Open the glove box, which should be opened by turning the round lock. Then, take everything out of the glove box. Now, pull the "Box" itself out. The fuses are located here.

ANSWER

On my 95 cutlass supreme, the fuse box is on the side of the dash, right inside the passenger side door. You have to remove a panel that says "fuses" on it.

"I,m trying to do the same thing on my 88. I talked to a friend and he said you need a special tool to get them out. I,m still looking will let you know if i come up with anything"

MODIFICATION OF ANSWER:

No Special tool is needed. Just make sure you hit both pits with some penetrating oil for a good few days before you do this as they are probably in tight and not rust free. Use the following steps:

1) Support the door (open obviously) well either by straps from the ceiling or from below with a friend holding the door upright. The door should not be able to move much when the pins are removed.

2) Remove the door spring by inserting a large screw driver behind the spring and pulling down. Don't worry about this spring flying anywhere... its not under that much tension. Turn your head when you pull down just as a precaution.

3) Now comes the fun part. The top pin has (had on mine) a blop of metal on the tip of the pin to prevent the pin from falling down even though it never will... this can be chipped off with a screw driver and hammer. Next take the side of the extension that usually goes in the wratchet and put it over the head of the pin. Strike the pin down. A direct downward hit cannot be accomplished but the angle is enough to still push the pin down. You may need a wrench on the middle of the pin to help turn/pull down as well. It takes some time but it will happen eventually.

4) At this point I removed the rubber wire through from the door to get some clearance for the bottom pin.

5) The bottom pin is much easier to remove than the top, but the principle is the same only you're going up this time. There is no glop on the tip of this pin. It gets tight when the pin starts to come all the way out as it may push into the wire loom. Make sure to keep the wires to the side of the pin as it's coming out.

6) Your door should be able to slide from the car about 3-5 inches depending on the slack in the wire loom. At this point remove all the old bushings by chiseling them out with a hammer and screwdriver or chisel of your choice. The bushing has a flanged side, just like a washer so make sure you are chiseling at the opposite side (inside of the hinge outward). I believe the top bushings are on the car side and the bottom are on the door side.

7) Reinstall the new bushings with a homemade puller tool. I used a small socket just wider than the bushing, bolt, and washers on the head and bolt side. If you're mechanically inclined at all you should be able to figure out how this works.

8) Once this is done, move the door back into place and liberally grease the pins and bushings. Then tap the pins back in the way they came out. They should go in very easily. Again there will be some finessing around the wire loom for the bottom pin but it's manageable.

9) Once in reattach the wire loom shroud to the door and install the spring with a door spring compressor tool (about $10US). Door should now close like a dream.

I forgot to mention that if your vehicle is in good condition and you're worried about scratching the front fender and or door, I've heard that a good method is to use painter's tape along the edge of the fender and anywhere else you're worried about contact (probably safer with a couple layers). I didn't care to about this on mine as it was a 19 year old POS.

-Nick