It was an option , so maybe yes , maybe no
Open the liftgate and remove the ( 2 ) screws at the top of the tail light
Carefully work the tail light straight back towards you because it's held in place by plastic pins >>>>>>>>>> and you don't want to break any of those
Sounds like the timing belt is going bad and the motor is out of time slightly. this motor is a dual overhead cam design and it is pretty tricky to change this unless you are a good mechanic.
There is none
Modern auto A/C sytems use R134a refridgerant not freon or R12. Add refridgerant to your system by accessing the "low side" fitting. It is located on the accumulator/drier near the firewall on the passenger side. The high side is near the battery on the driver side. There is no way to get them mixed up because the fittings are different sizes.
6 or 8 depending upon the engine.
On the passenger side of the engine , facing straight up and down
My 1995 Ford Explorer XLT , with 4.0 L OHV engine , automatic transmission and 4X4 had a shipping weight of 4,053 lbs
Go sit in your truck and close all the doors. Light stays on right? Put your key in the ignition. Does the chime start going off when you put the key in? If so, door switch or the GEM thinks a door is open. To find out which door... Leave the key in the ingntion. Turn to the on position. Even with doors closed, chime sounds once after a few seconds and door ajar light comes on and stays on right? Open each door one by one. The chime should sound each time you open a door. When you find the door that doesn't make the chime sound when you open it, that is the problem. (Don't forget to try the rear hatch and the hatch glass also!) To determine if the switch is bad or if the GEM is having a problem thinking the door is open, just unplug the suspected switch, close all the doors, and see if the problem stops. (don't forget to wait a second to give the lights time to go off) If unplugging the switch solves it, the replace it. If it doesn't, Ford can check your GEM to see if it is the problem. The switch is located in the latch assembly. Try sprayiny a lubricant (WD-40) or cleaner (carb cleaner) into the latch assembly and open/shut the door several times. This should loosen the dirt build up. The hatch adjar switch should also be located at the latch and again try doing the same thing to it. The sensors are in the door latches. Under the driver side dash, search for a bright orange 'solinoid' like deviceroughly 2 inches long and 1 inch around (it maybe about one inch square). Look while the alarm is sounding. Unplug the alarm. Tape the ends of the exposed wires.
If you're in the Northeast where the dampness and salt eat up cars, then yes, any older car will probably have electrical problems.
Another possible factor: previous owners may have tested electrical wires with probes that pierced the protective plastic on the wire. Left open, corrosion forms and shorts out wires. I've seen this on fairly new cars.
I own a '93 Pontiac Sunbird LE, my mother was the original owner, and we haven't experienced any electrical problems with her whatsoever... but then again, I live in the desert of California so that might have somethin' to do with it. Hope this helped!
I have a '93 Sunbird as well. I hit an animal with my car and the turn signal fell off. This created numerous problems with the wiring. I replaced the blinker and bulbs and then the left blinker signal stayed on when my lights were on. I replaced the flasher and still nothing. The guys at the auto parts store said it was a short in a wire but I have power, it just doesnt blink. Any suggestions?!
I used to own a 92 Pontiac sunbird, I bought it used with 90,000 miles on it so expected some issues. in the first 2 years I replaced the alternator 3 times, had constant problems with the lights, and radio sparadicaly going out. I then had a mechanic look at it and found that the battery's negative post was literaly hanging on by a thread. after replacing the battery I drove the car for another 3 years with out any major electrical problems.
Hello, I live in Mexico City, I own a Sunbird 90 convertible, i thisnk its a incredible car, but i have a electrical proble, the light on the dash board CHECK ENGINE is lighting, some time turn off and turn on while I�m driving, when the CHKENG lights the car feels a little weird, i repaired of the TPS sensor, Jack valve, fix the wires, scan the car with the computer, that it says nothing is bad, but the problem stills and I hate it, what can I do for that, it might be a short cut somewhere, but what? a light? convertible system?
Do you have any idea guys about it ?... please help me !!! I don't wnt to sell my car, I just want to fix it, besides bof that its a outstanding machine
Gabriel Karcher (52-55) 8589-6804
Hello !!! My name is Max Power, I living in Amarillo, Texas, I have a Sunbird convertible 90, the electrical system doesn�t work with my roof, I can�t open it, i send it to fix but this guys have no idea... and I don�t have the User Manual, two questions:
1.- Where can I find the User Manual Book for the Sunbird convertible 90 ?, with that I can Fix it by myself. 2.- What can I do if I want to replace my current engine 4 cyl. 2.0 l for the 3.1 V6 brand new, is there anyway tgo do it fine ?
