yes and no...

all aspire suspension parts front and rear will bolt directly to the festiva body... however the parts are not the same so you have to change the entire structure over to aspire suspension.. the 2 cars share a few individual parts like axle beam and various nuts and bolt.

the aspire and festiva also have different wheel lug patterns so you need to have aspire wheels also and spare.... so if you change only the front or only the rear you will need to carry 2 spares.

According to the ( 1996 ) Ford Aspire Owner Guide :

The PREFERRED oil weight is ( 5W-30 )

With engine oil filter change :

The 1.3 liter / 81 cubic inch four cylinder engine takes :

( 3.6 U.S. quarts / 3.4 liters of PREFERRABLY 5W-30 )

change your throttle positioning sensor located on the intake manifold

The most easy way is to get a replacement form the junk yard. Yhat said i will admit I was heck bent on fixing mine so the mileage would be right. Mine would tick and in time the speed would jump. I tried replacing and lubricating the cable but it was in the speedomometer itself as it turned out.

So here is what I did and it has lasted as a "fix" for 2 years and 30,000 miles now. I removed the intrument cluster and then removed the spedomometer itself from the cluster. Its pretty straight forward on diassembly. I then filled a bowl almost full ot the rim with marvel mystery oil. I submerged the speedometer works from inotthe bowl butdid not let the face of the unit go under the oil. the face plate of the speedomemeter worked well in making this possible. I let the unit sit over night in the oil. I reassembeled it being careful not to get the oil on the faceplate as it would make the speeomometer look diffrent than the matte black finish on the rest of the cluster. It has worked well with the only "hindsight" remark being that the oil did weep back onto the faceplate in about 3/4 of a year time. Maybe next time I should shake the speedometer out a bit better to remove excess oil. But so far its working fine at 216,000 miles so until it fails I amhappy with the idea..

If you are asking this question in relation to a networked laser printer this seems to be an issue with either a corrupt driver or a network error.

I have sorted mine out by simply downloading the updated driver from the printer manufacturer's website.

This is water in the oil, usually caused by head gasket failure

Follow the speedometer cable into the transmission. The dipstick is at the end of the cable.

________________________________________________________

You're a dipstick, its a MANUAL transmission, they want to know where the "fill plug" is? ________________________________________________________

Actually the previous contributor is right. To check the MANUAL transmission fluid level you must remove the speedometer cable drive. There are marks on the drive end to show the level. This is also the filler for the transmission. I know it is not standard, remember this is a Korean car. ________________________________________________________ Correct- unscrew the bottom-most speedometer fitting, right on top of the trans. You will need quite a long funnel with a pretty small end on it to get fluid into the hole, and that is your only option. It's Mercon ATF, by the way. I don't use the dipstick feature because it's hard to find, hard to see, and hard to use. I just drained it and measured out the transmission's capacity. As long as you don;t have a leak, it will hold its level. Mine's got over 250,000 miles so far, and I've never had to top off my trans fluid. If you're doing much work on it, by all means buy a Haynes or Chilton Service Manual. Cheap as heck and has everything you'll ever need to know inside it. Get one at AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts or Pep Boys or any decent parts store. ________________________________________________________ Specifically for the Aspire 5-speed, first disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission with a crescent wrench. Remove the 10mm bold holding in the gear assembly. It is a tight fit, so you'll have to turn/wiggle it to slide it out. To add fluid, I recommend a funnel with at least a 12" hose to reach the filler hole. The drain plug is a 3/4" bolt, accessible through a rectangular opening in the frame brace bar beneath the car. The 1994 to 1997 SE or LE models all use the same 5-speed manual transmission. It's capacity is 2.5 liters (2.6 qts.US or 2.2 qts.Imp) using either Dextron III or Mercon ATF (don't mix, choose one). Don't use synthetic ATF unless it was recently rebuilt.

YES

Never mind, got it from all-data, BTW the haynes book is totaly wrong, what a surprise.

transmission cooler lines are common to leak

1.Most cars just unplug the electrical connector and remove the two screws and clean with spray carb cleaner and maybe a small tooth brush.

2.(Not to ruin the answer that you posted but using carb cleaner will only remove the gummy buildup contained on a dirty iac valve, the carb cleaner will leave a sticky film inside of the iac valve most likely to make it worse than before. the best thing for the iac valve is electrical parts cleaner being an electrical part it will do the same if not better cleaning the iac valve, it leaves no residue and will lubricate the spring located inside of the iac valve. after spraying with electric parts cleaner let dry and don't get anxious putting it on to early then re-apply it to the vehicle and you most likely saved yourself 50-550 dollars which is the highest I've seen could be more!) oh yeah and to remove it you have to remove the coolant inlet hose, the coolant passage hose, the air inlet hose, the electrical connector and the four bolts holding it on don't forget to remove the negative terminal from the battery just like when working with any electrical component! HOPE THAT HELPS!

I had the same problem. No easy fix. The trannie needs to be taken apart and the shift bracket( inside) has to be re welded. It cost me $11oo.00. You may want to take a chance on a used trannie. Parts could not be found to replace the bracket. Bill ________________________________________________________

OH HECK NO! At least not without checking the following: I have a 95, and twice now mine has done exactly what you describe, only it was free to fix and took about 30 seconds. Under the car, (yeah, you gotta get under it, but straddle a narrow ditch and you have room, or jack one side up) look for the shifting bar. It runs from directly underneath your shifter straight ahead to the transmission, and is simply a steel bar, nothing fancy. Check either end of it to see if the bar has simply come loose from the shifter bottom or the back of the shifter thingy on the transmission. The first time this happened, the bolt fell out of the bar at the shifter. The second time it had fallen out from the other end, at the transmission. I used a zip-tie to get myself home the first time, and a piece of wire the second time. Found a proper bolt and nut and fixed it in no time. I even inserted a few tubular spacers on the front bracket (around the bolt) to get rid of some slop, and MAN it took all of the looseness out of my shifter and made my car literally "click" into gear! Get the slop out! Anyway, I hope the dude above didn't have the same problem, and some unscrupulous mechanic just took him for a ride.

The first obvious answer is that you are using the wrong key. It is possible that one or more of the pins in the lock is stuck in the up position. try using some wd-40 or some other penitrating oil and work the key in and out for a while. A shot of compressed air in the lock after the oil may help. Another possibility is that the steering wheel was turned so that when the key was turned off and the pressure turning the wheel was released, it put pressure the other way on the ignition switch causing it to hold the key from turning. Try turning the steering wheel a little in either direction then turn the key.

The ( 1996 ) Ford Aspire owners manual shows :

5 w 30 (3.6 quarts / 3.4 liters ) WITH ENGINE OIL FILTER CHANGE

first is it automatic or manual? first check the major things like the axles to see if one of them is broken. if one is broken then the vehicle will not move. second kia/hyndai who made the ford aspire still cannot make an automatic transmission that is reliable. the dealers all stock the automatic tranmissions for all there new automatic models. that is why they have to offer a 100,000 mile 10 year warranty because they will break. but only after 100,000

The quote is actually from an unknown/anonymous source.

Don't know what you mean.

The best way is to use an oil filter wrench which you should be able to buy at your local tools or hardware store for about five bucks. Only use the wrench to remove the filter do not use it to tighten. Finger tighten only.

On the firewall next to the EGR vsv.