That'll be a bulb from inside the engine compartment, behind the lamp.
my 1998 ford escort has had this problem for a couple days and I went to Shucks and borrowed their fail code sensor for free. when I hooked up the code sensor, it said that our shift solenoid was failing. So, your shift solenoid may have gone out if you have an automatic transmission.
it is just to the right of the thermostat housing with a 3 wire connector attached to it.
Also when replacing it with a new one there should be a spacer on the bottom. You install the new one pressing it all the way down. The spacer will rub off after you start the engine.
This is a real pain. First in the wheel wells you need to remove the screws that hold on the bumper facia. The Manuel say only the side you need to replace the lamps on. I would do both sides to be done with it Then you need too remove the whole headlight assembly. you will need a torx screw drive. These screws are very long. You might even want an extra set handy as mine were stripped and needed to be replaced. You should now be able to get to the bulbs.
All LH body(Chrysler Concorde, Chrysler LHS, Dodged Intrepid, Eagle Vision and 1994 and on Chrysler New Yorkers) car take R-134A freon
I had the same problem. Everytime I would turn the ignition past Accesory to the On position the 20A fuse would pop. I went through 15 or so fuses. I could get it to start every now and then, so one time it started I drove it up to Sears Auto and they diagnosed the Battery as having a bad cell. Replaced the battery and haven't pop a fuse since then.
Popping the 20A ignition fuse....have your battery tested and probably replaced!
check the starter too if battery is good
I had this problem as well. It turned out to be the starter. It occurs when you move to "start" and the starter fails to engage. Whether this was simply a bad solenoid, or something else in the starter, I can't say for sure. In short, if the engine didn't immediately turn, the fuse would blow in about 2 seconds. I got around it for quite a while by being very careful to not hold the switch in start unless I detected the engine turning over. Eventually the starter ws relaced and all is well.
your input clutch assembly is probably burnt up you will have to smell the fluid or have some transmission technician check the clutch volume indexes with a drb (diagnostic tool)AnswerActually it's probably your spped sensor that is located on the trans. Chrysler has always had a problem with them. My car just did the same thing, part is about $ 30. AnswerI friend of mine had the transmission replaced on his '94 Concorde about two yers ago. It was horribly expensive: more than two thousand dollars!
Your car is probably stuck in " Limp Home Mode ", which is when the cars computer senses something bad is going to happen to the trans so it will only allow the car to run in reverse or 2nd gear.
If same engine and same year then yes.
Before the key will come out of the lock.
The Keyway should be in the vertical position, the same position it was in when
the key was put into the lock.
Be very careful not to damage the dust shutter door
at the entrance to the keyway.
It is held in place by a small hinge pin and spring.
If it breaks, remove the parts from the keyway.
Locksmiths: Have experience and tools for broken key removal.
AAA Automobile Club locksmiths, may be a good choice.
Only do one side at a time! The caliper is held in place by two long bolts, usually 10 mm, be ready for anything up to 13 mm and SAE threads up to 3/8. Remove the bolts. Using a screw driver pry the caliper piston backwards into its seat or wait until the caliper assembly is removed and then use a C-clamp to press the caliper inwards. Now to remove the caliper assembly. Using a screw driver pry from the bottom of the assembly upwards. It will come loose and basically all that have to do now is replace the pads unless the rotor needs turned or replaced in which case with the caliper removed and hanging with something suitable so you don't screw up its attached rubber hose, wriggle the rotor free. It will come off. It might have little star shaped things holding it at the threads, but just pry those off. When you are ready to replace the assembly, after the rotor has been installed, tighten one of the lug nuts down to secure it in place. Don't forget to remove the lug nut once the caliper assembly has been replaced. Now onto the caliper. Where the bolts go, press the bushings outwards . Now replace the caliper by setting it back down into its seat, bottom first. Once in place you will probably have to wriggle it back and forth until the bolt holes line up. Resecure the bolts, make sure you take off the lug nut and then put your wheels back on. Congradulations. You just saved a min. $65.00 (labor) fee by doing it yourself.
That is part of the trans range sensor (trs) inside the trans on the valve body.
Looking at the top of the engine. Look between the runners of the intake manifold and you will see six square black boxes all held on by two star head screws. Remove the screws and pull up the coil boxes, under these are your plugs. Use a deep socket to change the plugs.
Take the car apart as you would to get to the front driver headlight. It involves taking out a few screws, headlight, plastic bottom coverlike under the bumper. It has one bolt that ties the plastic to the fender and it is hidden in a hole in the wheel well. You will se a plastic cover, oval in shape about two inchs long to remove. You will need a long extention tow get to the bolt. I found that on my 99 Concorde I just needed to remove bolts on one side of the car to be able to pull the plastic out far enough to expose and remove the front headlight. That exposes the windshield washer tank. three bolts and a coupl of wires and hoses and its out of there. The pump is attached to the tank. It pulls out of a rubber grommet. The hard part is the first part in locating the bolts to remove the plastic bumper if you will. That drove me nuts for awhile but it was an easy task and after that you know how to change the light bulbs too. Tim
Purchase a Haynes auto repair manual for your vehicle from almost any auto parts store(about$13.00). Look in either "engine" section or in "tune up" section.
the alternator is under the power steering pump on the driverside of the motor. for the removal. need to remove the top radiator support and electric fan. then you can see the bolts for removal.
