HI ! I HAVE A 95 ACCENT. IT GOT HIT ON THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE. NOT LONG AFTER THAT THE DAMAGE LED TO THE HORN SHORTING OUT AND ME GOING DOWN THE STREET GOING "MMMMMMNNNNNNNNNAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH !! " ALL THE WAY. SO I KNOW.... THE HORN IS LOCATED UNDER YOUR DRIVERS SIDE TURN SIGNAL. I THINK THE EASIEST WAY TO REMOVE THE DRIVER'S SIDE SIGNAL LAMP, THAT WAY YOU CAN EASILY REACH TO IT.
It could be one of a number of things. Try a new air filter first. Next the exhaust recirculation valve may be gummed up, this can be removed and cleaned out and is found at the front centre of the engine. Or it may be the mass air flow meter, part of the tubing coming out of the air filter. This has two mesh gausing across the tube and close together, one fine and one with larger holes. These can trap dirt and flies if the air filter isn't sealed right and when even partly cloged the engine can't breath properly.
Hope this helps.
First drain it by releasing bottom hose,then remove top hose.
Removing the offside intercooler hose is awkward but makes the job a lot easier later due to lack of space.
Remove front grill (torx screws, 2 on top,2 inside grill under headlights & release side clips)
Slide out both clips from lower radiator lugs (from underneath car).may be better done before you drain it.
Remove both headlights (height adjusting motors are a bayonet type push and twist fitting )
Remove temp sensor wires,unclip and move aside fan wiring, one tiny torx screw fastens a wiring harness to the nearside of the radiator,remove this.
Remove the top slam panel (4 bolts) (if you leave the cable attached put ample rags aronud each end to prevent scratching and support it out of your way)
The complete radiator, intercooler and fan assembly can then be lifted out as one and split later, but be warned the original Renault rad is heavy and is best done with 2 people to aviod damage.
I changed mine this March and it cost me £138 delivered from autokool-ltd via eBay (can I say that on here) As I recall that was how I did mine, nothing to difficult apart from getting to the inner font grill screws.
Cam-belt change on Espace III (1998- 2003) is 70,000 miles. The car has a G8T turbo diesel engine. You may be asking about the newer Espace IV model.... not sure about that one. I'm sure your dealer will tell you (take a deep breath before they give you the cost!)
Although the service mileage is 70,000 it is quite safe to let it go to100,00 miles which apart from saving miles/money is easier to remember. It can cost between £200 and £300 and is not rocket science. However if you go to 140,000 you will break the belt. This will break cam followers and may bend valves. If you go that route expect to pay nearly £1000.
Incidentally every belt change it is a good idea to change the water pump at the same time. It will add only £50 to the bill and G8T turbos have a habit of having water pumps go about 150,000.
Later Espace 2.2 (mine is 2005) is supposed to have a cam-belt after 5 years. Mine has only done 29000 miles and my local - non Renault - garage says don't bother. Out of interest I checked with the Renault garage who quoted £710! With discount that would be £576. I don't think I will bother. Incidentally when our Fiat 2.8 motor home reached 5 years we were advised by the caravan magazine to get it done although, like the Espace, the mileage was low.
seals to the cam shaft cavity on the injectors are faulty allowing the oil to leak rather than recirculating its intended path to the sump.
The additional fuse box is fitted to the near side inner wing panel .There is a large black plastic cover fitted. There are numerious relays also in this compartment. Hope this helps. goos luck god bless
square socket can be purchased from any good motoring shop (halfords, motorworld etc)
There could be a fault with the wiring for the airbags underneath the both front seats as i have researched may be whats wrong with mine as when i turn on my ignition the airbag symbol appears with a tone sounding followed by the word SERVICE.
There could simply be a bad connection on one of these wires Maybe Disconnect The Battery and leave for a while so as not to trigger the airbags or remove the fuse if your sure which one it is but id disconnect the battery myself much handier than messing around with fuses Airbags can hurt when they deploy so be warned. when i get round to sorting this fault with mine i will be cutting each wire one by one each time rejoining the same wire to the one it was connected to in the connector obviously bypassing the connector i will rejoin the wires with electricians connector block also known as terminal block. This is what i also use when wiring in after market stereos etc hope this helps you.
