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you should know im trying to find out and i cant find anything im only 9!

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Intrusive igneous rocks.

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First you have to dissconnect the positive battery cable. Then you have to remove the 2 5/8 bolts that hold the starter in. Then you can move the starter towards the front of the truck and swing it down nose first. Then you have to remove the thick power cable 1/2 in nut. Then the small solenoid cable. Then completely remove the starter and place it in the box the new on came it. Take the new starter and connect the solenoid wire and power wire. Place the nose back in to the hole where the fly wheel is and slightly turn the first 5/8 in bolt back in to place. Then the second 5/8 in bolt. Then tighten both down. Connet the positive battery cable and Your done.

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Probably not. Should be able to go to about .510 or .520 without interference.

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Its EASY! just connect the (usually green) wire to the negative post on the coil. Hook up the power wires and the illumination wire and ground for the tach wire and ur done its easy!

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firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.not sure about timing Answer 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 is the firing order for small block chevys. With #1 spark plug out of heads,turn over engine with your finger over spark plug hole.When you feel air being pushed out,the engine is on an com- pression stroke.look at distributor roter. It should be pointing at the #1 plug hole,if it isn't move it so it will be.after you put distributor cap back on,start wiring your spark plug wires over the roter button(#1 plug wire-#1plug)then just follow around the cap in the firing order above. Answer Need to concider altitude, octaine, miles on timing chain etc... Timing is a little fussy on 305's unlike other hevies that like lots of advance, the 58 cc combustion chamber make s the engine finicky where you set it. Stock position about the best. Answer same as any 305 307cept them two have clockwise and counter clockwise orders.. get a timing light.

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The cost of a rebuild can vary quite a 'bit depending on what you need to replace, the level of machining work that needs to be done, and obviously, who you bring it to and how much they charge. A typical rebuild will consist of cleaning all the parts to be re-used (including the engine block, cylinder heads, crankshaft, and connecting rods, which is usually done by the machinist). Milling the cylinder heads, boring the block, and sometimes turning the crank under, to ensure consistency, and a good fit well within tolerances. Usually it will also be left to a machinist to install all the bearings and plugs in the engine, as well as pressing the pins into the piston, and installing the piston on the rods. A lot of this can be done by a good mechanic as well, as long as they have the proper tools and machines to do so. The rest of the assembly can usually be done with a basic garage setup, just so long as the builder knows how to properly lubricate the parts, torque everything down, adjust the valve lash, and if in charge of the first firing and break in, properly adjust timing, check pressures, and look for any problems. But to address your original question of how much it costs.... Rebuild kits for Chevy 350 engines range anywhere from $400 to $800 for basic setups, and should include most, if not every part you'll need to replace (bearings, plugs, seals, new pistons, rings, cam, etc.) These kits do not include things like water pumps, alternators, belts, manifolds, etc. If you are building for higher performance, expect to pay at least in the $1,500 - $3,000 range and up, depending on how much power you want to make. Basic cleaning and machining by the machinist usually doesn't exceed $300 - $500, but if the machinist finds other things wrong than the basics, expect to pay more. Re-seating valves, and rebuilding cylinder heads can typically run you anywhere from $200 - $600, not including parts........just to give you an example. Anyway, to bring this ramble to a close, on the low end, I would expect to pay at least $1,500 - $2,000 for a decent rebuild, and on the high end (as long as your talking basic, not performance), expect around $3,000 and up. Keep in mind, again, this does not usually include parts like water pumps, belts, fluids, etc. And you'll also have to keep in mind extra expenses like removal and re-installation of the engine, and some places also charge for the disassembly of the engine as well. Your best bet is to talk with a few local, reputable mechanics and/or machinists, and they could give you a better idea of the service they offer, the prices they charge (as a lot of that varies by region, etc.), and what sort of turnaround you'd be looking at. Hope this was some help, and good luck!

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Pretty good if everything's functioning properly.

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If it is just sputtering like it's trying to stay running, you need higher octane fuel in it or put a fuel system cleaner in the tank... I prefer chemtool B-12

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You just disconect the wires and then take out the bolts holding it in. Remember to always disconnect the battery.