If you are talking about the rear upper roof light, just pop out the lens with a small screw driver, which will expose the bulb. Remove the small steel reflector and pull the bulb out of the socket. Does anyone know how to replace the front upper console light bulbs? There is one screw in the front, but removing it does not let the assembly drop.
These engine have a high failure rate, if you dodnt change you oil regularly, these engines sludge up,...beware, google search "Chrysler engines" These engines ar a fortune to rebuild and the wreckers want an arm and a leg......remove 2.7... install 3.2.......good luck...
engine is low on oil, plugged oil filter, bad oil pump.
The problem may not be that the window has come off the track. I have a '98 Chrysler Concorde and the driver's side window wasn't operating correctly so I took the interior door panel off and found that one of the brackets that anchor the window to the track had broken. I tried to repair it with JB Weld but it didn't hold. I'm going to have to buy a new window.
On the top of the exhaust manifold is where the O2 sensors are located. There is an upstream and downstream sensor on each side of the engine. If the sensor is sensor 1 position 1, the sensor 1 means it is on the side of the first cylinder and position one means it is before the catalytic converter. If the sensor is sensor 1 position 2 it would still be on the side of the first cylinder but after the catylatic converter.
what is the red and white wire
In the gas tank.
I would check first to make sure both bulbs are good, sometimes one is out and we do not notice then the other blows and we think some thing is wrong with the circuit. I can't see it being a fuse as you have high beams. Sometimes you can look at the bulb and see if the element is still intact. There will be solid parallel wires with a smaller wire running between them this is the one that usually goes. If it is a 4 light system it each bulb will have one and a 2 light system each bulb will have two. Even if intact still replace at least one with a known good bulb then if it still doesn't light then check all connection then get a wiring diagram on switch and test switch.
hell yeah you may needa lift kit prolly just knuckles though but they will def fit ive seen ella chryslers sittin gangsta on 22"s
yeah the will fit without a lift kit I know I have 22 inch MOB Ange rims on my Chrysler lhs.......you just need to put adapters on them so the strut won't sit on the tire. You also may have to get small series tires.....hope this helps
you need 255/30/22 tires and spring lifts you can get from autozone for 30 bucks they set in the spring and raise the car height for no rub on the wells and no you don't need knuckles or spacers
The Crank position sensor is located on the right side behind the wheel about midway up the motor eaiseier to get to from the bottom with 10mm socket one bolt
Unless you are certified by the EPA to handle refridgerant, either leave this one to the professionals, or take the vehicle to a shop to drain the refridgerant. It is illegal to handle or dispose of the refridgerant unless you are certified by the EPA. With the refridgerant removed, # Disconnect the negative battery cable from the remote battery post located near the right strut tower. CAUTION After disconnecting the negative battery cable, wait 2 minutes for the driver's/passenger's air bag system capacitor to discharge before attempting to do any work around the steering column or instrument # Remove the instrument panel by removing or disconnecting the following: #* Shifter knob Allen screw #* Both instrument panel end covers NOTE On the LHS or 300M, remove the center bezel prior to the shifter bezel # Using a trim stick tool, gently pry upward on the shifter bezel; then, disconnect both wiring connectors and a light bulb socket connector; then, remove the socket. # Remove the 2 lower instrument panel cover screws (outside end) and disconnect the deck lid release switch wiring connector. Pull the lower instrument panel cover rearward releasing the clips. Remove the cable-to-brake release handle. Pull the cover rearward and remove it. # If equipped for 6 passengers, remove the lower floor bin. # If equipped for 5 passengers, remove or disconnect the following items: #* Center bezel using the trim stick #* Heater/air conditioning housing assembly control switch and the traction control switch wiring harnesses #* Bezel from the vehicle #* Two left side console side cover screws, pull the cover outward and remove from the vehicle #* Lower glove box door; the 2 screws are located at the right console side cover, pull outward and remove it #* 2 bracket screws and the 2 inside the console bin; then, remove the console #* 2 center lower instrument panel nuts #* 4 steel reinforcement-to-lower instrument panel cover bottom bolts #* 16-way DLC from the reinforcement #* left floor duct/silencer pad screw and the pad #* Steering column shrouds #* Shift interlock cable at the ignition switch #* Column wiring #* The under column duct section #* Left panel air conditioning outlet duct #* The 4 brake pedal support bracket-to-column mounting bolts #* Lower the steering column #* Heater/air conditioning housing and the Air bag Control Module (ACM) harness connectors then, the 2 ground eyelets from the floor tunnel near the bulkhead # Using a trim stick, carefully, pry out on the left and right A-pillar trim moldings and slide them rearward to remove them. # Using a trim stick, carefully pry upward on the instrument panel top cover, and remove it. # From both sides, remove the