I hope that anybody can help me out with this questions, congratulations for the Sunbird owners, be pacient fellows with your cars, if you treat them well they will survive with you, jaja, thank you very much for your attention and your answers.
Best Regards Maximilian Power
HELPi have a 92 Pontiac sunbird. I fixed the fuel pump and it ran great now all of a sudden it just stopped running. I put two coaialls in and a something shock i have no idea about cars as you can read but if you have a suggestion please let me know.. MY EMAIL IS Lonikiaforga87yahoo.com Thnx
I believe that is about ( 21 U.S. gallons ) I was looking at the Owner Guide
online and it shows 22.5 just like the 2002 redesign
vacuum hose dimgram for 1994 ford bronco
Spoilage is generally unmistakable - mold, sliminess, discoloration, abnormal odors, strange texture. These are all clues to tell you not to eat it. The old saying, "The nose knows", is true.
Most meats that have spoiled will give off a smell that is unmistakable. They can also get a green tinge to them, and feel kind of slimy to the touch. If you notice any of these signs it is best to just toss out the meat. Fresh meats have little or no smell to them and in the case of pork have an almost pink look to the meat. Beef should be a bright red and feel tender to the touch but not mushy.
Another way to tell that pork is bad is when you see that the expired date has passed and it doesn't smell as usual. But you should never test the pork by tasting because it can have a lot of bacteria or even toxin produced by bacteria that is not "killed" by cooking.
Another old saying, "When in doubt, throw it out!" is also important advice. The risk, no matter how small you believe it to be, is not worth taking.
* Lock or unlock the doors without using a key. * Open the liftgate window. * Activate or deactivate the autolock feature. * This code is located on the owner's wallet card in the glove box * Is available from your authorized dealer via scan code * Is marked on the computer module * 1995 thru 2001 is located in the jack storage compartment in the rear of your Explorer. First remove the panel to the jack storage compartment. Towards the front of this area you should see a metal box this is your auto-lock module(way up front next to your rear left passenger seat). On the back side of this is your 5 digit code factory preset code. It is hard to get to. To see it you will have to loosen, pull, use a flashlight or a mirror but it can be done. * 2002 thru 2007 is in the right panel behind the middle row window. It is below the seat belt mechanism. You have to pull out the top plastic panel off, then loosen the lower panel to be able to see the face of the computer module. The code is on a sticker on the face of the module. The factory set code cannot be reprogrammed but you can create your own 5�digit personal entry code. When pressing the controls on the keypad, press the middle of the controls to ensure a good activation. Up to three personal entry codes may be programmed to the vehicle. To create your own personal entry code: * 1. Enter the factory set code. * 2. Within five seconds press the 1 � 2 on the keypad. * 3. Enter your personal 5-digit code. Each number must be entered within five seconds of each other. * 4. Press 1 � 2, 3 � 4 or 5 � 6 to indicate which of the three personal entry code positions you wish to use. * 5. The doors will again lock then unlock to confirm that your personal key code has been programmed to the module. Tips: * Do not set a code that uses five of the same number. * Do not use five numbers in sequential order. * The factory set code will work even if you have set your own personal code. * If you program a code to a position that already contains a set code, the previously-set code will be erased. * 1. Enter the factory set 5�digit code. * 2. Within five seconds, press the 1 � 2 on the keypad and release. * 3. Press and hold the 1 � 2 for two seconds. This must be done within five seconds of completing Step 2. All personal codes are now erased and only the factory set 5�digit code will work. If the wrong code has been entered 7 times (35 consecutive button presses), the keypad will go into an anti-scan mode. This mode disables the keypad for one minute and the keypad lamp will flash. * One minute of keypad inactivity. * Pressing the UNLOCK control on the remote entry transmitter. * The ignition is turned to the 3 (ON) position. * To unlock the driver�s door, enter the factory set 5-digit code or one of the vehicle�s personal codes. * Each number must be pressed within five seconds of each other. The interior lamps will illuminate. * To unlock all doors and liftgate, press the 3 � 4 control within five seconds. * To open the liftgate window, press the 5 � 6 control within five seconds. * To lock all doors, liftgate and liftgate window, press the 7 � 8 and the 9 � 0 at the same time. * Note: The driver�s door must be closed. You do not need to enter the keypad code first. * Your vehicle comes with the autolock feature enabled. Note: The autolock feature can be activated/deactivated independently of the autounlock feature. Before following the activation or deactivation procedures, make sure that the anti-theft system is not armed, ignition is in the 1 (OFF/LOCK)position, and all vehicle doors, liftgate and liftgate window are closed. *Keyless entry key pad procedure * 1. Turn the ignition to the 1 (OFF/LOCK) position. * 2. Close all doors, the liftgate and liftgate window. * 3. Enter 5�digit entry code * 4. Press and hold the 3 � 4. While holding the 3 � 4 press the 7 � 8. * 5. Release the 7 � 8. * 6. Release the 3 � 4. The user should receive a horn chirp to indicate the system has been disabled or a chirp followed by a honk to indicate the system has been enabled. Autounlock The autounlock feature will unlock all the doors when: � the ignition is in the 3 (ON) position, all the doors are closed, and the vehicle