I found this at www.installdr.com Hope it helps... All saturns ranging from 1995 thru 1999 have the following GM wire colors... Light Gray = left front speaker(-) Tan = left front speaker(+) Light Green = right front speaker(-) Dark Green = right front speaker(+) Black = Ground wire Gray = Headlight Dimmer Wire Pink = Power Antenna Turn On Yellow = +12 Volt Ignition Wire Orange = +12 Volt Battery Wire Light Blue = right rear speaker(-) Dark Blue = right rear speaker(+) Yellow = left rear speaker(-) Brown = left rear speaker(+)

First check all fuses, there should be two: one inside the car under the dash, most commonly in drivers area; and the other is under the hood.

If your fuses are good, and you can pull the stereo, take a multi-meter and measure for 12v at the wiring harness.

Chrysler radios are notorious for having bad power switches too. These can be costly to replace.

Hope this helps.

M.

Fuses usually blow when something is wrong. You may have a wire with the insulation worn off. You may have a bad relay. You may have a bad starter motor. Start at the point of the fuse and follow the wire. Look for the bad spot.

In all honesty and I say this without jest it's the one marked "oil" good luck.

frequency of the carrier is varied in accordance to the message signal in FM.

Fm receivers are less complex.

in Fm lower frequencies produce variation to the modulation index.

phase of the carrier is varied in accordance to the message signal in PM.

Pm receivers require proper synchronization so it is complex. Modulation index is independent of audio frequency

It is part of the rear window defroster grid.

ummm from what you describe it seems to me whoever had the car before you rerouted the fan to a all power line meaning they rewired it to a positive wire so fan comes on constant it may be going right to batt or fuse box

Check the coolant temperature sending unit and replace it if you need to if the fans have not been rewired. By default, one fan runs pretty much all the time, with the second fan kicking in when it detects a rise in temperature (due to the coolant temperature sending unit) or when the A/C is switched on. If it is not the sending unit, it could be in the wiring for the A/C.

If it has one, it'll be in your trunk, most likely mounted to the DaffleBoard (The area your speakers are mounted)

You have to step on the brake pedal to shift to any gear from "Park"

We had the same problem with our LHS. We first replaced the thermostate and it still happened. So we keep looking and the lower radiator hose was colapsing. You might check the hoses after you replace the thermostate. Hope this helps.

Yes, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank.

The Chrysler LHS comes standard with a speed proportional rack and pinion power steering assembly.

Idle speed is not adjustable. It is computer controlled, and if incorrect there is as sensor or vacuum problem.

Drain the water from the radiator. Remove the radiator hoses. Remove the radiator stabilizer arm. Remove the radiator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new radiator.

Chrysler LHS was created in 1994.

On each of the exhuast manifolds right behind the convertor

When my water pump went on mine, my car would constantly overheat for no reason, there is a safety valve on the pump which lets coolant out of it when the car is running and pressure builds up. You have it pressure tested, the water pump will normally leak externally under pressure.

Left Hand Side

Three.

When you're facing the front of car, it's on the left side at the front, enclosed in a rectangular black box. Remove the top of the box and you'll see it. The K&N replacment number is 33-2066-1.

Obviously a problem with the radio, mine does the same as well as some other funky thinks with the buttons. I too have the same radio you describe as well as the same car.

Standard labor time to remove and replace the transimssion without transfer of parts on a 1999 Chrysler LHS is 5.1 hours, with complete transfer of parts, it's 5.7 hours.