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You need to pull out the entire light from the out side it pulls out hard (has clips holding it in) found out the hard way. after unscrewing a few screws. On Certain models make sure to move to either the left or right (depending on what light) a little first

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If you are asking this question in relation to a networked laser printer this seems to be an issue with either a corrupt driver or a network error.

I have sorted mine out by simply downloading the updated driver from the printer manufacturer's website.

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Remove the transmission.

Take out the battery tray and remove the starter. Unhook the clutch cable and remove the bracket. Take out the speed cable and unplug a couple wire harness's. I removed hood of vehicle so i had more room. Support motor with a jack. Unhook the stablelizer bar and gear shifter. Put a jack under trans and crossmember. Unbolt the transmission and crossmember and it's ready to drop. Time your looking at 4 hours.

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.044 inch ( according to motorcraft . com )

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Just changed the starter in my daughter's '97 Aspire, two days ago. It'll help if you go buy the replacement starter prior to removing the old one. It cost me a little over $100 with a $30 core charge.

First remove the battery. You'll then need a 8mm, 12mm, and 14mm socket.

Remove the two 8mm nuts holding the starter to the bracket.

Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the bracket to the frame. Once their out, you'll have to clear the studs on the starter and pull the bracket out.

Remove the two 14mm bolts that hold the starter to the block(look at replacement starter for position).

Once these two bolts are out, undo the electrical connection (two wires) and the starter will come right out.

Reverse the process for installation.

It took me about 45 minutes to complete.

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I believe that is 3.4 to 3.6 quarts , with engine oil filter change

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Start by Putting a jack under the oil pan. Lift just a bit. Then take off the air intake, with the air filter (whole thing). Then there is a engine mount under it (on left side of car 'passenger' side) No remove the bolt and raise engine with jack. MAKE SURE THAT EVERY THING IS OUT OF THE WAY (FOR TO RAISE ENGINE). Now remove the belts (by moving the power stearing pully (top right 'little' to left) make it easy to remove the first belt. Now for the second belt remove the water pump pully (center top) and now both belts are removed. Now take off the drive belt casing (black casing behind water pump pully). Then remove (after marking) the timing belt. Then remove the water pump and replace. Then just go back in reverse steps! DONE

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Just had mine done at a shop at around 75,000 miles and the old belt look fine it could have ran another 50,000 miles. It's a hard job very tight space to work in. Have a good shop do it and change the water pump because it has to be removed when changing the belt. Tensioner should be replaced also.

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Buy a CD ROM Ford Shop manual off Ebay,has all specs pix and d iagrams you will ever need.

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Fuel filter is located in the engine compartment, driver's side between battery and firewall. Follow the fuel lines.

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before you worry about the relay the problem might be simple. first thing to check is the fuel pump initia switch. it's located in the rear hatch area, on the drivers side. you will see a small plastic cover in the side panel, remove that to see a red button. press that button and try again. it automatically removes power to the fuel pump in the even of a collision, it might have just tripped for some reason.

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Passenger side of the engine attached to the bell housing. the starter is on the underside of the vehicle close to the wheel it is on the passenger side.

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Depending on the year,You probably have bad plug wires or dist. cap. If you replace them it should take care of it.

If you change the plug wires and cap (and distributor rotor and plugs too) and still have the problem, check inside the distributor under/around the rotor for rust. If you see rust inside the distributor, water is getting inside. There's a gasket that the cap clamps down onto. If this is ripped, damaged, or hardened it will let water or moisture in and cause the motor to stumble on a rainy day.

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Remove the hubcaps and wheels. Remove the two large bolts that hold the brake caliper to the steering knuckle. pull the caliper out of the way. There are two large Philips head screws that hold the rotor to the hub. Remove them and slide the rotor off the hub. Just did this to my '96. Hope it helps

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I own a 96, so I don't know how similar the engine compartment configuration is. But, if it is like mine, you just simply remove the lid and filter and there are a series of bolts that are easily accessible. Be sure to disconnect the intake from the throttle body to make it easier on yourself.

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Follow the manual (Haynes, Chilton, Ford Factory).

After the old manifold is off, clean the mating surfaces. Install a new gasket (no cement). Bolt on the new manifold. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the torque specs in the manual following the procedure in the manual. Bolt it to the exhaust pipe (new gasket also).

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I used a old time E-brake cable adjuster. Basically it connects to the cable on either side of a J type hook when you tighten the j-hook it pulls the slack out of the cable. Be careful not to tighten to much as the cable would break. Some cables are enclosed and this cable tensioner won't work, It worked on my aspire OK.

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Or, just go buy a crank tool for $8. Be sure not to lose the clip, they can fire off very easily.

it's very simple, just take a shop rag (any old rag) and slide it between the base of the window crank handle and the door panel. move the rag in a see-saw motion while pushing it towards the crank handle. this will release the c clip that holds the crank onto the shaft.

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try filling the center of pilot bering with grease find a solid object that just fits in the hole give it a good wack with a hammer the grease will force the bering out hopefully good luck! it has worked for me but dont know aboutb a ford aspire. Another alternative is to remove the six bolts holding the flywheel onto the crankshaft and carefully remove the flywheel without dropping it. Place on a bench and use a brass drift or a socket that just fits the outside edge of the bearing while still clearing the bearing bore and drive out the old one. Use the socket that fits the outside race of the new pilot bearing to install the new pilot bearing, then re-install the flywheel and be sure to torque the flywheel bolts to the proper torque.

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They are self adjusting. Some sdjust when backing up and hitting the brakes and some by using the parking brake. You can also adjust them by removing the rear drums.

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Underneath your vehicle, a steel threaded cable comes from the back of one hub and is joined by a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission.

You might have to jack-up the back of the vehicle???

Pull the parking brake lever up sharply and then release it. Pull the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure.

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left rear of engine.

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The inertia switch is in the back on the driver side behind the paneling. It is mounted to a bracket.

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You take it to a machine shop. This is a job that requires serious numbers of special tools. If you want to mess with it, the most you can do is remove the steering knuckle.

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Next to the wiper motor.