OK, a late 80GM A & X body. Most Manifold Absolute Pressure sensors are located on the firewall with GM Vehicles. Others arelocated affixed to the top of the engine somewhere along the intake area. Try looking from the center of the firewall on over remotely close to the vacuum booster which is a huge frisbee on its side shaped thing. The MAP is about an inch high, about 1/2 inch thick and about 4 inches wide. there is a small rubber vacuum boot pluged into it with a vacuum capilarey line going to the bottom of the throttle body or manifold, and a connector off of its rear. If the Olds has a Mass Air Flow Sensor, it would be in the same spot as all Mass Air Flow Sensors are put. The greatest air mass travel area of the engines air input. A cylindrical spaped doo-dad that has a screen on both sides, and a wire and or ring shaped thing inside the screened cage. WARNING! Mass air Flow Sensors are super tempremental. Do not remove the screens on the sensor for greater performance or any reason. You could only do more damage than good. If you touch and bend the heat wire on the MAF sensor, the ONLY place you can successfully install it is a slam dunk straight into the garbage can. Funny how so many people don't believe that can be true, and wind up buying a new part for the tune of about 2 to 5 bills (Ben Franklins). The coolant sensors (yes, with an "s") theres two of them. One is a switch and the other a sender. They're pretty important on a GM car. Even if your thermostat and cooling system is physically and mechanically working great, without the switch sensor, overheat is likely to occur, esp. in stop and go summertime. The first more important temp sensor is the coolant fan switch which screws into the engine's cylinder head. It's single usually green lead goes to a relay which is what really supplies the juice to the fan. Note: This relay is a commonly replaced part. It fails after a half million cycles or so, so if you have overheats due to electric coolant fan failure, the relay could likely be the culprit. Try borrow/swapping with one that you know works for a fact. The other coolant temp sensor is located somewhere on the coolant housing between the upper radiator hose coolant inlet and the thermostat housing. Although not as directly critical as the switch that operates the fan relay, this is a sender sensor which means it will have a variable resistance. It has two wires going to it, neither which are grounded by the sensor. The sensor supplies the return signal to the ECU(ECM in this case) telling it the approximate temp range of the engine and provides its portion of information to the computer toward proper engine management. If you are having problems still, Be sure to only visit well trained automotive technicians, such as auto service garages that employ ASE certified technicians.
If it is stalling when putting it into gear but not while idleing I would check your mass air flow sensor. It may need to be cleaned or replaced. If it is stalling when putting it into gear but not while idleing I would check your mass air flow sensor. It may need to be cleaned or replaced.
"The turn signal flasher, a small cannister-shaped unit located under the dash, in a clip to the left of the steering column...to replace the flasher, simply unplug it and pull it out of the clip...installation is the reverse of removal." -Haynes Manual
prob a bad battery if it doesn't get enough charge from altenater to resupply cold cranking amps iniatal cranking will be hard so get your altenater and battery checked Sometimes it can be the oil. Some people don
The starter is located in the front center above the axle.
1. The first thing you want to do is disconnect the negative battery cable so nothing will short. 2. If it�s easier then raise the front end up on jack stands and then remove the dust cover if it has one. 3. When under the car disconnect the battery cable and the solenoid wire. 4. Remove the bolts that hold it in place. 5. Remove the starter and take note the location of the shims. 6. And just do the opposite of removal to put in the new starter. The new starter will come with new shims. Put the new shim(s) in exactly the same place. Otherwise you will get a screech noise each time it starts but may go away.
Note: On some cars you have to remove the front exhaust manifold and sometime. the AC condenser house but this is only on some models and sometimes you don't have to remove the house. Just be careful.
It takes a special gauge to install the crank sensor. It can be rented from some parts stores.
Thermal relay is stuck. Replace it.
located by the glove box, close to the fuse box as well. There are 2 flashers. I read many different tips, but finally found my turn signal flasher right on top of the ash tray assembly. Take out ashtray. Remove 4 small hex head screws to remove the assembly that the ashtray slides in to. I found the turn signal flasher in a clip on the top side of that assembly. The hazard flasher was to the outside of the glove compartment. You have to remove the glove box. You will see a wiring harness on the outboard side, right above the light that lights the area where the passenger's feet are. The flasher is plugged in on the side that you cannot see. You will never know it is there, if it is not working and "ticking." Best way to look for it is probably with a "mirror on a stick." Good luck hope this saves you having to disassemble your entire dash, like me...
Terra means Earth, Ciera means a female given name of modern American usage, variant of Ciara or Sierra In Spanish, tierra means earth/land and sierra means mountains, so tierra sierra would be mountainous land.
It's in the glove box.
1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera turn signal flasher is behind the fuse panel. The 4-way flasher is to the right side of the glove box below the horn relay.
Along the right side on the steering column.
If it is a 3.8 there will be a tension pulley at the center of the engine. if you are standing on the right side of the car (P/S) That pulley will have a 1/2 ratchet slot in its center. Taking your 1/2 ratchet handle place it in the slot (to make this a bit easier I use some type of extension, be it a bar or a large box end wrench. Lock the ratchet handle so that it will push towards the back of the car. This will take the pressure off of the tension pulley. You will now be able to remove the belt. Note: There should be a diagram of how the belt is to be placed on the or around the radiator. It would not be unheard of to find the diagram in your owners manual. It is worth a shot. Make sure that all the ridges of the belt are in the slots on the pulley's. Release the ratchet tension and there you have it. The information about the 1/2 ratchet is incorrect. The pulley has a nut on it. Get the correct socket size, place it on the nut with a 1/2" ratchet handle and do all the rest.
