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TEST P0305-Al REPAIRING - CYLINDER #5 MSF1RE (OBD II)

Perform, DTC TEST Before Proceeding

Name of code: Cylinder #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, #6 Misfire

When monitored: With the engine running, after successfully performing a

crank sensor learn.

Set condition: When more than a 2% misfire rate is measured during two

trips, or with a 10% to 30% misfire rate during one trip.

Theory of operation: Misfire is detected by the crankshaft speed fluctuation

(CSF) method. This method compares the engine speed difference between

the cylinders in firing order. The speed is detected by the crankshaft position

sensor. An RPM value is set for each cylinder for comparison. When an RPM

difference of more than 10 RPM between cylinders, a misfire count of 1 is

recorded. The RPM can vary 1 to 10 RPM depending on engine load. Two

types of misfire are detected: a two-trip misfire, which is about 2% and

results in an emissions increase, or a one-trip misfire, which Is about

10-30% and will cause damage to the catalyic converter.

Possible causes:

• Secondary ignition wires

. Faulty connections

. Spark plug, wire, or connector

. Mechanical engine problem

. Injectors

•PCM

' ignition coil circuit

'Contaminated fuel

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The tank will have to be removed, and flushed.

then I would invest in a locking gas cap..

The whole sugar in the tank thing appears to be an urban legend/myth so tank removal or replacement would be unnecessary.

Read more at:

http://www.snopes.com/autos/grace/sugar.asp

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It is on the passenger's side fender well under the air filter housing

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support the rear tires chocks, emergency brake etc..... place vehicle in neutral jack up front end and support with jack stands on each side of the vehicle do a radial and axial check grab the tire on forward and aft side of the tire gently rock the tire side to side to feel any play if so have some look under neath to see if there is slop in the outer or inner tie rods why you have the vehicle off the ground, place your hands on the top and bottom of the wheel gently push your top hand and pull with your bottom hand at the same time then reverse the order. pull the top hand and push with your lower hand. simultaneously doing this checks for play in your wheel bearings, balljoints, and control arm bushings. jaybird1980

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There is a problem with the SRS system. Take it to the dealer for immediate service. Do not atttempt to repair this yourself. This is not a DIY repair.

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I had the same problem with my 1997 LHS until about 10 minutes ago. If you go into your fuse box (To the left of the steering wheel, behind the removeable panel that is exposed when the door is open) the fuse for the radio/horn is #8. Check to see if the metal piece inside the fuse is broken, if it is broken, replace it with a 20 amp fuse. I hope I helped and good luck!

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The heater core on the Chrysler LHS in behind the dash in the heater box. Unless you have the JDM version, then the heater core is in the oil pan next to the turbo.

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I just got this changed on my car. The switch costs about 8 bucks at the local auto part store.Put the car on a lift or jack it up. right under the radiator youll see something that looks like the plug you just bought. un clip the old one put the new one on. its in the gap between the radiator and oil pan.

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NO NO AND NO, an amp install kit is needed, and you need to tap at the battery. Dont even think about running this big wire through the door jamb, run it through an existing gromit in the firewall and fuse the wire (40-60 amp) within 12 inches of the battery. Disconnect the negative battery wire before you do anything. Ground the amp to solid frame (seatbelt or seat bolts and large ring connectors work well), if you dont, it will ground through the rca cables and make large amounts of smoke when you turn it on. RELENTLESS

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It's behind the inspection cover it's run by the timing belt you should change this after 100,000 km you should also have the timing belt changed at the same time

Chrysler didn't make a 1993 model year LHS.

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I recommend you don't mess with it. Go to a professional installation shop.

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First, remove the broken belt very carefully. Then, prepare your work area. Having the right tools are critical. A serpentine belt remover/adjuster, Mopar Part #23-w3221 can really help save you time. It is a silver plier-looking tool with a gold tip that has a solid microprocessor embedded into the base. Now, jack up the front end with tire jacks and stablizers. Make sure your battery is fully disconnected. Take your spare key, and insert into the lip of the fuse box and twist 1/3 turn to the left. Now press hard, forcing the top to pop. Wash out the air cleaner while your at it or you may wish you had. Dust in a power converter steering box modulator rack box is a no no. Ok, pop a couple of beers, chug one and sip the other. At this point you will either start getting sleepy or creepy. Pop a couple more beers, power drain these down your esophogus and hopefully the creepy thing will fade quickly. Intall the belt according to the package schematic, but without adding the d-clip retainer ring supplied. You may need to bend the alignment washer 6-7 degrees south of the ring equator balance indicator. Once the belt is loosely hung on the balance jam level bar, take up about 34mm of slack. More or less, and you can kiss the new belt goodbye. Pop the last two beers of the six pack, and make it a day. Good luck and have a little fun.

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Under the dash close to the steering column.

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I had the same problem with my 1995 LHS. The only remedy is to carry a set of pliers in your glove box. I replaced the cable handle once but it broke again.

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Just replaced them....there are two of them....they are located under the car on the driver's side...back behind the wheel...pretty easy to find...and easy to replace...just "unclip" them...and "clip" in the new ones....piece a cake.

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Back right side in front of wheel, underneath

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There are sensors at each wheel that reads magnectic impluses. They can be damaged quite easily and should be taken care od and kept clean.

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if you get up under the car and look at the oil pan, you will see a big circle with a nut in the center of it, theres your filter, right behind that.

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I have a 1995 LHS that I purchased new in which I now have 188,000 miles and in both instances of the head lights failing was due to an open circuit in the multi function switch that is located on and in the steering column. The parking lights still worked however, the low beam headlamps & euro lamps wouldn't. The high beam would only work if I pulled the multi function switch toward me & held it in place. I do most of my own maintanence however, since the steering wheel has to be pulled & column taken apart I went back to Chrysler. $350 with tax.

Check the fuses first. The high beams and low beams are controlled by different fuses.

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Hi I have a 99 Concorde lxi and just recently install a new radio I got the wiring diagram from www.installdr.com and it worked perfectly.

Good Luck!

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Using a torx head wrench, remove the two screws holding each individual coil to the top of the motor. Once removed, the coil comes straight up and off revealing the spark plug below. The engine has no spark plug wires (a good thing if you ask me). Removing the spark plugs are extremely easy to do!

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The fuse for the cigarette lighter on a 1996 Chrysler LHS is located in the fuse box panel located on the side of the dash when you open the driver side door. Pull the cover off and look for 20A LIGHTER AMP HORN. I had my lighter go out as well. But when it went out, the radio went out as well as the horn. The trunk would pop open on its own. Which is dangerous when you are driving and all of a sudden it flies open. Get you a cheap fuse set at Auto Zone or Pep Boys, etc. that comes with a fuse tester. Once you replace this fuse, all other components effected by this short will be back to normal.

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.035 in.

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the fuse is blown. they are on the same fuse

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un-hook the negative battery cable from the battery for 15 minutes and then re-attach cable.