BOV's (blow-off valve) are to prevent too much positive pressure from entering the engine due to boost build-up and to releave back pressure from re-entering the Engine. A non-turbo car cannotuse a "BOV" since there is no turbo and/or positive pressure present in the intake manifold. This is STRONGLY not recommended, on NON-Turbo cars. As there is not reason for it to be present.
When your check engine light comes on in a Subaru, it disables the cruise control (thus why it is flashing). Take it to your local dealer, it's still under warranty. Check Engine light comes on due to a wide range of possible problems, automatically disabling the cruise control as mentioned above. The problems can range from sensor issues (MAF, Oxygen Sensors, Etc.) to a loose gas cap, to condensation, to a loose connector on a sensor, perhaps even a dying battery, a flaky alternator or a faulty battery terminal connection. It is a catch-all problem indicator. If you are lucky, you can simply reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a minute, and the Check Engine light will be gone and cruise control will work. If the error persists, you need to get the error code (if you do not have a code reader or accesspoint, stop by Autozone or somewhere similar and get them to read it for you) see what the error is, and fix the problem. Simple? Hopefully it's not something more troublesome, bad injector, etc.
The dome light in my Impreza has a three way switch that in the full rear position remains off even with the doors open. In the middle position it is on auto so that when a door is opened it comes on. And in the full forward position it stays on constantly. If yours has a switch you might try moving it to the middle position or the full rear position per your preference.
i have some problem with the sprare part and i like to contact subaru hq
About 2 grand (CDN) for a front and rear strut replacement.Too much for me.
I have the answer to your question about troubleshooting your headlights on your vehicle. I would isolate the wire that comes from the headlight switch to the headlamp bulbs for low beam and check to see if there is a short in the wire. You can find this wire by using a test light turn on the key and get a good ground with the test light poke the wire and see if the test light illunimates with the headlight switch on. Good luck!
check the wires, and check the fuse for your lowbeams. could of blown a fuse on your lows, but your highs will still work.
Every single time I have had a failure of low beam in a headlight without failure of high beam, it has been because the lamp bulb or halogen lamp module has reached the end of its serviceable life, not because of any wiring problems. Low beam burns out first because it is on the most. If low beam is lost simultaneously in both headlights, I would check fuse first, then the headlight switch. If low beam is lost on one side only, it is almost always going to be due to the bulb or lamp module needing to be replaced. In that case, replace them in both headlights because the other one will be going kaput in short order, as well.
ya i second that notion -anonymous feb '05
CHECK THE DIMMER SWITCH.THAT IS THE PROBLEM MOST OF THE TIME.
Measure for voltage at the light bulb clip first. It could be a bad set of bulbs. If you have no voltage, check fuses, and then check for voltage before the headlight switch. It could be a faulty headlight switch. Measuring a few voltages will tell you what the problem is.
Change the headlight bulb. 99% of the time it is the bulb that is the problem.
Most definitely check out the headlight dimmer control switch .... Ron J.
the lamp is probably bad easy to check look at it. hi beam light do carry more current and tend to fail sooner
Get a manual on your car from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM.
Most cars with a rubber timing belt and not a timing chain should be replaced between 80-100k miles. I believe the impreza has an interference engine which means if the timing belt breaks while driving you will have a much more expensive repair, as the valves may need replacing as well. If you have no proof that the timing belt was done by a previous owner you should have it done as well.
The Diff oil ir either needing changed or topped up, if its a whining noise that is.
== == There is a website where you can purchase a seatbelt alarm silencer for only $20, and it's completely legal!! www.clickercheater.com
On my MKIV Jetta, the seatbelt alarm quits sounding after about 3 minutes. The warning light also goes out at that time, too.
Check that battery has power.
Check that coil pack has power and is grounded.
Ground out one spark plug and see if there is any spark.
If there is no spark, then it is either a fuse or your coil pack is bad.
Rule out that the coil pack is good and that your spark plug wires are bad. Test them all individually. Don't get shocked by the 20K volts from the ignition, it really hurts.
ive heard 75. but that's not from the manual or anything.
I auggest if you work on your vehicle to get a manual on it which will help you from making mistakes, Get one from the parts store or from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM
I had to repair my gas tank on my 1988 Ranger XLT. I've only done this once and I had a Uncle assist me. I'm not a professional or certified mechanic I just try to fix my own vechicle. Hope I can be of any help to you. Now, my gas tank was punctured and was savageable; therefore, my tank was emptied. There was no need for me to empty my tank. You'll probably have to empty the tank before removing it. I replaced my tank when it was fixed. I don't know if you are going to put a new one or replace it. Remember, you are dealing with fuel so no smoking. Careful with anything that could ignite your fuel. Try to do this outside instead of inside the garage. I started by disconnecting my battery. Underneath the rear driver side you'll see the gas tank. It's held in place by 2 metal straps(clamps). You'll have to remove them in order to bring the tank down. This portion was sort of annoying. If I can remember, the bolts are very long and not much space to work with. Once you take the clamps off the tank should come down easily. You have to becareful with the fuel lines which are still attached to the tank. On my tank the lines are in bedded in a circular gadget, which will come off by twisting it off. Can not remember if you twist left or right, try either way. Once that's off your tank should be free. Be careful with your fuel lines, that will be another project you'll probably don't care to do. Now this was my experience on my ranger. And to replace it just follow your steps backwards. Once you have everything tighten. Put some fuel in the tank and replace battery wires. It should start. Make sure you have fuel in the tank before cranking it. Hope to be of assistance to you.
