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Gasser race care, or simply "gassers," were a class of 1/4-mile drag racers that ran on gasoline as opposed to alcohol or other more exotic fuel such as nitro-methane. The classes for these "gassers" were many and, in the '60's when they were extremely popular, the most well-remembered body style being the '33, '40 or '41 Willys coupe. Bench-engineering in those days leaned toward power more than aerodynamics and, since these cars typically ran between 10-second and 16-second quarter mile times, the nose of the vehicle was raised up to promote "weight transfer" to the rear tires on launch. Today, with much faster times, the nose is typically lowered to promote down-force at very high speeds. Classes were determined by weight to (engine) cubic inch ratio and everything from a supercharged Willys coupe to the family sedan could be raced in the "gas" classes. The gassers died out in the early '70's when bracket racing became popular. Bracket racing pits unlike vehicles against one another with a "handicapped" starting system to equalize the race and allow for more racing to occur. In the old days, the racer would stretch the rules of his class in building his car to the max and race "heads up" with another racer who thought he could find a better way within the "rules." Those were the days. I own an ex-racer gasser. It's a replica 1927 Ford roadster, full-fendered, not the "T-bucket" (fenderless) that many street-rodders build. My car raced in the '60's and was owned by Willie Johnson, a rare African-American drag racer. The car was powered by a 1957 Corvette motor, 283 cubic inch displacement. It was supercharged with fuel injection and, near the end of its career, raced in the AA/G ("A" for weight-to-displacement, "A" for supercharged and "G" for "Gas" class). With a mere 100-inch wheelbase, it was a wild ride.

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The idle speed and idle mixture are the first things to adjust and are very easy. If there is an off-idle stumble or a bog, you'll need to make adjustments to the accelerator pump and possibly the power valve to suit your engine. Here is a link to a Holley manual that explains it in detail: http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Carburetor%20Tech%20Info.pdf

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Its up underneath the dash. There are four bolts and three wires, black, red and orange and you are done.

the first answer is from someone who has very obviosly never even seen a nova ignition switch. if you have the key, simply put the key in the ignition and leave it in the off position. take a paper clip and insert it into the small hole next to the key, this will allow you to push the switch in further and twist the key counterclockwise allowing the whole unit to slide out.

if you don't have the key, good luck. its a nightmare.

Actually, I think you need to insert the paper clip while the key is in the "accessory" position, then push in and turn counterclockwise. The cylinder can be removed at this point, and you can then remove the bezel nut that holds the ignition switch in place.

both of these answers are telling you how to remove the lock cylinder. the ignition box or switch "both names are commonly used," is on the top of the steering column under the dash. there are two bolts and a wiring harness attached to ignition box. simply remove the two bolts and unplug the wires, remove and reinstall. the hardest part is adjusting the box so the actuator bar is pushing switch into proper position. if you are talking about the lock cylinder go with one of the obove answers. Wow. When the key is on the column, is when they went to the rod type system. On that Nova, it is on the dash, attached to the lock, and tumbler. One piece. the third answer, is the most accurate.

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5 x 4 3/4"

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On the Chevy V8 SB the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 the distributor turns clockwise and the cylinders are numbered while facing the front of the engine or car number 1-3-5-7 will be on your right and numbers 2-4-6-8 will be on your left. , EzForJesus

this guy is correct but does he know that the nova has a 350 small block?

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you need a pickle fork to drive between the control arm and the ball joint to separate them.

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This urban legend is often taught in marketing classes. In truth, however, the Chevy Nova sold perfectly well in Latin America. The legend says that the car sold poorly because the word "Nova" is similar to the phrase "no va" which translates to "doesn't go." There was no confusion, however, as the pronunciation of the two phrases is different, "Nova" having the accent on the first part of the word and the phrase "no va" having the accent on the second word. Snopes.com uses the example of selling a dinette set set in the US called "Notable" wouldn't suggest to consumers that there is "no table" in the set. There was, and still is a gasoline sold in Mexico under the trade name Nova. Further information can be found at www.snopes.com.

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inside the alternator.

