The Owner's Manual says the gap is noted on a decal in the engine compartment.
The gap is also cited in the Owners Manual as .052-.056 (around page #261 for 2001)Taking the Cowl off is the only way to go...
If you have have large hands or arms there is only one way to get'r done. The three plugs in the front are self explanatory. They are just tight. Three in the back, now that's the whole problem isn't it.
The section that has the wipers on it has to come off. Take the wipers off. They unbolt and pull off. Next the black piece there are plastic screws. unscrew them and pull them out along with the little plastic sleeve they are in. pull off the washer fluid line. Using a small pry bar or clip tool carefully pry this piece off from around the windshield.
Pull this piece off. Next the metal part. This has your wipers bolted to the underneath side. Undo the electrical connection from the the wiper motor. There are several screws holding this piece on. Several on the sides and middle. Remove them all. DO NOT UNBOLT THE WIPER ASSEMBLY. The whole metal piece will come out with the motor attached still. (good time to replace the wiper motor if it is bad)
After this piece is removed you will see two box type things the one in the middle is the cabin filter the other toward the firewall goes inside the vehicle. Remove the one on the firewall to have complete access. Only two nuts holding this on.
Now you should be able to reach the plugs in the back. Replace the spark plug wire at this time also because it is the only way to see the coil that they all attach to. Assemble in reverse. Have fun. I did this just two weeks ago.See "Related Questions" below for another write-up on removing the cowl
Not too easily. I managed it by removing as much of the clutter (such as air filter assembly, etc.) as I could and just reached around the back of the engine. I have long arms, so this might not work for everyone. It was difficult as well as a major knuckle skinning exercise - when I was finished it looked like I had knitted a sweater with barbed wire. I would classify this job as one that is worth paying someone to do if you can afford it.
I changed my spark plugs on my 1999 Windstar 3.8L , the easiest way I could find was to remove the wipers and the cover in front of the windshield then they're is another one underneath I remove this one as well , took me about 30 minutes to change them and put everything back the way it was .Hope it can help !
On my 95, I raised the car on ramps to change the # 3 plug, the one that is closest to the drivers side then I was able to reach around from above and get the #1 and # 2 plugs.
I pulled loose the wires from the coil for more room to reach behind the engine but didn't have to remove anything else. it is a long reach and my arm was kind of sore from the scrapping it took but I din't get ay broken skin doing it.
I have a 1996 Windstar and I put the front end on jack stands, so I could get underneath. Then from below, you can see the three plugs.
Changed it on my 99 Windstar today and it was not that bad. Raise the van up (preferably on the passenger side) and come from underneath. The one on the passenger side requires you to reach from the side, behind the wheel. The other two require you to reach through an area just above the transmission pan (yes there is enough room there).">
I had this issue the other day. I evaluated the situation "too" much as usual, but was happy with my choice. Coming from the top by removing the panels on the cowl area was not that hard and there was adequate access to the plugs. Also you do not have to jack-up or crawl and work under the van (biggest bonus!).
The front ones are pretty obvious and straight forward. It's the back 3 of course that are the 'pain'...
Because I have long arms, I was able to reach around the backside and more or less do the plugs by feel.
Many others here have suggested coming in from underneath the vehicle to get at the back 3. If I hadn't already done mine, I would try it for sure!
There are 6 plugs. Three will be on the front of the engine and three toward the rear of the engine. (If you are standing at the frnt of the van) Look between the radiator and the engine block. It is a ways down. You will see three plug wires. One for each plug. The rear plugs will be in the same place except in the rear part of the engine.
You need to raise the vehicle, then access the plugs from beneath, working around the exhaust. Not an easy task, but can be done. Or, you can take it to a reputable mechanic, and have them do the job.General instructions for replacing spark plug wires
I understand that one can lift the vehicle on ramps, crawl underneath and gain access to the spark plugs, you might have to feel for the plugs use your rachet to loosen and place back the new plugs (NGK plugs have a 0.054 inch gap for 1998 Windstar models) . Or if you prefer you can come from the top after removing the air filter housing and some additional components such as the black cowl cover for the windshield wipers. Hope this can get you started. Thanks
1 at a time!
Simply remove each end of the old wire, and disconnect from the holders between the ignition coil pack and the spark plug.
Re-install the new wire following the same path, and insert into the wire holders.
NOTE: Do this 1 wire at a time to ensure the firing order is not changed!!
If you reach around on the left side you can feel the plugs. You can take some of the cowl off but it is of little help. Not easy but you can do it with a little time...
I just finished the job earlier in the week. If you have access to a hoist, I am told you can feel for them from underneath. I looked at doing that from under the van and decided I would rather go from above.
If you wish to remove them from above, as quoted above, remove the windshield wipers, the plastic cowl skirt, and then the plastic cowl itself. This will allow you to "hug" the engine to feel the three plugs, but it is not a pleasant job, nor a speedy one. In hindsight, I think it would have been worth paying someone with a hoist to change them from underneath. It took me almost 1-1/2 hours start-to-finish, including multiple scratches, one minor burn, and a few choice words for the engineers who decided this was "OK".
