It takes 4.2 quarts with a filter change. The filter holds .6 quart. That is why there is a discrepancy between the manual and the dip stick. If you did not change the filter the oil pan would hold only 3.6 quarts. Bottom line, change the oil & filter and add 4.2 quarts.
PEUGEOT do not use colour codes in their diagrams. they mark their cables with individual codes normally a number or a number + a letter such as 1 or 1a. direct earth connections are marked M then a numeric code tacked on. direct earths are the only cables that are easily identified from their colour they are alway green with a yellow stripe.
That should help you out some.
The best thing to do is to use the oil recommended in your Forester owner's manual for the climate that you live in, time of year, type of driving, etc. There is no one correct answer to your question. If you do not have an owner's manual, they are available from a number of eBay sellers. You could also ask the Subaru dealer nearest you. --Ken
Loose or glazed fan belt?
Manual describes it in section 10-50. 1. Disconnect the electrical connector, then remove rubber cover. 2. Remove the retainer spring. 3. Replace the bulb, then set the retainers spring securely. 4. Install the rubber cover with the top mark facing up, then reconnect electrical connector.
This is simple and easy if the bulb assembly comes out easily. I completed steps 1 and 2 but instead of the bulb assembly simply sliding out the back cover on the contacts came off leaving me with the three contact prongs and nothing much to pull on.
I used a pair of pliers (if you have needlenosed it might be better/easier) and g e n t l y pried the rest of the bulb assembly out and the rest went smoothly.
The bulb is accessed from under the car. Do not attempt to remove anything on the face of the bulb. Here is what I did today:
1. There is an undercarriage cover that is held in place by plastic retainers. To remove the retainer and still be able to reuse it, you'll need to pry up the center of the retainer with a small flathead screwdriver. Once it's partially up, use needle nose pliers or the same screwdriver to pry the center up further. Once it is up far enough, the entire plug should come out. Save this for later.
2. Once the one retainer is removed, you should be able to push the cover up until you can see the bulb.
3. Twist the entire bulb assembly counter clockwise. You don't need to remove the screws. The bulb assembly should easily pull away from the socket.
4. Using that same small flathead screwdriver, push on the tab that holds the bad bulb into the rubber/plastic connection. With the tab pushed in, the bulb should be easily removed from the connection.
5. Plug the new bulb back in to the connection. At this point, you might want to turn on your fog lamps to verify that they light up before putting them back into the sockets.
6. Place the connected lamp back into the same socket it was in before and at the same angle. Twist clockwise to lock into place
7. Pull the undercarriage cover back into place. Make sure the hole that the connector came out of is aligned with the hole to lock it back into place.
8. With the center pin on the connector pulled up as far as possible, the rest of the connector should go into the cover and into the attaching hole without much trouble. If it does not, you may need to pull the center pin out a bit more.
9. Once the connector is in place and the center pin is up, use a hammer to push the center pin back down. This will lock the connector pin and will hold the cover in place.
Please note that I'm not a mechanic, so the names I used for the parts are just descriptions as best as I can describe. Good luck!
Usually under the floor mat and metal cover on front passenger side.
Answer is too involved to answer here. Buy a repair manual for you car. Around $12 at most auto parts stores. Buy the manual. Then go to www.ultimatesubaru.net before starting. It's all covered there, along with just about any other repair to a Loyale.
The center nut is for the hub assembly. You need to remove the screws on the rotor. The screws might be stuck to the rotor when you try to take it out. If this is the case, be careful when you use the screwdriver. You might round out the screw head. When the screw is hard to remove, I usually use a 1/4" socket wrench, 1/4" socket, and screwdriver bit. The screwdriver bit will fit inside the 1/4" socket. This gives you extra torque and won't round out the screw as a screwdriver might do. Once the screws are out, the rotor should come right off.
on the gear box down the drivers side below the bulkhead
Check to make sure you didn't bump the switch on the top of the steering column (directly behind the steering wheel) that turns the parking lights on permanently.
Was this the final answer? Do not bump the switch in the steering column?
That's pretty lame!
There is no reset button. The computer is reset by repairing whatever tripped the CE light, and then using a scan tool to reset the light. Reset the light without repairing the problem and the light will just come back on.
They actually make tools specifically for the car, but most times you can just buy a cheap boot puller at many stores or online.
Follow the large lower radiator hose from where it leaves the radiator to where it connects to the engine. This will be the suction or supply side of the water pump.
It is located under the timing belt cover. If you are anywhere near 100k miles, you might as well have the timing belt replaced at the same time as the water pump.
sounds like the coilpack may be getting hot
You could have a bad thermostat, just because its new doesn't mean its good, TRUST ME ON THAT, or you could possible have an air pocket in the cooling system.
