To find out what is wrong with it you will have to take it to a repair shop or the ford dealer with a computer to hook it up, but the engine light being on something is wrong with the car, it kinda sounds like a ingition coil pack going out, if so it will only get worse and could also be many other little things, but it must be repaired before the light will go off, and needs to be repairs ASAP so it doesnt cause anymore damage, that is why the light came on is for it to be serviced and repairs ASAP.
I have the same problem with a 2001 LS V8 sport. They diagnosed this earlier this year when I felt a subtle pulsing in the car during heavy acceleration. They said they must change both according to Lincoln service number SSM 512 481 091 and replace BOTH pumps (which shocked me to find there was two). They listed the pumps as YW42-9275-BC and YW42-9H307-BA. Apparently these cross reference to part number E2274M from Airtex but I'll know more soon as it is on order from my local jobber. I do know that if you order a 'pump' from A/C number MU2013 you will get a sender unit only which is listed improperly (and probably why the Airtex costs about 25% more). One other item the dealer replaced on my LS was the Idle solonoid but that shouldn't impact the car while driving, just while idling.
the power an winter mode switch gets corrosion an dirty.mostly from spilled drinks coffee cigerette ashes.causes a electrical short within the switch.just replace it with a new one
On some cars low brake fluid can cause it to come on. GoodluckJoe
If your brakes are very worn, it will take much more fluid to depress the calipers. This will significantly lower the amount of brake fluid in the reservoir which will trigger the brake light to illuminate. This happened to me and when I put on new calipers the light didn't come on again.
I had the same problem on my 1993 ES. All the rear light bulbs worked, but one was dim and the resistance was higher than the others. I replaced that bulb and that took care of the problem. No more dash light warning.
it has something to do with the passcode security feature on the car. To fix it you leave the key in the run position for about 10 minutes unitl the securtiy light shuts off and then start the car normally. This could be one of 2 things either the key is worn or the passcode module is shot. Get a new key before you go and spend $300 on the parts. There are more answers on www.automotive forums.com If it does not start turn the key all the way to off position then turn it to the on position, at this point the security light will start flashing for between 10-15 min. Once it stops flashing or goes away turn the key all the way off then try to start it. If passcode locks you out , security light will be on. I don't think that the engine will even turn over. It could also be fuel pump. When you turn key to on position , fuel pump in gas tank should run a couple seconds (hear a hum).
If you run your cars gas tank to almost empty alot, the electric fuel pumps fail because the fuel acts as a coolent. Also check the fuse block. The fuse block on my son's car was removed and it was found to be very corroded. The engine would turn over, but not start. The ODB II reader could not read any codes. The problem was worse when it rained. There must have been a leak that caused water to corrode the fuse block.
Hey Ryan==Simply remove the neg battery cable then the ser belt then the wiring on the alternator then the bolts that hold it on. GoodluckJoe
i had this same problem with my 85 and about 3 months later my fuel pump went out changed it, workds fine now
Spray with penetrating oil and beat on it from the rear with a hammer
try your library.
olds cutlass calias bolt removal. you must remove the air box, the radiator cooling fan and anything else that is in your way from accessing the alternator from the top, front of the car. a longer extension on a 3/8 drive ratchet and the proper size socket,13mm or 15mm should remove this bolt.
Hey John==Make sure the alternator belt is tight. GoodluckJoe A Bad Diode in the Alternator will cause the light 2 stay on & still charge the bttery.
sounds like the coilpack may be getting hot
Its simple. Get your car up on ramps and look for an electrical wiring harness that goes into the tranny. Usually it is a two or three wire connector. Simply disconnect it and that should solve your shift problem "if" that "IS" the problem. In other words if your TCC is bad than disconnecting it will make your tranny operate without lock up. At worst you will lose 1 MPG.
I took a look at doing this myself and backed out. The shop had to remove a engine mount and dismantle the A/C to get the job done. I think shop time was 3-4 hours. This car does not leave enough room for big hands. Also to give you a heads up on another issue I had. Leaves and debris enter by the wipers, clog up the A/C drain. The car starts getting wet on the inside passenger floor board. I though I had a leaking heater core. Replaced it. Eventually the water takes out the computer behind the glove box. HTH
Check the following areas: Spark Plugs (gapped properly and good spark) Fuel pressure Bad Catalytic Converter Check for clogged air filter as well
on the 1994 CUTLASS SUPREME IT IS
ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE DASH PANEL
OPEN THE DOOR AND LOOK AT THE SIDE OF THE DASH
THERE IS A PANEL THERE LABELED FUSES
IT IS OBLONG LOOKING
THERE YOU GO ALL OTHER ANSWERS ARE NONSENCE
LIKE LOOK IN THE MANUAL
I believe that has the DIS, distributerless ignition system, if so there is no timing adjustment. The timing is controlled by the ignition module, crankshaft sensor and the ECM (engine computer).