U have to take of the cowl cover under the windshield, wipers off. I think the coil pack is to right of the engine on that model. I found it easier to change the them from the top of the van. I jacked it up and found less room to work with from under the car. Even from the top its a tight squeeze.
You pay someone to do it! LOL seriously unless you are mr gadget it is not worth it to do it yourself. there are two ways. take off the cowl ans use a spark plug wrench with a flexible attachment and get really frustrated or put it up on a lift and then it becomes a little less difficult. I did this once. (and I am very mechanically inclined) i have paid the 200 bucks to have it done since then
Take the panel that holds the windsield wiper motor, just below the windshield off. It only has about four bolts and once removed there is room to get to the back three plugs fairly easy.
Actually the rear spark plugs are not that bad to get to once you know how. I have a 98 3.8L and replaced the plugs myself. It will take about an hour and a half to to though. It should be the same for the 96 as well. First you have to remove the antenna and the wiper blades. Then remove the screws holding down the plastic panel covering the back part of the engine compartment. Under that you will find more screws holding down the panel that holds the wiper motor. Unplug the wiper motor and remove that panel. Once removed you have lots of room to access the plugs at the back. I used an old blanket and placed it over the intake plenum to make it a little softer for my knees and had no problem to replace the plugs. If you are handy with tools I am sure you can save yourself lots of money this way rather than over an hour of shop wages in a garage.
you can either jack your van up, supporting it on jack stands & blocking the rear wheels,and using some extentions, universals & socket & socketwrench. you can get to them from the bottom. Or you could remove the wiper arms & cowl and get to the spark plugs from the top. brewski
Put your car up on ramps and then you can get them from under. Make sure the car is cool and then you have no problem. I just did mine on a 1997 windstar.
Another way -which is what I had to do with my 98windstar gl.--is to remove the front cowl where the wipers are. This was a whole lot easier for me than messing with jacks and the sort..
I have a 2000 SE with the 3.8 Liter engine. It is a real pain getting to the rear plugs, but I found that I had to remove the throttle body and air bellows to get your right hand around back on the right (as you are looking at it from the front bumper) side. There is already barely enough room on the other side for your left arm. First thing to do is use compressed air to clean out the plug wells. You will have to lay over the front hood latch area and you can get each arm around the engine to work blind. You can fit a mirror there to help locate things, but you will be working blind for the most part. Getting the boots off is a little painfull, but feel with one hand to locate each boot and twist and pull with the other. For the plugs, I used a 3/8" breaker bar for best control and a short extension to the plug socket. There is room back there to swing the handle as needed and the breaker bar provides a little more torque with less effort. It is handy to have either a little handle on the extension or a stubby ratchet to get the plug out by hand once you have broken the torque. The first time, it took me a couple of hours to get to them for inspection, but the next day, I was able to replace them in about 1/2 hour. It ain't pretty, but you basically have to lay over the hood latch and engine to reach around there to work. Fortunately, the plugs are platinum and can last 100K miles so you should only have to do them once or twice.
Good luck with it. Chuck the driveway mechanic.
A better alternative is to remove the two-piece cowl below the windshield. You will have to remove the wiper arms, but you will have much more room to work.
++ added info ++
Removing the cowling and wiper mechanism is a must. The wiper is attached to the cowl, the washer hose has to be disconnected. A small puller gets the arms off the mechanism posts. Also some of the vacuum hosing can be removed, instead of damaging it as you yank and pull on wires. If replacing the plugs at 100,000+ miles, why not do the wires at the same time. For all the trouble, its good preventative maintenance. Take care to note the order they assemble on the coils and match their lengths. Use silicon on boots at the plugs and at the coils too.
you will have to remove the piece that goes from fender to fender with the wipers on it. it's not as hard as it looks. also a good time to add brake fluid.
First of all, the engine HAS to be COLD (overnight) so park it where you'll be working on it. Then, either remove the cowl (plastic part just below the windshield), then the entire windshield wiper assembly (again, whole plastic piece now visible once the plastic cowl piece has been removed). Now you can gain access to the rear plugs/wires, etc. If you want to go further, remove the upper intake, but unless you really know what you're doing, don't attempt this. Get ready to get really dirty and you have to use the "feel" method and plenty of time and patience; it's a b!t@h...The reason the enigne HAS to be cold overnight is due to the aluminum cylinder heads which will strip if the engine is hot (besides burning yourself). The best thing to do is first spray penetrating lubricant around each spark plug, then blow out the holes; then break loose each plug, more penetrating fluid and more blowing out, then remove the plugs. Prior to installation and after gapping each plug, put a light coating of oil on the threads and DON'T OVER-TIGHTEN them. Hand install first, making sure they go in easily; if not, clean the head threads and start again. The plugs should "bottom" out by hand, then just give them a firm tightening with the spark plug socket (using a 3/8" drive ratchet). You shouldn't have to give it more than 1/4 turn MAXIMUM after plug bottoms against the head. That should do it! Good luck!
