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try the interior light switches on the doors

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I believe its a tranmission control system malfunction code

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This is a pain in the butt. Had to fix the windows on both my 98 windstars! The key to getting the window out is to remove the front & rear metal slides. The trick to doing that is to drill out the rivets. You can replace them with bolt & nut from the local hardware store (pan heads work best :) Good luck, and get some band-aids for your knuckles - you're gonna need 'em!!!!

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The "clicking" is probably your solenoid trying to engage the starter. The problem is most likely a low battery which is strong enough to power the solenoid (hence the clicking), but not strong enough to turn the engine over. Your battery may have been run down (by leaving your lights on, for example), or it may simply be old and need replacing. Usually it's low battery charge or corroded battery terminals. I can also be starter and a number of other problems, but start with the usual suspects. If you can start it with a battery boost/booster cables from another vehicle, start it long enough to take it to an auto parts retailer. They are usually willing to test batteries and charging systems. Find out if it's the battery or if the charging system is not keeping the battery charged. Your battery only STORES electrical energy, and if the alternator can't keep the battery charged there won't be enough energy in the battery when you try to start it, and the starter will just click. On the other hand, sometimes a battery gets old and tired and it won't hold a charge any more... the results are the same, so you have to have the battery tested. UNFORTUNATELY, when an older battery goes completely dead it will often just give up and you could have both alternator AND battery problems. Anyway... have it all tested and you'll know where you are.

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They are 2 different part numbers, so I wouldn't attempt trying to make it work.

No because the suspensions are completely different

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What about the blend door itself?

They are known to break loose from the shaft they mount to.

Also, with the engine running and fully warmed up, feel both heater hoses as they enter the heater core from under the hood, they should both be quite hot (180+ degrees F). If one is hot/warm and the other is warm/cold, the heater core may be blocked/plugged. If that is the case give the heater core a good flush with the garden hose. If both heater hoses are hot, you still have a blend door problem as stated above. If both heater hoses are cold, you may have a stuck open thermostat or you are very low on coolant.

See "Related Questions" below for more

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Usually if a seat motor is causing the fuse to blow then the motor is going bad. It could be using more amperage than it is designed to use. This will cause the fuse to blow. DO NOT be tempted to put in a bigger fuse. This can cause a fire. Good luck.

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According to page 181 of the Owners Manual (see below), the maximum trailer weight is 3,500 lbs.

2000 lbs to pull.

3500 lbs. if you have the SEL with the trailer tow package

This information is listed in your owner's manual. Don't have one, get one. Dealer, salvage yard, e-bay, Google Search.

LOL! Depends on how long you want the transmission to last!!!!

I wouldn't do it - they're very expensive and kinda 'weak'

After 1998 it moved from 2000 to 3500 lbs

3500.Lbs. if you have the tow package or 2500 lbs. without

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I my experience, I would next check out the distributor and make sure that it and the #1 cylinder are aligned. Then if not that, goto your timing and check to see if the timing is off.. does it turn over slowly or not at all ,,you need to explain a little more for me to help you In my experience with a 94 ford f150, it was the cylinoid!! If you had your vehicle checked at a professional auto shop, go get your money back. It is the rules and regulations in most shops that they not only check the battery and starter, but to also check the distributer and the cylinoid as well. I have had my truck for 8-9yrs now and I have always had it annually checked thoroughly...it has kept me from walking home when I needed a rig to drive.

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Weak Battery?

Loose or corroded battery cables?

Weak starter solenoid?

Bad starter? Weak Battery?

Loose or corroded battery cables?

Weak starter solenoid?

Bad starter?

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there is a actuator that moves the tempature blend door,the door that controls hot to cold.the gears in the motor are plastic.is it makes a clicking noise after you turn the heater on ,it broke answer a flapping sound is usually caused by a leaf or other matter falling down thru vents pull fan cover off and clean debis out, mostdoors are are controlled by cable or vacuum,not gears.as you didnt say a clicking sound i doubt very much it has anything to do with motor or gears

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Check both the fuses under the left side of the dashboaed, near the hood releae and don't forget to check the relays right next to the fuse box. See if any of the relays are unusully warm (may be grounding out)

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What kind of repair are we talking? However, The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn�t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4�s may have a steel plate that may need removal

In other words, I don't know the answer.

to rebuilt a transmission on a voyager, it costs about $1200, but you can get a rebuilt one for only $850. plus, consider the labor....

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You really have to just find out where it is leaking and what it will take to repair it. GoodluckJoe

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bank 1 is the side of motor near the firewall that's where the #1 plug is

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You may have gotten a warrantee that covers the power train for 30 days or 1,000 miles but nothing here sounds like a power train failure. If it's an almost-new car and you got the factory warrantee transferred, you can probably get the dash lights repaired, but the brakes are a maintenance item that wouldn't be covered even by a bumper-to-bumper warrantee, unless it is more than just worn out pads.

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When it is working, go to autozone.com and they have diagrams. Or go to MOTORLIT.COM. 4bbl A/T Calif Emissions

No, it does not. Please be accurate on your answers.

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It should be .050

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Go to this link: http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/boostleaks/vacuum_hose_guide.htm This should give you all the info you need :)

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look on the exhaust pipe just before the convertor or after the convertor on a 3.8 there are 4 of them,2 before each converter and 2 after

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Rack/pinion doesn't have adjustments for wear. If it is bad, replacement is needed.

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The 99 Chevy Astro uses the refrigerant R-134a. You can purchase R-134a and all the tools to recharge your A/C system from any auto parts store, most department stores, some warehouse stores, and even at convenience/gas stations.

Make sure to use a high side pressure gauge and thermometer to ensure a proper charge. Follow the directions included with the tools.

The problem is that refrigerant R-134a does not 'go bad', it leaks out from a part of the system. You should determine where the leak is and fix it, you will usually see oil residue where the leak is located. A very common place on Chevy/GM vehicles to leak is the A/C compressor. These can be replaced from after-market suppliers.