scuff plate screw. Using a trim stick, carefully, pry out the scuff plates and remove them. # Remove or disconnect the following: #* 3 right side cowl panel screws and the panel #* 3 left side cowl panel screws and the panel #* Remove the right side under dash silencer and pad #* 2 right side radio antenna and amplifier harness connectors #* Left side junction block and Body Control Module (BCM) harness connectors #* 8 instrument panel-to-chassis screws #* Pull the instrument panel rearward #* Instrument panel from the vehicle with the help of an assistant # Discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant. # Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse. # Place shop cloths in the interior to catch any excess coolant. # Remove or disconnect the following: #* Air cleaner hose and the air distribution duct #* Heater hoses-to-dash panel spring type fasteners and the heater hoses from the heater core. Plug the openings to prevent coolant spillage. #* Refrigerant lines-to-expansion valve nut and separate the refrigerant lines from the expansion valve. Plug the openings to prevent contamination. WARNING The air conditioning lubricant used in this system absorbs moisture readily. Do not leave any portion of the system open for any long period of time. #* 3 heater/air conditioning housing assembly-to-chassis nuts from the engine compartment #* 2 defroster duct screws and the duct #* Heater/air conditioning housing assembly-to-dash panel nuts and screws #* 4 rear seat heat duct nuts and the duct #* Rear seat heat duct elbow push-pin fastener #* Electrical connector from the heater/air conditioning housing assembly #* Pull the heater/air conditioning housing assembly rearward and remove it from the vehicle #* 2 heater core-to-heater/air conditioning housing assembly screws #* Heater core from the heater/air conditioning housing assembly Exploded view of the instrument panel-Intrepid Exploded view of the instrument panel-Concorde Exploded view of the instrument panel-LHS and 300M View of the remote battery cable terminal-LHS, 300M, Concorde and Intrepid View of the heater/air conditioning housing assembly-LHS, 300M, Concorde and Intrepid To install: # Install or connect the following: #* Heater core to the heater/air conditioning housing assembly #* 2 heater core-to-heater/air conditioning housing assembly screws #* Push the heater/air conditioning housing assembly forward (carefully) and install it to the vehicle #* Electrical connector to the heater/air conditioning housing assembly #* Rear seat heat duct elbow push pin fastener #* Duct and the 4 rear seat heat duct nuts #* Heater/air conditioning housing assembly-to-dash panel nuts and screws #* 2 defroster duct and the duct screws #* In the engine compartment, the 3 heater/air conditioning housing assembly-to-chassis nuts #* Refrigerant lines to the expansion valve #* Refrigerant lines-to-expansion valve nut #* Heater hoses to the heater core and the heater hoses-to-dash panel spring type fasteners #* Air cleaner hose and the air distribution duct # Refill the cooling system. # Evacuate, charge and leak-test the air conditioning system refrigerant. # Install the instrument panel by installing or connecting the following: #* Instrument panel to the vehicle #* Push the instrument panel forward #* 8 instrument panel-to-chassis screws #* Left side junction block and Body Control Module (BCM) harness connectors #* 2 right side radio antenna and amplifier harness connectors #* Right side under dash silencer and pad #* Left side cowl panel and the 3 panel screws #* Right side cowl panel and the 3 panel screws #* Install the scuff plate and the screw (both sides) #* Instrument panel top cover #* Left and right A-pillar trim moldings #* Heater/air conditioning housing and the Air bag Control Module (ACM) harness connectors then, the 2 ground eyelets to the floor tunnel near the bulkhead #* Raise the steering column #* The 4 brake pedal support bracket-to-column mounting bolts #* Left panel air conditioning outlet duct #* The under column duct section #* Column wiring #* Shift interlock cable at the ignition switch #* Steering column shrouds #* Left floor duct/silencer pad and the pad screw #* 4 steel reinforcement-to-lower instrument panel cover bottom bolts #* 6-way Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) to the reinforcement #* 2 center lower instrument panel nuts #* The 2 bracket screws and the 2 inside the console bin; then, the console (5 passenger models only) #* 2 screws are located at the right console side cover (5 passenger models only) #* Two left side console side cover screws (5 passenger models only) #* Bezel to the vehicle (5 passenger models only). #* Heater/air conditioning housing assembly control switch and the traction control switch wiring harnesses. #* Center bezel using the trim stick. #* Lower floor bin (6 passenger models only). #* 2 lower instrument panel cover screws (outside end) and connect the deck lid release switch wiring connector. Install the cable-to-brake release handle #* Light bulb socket. Both wiring connectors and a light bulb socket connector #* Shifter bezel #* Center bezel prior to the shifter bezel (LHS or 300M models) #* Both instrument panel end covers #* Shifter knob Allen screw # Connect the negative battery cable to the remote battery post located near the right strut tower. # Operate the engine to normal operating temperatures; then, check the climate control operation and check for leaks. Have the refridgerant refilled at an EPA authorized facility
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