-Andrew (Ford mechanic for 35 years)
The front spark plugs are fairly easy to get to, just be careful in pulling the boots off of them if you are not replacing them, because you could pull the metal snap end off. Make sure the engine is cool and grab as low as you can on the end of the plug wire attached to the plug. The back ones are fairly easy to get to also providing that you get them from underneath the van. There is a section between the block and the firewall that allows you to get to them. The best thing to use here is a 6" extension with a universal joint (wobbler) on the end of it, as to allow you to get into some tuff spots. Good luck!
I have a 2000 SE with the 3.8 Liter engine. It is a real pain getting to the rear plugs, but I found that I had to remove the throttle body and air bellows to get your right hand around back on the right (as you are looking at it from the front bumper) side. There is already barely enough room on the other side for your left arm. First thing to do is use compressed air to clean out the plug wells. You will have to lay over the front hood latch area and you can get each arm around the engine to work blind. You can fit a mirror there to help locate things, but you will be working blind for the most part. Getting the boots off is a little painfull, but feel with one hand to locate each boot and twist and pull with the other. For the plugs, I used a 3/8" breaker bar for best control and a short extension to the plug socket. There is room back there to swing the handle as needed and the breaker bar provides a little more torque with less effort. It is handy to have either a little handle on the extension or a stubby ratchet to get the plug out by hand once you have broken the torque. The first time, it took me a couple of hours to get to them for inspection, but the next day, I was able to replace them in about 1/2 hour. It ain't pretty, but you basically have to lay over the hood latch and engine to reach around there to work. Fortunately, the plugs are platinum and can last 100K miles so you should only have to do them once or twice. Good luck with it. Chuck the driveway mechanic. A better alternative is to remove the two-piece cowl below the windshield. You will have to remove the wiper arms, but you will have much more room to work. ++ added info ++ Removing the cowling and wiper mechanism is a must. The wiper is attached to the cowl, the washer hose has to be disconnected. A small puller gets the arms off the mechanism posts. Also some of the vacuum hosing can be removed, instead of damaging it as you yank and pull on wires. If replacing the plugs at 100,000+ miles, why not do the wires at the same time. For all the trouble, its good preventative maintenance. Take care to note the order they assemble on the coils and match their lengths. Use silicon on boots at the plugs and at the coils too.
1996 Ford Wind star 3.0 Motor
Changing 3 Rear plugs best way and same way i do mine. Is from the top of the engine carefully reach around intake from passenger side you can reach all 3 plugs in this position, carefully break loose plug may have to put extension in there first and then carefully bring your ratchet down in there, break loose take ratchet off and Finnish unscrewing the plug do this one by one and it makes everything allot quicker that's non-sense taking off the Cowl panel that is a pain in the butt.. took me a total of 30 minutes to change all plugs, gap, wires etc.. easy..
I've changed these on my Moms van, because the dealership wanted to charge her $450.00. I can understand its a good bit of work but really $450 that's ridiculous.
Control Module depending on type controls the engine functions, transmission, ignition, etc. (test does not specify "Ignition Control Module")
Starter solenoid would be the most likely choice because on older vehicles with points ignition, the solenoid has a Resistor (Run) post for and an Ignition (Start) post, but now we don't need resistors, but it still has to do with ignition!
Coil supplies voltage to the spark plugs = ignition again.
Spark plug creates the gap for the spark that the fuel needs to ignite, ignite = ignition.
In the context of twisted pair cable, more twists per foot reduces the effect of electro-magnetic interference, which means that more data can be reliably transmitted, effectively increasing its maximum throughput (higher data transfer rates). Electrically, more twists increase the amount of distributed capacitance per foot and makes the cable behave less like two wires and more like a transmission line, which accounts for decreased waveform distortion.
Spark plugs fire at the top of the compression stroke. That happens once for every rotation of the crankshaft. So it depends on how many rpms your engine is doing at the time (observable on your tachometer). If your engine is idling at 1000 rpms each of your plugs is firing 1000 times a minute.
The spark plug is fired once every two revolutions of the crankshaft on a 4 cycle engine, so at 1000 rpms the spark plug fires 500 times.
Poprivet is right and I stand corrected. They do fire every other rotation of the crankshaft.
Greetings gentlemen. 'Two Stroke' and "4 Stroke" are confusing misnomers. That is inaccurate, all due respect. Once every 2 rotations, and every one revolution on a two stroke cycle engine..... and there is really no such thing as a 2 cycle or 4 cycle engine. A spark plug fires 30 times a second in a 4 cylinder engine running at 1000 rpm's, 1800 times a minute. On engines with a distributor.
One revolution of the crankshaft is two 'strokes' in what the proper term is a " 4 Stroke Cycle" engine. It is important to differentiate between 'stroke' and 'cycle'. It takes 4 movements, one travel of the piston up is a 'stroke'. One travel down is a 'stroke'. It takes 4 strokes to make a cycle..an often misunderstood concept because people say 2 stroke engine, meaning 2 stroke cycle.