It's a pretty effective immobiliser. What happens is the immobiliser unit sends a coded message to the engine management computer, and without it, it's a no-go situation. There's no amount of re-wiring going to bypass the thing, although I have seen a couple of websites which offer to 'unlock' your immobiliser so that it permanenly sends to correct code, without the need to see a keyfob again. Probably best to try a Google.
the fusebox is found on the passenger side floor,under the mat,you need a screwdriver to gain access in my 1996 (uk N plate), it's in the top of the glovebox.. To add to the answer above, there are five different sets of fuses on the Mk 2 Espace. Mine is also on an N plate. There is the main fuse board which is clipped in the top of the glove compartment. This has a circuit board carrying a number of fuses and relays. Exactly what is installed will vary with the model and the equipment installed. There is also another bank of fuses and relays above and to the left of the glove compartment accessable over the top side of the glove box. Very difficult to get to without stripping the glove compatment out. There are three sets of fuses under the bonnet. One set under the engine managment computer on the off-side of the engine bay. This carries the fuse for the horns and the air compresor if air horns are fitted. On the nearside there are two fuses boxes one at the top which carries a number of fused relays and a bank of mini blade fuses and three maxi blade fuses ( A 50 Amp and two 30 Amp) The main cooling fans for the radiator are protected by these fuses. The smaller bank carries two fuses for two of the heater fan settings. The final fuse box is lower down on the side wall of the engine bay below the holder for the Jack and hidden behind the air cleaner. Another job to get to that one as the air cleaner has to be removed to open it.
On steering column directly below steering wheel. Behind a plastic cover.
The cylinder head torque specs are;
stage 1: 30 Nm-
stage 2: 50 Nm-
stage 3:105 Nm
Start the engine, allow to run for 20 mins then switch it of and allow to cool for at least two &half hours. slacken each bolt of (IN TURN) and re tighten to:
a torque setting of 105Nm.
The sequence is a little harder to set out... there are 17 head bolts all in. Looking at the engine (front). Left side there are 4 bolts. Middle there are 5 bolts. On the right side there are 8 bolts. number from front to back:
left side. 12,4,5,13...
Tightening sequence should start with No1: then 2 & 3 and so on, in a ever widening circular motion. to prevent head twist... DO NOT FORGET TO REPLACE THE HOLE SET OF HEAD BOLTS... It is a nightmare to get broken ones out.
Read the relevant section in the handbook!
Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem
The diagnostic port connector is in the "fusebox" - which contains one of the cpu's underneith the front passenger side footwell, the near vertical part eg where the pedals would be for the driver. Lift the carpet and undo the cover you find there. It's a CAN bus. email@example.com
My understanding of exhaust smoke is that Blue is oil, Black is unburnt fuel, White is unburnt diesel on cold start. The main question would be, how much smoke and when does it do it?
Pioneer remote control? Radio display integrated into the dash? The radio is under the drivers seat. Remove this seat (disconnect battery for 24hrs and take care with airbag wires!) and you can take off a plastic cover and a carpet flap to reveal all!
end of left side light operator lever
do you mean the horn switch or the horn its self, the latter is found under or behind the bumper on the drivers side. you will have to remove the bumper to get to it.
The belt is quite easy to change on the master van, mine is the 2.2 diesel. you are supposed to have a special tool to raise the tensioner.
I don't have one so what I do is to slide my trolly jack under the tentioner, take a long flat blade screw driver (an old one)place the handle into the jack's cup. the slot end of the screw driver goes into a slot located on the tensioner wheel, this is a little fiddly and may take a few attempts.
Once the wheel has been suitably raised the old belt can be pulled free, place the new belt onto the pullies, taking care that it runs in the same order as the old belt, the belt will be tricky to get over the final, lower pulley, take care here as this pulley is plastic, insert an Allen key into the center of the lower pulley and turn to wind the belt on, do not attempt to leaver the belt into place!
Hope this helps, I spotted this questopn while looking for information on a Kangoo steering rack! don't you love French cars
Obtain a long-reach Philips head driver. Lift the bonnet. Over each headlight you will find a pair of holes - each around 1cm diameter. Poke the screwdriver through for about 20cm and it should engage with a Philips head screw. There is one screw on each side for up/down and another for left/right.
On my Espace (1.6 or 1.8 - not sure) there is a thin tube about the thickness of a biro, just right of centre of the engine, and about 4 inches from the top of the head (as you're looking at the engine with the bonnet up). I believe that adding oil is simply a case of pulling off the cap and topping it up using the tube that comes with the bottles of oil. However, I also believe that having too much oil can damage the box. In fact, I believe that is how I accelerated the demise of my box. So - it's necessary to check the level needs topping up before adding any oil. Alas - I won't explain how to check because it isn't really a DIY job. I'm sorry to say that it needs a mechanic to do that
its right in front of the radiator.
The firing order is 1-3-4-2 remembering that the French do everything the wrong way round and No. 1 cylinder is at the back of the engine at the flywheel end and No 4 is at the radiator end of the engine. This refers only to the 4 cylinder petrol engines.
With Espace bonnet up, look at right side top of radiator. Follow top hose back into the engine compartment. Under the air filter box the top hose joins to an aluminum housing. The thermostat is inside that housing.
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