has been in motion at a speed greater than 12 mph (20 km/h); � the vehicle has then come to a stop and the ignition is turned to the 1 (OFF/LOCK) or 2 (ACC) position; and � the driver door is opened within 10 minutes of the ignition being transitioned to the 1 (OFF/LOCK) or 2 (ACC) position. Note: The doors will not autounlock if the vehicle has been electronically locked before the driver door is opened. Your vehicle comes with the autounlock feature activated. * 1. Turn the ignition to the 1 (OFF/LOCK) position. * 2. Close all doors, the liftgate and liftgate window. * 3. Enter 5�digit entry code * 4. Press and hold the 3 � 4. While holding the 3 � 4 press the 7 � 8 twice. * 5. Release the 7 � 8. * 6. Release the 3 � 4. The user should receive a horn chirp to indicate the system has been disabled or a chirp followed by a honk to indicate the system has been enabled. The keyless entry touch pad can use two codes. The factory code and one personal code . To program your own personal code, select a 5 digit code that doesn't use 5 digits in sequence or the same button 5 times. Enter your factory code Within 5 seconds press the 1/2 button Within 5 seconds of pressing the 1/2 button, enter your 5 digit personal code, pressing each digit within 5 seconds of the previous digit. You can now use either code to operate the keypad # Sit in car, doors closed. Electronically unlock all doors using the power door unlock switch on the driver's door. # Insert key into ignition switch and turn from OFF to ON 8 times within 10 seconds with the 8th time ending in the ON position. (5 times on some models) # The doors should lock and unlock by themselves to signal programming mode. # Using your remote: lock the doors.
1. Find the tensioner that is holding pressure on the belt. You must remove this tension in order to remove the belt. Some tensioner's have a slot for a ratchet to be inserted to allow you to remove the pressure. Some have a pry point.
2: Turn the ratchet clockwise until enough tension is relieved to move the belt off of the belt tensioner.
3: Ford recommends replacing the belt tensioner every 100,000 miles.
4: After removing the serpentine belt check the back of the belt and smooth side pulleys for glazing. If these seem extremely glazed use a 400 grit wet dry sand paper to deglaze the surface (these surfaces rely on tension to turn them properly, if they are excessively slick they may slip)
5: Using the diagram on the top of the radiator replace the belt.
Total time should be 5-10 minutes if you take your time.
When it shows sign of wear i.e. glazing cracking, peeling
There should be a sticker in the engine compartment, somewhere in front
of the radiator, that shows the proper routing of the serpentine belt.
On the 4.0 L OHV engine the serpentine belt tensioner is located below the
Generally speaking if you follow the belt around all of the items it drives, you will come to a tensioner. (the only thing that doesn't have a fluid line or wires connected to it) The tensioner (spring loaded) applies downward pressure on the belt to make it tight and drive the items it goes around. It can be loosened by a box end wrench 11/16 or maybe 3/4 or in some cases a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar. Turn the tensioner in the opposite direction with one hand and remove the belt with your other hand. Reverse the procedure to reinstall the belt.
The Check Engine light is on because the computer has detected a problem with the emissions control system. Unless you fix whatever has caused the computer to set a fault code, it will come right back on. Depending on the model year of your vehicle and weather it is an OBD1 or OBD2 system, disconnecting the battery for a few minutes may reset the light, especially on an 1995 and older OBD1 system. Rarely will this work on a OBD2 system. On an OBD2 and some OBD1 systems, you need a scan tool to reset the light. Take it to any auto parts store and see if they will scan the system for you, free of charge. Depending on your state, they may accommodate you. The code they find will help to determine what is wrong. If you purchase the repair parts from them, they may reset the light after you make the repair. One thing to do before any of this is to check your gas cap. A loose gas cap will set the light. If you find that it was loose, tighten it, (3 clicks). The computer will turn the light off after a few driving cycles if that was the problem. == my 2 cents == The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSIONS of the vehicle.. Don't let it bother you as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say a small percentage of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have multiple computers aside from the powertain computer) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests or �monitors� are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. There are many different sources for the light to come on. Anything that caused combustion to fail, commonly called a misfire will set the light. Various sensors such as oxygen sensors that evaluate the exhaust before and after the gases are burned in the converter. Transmission codes may set the check engine light to appear. If the car is running okay, get it fixed in a reasonable amount of time such as within the month. It will probably save you fuel if you do. However if the Check engine light is flashing, you should be driving it as damage is being done to the converter. Some emission components are covered beyond the standard warranty. The converter for example is covered up to 80,000 miles by the manufacturer. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage. To start testing for the check engine light, you�ll need to find the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. There are self-tests for the oxygen sensor circuit, egr system, evaporative system to name a few. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related.