OK. The spark plug fires one time per 2 revolutions of the crankshaft. Again, on engines with a distributor. But in many modern engines, for example the Saturn Vue, Ford Escort, just to name a couple, and many other modern engines with coil packs and no distributor, there is a "waste spark" on dual polarity coils, the crankshaft position sensor sends a signal to the ECU, aka PCM, and "tells" the coil to ignite the spark plug at each TDC of the piston, both times it is at TDC therefore it will ignite the plug at the top of the exhaust stroke, before the piston begins to travel down on the intake stroke. That is your 'waste spark' and doubles the figure because it fires on each turn on the crankshaft. Now, on a two stroke, it fires every time anyway...that is why it's called "two stroke". Two strokes complete a cycle. There are reed valves, and one stroke is up and the other is down.... and every down stroke is a power producing stroke. Every time the piston travels down it is producing power to the crank, the plug ignited by a magneto. ~David
Use a 13/16 plug socket, a 1" or 1.5" extension and a regular 3/8 ratchet. Do Not use anything longer for an extension. Place a light about midways under the car. Follow the exhaust pipe into the doghouse and look directly above the manifold you will see only two plugs, the third (#1)will have to be found by touch. you will need to slide pretty far behind the engine to be able to reach straight up into the exhaust doghouse and you can easily touch the #3 and #5 plug. Remove them using the ratchet and short extension but be sure to have the handle pointed to the drivers side of the van. The #1 plug can be found by crooking your hand around and over the exhaust doughnut. You will need to place the socket and extension onto the plug, and THEN attach the ratchet. You will have only enough swing room to ratchet the plug out one or two "clicks"at a time until it is loose enough to remove the ratchet and then use the extension by hand to turn it all the way out. When replacing, use the socket ONLY to place the plug back into the head until you can no longer turn it, then insert the SHORT, (very short a 2" is too long) extension, then attach the ratchet. Tighten until around 20 ftlbs.
If you have access to an air ratchet it makes things very nice as you only have to hold it and squeeze the trigger in a tight spot like the #1 If you use an air ratchet, you will need to use a 1" extension ONLY, anything longer will cause the ratchet to strike the intake plenum.
I just did this job in about 20 minutes. I removed NOTHING except for the plugs and wires themselves. I used a regular Craftsman 3/8 ratchet, craftsman 13/16 plug socket, and a china made 12" & 1.5" extension.
This guy wrote the method that i used yesterday. It worked very well, as he described. My first attempt was to remove wipers etc. and go to the back 3 plugs from the top. I ran into the glued on drain pipes from that bucket and quit that attempt, and went to the back 3 plugs from the bottom. If you can get the car high enough to use a creeper, you'll be glad you did. Or use an assistant to pass you what you need and feed the new spark plug wires to you. I didn't have either, and my back is pretty sore.... The impact wobble is key. Get one, their about $8.99 for 2 (3/8, & 1/2") at Harbor Freight. You'll still need the 1" and/or 1 1/2 " extensions. I also used a 1/4" rachet when possible, adapting it to fit the 3/8" impact wobble. Works good for wrenching the plugs out after they're broke loose. I did 3 plugs at a time, removing 3 wires at a time. It got the wires out of the way, and was helpful.... If you do this here's the spark plug firing order or how to put the spark plug wires back on information: When standing on the passenger side of the van, where the fan belt is, the pistons on the left side or back of engine, are numbered 1, 3, 5 (1 is closest to you, 3 in middle, 5 is on drivers side). On the right side of the engine, or front of the van they're numbered 2, 4, 6 (2 is on passengers side, 4 is in middle, & 6 is on drivers side). The coil pack on my van is already numbered, just brush the dirt off and put the number 1 piston's spark plug wire to the #1 pin on the coil pack, etc. In case yours isn't numbered, here's the numbering of the coil pack from top left, across to the top right is 3, 1, 5, and then from bottom left, to bottom right is 6,4,2. If you use the fancy new wires with the metal around the spark plug boots, I had trouble with it on the number #1 plug. I kept bending the metal guard around the boot. So i finally took the metal guard off and threw it away. Then that last wire went on very easily.... The spark plug wire guide/holder above the exhaust on the back was easy to use. It was shaped like the letter C and worked like a spring loaded clamp. Just pull the old wire out the opening, and push the new wires in.... I , Good Luck to you on your Tune-Up! P.S. I used Autolite APP646 double platinum - copper core 100,000 mile plugs on the last tune up, and again this time. I recommend changing them at 90,000 miles, before the platinum disks start falling off.... I put 101,000 miles on my last tuneup, and it began running rough at 100,300 miles or so.... Also, these are nickel plated plugs, so, the proper anti-seize to use is "nickel anti-seize." You can get it at Grainger, or online. The local parts store did NOT have it. Reason is, they claim, most anti-seize products contain copper, a 3rd metal between your aluminum head, and nickel spark plug. The THIRD METAL causes the anti-seize to act as a lubricant more so than as an anti-seize, causing your spark plugs to loosen up as you drive..... So, when using autolite plugs, anti-seize is probably good. But, Nickel Anti-Seize is Better....
