if your latch just broke, use a vice grip. if the cable itself has snapped, it gets tricker. my 2nd cutlass's cable snapped. i had to lift and jerk the hood manually until it came loose.

Gravity affects inertia. The lower the gravity, the more inertia.

Yes, but the signal lights are the wrong shape.

yes

No

You have to get the car high off the groung and there a 2 straps holding the tank up remove all hoses attached then remove the 4 screws holding the tank up. When start to drop the tank double check to make sure all hoses are dissconnected some are held on with the hose clamp and some are held on with GM's Quick Disconnect clips. Then remove from under car.

I found it in my repair manual. It is about 26 to 32 psi.

Yes what do I do

The 1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera has fairly unique "3/16" side lock" wiper arm attachments. See Sources and Related Links below for installation videos. Also, purchase the replacement blades first and there will be additional instructions/illustrations on the replacement packages. Its very easy.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

I just replaced the crankshaft position locator (crank sensor) on my 89 Cutlass Supreme SL. Although I don't know if this will help since mine was a 2.8 L V6 (Eng Code W), but mine was located between the oil pan and transmission pan on the backside of the engine, just above the oil pan. In other words, its between the engine and the firewall on the bottom side.

You have to crawl under the car..... BE SURE TO USE JACK STANDS AND DONT TRUST JUST A JACK. It required a 5/16 closed end wrench. Use the closed end wrench to avoid stripping the bolt head. Its very tight in there. I dropped that wrench on my face at least 20 times. Once you get the one bolt unbolted, GENTLY pry it out with a very small screwdriver. Be super careful not to break it off while prying it out.

I was told if it breaks off, there is nothing you can do except knock it through and remove the oil pan to retrieve it. And you cant remove the oilpan without pulling the engine. Once I had it unbolted, it would turn, with a rag, but wouldn't pop out. It took quite a bit to get it out.

I think (so far) this has solved my problem with the car dieing and not starting for 2 hours. I also replaced the ignition module, which was also a pain but it was located on the front side of the engine.

check the fuses first, there should b a fuse for the instrument panel check the fuses first, there should b a fuse for the instrument panel

the linkages have either been removed/disconnected from inside the door panel (maybe parted out) or the frame has torqued (as in a crash) and they are jammed

If handle has no resistance the handle it's self is broken. When handle has a constant lite resistance from a spring it will be linkage from handle to latch disconnected or damaged (The linkage has small plastic clips holding it in place on each end and break fairly easily.)

Changing the alternator calls for 4 or 5 hours but you have to access it by removing your right front tire, removing the brake assy, the CV axle and then drop your lower control arm out of the way. It's a big job for a yard repair so good luck!

Cylinder head to block torque = 80 ft-lbs.

15

.030"

THE FIRST THING THAT YOU WANT TO DO IS TO TAKE OFF the negative battery cable, then you have to take out the floor console and shifter handl. Then you have to remove the panels under the glove box on the passenger side over to the driverside and then on the passenger side right next to the right inside panel right under the glove box next to the fire wall you can see the blower motor there are three 7mm screws to take out and then just unplug it and take it out replacement is just the opposite.

That is a typical thing on most cars, let it cool down some then try again

Use a 10 inch adjustable wrench and rotate the idler pulley arm CCW to relieve the tension on the belt. The tensioner arm has a boss on the casting that can be used to seat the wrench. I have seen some arms with a 3/8" square hole cast into the arm to accomodate a breaker bar drive instead of having a boss with flats. Relieving the tension will allow the belt to slip off the grooved pulley.

Take it to a shop and wait across the street in a Starbucks

If you have followed the procedure in the manual and it will not respond be sure the emergency brake is pulled on because the older convertibles have an interlock switch tied into the emergency brake to stop people from trying to put the top up or down when moving.

This could be your problem.....or not ....the new cars have several sensors that all must work or no top operation and ti can get VERY expensive to keep them working. A friend spent $7K on top repairs over a three year period before he gave up and dumped his car.

I hope you have better results.