It could be the coolant sensor or the rotor sensor, both play a big part in the idle and gas mixture for the car. I found out the hard way. My calais kept shutting down on me.

I have an 89 Olds Cutlass Calais SL...and you add coolant, very slowly, to the reservoir on the passenger side of the engine compartment. A little coolant, a little water, a little more coolant, a little more water...you get the idea. mixing the antifreeze 50 / 50 to start with will cut down on the confuse...tuner1978

i had this same problem with my 85 and about 3 months later my fuel pump went out changed it, workds fine now

In the center console, ( if you have a computer readout system be carefull) gently pull the trim cover off, it just snaps in place, once removed, there will be 2 bolts at the bottom of the stereo, remove tham and the stereo slides out. If you plan to put in an after market radio, be sure it is the same size as the original, or you will have to purchase a mounting kit for it, also you will need a wiring harness to attach to the new aftermarket stereo so it will plug into the original stereo wiring for the car.

Its simple. Get your car up on ramps and look for an electrical wiring harness that goes into the tranny. Usually it is a two or three wire connector. Simply disconnect it and that should solve your shift problem "if" that "IS" the problem. In other words if your TCC is bad than disconnecting it will make your tranny operate without lock up. At worst you will lose 1 MPG.

Yes you can fit 20" rims on you 1979 cutlass, if you wanted to you could fit 22" rims with low profile tires with the stock springs.

Was there a 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais? I see them listed at 1988-1991. Assuming that you mean "wiper blade" (blade and frame) which are replaced often rather than "wiper arm" (piece from the spindle at the hood to the wiper blade) which are rarely ever replaced, ALL 1988-1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais' have 3/16" Side Lock wiper arm attachments. See Sources and Related Links below.

If its the same as a 91 w/ 2.5... Mounted to the back of the ignition module heat sink. You have to removed the ignition module / coil pack assembly. The crank sensor is mounted to the rear. In my case, it was a real pain in the butt... the o-ring had cooked itself to the block making a half hour job into a 4 hour job.

To find out what is wrong with it you will have to take it to a repair shop or the ford dealer with a computer to hook it up, but the engine light being on something is wrong with the car, it kinda sounds like a ingition coil pack going out, if so it will only get worse and could also be many other little things, but it must be repaired before the light will go off, and needs to be repairs ASAP so it doesnt cause anymore damage, that is why the light came on is for it to be serviced and repairs ASAP.

I have the same problem with a 2001 LS V8 sport. They diagnosed this earlier this year when I felt a subtle pulsing in the car during heavy acceleration. They said they must change both according to Lincoln service number SSM 512 481 091 and replace BOTH pumps (which shocked me to find there was two). They listed the pumps as YW42-9275-BC and YW42-9H307-BA. Apparently these cross reference to part number E2274M from Airtex but I'll know more soon as it is on order from my local jobber. I do know that if you order a 'pump' from A/C number MU2013 you will get a sender unit only which is listed improperly (and probably why the Airtex costs about 25% more). One other item the dealer replaced on my LS was the Idle solonoid but that shouldn't impact the car while driving, just while idling.

I have a 1977 cutlass calais with t tops sadly the passenger side top shatered due to the car being trailered and catching a stone! Does anyone know where to get one iv looked endlessly!

With the keys on, hold down the two arrow buttons on dash til they beep & display "service reset"Release the two arrow buttons and then hold the top right button till dash beeps & displays "no items".

the teeth on the starter could be worn out or the teeth on the flywheel could be worn out ... hopefully for you its just the starter if its the flywheel you will have to pull the tranny ...

Is it digital dash or analog ???

If digital remove the bottom cover below the dash on right side there's a 4 inche by 4 inche box that needs to be replace Nissan calls the boxes power packs.. if analog the instrument cluster is bad..

If digital dash and you know how to solder remove the power supply from the dash then remove the cover on it. Re-solder all the solder connections that you can. Even if they look good they may be bad. After time small cracks occur and you end up with a "cold solder joint".

If you're not able to do it yourself of find someone to help you can purchase a re-conditioned unit from:

http://www.webwarden.net/wildbill/digital_dash.php

Oh yeah, check the rear wiper and make sure it has power because it supposedly supplies power to the dash (go figure).

Yes, but dont do it as you can do substamtial damage