at age 15

176.4

Depends on what year/type of engine (LT1, LS1, etc). If anyone has enough time and money, anything is possible.

try haynes.com

How do you install a starter in a 1977 Chevrolet Caprice Classic with a 5.7 liter motor?

You can find a wiring diagram for a Chevy Caprice 2000 online at places like Manuals Online or Modified Life. You can also find these diagrams at the Haynes Repair website.

yes

110 kph = 68.35 mph.

Look on the back of the rear end and write down the numbers and alphabets and call you r local autozone

Check the vacuum hose under the hood. May have a leak or have been disconnected.

Also check -

The blower - this includes its motor, fan and associated components/wiring. Next to check is the coil (this looks like a small radiator) through which the blower moves air is clogged. Check if the vents themselves are clogged.

This is a fairly easy job and waterpumps are cheap.

Drain the radiator by opening the petcock on the bottom of the radiator. In the event that your radiator was replaced previously without one, just pull off the lower radiator hose and drain it that way. The hose will really hang onto the neck so just work it with channel locks and a little elbow grease and be prepared to get wet. I suggest you catch the coolant and return it to a recycling center as it is really dangerous stuff.

Next, remove the radiator fan by using a socket on the four bolts. I usually just break them loose before I remove the serpentine (drive) belt. The tension from the belt really helps hold the fan from spinning when you are removing the bolts.

To remove the serpentine belt, take a 1/2" drive breaker bar and insert it into the square cutout on the alternator bracket and pull back. This releases the tensioner and you can pull the belt off. Keep in mind that the fan pulley is two peices so pay attention.

You do NOT need to remove the radiator but I strongly suggest you take a piece of cardboard and put it up against the radiator in case you slip with something. I know I have poked a couple holes in radiator causing me to break my promise not to cuss.

Now remove the bolts that hold the water pump on. Look at the new pump and determine where the bolt holes are located and orient yourself with the existing pump. Even after all the bolts are out you will swear that it is still bolted. They are usually really stuck so you have to give it a rap or two. I would not try to pry it off because it can damage the faces.

Once it is off take the time to clean the surface to remove old gasket material or after all your hard work, it will leak. I use a very sharp wood chisel and a straight edge razor blade. The time you spent on this part is worthwhile.

Use Blue RTV, nothing else. Coat the faces of the new water pump with a thin coat of Blue RTV. Set aside and use a small wire or brass brush to clean the bolts. Then coat each with a light coat of RTV. Some of them go into the waterjacket so just do them all. Back to the pump, let it skim for 15 minutes and don't rush it. Next, stick the gasket to the water pump faces and coat again with Blue RTV. Let skim 15 minutes, no less.

Put it back together. Don't forget to close the radiator petcock valve. Flush the system if it is nasty.

Fill radiator with about a gallon and a half of new coolant and run with the radiator cap off until you see good circulation. You won't see any until the thermostat opens which can take upto 15 minutes. Put your heater on as hot as it will go and turn the fan on high. This prevents vapor locks in the heater hoses.

Hope this helps. Top it off and take it for a test cruise.

VBd

I believe the answer is no. I have wheels that fit on a camaro, an s-10, and a gmc s-15. They don't fit on my 93 Caprice. Bolt pattern is different.

A float carburetor has a contained area called a bowl that holds fuel. The float shuts off fuel into the bowl to stop it from overflowing, then allows more fuel in as the carburetor needs it. This is a low pressure fuel system, many of which have fuel pumps running from the engines power rather than more modern electric pumps.

under hood driver side, you will have to remove black cover, on back side of cover the relays will be listed

Run the fuel located in the fuel tank. The relay command the pump as soon as you turn the ignition key. You hear the humming of the pump before you crank the engine.

Because you own a clone.

Caprice and Impala are effectively the same car, but with different options. There are many, many more Caprices in the world than Impalas, and with exterior differences just trim pieces, a lot of people will try to turn their workaday Caprices into zoomy Impalas by changing out the rims and trim. Inside the car, it's a matter of leather seats, a floor shifter, and some other appointments that are also fairly easy to change out.

The biggest difference is that all Impalas, but only a very few Caprices, had the 5.7 liter V8 with dual exhausts. Most Caprices had the L99 4.3 liter V8 (which is exactly the same, but with smaller cylinder bores and maybe different pistons) and a single exhaust.

116"

if seized up no

First remove the two Phillips screws holding the arm rest on. They are located down inside where you fingers would grab to pull the door closed. Next, remove the two large Phillips screws holding the door pull strap just above the arm rest. They are hidden under plastic cover plates at each end of the handle. Use a small flat screwdriver to flip the covers open. Remove the one Phillips screw in the recess behind the metal pull handle just above the window controls. After that, CAREFULLY pry up on the front edge of the window control pod. This is usually fake wood colored. If it doesn't pry up after a few tries you can leave it in until you get the door panel off and then disconnect it from the back. Carefully remove all wiring connectors from the window control pod. There are five or so and each comes off in a different way. Once that is done, you can pry out the plastic Christmas tree connectors that hold the perimiter of the door on. These might break or pull through the plastic during the process so go easy! It is quite handy to have the prying tool designed for this - $6 at your local AutoZone. The plastic connectors are positioned around the edges of the door panel - just pick a spot and start prying straight out. Work your way around until only the top edge by the window is still connected. Once the bottom is completely free, push up on the entire panel and the top edge will pop up and out. Reach around and remove the remaining wiring connectors while holding the panel a few inches away from the door. It helps to have someone hold the panel while doing this. Set panel aside and reconnect the window pod. You will need this to adjust the door mechanism to the right spot to work on. The window track rides on two plastic rollers that snap onto a little ball which is rivited to the scissor mechanism. These wheels tend to break or wear until they fall out of the track. Since you went through all the trouble of removing the door panel it's best to replace them rather than just pop them back in! Go back to AutoZone in the help isle and pick up two ($5/ea). Use whatever means necessary to pop the old wheel off. Bend the bottom of the track down a little and install the new wheel. Hold the metal ball in position and use a pair of channel locks to pop the ball into the wheel. It will go in HARD! Do not pry on the glass! Bend the track back up and reinstall everything back together. Use a light silicone lube in the track to keep things rolling. Test operation before reinstalling door panel. Good Luck!

6 to 8 quarts no more then 10 quarts

Approx. 185km/h

Try using a wrench.

the pressure at idle should be 40 to 44 psi

No spark would usually be the ignition coil.