Bad water pump?
Start by removing cover to timing belt, before removing belt, mark with paint marker the exact spot where the timing pulley has marks, remove belt, and tension pulley, then undo the 6 bolts to water-pump, after removing the hoses and clamps, install new gasket after cleaning where old one was, then install new pump, and new hoses if needed(if not use old ones), then re-install tension pulley, and(GREAT TIME TO REPLACE TIMING BELT) timing belt making sure that the marks you made line up with the timing marks on pulley, then re-install the timing cover, fill with anti-freeze, run until thermostat opens to release air in lines, then top off anti-freeze, and drive car, check for leaks repeatedly during drive and after drive, if no leaks, then you're good to go!
Only if you live and drive above approx 4,000 foot altitude, and keep using the car. Potential problems are lower-than-normal octane if used below 4,000 feet, and fuel degradation/ fuel hose damage if fuel is left in the car for more than 2 months without a fillup. Even the standard Impreza engines have 4 valves per cylinder and develop ferocious cylinder pressures, even at moderate engine speeds. For comparison, my Legacy and Forester engines deliver more power with 89 octane as I often drive below 700 foot elevations.
In the morning, all the metal parts in your car are literally smaller, because as science tells us, things shrink in the cold and expand in the heat. Some metal components in your ignition system, being colder, and thus smaller, are now farther apart. So it takes more electrical potential (voltage) to jump these larger gaps. So everything from your battery to your starter motor to your spark plugs are using more energy to get you going. Add to all this the fact that your oil is much thicker when it's cold, and tends to act more like pancake syrup than a lubricant, which your engine has to work harder to pump.
It could be a number of things....if the distributer has a hair line crack it could be drawing moisture over night.
Getting a new battery with more cranking amps or taking your starter apart and cleaning it might solve the problem.
Memory (+12v Constant) Red/Green
Ignition (+12v Switched) Blue/Yellow
Ground (-) Black
Power Antenna Red/White
Left Front Speaker (+) Yellow
Left Front Speaker (-) Blue/Red
Right Front Speaker (+) White
Right Front Speaker (-) Blue/Black
Left Rear Speaker (+) Yellow/White
Left Rear Speaker (-) Blue/Red
Right Rear Speaker (+) White/Blue
Right Rear Speaker (-) Blue/Black
I'm pretty sure you can even fit a 300zx twin turbo engine (VG30dett)into your 240sx. Many people would perfer a skyline turbo/twin turbo engine(RB25det/RB26dett) though. All you need is lots of money and access to a shop to change your motor/transmition mounts, and cut off some stuff to make room. If you're interested, check this guy 1991 240sx with a skyline motor, and they may even help you with your 300zx engine if you contact them. http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/projects.php
I'm positive you can put a vg30dett in a 240sx cuz people put ls1 corvette engines in them all the time my friend a has one with a ls2 in it
did this just last month. CHECK the build date of the car (on tag that resides on the pillar between the doors, there are 3 possible water pumps, you gotta get this one right), get, or make sure you have the right pump. Remove rad fan(s), trying not to break the mounting bolts, take out the radiator and the accessory belts, remove the crank pulley (on installation this must be torqued to 80ft/lbs, or it will loosen) remove the timing belt cover(s), and the timing belt so you are just staring at the front of the engine. The pump is at the bottom right of all this mess if you are standing at the front bumper looking in. Remove all the hoses attached to the water pump, carefully inspecting them, you want to replace them (if needed) NOW, they are a witch later. Remove the water pump bolts noting their location, there are 3 different lengths, replace it being careful, the block will strip BEFORE you break a bolt, you don't want to go there. Put everything back together, replace the timing belt, being careful to get the timing right. The belt adjuster should be SLOWLY compressed in a hydraulic press, too fast and you will be buying a new one (I have used a hydraulic floor jack and a parked truck to do this if no press is available) use a finishing nail, or small Allen key to hold the adjuster in a compressed position (through the holes). Mount the adjuster, double check the timing belt position before and after releasing the adjuster, sometimes this takes a couple of tries, don't be ashamed, it is a bi*ch. Carry on replacing all you took off. Sometimes refilling the cooling system can be a problem, it seems that some cars tend to air lock, I filled mine slowly and ran it with the cap off until the thermostat opened, topping it up afterward. Go for a drive checking the coolant level frequently for about the next week. This "fun" little job is probably best done on a set of ramps.
mine only had central had to install remote entry afterwards mine only had central had to install remote entry afterwards
Underneath the passenger side floor. Underneath the carpeting where the passenger would put his/her feet, there is a metal plate. Take off the metal plate to reveal the ECM.
The trim by the door may have to be removed to lift the carpet.
Hi About every 60,000 miles or so. If you have 150K on yours, you're overdue. Phil
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