The ac fan is fixed behind the radiator on the RIGHT side. The radiator fan is fixed behind the radiator on the LEFT side. Hope that helped.

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What makes U think it requires a speed sensor?This particular automobile functions off of Pulse Generators A & B.Either or could go bad causing symptoms such as erratic shifts and DTCs(PO717,722,732,732,ETC...).Location of these are atop tranny near upper

mounting bracket and slightly to rear of same bracket,closest to firewall.Merely trace sensor connector(s).Hope this aid in the rectification of your problem.

Speed sensor? Does it have one..? it has a cable coming from the top back of the gear box that goes into the back of your dash to the speed-o. If you aren't getting a speed reading, the cable may have snapped and you'll need a new one. This wont be an easy job as it's a nightmare getting behind your clocks and dials.

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The headlight bulbs have clips that hold them in place. You have to push the clip, which sort of "L" shaped to one side or the other slightly, to unlock it and the rotate it away from the socket assembly. The lamp on the drivers side is a bear, you have to remove a plastic cover then get the battery out of the way. You can't even see the thing until you do that. Good Luck!

Additional information regarding the headlight clip (added 8/18/08). First, remove the plug. When looking at the clip, one side appears to have a screw attached, the other does not (tight 'U'-shaped handle). I believe the 'U'-shaped handle is on the outside, or the side furthest from the engine/closest to the wheel.The following has two parts. First, put your finger on the U-shaped handle and press firmly toward the front of the car. Second, while still pressing foward, move your finger up to clear the "clip gate" or "ledge" (I think this is what the original author described as being 'L' shaped). This will release the free side of the clip. It will still be attached to the "screw" side. Swing the clip out of the way to access the bulb. After the bulb has been replaced, push the clip up and over the clip gate and back into place. Replace the plug and you're done!

Additionally, (added 02/13/2010), once you have removed and replaced the bulb itself and are now battling the clip; if your clip has come completely loose and you can hold it in your hand (like mine did), you must FIRST put the "square" bend in the clip behind the screw and washer, so the "straight(er)" end of the clip goes UNDER the bulb and the POINT is above the bulb and pointing up.

Once I had secured that "squared" part of the clip behind the screw and washer, and made certain the "pointed" bend was pointing up, I used long nosed pliers to get the "ear" of the clip to fit into its slot. You need to be able to see very well and have the body of a contorionist to do this, so if a limber teenager with good eyesight is handy, try to enlist his/her help!

I finally figured out the correct orientation by removing the cover on the other headlight and examining it carefully, then duplicated that one on the side that needed repair.

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This information is listed somewhere on the vehicle, usually the driver's door post. If you have 14" wheels the OEM size is 185/65-14. If it has 15" wheels then 195/55-15

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Try: 1997 Hyundai Accent Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram Car Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Red/Yellow

Car Radio Ignition Switched 12V+ Wire: Blue/White

Car Radio Ground Wire: Black

Car Stereo Illumination Wire: N/A

Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A

Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A

Car Stereo Amplifier Trigger Wire: N/A

Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4″

Front Speakers Location: Doors

Left Front Speaker Wire (+): White/Red

Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Black/Red

Right Front Speaker Wire (+): White/Blue

Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Black/Blue

Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″

Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck

Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): White/Red

Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Black/Red

Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): White/Blue

Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Black/Blue

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You don't. This should only be done by an expert.

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HI ! I HAVE A 95 ACCENT. IT GOT HIT ON THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE. NOT LONG AFTER THAT THE DAMAGE LED TO THE HORN SHORTING OUT AND ME GOING DOWN THE STREET GOING "MMMMMMNNNNNNNNNAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH !! " ALL THE WAY. SO I KNOW.... THE HORN IS LOCATED UNDER YOUR DRIVERS SIDE TURN SIGNAL. I THINK THE EASIEST WAY TO REMOVE THE DRIVER'S SIDE SIGNAL LAMP, THAT WAY YOU CAN EASILY REACH TO IT.

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I did this recently on Hyundai Accent. First things first is to disconnect the battery to prevent any contact that can produce sparks during the disconnection of the positive (+) supply of the alternator 1. Jack up car. Remove splash guards from bottom. 2. From bottom loosen pivot bolt. 3. From bottom disconnect cables. 4. From top loosen adjustment bolt and slacken belt. 5. Remove belt from pulley and remove adjustment bolt. 6. From bottom remove pivot bolt. 7. Alternator may have corroded to mounting bracket so work it loose. 8. Find out alternator will not slide out of engine compartment. 9. Loosen radiator mounting bolts. 10. Shift radiator to side to make more room to get alternator out. 11. Install alternator. 12. Put radiator back in its place.

I guess it depends on what year... I too just did an alternator on a 2001 Accent. First, and what the previous forgot, disconnect the negative battery cable. Steps 1 thru 5 are exact. Step 6 is where we differ. 6. From bottom, push alternator up and out of mounting slot, gently work it down and out. 7. The pivot bolt can then be punched out (my bolt had a center mark where a punch would stay, so not to damage the threads) and then put into the replacement. Re-assemble in reverse order.

Last night I did this repair on 1999 accent. a 10mm and 12mm sockets and end wrenches are needed. After trying to wiggle the alternator up through the top, I was afraid of damaging other electrical connections, so I took the oil filter off. It was time for an oil change anyway, but just removing the filter only lost maybe half a quart of oil. The local autozone had an alternator for 129.99, lifetime warranty.

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Corroded calibers that are rusting and sticking. Moisture is in the brake fluid. Replace the calibers and replace all the brake fluid. It can also be a sticking slide pin on the brake assembly. Check that before replacing the caliber.

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If adjustable, otherwise replace.

Hyundai vehicles use a hydraulic clutch set up which are not adjustable. When replacing the clutch do not machine the flywheel; this changes the clearances and will cause clutch engagement issues. Inspect flywheel for cracks or heat related damage, if none sand using 3M sanding disk or equivlent, if there is damage replace flywheel. Note: I believe the torque specs on the pressure plate are 12-16 ft-lbs.

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YOU MIGHT LOOK AT HMASERVICE.COM, ITS A HYUNDAI WEB SITE WITH LOTS OF TECH INFO