install 350 heads with bigger valves works well for more torque at lower speeds

on tbi engines 2 injectors 2 wires to 1 injector same to other on seqential inj 8 injectors 2 wires each 1wire fused positive feed other goes to ecu is then switched electronically on and off by ecu

Not long. 1 bolt on retainer & it just pulls out of block. Note firing order before you pull any wires. Find #1, go around cap terminals tracing them to each cylinder. Should be something like 1,8,5,3,6,4,7,2. Bump eng to tdc on damper so no. 1 firing. Use crank bolt & can do by hand (clockwise) Mark no 1 on cap. Note position of housing in relation to manifold & mark. Remove cap & note position of rotor to nearest ref point & mark. Now pull it & replace. When you drop it in the gears will mesh & will engage oil pump so will turn almost 1/4. Sometimes you have to turn oil pump slightly if it gets bumped. you can use a super long screwdriver & turn the slot.You may have to stab it in a few times to get it in right position. Now throw wires back on, start & set timing. have fun:)

You just unscrew both sides of the filter but be sure to have a container for all the gas that's gonna spill out. Put the other one on with the "out" facing toward the engine and screw tightly back together and test for any leaks immediately. The fuel filter is located under the car on the passenger side right under the doors. You need to depressuriize the lines first, but it didn't hurt me to slowly undo the fittings on the filter and let the fuel drop into a container. You also must undo the mountinf bolt (easy, just make sure you put it back).

1 mph = 1.609334 kph

so

90 * 1.609334 = 144.84096 kph

GM has been putting "VIN Codes" on their motors since the 60's. The reason for this was security. If a car was stolen and disassembled it would make it easier for law enforcement to identify parts. That's why the vin is also located in several locations on the body as well. The VIN is located on a flat machined surface of the deck surface in front of the passenger side cylinder head. It is stamped into the block, not cast. Now, the casting number of the engine (which gives it no identity with a particular vehicle) is cast into the block on the transmission mounting crown behind the driver side cylinder head. If you are curious about what engine you have, you can just about be certain that your V-8 is a dished piston 305 with 64cc heads with 135HP. A few cars (9C1s and special order cars) had 350s in them which had 260HP and even fewer yet had 305s with flat top pistons and 155HP.

fuel pump

Around 3700-3900 lbs

There is no easy way to answer that question. Most classics are so old that their reliability depends on how much work is put into them. I've had a few classic cars, and the best way to make sure they are reliable is to check everything and replace what is obviously won out or rusted etc etc....

I can tell you this though, few engines are as tough as the old ford flatheads of the 1920's.

5x115

I don't doubt that someone makes a chip for the 305 but it will be expensive and you won't notice much difference. Here is the cheapest and easiest way to gain horsepower from your gutless 305. I am not busting your chops, I had a 1985 Caprice with a 305 and a 1992 Caprice with a 305.

Go an buy a K&N airfilter. These air filters kick class and will give you much more air intake which = horsepower. The air fliters cost me about $42 at Advance Auto. They also offer a K&N cold air system which replaces all the original air intakes with a healthy looking air sucker. From what I have read and heard, that gives you a dramatic increase in horsepower. I think they run around a hundred but I didn't check because I didn't know about them until after the fact.

Now to the down and dirty. To really add horsepower install a Flowmaster exhaust sytem. Flowmaster is the standard for performance exhausts. Plan to spend about a grand on that.

The bottom line is this, the 305CID, or as it is now known, the 5.0L Chevey engine was never much of a performance engine. It has small valves and a crappy cam so you can never expect much from them. If I wanted power I would drop about $4000 and buy a 350/350 crate motor but that would fry your TH-350 or 400 in short order.

An oil leak at the timing chain means that the seals are defective and must be replaced.

yes

340.99 mph = 548.8 kph

This is a tough one, just pull the turn signal lever towards you until you hear a "click", now don't yank it out of the housing, pull it again to switch back to low, if you have a tilt wheel lower it a notch because in some cars it, (the hi-low beam) won't pull far enough to switch with the wheel up all the way. jr

you would need a tool which is called a pressure tester, if you see a leak from the water pump during the test then your water pump is bad and need to be replaced a.s.a.p

The PCV system is not pulling in fresh air to the engine.

No, it did not. It had a throttle body injected engine, 3 different engines available. The LT1 260 HP "Corvette" engine did not debut until '94, ran thru 'til '96. That was a Tuned Port Injected motor.

It depends on what you are calling a "whining noise". If it's very loud sounding like screeching tires it could be a slipping belt. Otherwise it could be an alternator that is working too hard or perhaps failing. Have it checked at an auto parts store that has in-car diagnostic equipment.

prolly not

Yes, it will fit.

The trunk lock on a 1989 Chevrolet Caprice is replaced by removing the retaining clip and unscrewing the bolts holding it in place. The lock can then be pulled through the opening and a new lock put in place.

Drop the fuel tank of your caprice, take off the bolts and remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank. Upon putting in the new fuel pump, be sure not to abuse the level as they are fragile and prone to give you the wrong fuel reading on your gas gauge

If a die grinder is available and dropping the fuel tank seems daunting, read on, Otherwise just disregard the following.

If you're up to it, you could always go into your trunk, remove the carpet of said trunk and Very Carefully take a Die Grinder to the outside of the hump. Just below that hump is the fuel pump, doing this eliminates any need to drop the fuel tank for the fuel pump and makes it easily accessible. The problem with this is that if you cut any deeper than the metal of the trunk itself, you risk hitting the wires connecting to the fuel pump, so if this is attempted, be slow and sure you aren't going too deep with your cut.

Start at one of the top sides, yes a SIDE, do not completely remove the hump or the fuel pump will have no protection from things in the trunk like the spare tire; work your way around the bottom of the hump to make a sort of lid. This should allow you to lift up this part of the trunk to reveal the Fuel Pump, making it far easier to access and replace.

Mine is a 700r4