== Answer == Before you do anything, go to Autozone and use their loan a tool program to chech out an OBD-II code reader. Follow the instructions on the box, or if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself (it's really easy), have one of the store employees do it for you. My check engine light came on this past winter, and it turned out that one side of the engine was too lean. I remember the light came on when I started the explorer on a particularly cold day. Anyway, once you reset it, it probably won't come back on unless there is something wrong with some component.
== Answer == Take it to a garage and have them fix it is about the only way without "special tools". Otherwise: Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know.
The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage.
That is not entirely correct. An o2 sensor will not trigger a trouble code just because it has reached a preselected mileage. If the trouble code indicates a faulty o2 sensor it generally can be confirmed that it is faulty or something causing the trouble code such as a broken wire. To say that the check engine light is for emission system only is incorrect as well. The cars computers monitor a variety of things such as the air fuel mixture. The O2 sensors monitor the exhaust to ensure the proper mixture is accomplished. If you have an O2 sensor that has failed the computer will set the check engine light and not allow the system to go into "closed loop". This is when the computer will monitor a number of sensors like the "throttle position sensor" the "O2 sensors" and allow the computer to adjust the air fuel mixture. If the check engine light is on the engine will run a predetermined program and not make adjustments to provide the best performance and fuel economy. I think the best thing is to find out what trouble code has set the check engine light with a scan tool or have a tech do it for you. If it is an emission code that may not rest, such as a loose gas cap, then clear the code and see if it resets. If it resets, find out why and repair it.
If I remember correctly , it's in the right front passenger footwell , under the front
edge of the carpet , mounted on the toe board just to the right of the transmission
I have a '90 Mustang with cruise control. Mine wasn't working - the EEC IV code said "Speed Controller not working". I found that the plug was unplugged from the gearbox by the speedo cable. My guess, and it's only a guess, is that your plug is plugged in correctly, but not contacting properly - after a while, the water gets into the plug/socket and makes the contact. Get underneath the motor and check the connections are clean and tight. Also, try using a computer tester to drag the codes out of the ECU - it may give a better answer.
Check for vaccum leaks a pinhole can make cruise fail only sometimes,and when you climb a hill you decellerate and never go back to your original set speed good luck
If all obvious attempts fail, try the following:
Hit door panel with your hand, just below the outside door handle.
As hard as you can.
Use a foam pad to avoid damage to the door, (and your hand).
It has been known to work!
It worked on my car!!
remove the interior door panel. you will see a metal rod connecting your interior and exterior door handles. most of the time the rod comes loose from one or the other. reconnect the rod. theres not much space so you might need a pair of needlenose pliers. if that still doesnt work inside the door to the rear is a trip lever that after pulling will open the door. the lever can be stubborn but it will open the door. any service center should be able to open it for you.
If the door is jammed shut, it will not be possible to remove the door trim on most cars without destroying it. However, if you are able to roll the window down you should be able to insert a thin piece of metal (ie. wire coat hanger, slimjim etc.) and manipulate the door handle rod inside to pop it open. This is possible only if the reason behind the jam is mechanical and not structural.
My 1995 Ford Explorer XLT , with the 4.0 L - OHV engine , automatic transmission
and 4 x4 had a shipping weight of ( 4,053 pounds )
Power going into the pack and none coming out of it. Also a cracking sound as it shorts out.
50,000 miles is usually the average for rebuilt trannys in my experience. Of course there are exceptions like driving it the right way, etc and also getting a good mechanic.
But i think 50k is about what you will get.
A new tranny direct from the dealer is the better bet. It will cost you an extra $1,000 but it worth it
There will be a small lock tab on the switch plug. Some need to be pushedin, some need to be pried out, and I have on some Japanese connectors you squeeze on the sides to release. A small flat screwdriver is the best tool for releasing lock tabs.
the headlight on my ford explorer keep going on and off on it does not go off on the dashbroad i want to no what it is
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