Points to remember.
#5 and #3 can be removed with or without an extension using a 3/8 ratchet.
#1 must be removed using a 1" or 1.5" extension. Anything longer will only frustrate you as it will strike the intake plenum before you can back the plug all the way out. Anything shorter will not allow you to swing the ratchet or even get it onto the plug.
#1 is hard to see and it is much faster doing it by touch.
You must slide far enough under the vehicle. lay on your RIGHT side and even prop your body up on something to allow your LEFT hand to reach all the way up to the #1.
When working in tight spots it is always easier to place the socket onto the nut, plug etc., and then install the extension or whatever else you are using to remove the bolt plug etc.
Keep the ratchet handle pointed to the left at all times.
DO not try to attach the ratchet extension and socket before slipping the socket over the plug. It will not fit, place the socket on the plug, install the extension, and then the ratchet both for removing and installing the plug.
An IMPACT wobble makes this job VERY easy. don't use a regular wobble extension they have to much wobble to be useful. The IMPACT wobble can be picked up at your favorite auto super store for about 15 bucks.
(Autozone didn't have a 3/8" impact wobble, Harbor Freight did [$8.99]).
Josh Carmack Self taught professional mechanic.
I'm glad I found your answer. The 1.5" extension IS the key. This procedure works folks. I didn't have an air ratchet available and the plugs were in pretty tight. The #1 plug is definitely the toughest, and next time, I will do it first. In my case, I did it last and by the time I attempted it, my arms were beginning to cramp from the awkward position required to complete the task. So I cheated...I went ahead and removed the alternator bracket and serpentine belt. It wasn't that much easier to get the # 1 out from the top. This job CAN be done without unbolting anything, but do the #1 first.
BUY THE BEST PLUGS AVAILABLE. Given the age of these vans, you may never have to do it again.
The easiest way actually takes a bit longer than trying to get at them from below. Going from below is a great way to tear up your hands.
Go from the top by removing the windshield wiper tub assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector to the wiper motor and lift the whole tub assembly out. This portion of the job will take about 1/2 hour, but it opens up the whole back end of the engine so you can reach the plugs and the wires.
The rear ones are bad but not impossible. If you remove the bracket that stabilizes the alternator (the one that lies horizontal at the top of the engine) you can get to the rear two that are on the passenger side. If you go from underneath the plug on the drivers side is quite accessible (also the middle one is not bad from underneath)
After researching various methods of approach to changing the 3 rear plugs on a 2000 Dodge Caravan 3.3 liter, my brother and I combined three different ways making the job easier but still time consuming. One way said to remove an alternator bolt, so the alternator can be swiveled out of the way, enabling you to reach the plugs from the top side. Another method said to remove the windshield wipers, wiper cowl and wiper motor to access them from the top side. The last was to lift the van, and reach up from the bottom. Upon studying the situation and the amount of room realistically provided by each method, we decided to do the following which worked out well and proved to be simple. First, remove the windshield wipers, wiper cowl and the entire wiper rack. This all comes off as one unit and is very easily done with no hidden bolts or screws. Once that is done, you will see where the alternator is bolted on the top left side of the engine. It is bolted to a large vertical bracket which is also bolted to another horizontal bracket. (these brackets form a 90 degree angle) Remove the smaller horizontal top bracket only (not the alternator itself). Again easily done. Now for the fun.... Jack up the front end of the van and rest it on jack stands. On a creeper from the front roll back about 1/3 of the van length until you can see where the exhaust angles up and connects to the motor. There you will see the catalytic converter, a heat shield above it and beyond those where the plug wire connect to the plugs. Remove the 4 small bolts holding the heat shield on, and then the heat shield itself. One of these small bolt is a pain to get to but this will give you a very valuable couple of extra inches of wiggle room. Now you can reach up along side the exhaust and get to all three plugs. Make no mistake, it is very tight with not much room but is very do able This is done much easier if you have another person top side to slide the new plug wires down to you for you to connect after the old ones are removed. It is highly recommended to change one plug and wire at a time so you can keep track where they were connected as these have to be connected in order or else the van will constantly misfire. I started (from underneath looking up) from left to right on the plugs. On the last one (rear passenger side) I got the plug out ok, but it is a royal pain to relocate the hole with the new plug from that angle. This is where you climb out, and from the top side reach down behind the engine where you removed the top bracket by the alternator. The hole cant be seen, but is easily felt. With plug in hand reach down, find the hole and finger tighten the plug. Then put only the socket onto the plug, not the ratchet. You can put a ratchet on the plug from here, but it will take you about 2 weeks to get it tight. Once this is done, go back underneath with your ratchet and you will now be able to see the top of your socket. You will be able to attach your ratchet and tighten the plug up. Now connect your new wire, the heat shield, bracket and wiper assembly. Again, this is easily done, but very time consuming. Still better than spending $500 plus for a garage to do it.spark plug on 99 caravan
very carefully you have to go up from under the van with a stubby ratchet and put something around your arms. I just did one the other day and my arms are torn to shreds
This is a very difficult job. I did it by taking the windshield wiper assembly out and then took the intake manifold and everything attached to it loose and pulled it forward. This is also how I gained access to the upper oxygen sensor. This gives you enough room to get at the plugs fairly easily. I put in the best plugs I could find so I won't have to change them again for a long time if ever.