Behind the fuse pannel in the dash. Remove the 4 9/32" head screws hoding the fuse box to the dash. (you will have to remove the glove box door strap, 1 screw, to get to the bottom screws) The fuse box will pull out a few inches. You will see the signal flasher mounted to the dash right behind and slightly to the left behind the fuse box.
if its popping back out on its own, its probably just a bad "cam" in the steering column that automaticly turns off your turn signal when you make a turn. If the turn handle stays in that position when it shuts off, it sounds like an electricity ghost.
the turn signal has a granny timer on it, to prevent the 100 mile turn signal :) its supposed to turn off by itself if it hasn't been tripped by the steering cam.
First, remove the door panel. This includes removing all the attaching screws, then prying off the panel. There are a few plastic fasteners that will come loose. You can re-use them when re-installing the panel or buy new ones -- they're cheap. Second, take an inventory of the problem. Chances are the connecting mechanism attaching the steel rod to the door handle has busted off. You'll need to purchase a new handle off of E-bay for about $12. To install it, you will have to use a drill (about a 1/8" bit) and drill out the center of the one rivet that holds the handle in place. Once you've drilled through it (it takes a little patience and a good drill bit), the handle falls off. After feeding the endpiece of steel door rod into the new replacement handle, place the handle into place, lining up the hole in the handle to the mounting hole in the door. Then use a thick, short bolt or screw to attach it to the door at the mounting hole. Then re-attach the inside door panel. Done!
a lose accelorater cable may be to blame. or a bad air filter, bad oil, poor vaccumm, low compresion
Car just had manifold intake gasket work done, it idles very high in neutral and park, Drive is good, but wants to jump out of the gate. Any suggestions?
the flasher is on the right side under the glove box.
Possible flasher?, I would take another look at all the bulbs that work in parking mode and in turn signal mode on the left side. After you see where each one is, then do the same on the right. I think you'll find you overlooked one or didn't check them while they were in the parking mode. A turnsignal/parking bulb has 2 filiments, one for each situation. Post you results.
It is definitely because a bulb on that side (left or right) is burnt out. I had a 1990 Cutlass, so I know.
most likely in the glove box, under driver's side dash, under hood or in trunk
To replace the cylindrical flasher relay, pull out the ash tray to its fullest, and remove the top two bolts inside, one on each side. Push the ash tray mostly in so you can access the bottom two bolts, one on each side. Pull out and lower the ash tray until the tube-looking bulb in the center, which is hidden behind the panel, appears. Don't pull out too far, as wires still connect this bulb. With a pliers, grab the left plastic side of the bulb where the wires connect, and slowly twist away from you, pulling out at the same time, until the bulb is freed. Lower the ash tray rear and pull a bit to the left until the cylindrical flasher appears. It is clamped to the very right side end of the ash tray. Pull it out of its clamps. Remove the flasher from the pair of wire plugs. You may have to use a regular screw driver to jimmy them loose. Replace the flasher. Reverse the process.under dash on drivers sideOn my 87 Cutlass Ciera it was located under the dash, fairly close to the steering column. I had to remove a section of plastic to get at it. I changed mine out a few years ago so cant remember in any more detail where it was.
93 Olds Cutlass Ciera (Canadian)
Had the emergency flasher fail on my Ciera. Found it behind the glove box on
the passenger side of the car inside a brown coloured cover (about 3 in long,
2.5 in high and about 1.5 in wide). The turn signal flasher was mounted on the passenger side of the fuse box - you can see it when you remove the glove box. Hope this helps someone.
Hey Nathan==Some batteries need to be charged before they will start a car. If the lights are bright and when you try to start the car with them on they go out you might have a bad starter. First though take the cables off and clean them good and make sure there is a good ground between the engine and the body. This ground is very important. GoodluckJoe Everything previously stated is correct, make sure those contacts are clean and don't have any play. Check the connections on both terminals on the battery, and also to the starter, could be a bad solenoid (usually mounted to the starter on GM's). Good luck If the A/C compressor and clutch are locked up, they will not let the serpentine belt turn, thus the engine will not turn over.
serpentine belt is located to the to the left side of the engine when standing in front of the car. locate the tensioner (it looks like a pulley with a short metal arm attachiing it to the engine. in the center of that pulley you take and wrench that fits that nut(i think a 15mm)then pull the wrench towards you taking tension off the belt, making sure you reroute the belt in the right way, do the same with the tensioner to allow slack to put the new belt on.
To remove the radio. 1. remove the ashtray, and 2 corner vent diffusers. There are bolts to remove in ashtray area and inside Left/right most vents. 2. remover the rubber steering wheel trim ring. then remove the whole vent diffuser assembley. 3. remove the 4 screws at the top of the instrument cluster. and the 4-5 at the bottom. (covered up by the vent piece).
Remove the old one and put the new one in. Extremely difficult job. -Long answer: Remove the door panel. Find the motor and drill out the rivets or get the old motor out by any means necessary. Unplug the motor
Bolt in your new window motor and plug it back it. Before you replace the door panel, turn your car back on and make sure that the window motor is working. If it works replace the door panel. If not check the fit of the motor and the wiring.
takes about 3 hours your first time if you have all the tools you need and know how to get the door panel off.
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