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it's been a while since i have worked on these machines, but i will try. the alternator should be on the top right/left of the motor. there should be a bolt that is on a mount with a slot on it.(i'm basing this of my experienc, i could be wrong). loosening the bolt should allow you to move the alternator making the belt easy to remove. after that, there should be a couple of bolts left to remove. check all over, on top/bottom, behind, everywhere!

i'm going to guess that the starter is under the motor towards the "back end" i.e. opposite end of the alternator. that should only have a few electrical lines and bolts on it. NOTE: spray some WD40 on the bolts to loosen them! do not try to remove the bolts without spraying them with something. those bolts will be a bear to remove.

i hopes this helps.

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Hello, I am afraid that the voltage regulator is INTERNAL. Which means that you will have to replace the alternator to fix your problem. This is an under the Z job and I think it is a 2.3hr labor rate at the shop. I can do them in about 30-45 minutes. Before you do replace the alternator please keep in mind 2 things. First, buy an alternator with a lifetime warranty!!!!! There have been a few bad batches of diodes within the alternator and a few of us had to replace the alternators every few weeks a time or two. Or you could purchase an OEM one but they are pretty expensive. Second, if you do not have a set of METRIC RATCHING WRENCHES, THEN PLEASE BUY THEM BEFORE STARING ON THIS PROJECT! There is not alot of room to work and sockets just don't cut it! Believe me, the right tool makes all of the difference! You will also need a 15mm or 17mm socket and a bungee cord. It is alot easier to swing down the sway bar but before you do lash it up with the bungee cord so you don't hit yourself on the head :) You will also have to remove the skidpads underneath and don't be heart broken when you will snap off the heads of a few 10/12mm bolts. This happens! You do not need to remove your alternator belt but clipping it out of the way helps. Also, YOU NEED TO COMPLETELY DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY!!!!!!!! For more advice on your Z: www.z31.com Anna N. DesignQuest Auto Enhancing Tri-State Z Car Club IZCC #11540 Z31 #2524

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yes

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If you pull the turn signal swithch out of the way ther is a small slot with casting flash in it, there is a screww stand in the same are, take a a small flat screwdriver and punch out the casting flash, turn the ignition to the "run" position and take a flat tool like a feeler guage and push down on the lock cylinder release, it will take afew tries, you will feel it push in about 1/16" or so, keep pushing and pull the cylinder out at the same time. My email is dpw28@astound.net, I could send a picture if you read this before I finish rebuilding my column. Dennis

He's right I had to do the same once after I couldn't get her to crank. I realized something was altered in the interior when I Bought it from a guy in Tennessee. Sammy.

i have a question, how ya supposed to turn it to the ON position when the key wont work.

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yes 20 inch rims should fit on your nova with no problems

But why would you want to? That's stupid. Nova is meant for the strip. Not show!

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It's easy. Having a repair manual like a Haynes would make it even easier, simply because of the pictures, but I'll try and describe it.

First, disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, followed by any electrical connections between the alternator and everything else. Now, when you're looking at the alternator from the front of the car, at the very bottom is an adjustment bolt for the belt...loosen that so that there is a bit of slack on the belt. On the side of the alternator (I don't remember which side, sorry) are two bolts...simply undo those and it'll come right out. Installation is the reverse of removal, but make sure you tighten the belt to the specified tension.

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it's in the heater box under the glove box.simply disconnect the hoses under the hood,and take the heater box out from under the dash get a new core and install

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A 73 454 had 265 horse so I'm sure a 75 had less than that.

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The base Chevy Nova came with a 250 Cubic Inch (4.1 Liter) inline 6 cylinder. Optional engine was the 305 Cubic Inch (5.0 Liter) V8 In addition to the 305 were two flavors of 350. The first was a 2bbl rated at 145hp @ 3800rpms and the second sported a Quadrajet rated at 165hp @ 3800.

The base Chevy Nova came with a 250 Cubic Inch (4.1 Liter) inline 6 cylinder. Optional engine was the 305 Cubic Inch (5.0 Liter) V8 In addition to the 305 were two flavors of 350. The first was a 2bbl rated at 145hp @ 3800rpms and the second sported a Quadrajet rated at 165hp @ 3800.

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Typically you fill to just below the fill hole, I usually use a smaller Allen wrench to check it. if it is to about the middle of the short end I just leave it. This is usually pretty close to two quarts.

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Inside the engine, mounted to the block. The oil pan must be removed to access the pump.

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You add it through the tranny dipstick hole, pull the dipstick out and add the fluid.

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In the alternator