Try having some run a test using and OSB tester. Sometimes if the sensor is going bad it will show.
*Before getting into all of that, check your brake lights to make sure they are working. Since people rarely see their own brake lights most cars are designed to disable the dash lights if the brakes lights stop working (same circuit). Your dash lights only come on when you turn on the parking or headlamps, so I'm not sure why you say they go out - unless it is the switch after all. Most often, if your dash lights won't work, there's a blown fuse for your brake lights. The problem is your dash lights go out when you turn on your headlights. The technical problem is in the switch assembly that houses the turn signals and light switch (combination switch) has a faulty connector inside. On my legend this happened and when I took it apart, I saw that the brass connecter have worn over time and dirt has gotten stuck, preventing any electrical connection. At first I just cleaned the connection, but that only worked until it filled up with dirt again. I found out that you couldn�t just replace the one stick that�s broken; you have to replace the whole combination switch (its all stuck together). Eventually I phoned up the Acura dealership and they gave me a price of about $200 Canadian. But there is an easier way, phone up an auto wrecker and ask them for a combination switch, they gave me a price of $30 can. I figured since the part is still used it might have the same problem, but then again I could replace the used one almost 10 times before It matched the price of the new one. The installation is pretty easy so you can do it yourself. Unplug the battery. If you don�t have an airbag you can just pry off the center of the steering wheel and that gains you access of the bolt that holds the steering on. You may have a bit of trouble getting this bolt off; find a wrench that is long for more torque. Once that is off make sure you mark where the wheel is set before you take off the wheel, and unplug the horn. Once you have removed the steering wheel that should show you the screws that hold on the combination switch, unscrew them. The under guard normally is in the way so you might have to take that off as well. Follow the wires coming out of the combination switch and mark down where they go on the car. Pull the unit out the replace it with the new one. Put screws back in and use the sheet to plug back in all the wires. Tada fixed and with 170 dollars still in your pocket. Most wreckers have a must work policy so if the part doesn�t work then they should give you a new one.
If your engine turns but does not start, first check your interier fuel reset button located, inside under dash driver side on firewall between brake pedle and fuse box. If red button is up, push down to reset. This is there for the event of a colloison or need to do repairs on fuel system. Second, check for spark. To do this remove a plug wire and hold to a ground point (best done with very little light) if you see spark or get a ZAP well you got spark. Third, check or replace fuel relay Located (under the hood drivers side mounted on the back side of your breather) that part cost about 12 dollars. Fourth, if none of the above works check for a fault in the manafold system. O i almost forgot dont forget about your fuel filter you should check that first. I hope that helps you. And if that dont work, make sure that you check fule all areas of your fuel system (pressuer, regulator, fule pump etc.
There are electronic devices called voltage oscillators that can do this. Check out some electronics hobby magazines or books, or electronics suppliers or hobby shops for specifics. If you want to control the lights manually you can use a dimmer switch, as long as you are using incandescent lamps. You can't, but you can probably buy a special kind of light you are looking for at Spencers or online.
This MAY be caused by the fact the cam shaft was binding from no oil and put added stress on the timing belt causing it to break. The camshaft will be first to starve from a LOW OIL or NO OIL state. Hope this was helpful.
I have a 1990 Olds Calais, and the air filter is located near the driver side below the battery. there a clamp on top of the casing. Hard area to work in. You may need to work under the car.
6 x9 in the back and 3.5 inch round ones in the dash ........tuner1978
stick a siphon hose down the filler neck and start sucking.just don't sollow any, and then wash your mouth out. they stopped making the calais in 1991.....tuner1978
I have an 87 Calais automatic with a floor shifter. The console doesn't have to come out. The bezel around the radio snaps into the lower dash with 4 clips. Carefully pry out the bezel and then you'll be able to get to the mounts for the radio. I have pictures of the dash with the radio removed if it will help. E-mail firstname.lastname@example.org if you want to see them.
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