Easiest on a lift, but you can get to them if you pull the upper plenum off. If you can get under the van, you can reach up past the exhaust and do them.
From underneath, reach over exhaust system to access rear plugs. You will need a stubby swivel handle ratchet head and a few wobble extensions to get the job done from underneath. It is not an easy task and you will come out after a 2-hour journey with scratched up hands and wrist but it can be done from underneath. I have done it 3 times, the first time took 4 hours, now it only takes about an hour and a half. I have long arms so that may benefit me as it is a stretch. Good Luck
Use an extension for the two on your right. The one on your left is difficult, but if you use a wobble extension or swivel you should do fine. The best way to install the new plugs is to use a short piece of hose maybe eight inches that will fit over the spark plug end an inch or so. Then thread the plug three or four turns and finish with the socket. Plug in the wires. Don't forget using anti-seize on the plug threads for easy out the next time. Put the air filter box on in reverse that it came off and your done.
I changed mine when I purchased our '97 Caravan used ... I was going to try the 'reach up from below in the dark' approach but finally decided to remove the intake manifold and do it from above. Seemed like a long approach but made all three rear plugs very accessible from above and allowed me to easily clean out the plug well with air prior to removing the plugs.
Extra cost is only a manifold gasket (<$10).
Couple of hints ... remove the coil from the RH end of the manifold, the bracket at the LH end below the throttle body may be hard to remove ... be prepared.
the best way i have found to change the rear plugs is to remove the upper plenum on the intake manifold.
You can reach the ones closest to the driver's side and remove with a flex link on the socket drive. For the last one you only need to unbolt the alternator bracket to get enough room to reach in from that side. Do use platinum plugs for long life, and a tapered gap checker so you don't ruin them. It isn't really that hard, but it is enough extra work that you don't want to do it again any sooner than absolutely necessary. This is also the time to change the wires. These engines will misbehave for bad plugs, bad wires, and for poor wire placement - unexplained hesitations, misfires, poor mileage. Use good parts and use extra care with the wire routing.
The front 3 plugs are removed in minutes naturally. It is the back three that are difficult. By driving the front tires on blocks you can slide underneath the minivan and reach the drivers side rear plug as well as the middle plug next to it. You may scratch your hands and arms a bit, but it can be done. The rear plug on the passengers side was the tough one for me. I moved the Alternator bracket, which you don't actually have to remove completely, but you can remove three bolts, then loosen the one directly to the alternator and push the bracket upwards out of the way. Even with this opening the difficulty I had was having enough room to move a socket wrench enough to loosen the plug. What finally worked was a compressed air spark plug removal tool. If you can buy or rent one if these, it will make the job much simpler.
From underneath. Safety 1st, do not support the vehicle in such a way that it can possibly fall on you.
For a 1999 Grand Caravan, I change the aft 3 plugs from behind and underneath. Seems like 2 are fairly easy, maybe 30 minutes, but the last one is tough, maybe took an hour or so of fiddling around and figuring out the right tool combination (extensions/swivel joints). Put the front wheels up on ramps so you can maneuver from underneath.
I have a '98 Caravan, 3.3. What I did was remove the intake because I also needed to change the valve cover gaskets. This was the easiets way to do it all. Also removed the wiper pan...had tons of room to do everything.
Bad spark plugs and leads can commonly make the engine feel like its 'hesitating' or skipping a beat, often worsening in the higher rev range.
However it is not the cause of white smoke. White smoke is typically associated with coolant getting into the combustion chamber. The most common cause of this is a cracked head gasket, which you will need to replace in order to rectify the white smoke.