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the HEARTBEAT of AMERICA

See the USA in a Chevrolet

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Very difficult to remove

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might twist the gasket.

only hand tighten filters.

wrenches are only for removing.

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top dead center for cyl. #1 is when the notch on the crank lines up exactly with "0" on the timing cover. if you have the upper timing cover off, the marks on the cam gears should be up and in line with the marks on the metal plate behind the gears. if all those things are lined up, the engine has cylinder #1 at TDC of the compression stroke. to set the distributor at this point, find where the #1 plug wire is. trace its location down to the distributor body and mark on the distributor EXACTLY where the electrode is. (you need to be able to see where its supposed to be because you cant install the distributor with the cap on) now remove the dist. cap. before installing the distributor, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise just a little to line up the notch on the crank to the 10 deg. mark. now install the distributor so when its fully seated, the rotor points directly at the mark you made on the distributor. (you may have to remove and remesh the gears a few times to make this work, you also have flexibility with the built in adjustment on the dist. itself) this will be very close to correct ignition timing. after the engine is running it should be checked with a light.

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The chev 305 was introduced in the mid 70's and was discontinued in late 90's early 2000's.They were available in all GM rear wheel drive models except the corvette.

Actually, the 305 was offered in the Corvette. In 1980, Corvette fans had the choice of 190 or 230 bhp 350cu.in. engines unless he or she lived in California, in which case the only set-up on offer was the 180bhp 305cu.in. engine.

The 305 was first made in 1976 and has been put in, as stated before, all rearwheel drive GM vehicles. The most popular being the 1500 trucks, Camaros, Monte Carlos, and Firebirds.

The 305 was first available in the 1/2 and 3/4 ton pick up models in 1977. In 1987 they were available with a throttle body electric fuel injection.

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1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2

An oldie, but a goodie- have fun.

The ignition timing is 4 degrees before top dead center. Adjust the point dwell to 30 degrees and the adjust the idle speed. then disconnect the vacuum to the vacuum advance and set the timing. Reconnect the vacuum and fine tune the carburator.

With an upgrade to electronic ignition and with running todays gas (low octane) a bump up in timing would be recomended. Try running about 6 degrees after and see how it does would not go above 12 after.

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No need to pull the timing chain. Remove drive belt and then remove the crankshaft pulley. use a screwdriver with a piece of cloth wrapped around the tip so you don't damage the seal bore. place the new seal square with the bore and use block of wood or a socket smaller diameter than the seal and a rubber mallet to insert the seal flush with the crankshaft bore. put back on the pulley and tighten according to torque specs in your shop manual then reinstall the drive belt and run engine to check for leaks.

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1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

The firing order goes 1357 is on the right side of the block 2468 are left side. that is if you are standin in front of the motor

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Yes they were available.

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put on top dead center on number 1 cylinder(driver side front)and slip dist in hole slowly turning at bottom until it seats all the way down.Make sure rotor is pointing at number 1 not 6 plugwire, if it is raise up a couple inches and turn rotor 180 degrees and set again.very simple to do.

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Hey John==It is quite involved. Get a manual from the local parts store and it should have pictures and everything. Good luck, Joe

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If you mean that it goes down almost all the way, but won't go down the last 1/4" or so, then it's not lined up with the oil pump shaft. Bump the engine around with the starter a little, and it should drop right in.

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.045

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== ==

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1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 It is also embossed into the intake right in front of the carburetor.

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should be fuel injection (SI sequential injection)

Most Hondas made up until about 1988 were carbureted, at which point they all switched to fuel injection. (The main difference then was whether they used dual point injection or multipoint injection...the Si models used multipoint.) Prior to 1988, you could tell if a Honda sport model was carbureted by the model designation. "S" was used for the sport models that were carbureted (S = Sport), while "Si" stood for the sport models that were fuel injected (Si = Sport Injected). A prime example was the Prelude, which offered a twin-carb version called the "S" and a fuel injected version of the same car called "Si." This naming strategy was common in the 80s with other manufacturers as well. Take, for instance, the Merkur XR4Ti. The "T" stood for "Turbocharged" while the "i" stood for fuel "injection," in the same was that the "i" stands for fuel injection on Honda Si models.