Oil drain plugs are nearly always on the backside of the oil pan...
That means if you are lying on the ground with your feet sticking out the front of the car, you're most likely NOTgoing to be able to see it!
Identify the oil pan and scooch up a little further underneath the car so you can see the back edge of the pan - then look/feel just up the backside of the pan and there is the plug!
I've done 5 Spring oil changes this week on my mini-fleet of Ford products - and it's always the same - once you know where to look.
15mm box wrenches work on most of the plugs - not always room for a socket wrench to fit up there.The oil filter is in the front corner, about underneath the passenger side headlight - requires a 'grab-the-bottom' type of filter wrench.NOTES:
Ramps & wheel chocks are another good way to make room.
From underneath, look in the area below the passenger-side headlight. It is tucked up into that corner.
take it to jiffy lube and tell them you need to check something as the oil is draining. They will take you beneath the car and you will see exactly where it is.
Down on the lower front side of the engine.
passanger side front of engine if it a 3.8 engineWays to describe the filter location
On the passenger side front of the engine, in front of the oil pan.
Drain the oil into an appropriate container from the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. Replace the oil filter located on the underneath / left side of engine, then refill
See "Related Questions" below for more information before starting your oil change.
Listed in the owners manual and on the drivers door post.
Most tachs have a green wire that goes to the negative side of the coil, and at least two more wires for hot and ground. Sometimes there are two hots. One for the tach and one for the light. Check inside your tach to determine which wire goes to ground, and you should be able to figure it out from there.
According to the ( 2005 ) Ford Five Hundred Owner Guide :
With engine oil filter change :
The 3.0 liter " Duratec " V6 engine takes :
( 6.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 )
Motorcraft MERCON automatic transmission fluid is used as the power steering
fluid ( according to the Owner Guide )
Depends on the level of restoration and what model Ford Galaxie, what engine, and what options. A 2 door hardtop and convertible is worth much more than a 2 door sedan or 4 door sedan. The bigger the engine the more it is worth. If it has the original engine and transmission it is worth more. As you can see there are many variables that effect price. For instance a 1965 Ford Galaxy 500 2 door hardtop with the 427 V8 and A/C in fully restored condition will be worth from $100,000 to $150,000. Whereas a 1965 Ford Galaxy 500 4 door sedan with a 390 V8 is worth around $5,000. Then there are lots of variants in between. It depends on what you have and how rare it is. Click the link to find out more.
I believe it is to the left of the air filter ( looking from the front of the vehicle )
It is- on the carb open the throttle all the way and look for something that's stopping it like a little black block take that out and your good to go
I assume it is the same as the 2004. You have to turn it while you are depressing it. It took two people to do mine. Once was turning while the other was pushing. Be careful not to damage the rubber boot around the caliper as well.
I am sure Ford has some fancy tool that does both at the same time but we just used a caliper depressor and adjustable pliers.
The trick is that the piston has to rotate and essentially screw itself back into the caliper.
There are two notches in the face of the piston that a 'special' tool fits into to help you rotate it while pushing in.
Late one Sunday afternoon was when I discovered this - no stores to get the 'right' tool from. I actually fabricated one out of a piece of galvanized pipe connector -and lots of grinding. Crude, but functional.
Many parts stores have a tool loaner option. You may even find this tool at affordable prices if you check around.compress caliper pistonAssuming disc brakes, in 2004 up, the old c-clamp trick don't work any more ,the piston turns and presses at the same time, on some models, left handed. You will need a special tool.
Yes there is a tool for retracting the rear caliper piston.
The piston actually rotates as it retracts. The tool then has 2 prongs that fit into the face of the piston so you can rotate it while pushing inwards.
FOUND A TOOL THAT WILL WORK
I was having the same problem and went to Harbour Freight and decided to buy a caliper tool not kowing how to fix the problem yet. After reading this article I realized that I was lucky enough to buy the right tool to do the job. The tool does both push and turn and by only one person! it cost me $20 and it saved me a huge headache.
You have to turn it (caliper piston) as you are depressing the piston back into the caliper. You can't just "jam" it in. I used a caliper tool (for depressing the caliper) and turned the piston with large jaw pliers. This gives both inward pressure and the turning motion. I turned it clockwise and that seemed to work. There is a special tool you can buy to turn the piston as you push it back into the body of the caliper but if you work carefully and you are VERY aware of the rubber boot (don't rip it) then pliers are ok (don't tell the Ford dealer). Cover the pliers with something so you don't scratch/ruin the piston. The front brakes are just a standard push - don't need to turn them. Why do the back brakes work this way? Has to do with the parking brake. If you look you can see that it is attached to the caliper on the rear.
Better take it to or leave it to the experts, like car shops
the oil drain plug is located on the back side of the engine. look for a metallica/grey oil pan that is facing towards the rear of the car,locate the bolt that uses a 5/8ths inch socket/ratchet. turn counter clockwise and you should be good to go
5 x 114.3 Offset: 34-50mm
Center Bore: 63.3
Hardware: 12 x 1.50
where is low pressure valve on a 2005 ford 500? i am trying to add freon
I have a 2006 Ford 500 and am having problems with my cruise control. I can set it but it only holds for maybe 5 minutes then shuts off and may or maynot reset. I have replaced my front rotors with aftermarket rotors does this have an effect? Can you help me resolve this issue. Thank you
check the back of the compressor, they hide the there on the older models. volvodoctor
Be more specific. Are you looking for specific parts of the SJB configuration? Or are you looking for how to configure the SJB? On a more basic level, configuration of the SJB is programming it so that it knows how the vehicle is equipped and what features to enable. Data is written using the Ford diagnostic tool during module installation that properly configures the module.