First, get a correct size spark plug socket, the kind with the rubber insert. Make sure it is the correct size for your car's plugs. Older cars used 13/16" (REAL old cars had even larger sizes); most modern cars use 5/8". Allow the engine to cool so that you will not burn your knuckles, especially on the exhaust manifold. On some engines universal joints for the socket drive extension bar is useful. Spark plug sockets with built-in universal joints are also available. Several lengths of extension bars may come in handy: 3", 6", etc. They can be used in combination for really long reaches. A compressed air blow gun (wear safety goggles!!) with a long nozzle should be used to blow all grit and trash from the spark plug wells or recesses. You don't want any grit or trash to get into the cylinder or to foul the spark plug threads. If there is built-up crud around the plugs, use a good engine cleaner like "Gunk" after the engine has cooled to where you can touch it comfortably. After it has a chance to soak, spray with a water jet, then blow dry with the blow gun. If you can reach the spark plug boots (the rubber sleeves or elbows at the end of the spark plug cables), twist them back and forth just a little to break them free from the spark plug insulators. You don't care about damaging the spark plugs but if you aren't replacing the spark plug cables ("wires") you don't want to pull the cables out of the connectors that snap onto the spark plug terminals. There are a number of hook tools and pliers made to pull the cables loose from the spark plugs. Don't pull on the cables - they likely will pull out of the terminals or may break the "wire" (actually a fiberglass string filled with graphite on most street applications) inside the cable insulator. Take the cables loose and replace the spark plugs one at a time so that the order of the cables is not changed. Unscrew the spark plug and set it aside in order for inspection. Make sure the spark plug threads and seat in the engine cylinder head are clean and grit free. Make sure the threads on the spark plug are clen and undamaged. If the thread is dinged, exchange it for another new plug. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound (NEVER use oil or grease!) on the spark plug threads. If you can reach it with your hand, screw the spark plug into the hole with your fingers. If there is any resistance, back off and inspect for whatever is jamming it. If you have to, use a spark plug holder (not the socket) to insert and screw in the plug finger tight. Now use the socket to tighten the plug to specification. Old-fashioned flat seat plugs, the ones with gasket washers, are tightened about one turn from finger tight. Modern tapered seat plugs are tightened about 1/16 turn from finger tight. Use of a torque wrench is strongly recommended. Spark plugs are NOT 12mm or 14mm screws.
On my '98 GSX it's .032.AnswerThe manufacture of the plug you buy for you car (your Mitsubishi) should come 'Pre Gaped' ie; no need to gap them. I have or my car has a Mitsubishi engine in it and I use NGK plugs for it. You'll find NGK's in most Motorcycle engines and other high rev engines.
Just spoke with the auto parts store. The gap for a 1995 Eclipse RS is .044
no spark, no gas getting to cylinder, dirty carb, dirty fuel filter, wrong fuel/air mix on carb to name a few, dirty air filter....
in the cylinder head.... LOL Just kidding a bit... The engines use what is called COP type ignition, or Coil On Plug. That means it does not have a distributor and plug wires like you are probably used to... each cylinder has its own ignition coil. If you can look at the injectors, you will see something about 1.5 inches around with a small bolt holding it in place, and a small wiring harness attached to it. These are the coils. The bolt has a 7 or 8 mm head on it. Remove the bolt and wire plug, and the coil will pull up and off of the spark plug. Depending on which cylinder you look at, it will be difficult to actually see the spark plug, but trust me it is down there about 4 inches deep into the head. They have a 5/8 head, and you will need about 1 3 inch extension for your ratchet to remove the plug. Be sure that your spark plug socket has the little rubber insert in there to. If you are going to replace them, a little tip for you.... lube the ceramic boot of the plug with dilectric grease before you insert it into the spark plug socket. This will keep the rubber piece from stickin to the plug after you install it. Also DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE PLUG !!!!! You will F!#$% up your head and the repair is VERY expensive to fix. You can actually rip the threads right out of the head if you over tighten them. It is a bit of a pain to get all of them, but not too bad. I would plan a good 3 or 4 hours the first time you do it. On the passenger side, the back two are tough, but if you take off the brackets where the battery wires connect to (4 - 8mm bolts) and slide the two harneses off of the brackets, you can do it. Just push the heater hoses out of the way
Theoretically you use five 4-to-1 multiplexers. You use four of them to connect the 16 inputs. You then have four outputs. Take the fifth multiplexer and connect the four outputs as the inputs. The fifth multiplexer then has a single output that has multiplexed the original 16 inputs.
Divertless Supersonic Intakes (DSI) is an air intake that was designed for supersonic flight regime, so the plane doesn´t need to have any variable-geometry airintake, that´s why it is called DSI. In supersoniv flight regime, it is hard for an airplane to turn, especially kulbit. In order to gain airflow to the engine, most fighters uses variable-geometry air intakes, or moving air intakes that we could found in F-22, or Su-27, or MiG-29, or any other fighters. Fighter such like F-35 doesn´t need any moving parts because it uses DSI. DSI automatically gain airflow to the engine in supersonic flight regime. I hope it helps, have a nice day!
Um, you probably shouldn't have had glass around the open spark plug hole in the first place. this could make it hard for your spark plug to fit into place, or even send the spark to the cylinder. You will have to take apart the head and remove the glass depending on how big the shard, or piece is.
plug gap should be .025"
I saw many hundreds $$$ flying out the window.
My spirits soared when the mechanic told me ' IT IS UNDER WARRANTY'.
Picked up car and NO CHARGE it was.
It seems that emmission parts are warranted for 7 years in Canadaand I guess in US.
Pass side front to back 2-4-6-8
Driver side front to back 1-3-5-7
through the tire wells
Faulty: spark plug, spark plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another.
Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings.......................................................All of the above and possibly more.
The magneto has 2 separate outputs - 1 to the ignition and 1 to the accessories (AKA Lights). If you are sure that you have power coming from both parts, then you need to check your switches (On/off switch and Key Switch).