Disconnect negative cable at battery. Remove the inside door trim panel, remove film watershield, remove the door window glass assembly by lowering the window all the way, remove inside door handle and rods, unplug electrical mirror and regulator wires, remove the glass stabilizer bolt, then the 2 window glass retainer bolts, lift out the window glass, then remove the 4 regulator assembly bolts and wiggle the regulator out thru the opening. Reassemble in reverse order. Buy a Haynes Repair Manual for about $15 and save yourself some anguish! YFC
There are 2, a primary at the forward inside corner of the driver's side REAR wheel well, and a secondary very fine filter in the fuel line just before it goes into the carb, usually just underneath the air cleaner horn close to the heat risor pipe of the air clener. The primary usually is in a metal cylinder and lugs on the replacement filter clip into what look like the castled top of the protecting canister. A short line to the tank and a slightly longer line go towards the front of the car.What I do is take off the wheel for working room, put a pan underneath 'cause I am sloppy, gently using a small slot screwdiver, or whatever works, unclip the old filter and wiggle it up so it is almost out. Then, with a new filter handy, and after studying the flow direction stamped in the new filter, I undo the clamp to the filter and hose-to-tank. (Hose clamps come in all types. I hold the hose in my right and wiggle the filter off with my left. When done it is now apparent that some gas will be coming out of the filter and you will of course still be holding your right thumb over the tank hose end. Pick up the new filter and put it on that hose. It will be a tad less frustrating if you did not take the clamp off the line but only slid it up towards the tank. Do not do the clamp up just yet but do slide it down towards where it has to seal the inlet of the new filter. Now undo the old fiter outlet clamp and wiggle off that tube holding it in your left hand and the old filter in your right. As soon as it is off, plug the hose into the outlet of the new filter and position the clamp. Then push or wiggle that nice new filter into the canister until it clips, check your hoses for binding and rubbing, final position your clamps, and tighten them up. It is not quite the same with the spring clamps but the order is the same. Put your wheel back on. The secondary is in the engine compartment, and the air filter should be removed for working room. This filter is about the size of a large rifle bullet.The rubber ring around it is so that it does not chaff in the close confines of it's resting place. To take off the air cleaner, squeeze the clamp holding the flexible heat riser pipe and twist the pipe down and off. Pull off the little vacum tube on top of the air horn thermostatic valve. Pull the squarish fresh air snozzle off the front of air cleaner horn. You may wish to unclip that near the distributer to get a little space.Then unclip 2 top edge shiny wire clips on air cleaner cover and, reaching way down and working by feel, undo the 2 matching clips on the bottom edge of the air cleaner. Finally, unscrew the center mounting bolt. When that is done you can gently and slowly pull the cover towards the firewall and ever so carefully work it up so that you have it out WITHOUT snagging it on the little vacum breather spigot that stays with the rest of the carbs. Now is a good time to change that airr cleaner! Now, if you look at the carb on the passenger side, (unless you have fuel injection), you easily will be able to follow the red, braided, larger than the other lines. It should go back towards the firewall and within that distance will be the secondary filter. Of course you know what it looks like you, have a new one. The shape, (some are metal, some are plastic), is what is important it should be the same. This filter cleans down to microns and that is so important on carbs of this type. Again check your flow direction on the filter knowing that the fuel flows from the firewall area to the carb. the arrow should go the same way.Again unclamp the filter, twist off the hoses and put in the new one. Check your positions, tighten up clamps. Reinstall air filter in the reverse order again being careful to hold the filter to the lid while positioning it. After you are done then start the car but if you have lost a bit of gas from the lines it may turn over a little bit extra before firing up. Nothing to worry about. As soon as your car is running, get out and with a flashligt if needed check all your connections that nothing is leaking and that nothing was forgotten. Primary Filter Fram-G4774, Secondary Filter Fram-G3843 Good Luck
On my 98 2.5Liter Outback, the radiator drain plug is at the lower left (passenger side) rear side of the radiator. Pull the small plastic coweling loose that is just below it to unscrew the plug. YFC I have a problem: How do you purge the air trapped in this 2.5 Liter engine after refilling a drained radiator?
I have a problem: How do you purge the air trapped in this 2.5 Liter engine after refilling a drained radiator?
im having to deal with this right now. according to the manual remove the radiator cap and reservoir cap. start the car and slowly fill the reservoir as needed the air will vent from the radiator once the water no longer needs to be filled replace the caps **you must pour slowly or you will prevent the air from escaping
The secret is to take out the entire centre consol.
Whoever wrote that you need to buy an entirely new headlight assmebely was not very well informed, nor very clever as it is very, very easy.
1) Open the hood.
2) Unplug the wire going to the back of the heald light.
3) Remove the rubber housing covering the light build, use a screwdriver to pry it.
4) There is a little spring (vshaped that starggels around the back of the bulb) that hold the bulb in place, squeeze both sides of that spring and pull it forward. (The bottom part of that spring is attahced, it'll just swing down and out of the way.)
5) Pull out the old bulb.
6) Put the new build in, flip the spring back in place, replace the rubber piece, conncect the wire and drive happily and safley!
Unleaded; minimum 87 octane for normally aspirated engine
inside the thermostat housing where the lower radiator hose connects to the engine block.
Give me food and I will live give me water and I will die what am I?
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