There is no jack for an mp3 player. mp3 on the radio means it will play a CD that has music in mp3 format.
It depends on what model stereo you have with the car, IF you car has one, there is an audio in jack located on the inside of the center console box, forward side, next to the second power jack that is located in there. It would be enabled with the aux button on the stereo.
Also, depending on the radio that your car is equipped with, you may be able to have it added. There is an add-on for some versions of the car's radio.
There is also a notch in the forward side of the box for you to run wires through and still be able to close the box.
Otherwise, if the radio says mp3 on the face, you can load up a data CD with about 480MB worth of mp3's.
According to the International Organization of Motor Vehicle Manufacturers, in 2007 53,049,391 cars and 20,103,305 commercial vehicles were produced worldwide, for a total of 73,152,696 vehicles produced in 2007.
See links below for breakdown by country.
front of Ford Five Hundred
how hard is it to change the oil pump in the transfer case in a 2006 ford 500 awd
After looking at a couple of diy sites, I found that one must:
1. Remove the two screws at the outside back of the tail light cover
2. loosen the tail light cover from the two clips at the front of the cover by gently prying it toward the rear. Fingernails worked for me. The bottom clip seemed easier. If it is too tight, try a screwdriver near the bottom, then near the top prying toward the rear of the car.
3. the top light is the backup lamp (white), and the bottom light is the brake/turn/rear light (red).
4. rotate the lamp 1/3 turn to remove and replace.
6. replace the cover by aligning the screw holes then pushing the cover into the clips and replacing the screws.
i just replaced the plugs on my 2007 ford five hundred...not quite like swapping plugs on an old 5.0L but not impossible either...first, if you are not ready to take your intake manifold off, take it to a shop...second make sure you have the right tools...something specific is the T-20 torx bit you'll need to pull off a "valve" on top of the manifold just after the throttle body...
i removed the upper airbox, air intake tube and disconnected the hoses attached to it...careful with the mass air sensor connector clip...
then i disconnected everything attached to the manifold and throttle body...
hoses(i'd say about 5 or so)
throttle body motor clip
then remove the bolt between the 2 torque arms that are attached at the engine and one at the strut tower brace...the top arm will swivel to the side so you can reach behind the manifold...
there is a double vacuum hose grommet that needs to be removed to access one of the EGR valve attachment bolts...
the hardest part for me was accessing the three 5/16" bolts that attach the EGR valve to the manifold...in the back behind the area just after the throttle body...you can loosen them and finger them out the rest of the way...you can reach 2 of them from under the throttle body with a 12pt combination wrench(don't drop it)...the other one i used a 1/4" socket wrench with a short extension(5/16" socket)...in hindsight i would have tied the wrench to my wrist just in case i lost any grip...
after that, it's on to the manifold...there are 8 bolts that go all the way to the heads and there are 4 smaller screws(3/16" i think) that attach the upper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold...the fuel rail is attached to the lower intake manifold which stays behind...you won't be able to take off the whole lower assembly because of the fuel rail...
wiggle the upper intake manifold and just lift it out of the way...i did not completely remove the manifold...there are still a couple things still attached to the manifold...just move it enough to where you can access the rear bank...
remove the coil-on-plug retaining bolt...pull the boot...pull the spark plug...install new spark plug(don't forget anti-seize)...repeat for all six...compare old and new plugs and make sure you have the right plugs...seems like an obvious thing, but I've met some crazy people...
now reverse the order to put it all back together...i did this in my driveway in about 3hrs...i did not use any manual, just some simple mechanical knowledge...if it seems too complicated, then it probably is and you should rethink the notion of even attempting this...i think i covered everything you'll need to know...just don't break anything...
"directional tires" refers to tire with eitherasymmetrical or rotational tread patterns.
Pros of rotational tires:
1) generally better resistance to hydroplaning than traditional tread patterns
2) generally better stopping than traditional tread patterns
3) generally better heat dispersal than traditional tread patterns
4) typically look pretty nifty
Cons of rotational tires:
1) cannot "cross" during tire rotation
2) if used for a full-size spare, likely to lose benefits in "pros"
3) Are more likely to be "performance tires" (check with your tire seller) with a shorter expected tread life than some other tires. This is not always so.
Pros of asymmetrical tires:
1) Typically better cornering stability
2) Allows for multi-compound tread for reduced shoulder wear (longer tread life at the edges) and better temperature control
Cons of asymmetrical tires:
1) must be replaced exclusively in pairs (axle sets) to prevent 'tire pull'
IF you have the black buttons on the steering wheel, on the RIGHT side, I believe the RESET button gives you the option to do the System Check. When the Oil life appears on the screen hit the RESET button again. A screen will then show up asking if you want to reset the oil life to NEW, if so select RESET again. The timing is very hard. It took me 3 tries my 1st time.
Asked By Wiki User
Asked By Wiki User
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.