If they test OK, then check your spark plug wires for continuity. If that is OK, then you need to check your coil (There are coil tests on youtube).
If your coil is functional, then the last thing to replace is the CDI. Unfortunately, there aren't any tests for that. It is either good or bad. You can and should check the pickup gap for the CDI - (Distance between the pickup and the flywheel at a predetermined point - typically a thicker or raised point on the flywheel).
Very carefully. If you don't have time to be patient...don't attempt to replace the plugs. On the passenger side, the front 3 plugs are relativley easy to get to. By far, the hardest plug to remove/replace is the passenger side rear...a real knucklebuster. Because the AC mod is in the way, you may have to try different plug socket (straight socket & swivel socket) and ratchet combinations. The driver side plugs are much easier to remove/replace, although the steering column is somewhat in the way. Again, try different tool combinations until you're able to get to the plugs. You must be patient.
There are 3 things that get in the way of the plugs -
The rest of it is pretty logical in terms of removing the plug, setting up its replacement (grease, anti-seize, etc) and putting the new one in.
It was a whole lot easier than my 98 Sable 24v V6, and the 2001 Windstar. 30 minutes, a bit longer if you're doing the wires while you're at it.
Opinion: I prefer the Motorcraft brand plugs - enough people who know more than me continue to encourage the manufacturer's brand to be convincing.Answerthe spark plug wires are very easy to replace. They are right on top of the engine and go down into holes right on the top of the valve cover. With the engine not running, unplug each wire from both ends, and replace each one at a time. I recommend you do this one at a time to prevent crossing the wires up. Each terminal on the coil assembly is matched to a particular cylinder, so you have to get the right coil terminal attached to the right spark plug. You will also notice that the replacement wires are different lengths, so as you remove each wire, install the same length replacement wire. Answeron a 2.5 v6 you will have to remove the intake manifold, to do this remove the plastic cover by the oil fill (water pump cover), then the intake bolts on top, the hoses on the intake (2 on top one on pip sensor, one to PVC valve) then remove the throtle cable bracket along with the intake hoses (from air filter) then remove the 2 bolts witch hold the egr vavle to the intake manifold. unplug the 3 sensors (egr, tps and pip) lift up on the manifold, you will need to pull it towards the passanger side to get it out from under the egr valve. you will now see your plugs and wires 3 in front 3 in back. inspect your intake gasket before reinstalling your manifold. replace if needed. DO NOT USE RTV silicon gasket. -nius AnswerIf you have the FOUR CYLINDER 2.0l engine, the plugs are under a black plastic cover that is about 24" long right on top of the engine. You can see the spark plug wires that come out of the distributor located on the right side of the engine ( as you face it ), and they go under this cover. 8-10 screws must be removed to take the cover off, as well as a grommet for a sensor on the left side that can be pushed back up the wire harness once it is popped off the black cover.
The plugs are under some long connectors that also seal the pocket that the plug is located in. Be careful because oil and debris collect around the plugs and can drop into the combustion chamber when the plug is removed. It took several minutes to burn off all the oil that got into the combustion chambers the last time I changed plugs on my Mystique.
Also note that there are TWO DIFFERENT PART NUMBERS on the original plugs, but the Motorcraft specification now lists only one plug for use in all cylinders.Answeris it a v6? because if it is good luck,if its an ecotech than remove the top of the valve cover and they are under the "DI"direct ignition assy.if its a v6 it sure is possible but u will have to remove the necessary components to get at them and the back 3 are the worst. AnswerCheck out the "free" tech manual on your 99 contour. Here's the link that shows you how to do it. This URL should be a all on one line when you put it in the browser. It split apart when I copied it here due to the width limit on this response input form. - Good Luck!
1.- Go to http://www.autozone.com/
2.- Create an account (If you don't have an account)
3.- Log with you user.
4.- Add a 96-99 contour as a preferred vehicle.
5.- Paste the following link:
Unlike the 5.7 Litre Hemi, which takes 16, your 4.7 only has 8
1 per cylinder.
You have to remove the drivers seat, fold back the carpet and you'll expose an engine cover...
Undo all the bolts and lift the cover off and you'll see the top of the engine...
Remove (Black) cover over the rocker cover to expose the leads, remove the high tension leads and then remove the plugs. You WILL need an extension bar with your spark plug socket as they are fairly deep into the rocker cover
It can also be done by simply driving it up on ramps & removing plugs from under the drivers side of car.
The spark plug being wet with gas could be a multitude of problems, but, you're in luck, the most likely cause would be a leaky fuel injector, or multiple ones, if it seems like the car is running rich (strong gasoline smell from exhaust while running) that's probably your problem. The injector isn't fully closing when you shut the car off and its dripping gasoline into the open cylinder and its soaking the plug. You may notice the car taking longer to start in the mornings (or after a longer period of sitting) because the fuel rail is draining through the open injectors while the car is shut off. You should have this diagnosed by a trained technician, but its a point in the right direction.
start with new plugs
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