You should have the 5.2 engine with your Limited, but some have been ordered with the 4.0. The Thermostat is located on the front of the engine at the end of the Radiator hose. It is between the Alternator, and the A/C Compressor. You might find it easier to remove the Alternator to get to the 2 bolts that hold in the Thermostat Housing. remove them, clean the housing and the surface it sits on, install a new gasket and thermostat and put back anything else you may have taken apart.

When the oil pressure guage is in the high position, it means you have good oil pressure. As your car warms up, the pressure should drop a little. The guage will usually drop at stop signs and stop lights and then go up as you accelerate. If your guage goes to high and stays there, you could have a problem with your sending unit or you could have too much oil in the car.

Well unfotunately these are one of the circumstances where rebuilding the entire transmission would be more profitable, and if for some reason only reverse were fixed, other gears may have been damaged by the debri from the reverse clutch pack..sorry for the bad news.. DAve

Remove the plastic horn section of the steering wheel by gently put firmly pulling each 'spoke' of the plastic about 1 inch in from the edge of the wheel. Lift each spoke only slightly, then move to the next spoke to release them all, don't try to pull on just one or two. Disconnect the push on connector(the horn) and put the plastic horn piece aside. You should see a nut in the center, about 4 inches down. As I recall, this is 23mm, but not sure. Remove it. Place the steering wheel so that front wheels are straight and spokes of wheel are pointed horizontally (to line it back up when reinstalling). Now alternately bump each side of the steering wheel from the bottom of the wheel with the palms of your hand. The wheel will slowly ride up the splines of the shaft and come off.

The fuel pump relay on a 1991 Subaru Loyale is located on the driver's side of the engine compartment. It is part of a bank of relay switches on the fender wall and right next to the Self Test Connector which is the last location on the far right.

it's underneath and bolts to the transmission via two bolts. it's the size of a small coffee can. it runs parallel to the oil pan.. it's big. you can' miss it. if you car is having trouble starting, look for corroded wires or a malfunctioning starter realy, which is bolted to the inner fender by the battery. email with further ?'s

On the 2.2 and 2.5 common block the starter is always at the rear of the engine, below the exhaust manfold on the drivers side. It is nestled on the back of the block and goes into the transaxle housing. The bolts are not easy to get to.

It may be a bad wire in the fuse box under the hood buy the washer fluid container as it was in mine take it of inspect and clean change your taillight bulbs, b/c when your taillights go out, then your dash ligths will go out to tell your tails are out. I had the same problem with mine. The fuse box under the hood on the driver side had corosion from the battery. I had to remove the fuse box and clean it and has worked fine since.

THE STARTER IS ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE CAR, ATTACHED TO THE ENGINE, ON THE PASSENGER SIDE, AHEAD OF THE TRANSMISSION. YOU CAN GET TO IT BY JACKING UP THE FRONT END (THEN SUPPORTING IT WITH JACK STANDS, NOT CINDER BLOCKS) AND CRAWLING UP BEHIND THE PASSENGER FRONT WHEEL. YOU WILL FIND THE TRANSMISSION AND TO THE RIGHT OF IT (OR LOOKING UP, THE LEFT) YOU WILL FIND IT. LOOK AT THE NEW ONE TO HELP IDENTIFY IT. THE STARTER WILL BE VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE. IF THE RATCHET DOES NOT FIT SNUGLY DO NOT USE IT, YOU WILL STRIP THE BOLT. IT MAY BE A 5/8'S WRENCH AS WAS WITH MY CAR. MAKE SURE YOU SPRAY IT WITH SOME BOLT REMOVER FIRST.

IF THE CAR HAS STARTING PROBLEMS, PERHAPS YOU SHOULD FIRST CONSIDER CHANGING THE SOLENOID. YOU CAN TEST IT FIRST, BUT THE SOLENOID IS ABOUT $12 TO $18 AND IS SIGNIFICANTLY CHEAPER AND EASIER TO CHANGE THAN THE STARTER. I ONLY SAY THIS BECAUSE THE STARTERS ARE USUALLY VERY DEPENDABLE. I HAD A 1988 TOWNCAR WITH 439000 ORIGINAL MILES, THE ONLY THING EVER CHANGED WAS A STARTER SOLENOID TUNE UP PARTS AND AN ALTERNATOR. THIS TEST WILL DETERMINE IF YOUR SOLENOID IS DEFECTIVE INSTEAD OF YOUR EXPENSIVE STARTER:

THE SOLENOID IS LOCATED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FENDER CLOSE TO THE BATTERY. YOU NEED TO PLACE THE METAL OVER THE SOLENOID TERMINALS TO PASS IT WHILE SOMEONE IS ATTEMPTING TO CRANK. THERE WILL BE AN ARC SO USE CAUTION. DO NOT USE WITH AN OLD BATTERY NEARBY.

how DO YOU REMOVE AN IGNITION CYLINDER FROM A MALIBU CHEVROLET 2000

I do believe, after just locating myself, that the starter for a 1989 Nissan Sentra is located on the back, lower-half of the engine itself. It's a small, inconspicuous part. To find it easier on this, and all other vehicles, just follow the positive cable line that comes off of your car's battery. It will eventually lead to the starter. (Be careful, there are other cables delivering electric to other areas of the vehicle, i.e. headlights, turn signals, etc. The starter cable will be one main bundle and will lead to an auto part, not an accessory.) Once you find the starter, and before any repairs are made, try light-to-medium tapping on the starter with a heavy metal tool (wrench, hammer, etc.) The fact that you have to do this indicates you need a new starter but, hey, 9 times out of 10 it'll get the car started. -Anonymous

Not sure if its the same as on my '89. On the '89 it is in the centre console forward of the shifter. The '89 actually has two relays in the bos, so even if the fuel pump relay is shot, you may still here the other one click when you turn on the ignition. Hope that helps.

deopends if you can do it yourself, you can buy one online for 50$ and put it in yourself, but be forewarned when you drop your gas tank you may have to replace the straps holding it up because they will probably be rusted so badly they break, although you can take this as an opportunity to drain out your gas tank, which is recommended by the manufacturer to do every year. but if you have it done professionally it can get quite costly, my friend had to pay 800$ for the pump to be replaced on his 1998 silverado

That's exactly what it is, water. The products of combustion are water and carbon dioxide. While the exhaust stays hot the water comes out as high temperature steam, usually you don't even notice it. When the exhaust pipe and/or outside temperature is cold enough the exhaust will cool and some of the water vapor will condense into steam and possibly even water that drips from a weep hole in the muffler. If you're seeing a little water drip from the muffler, everything is working as designed.

Vacume up all the water, even in the matting underneth, dry it completely dry towels will pick most of what is left after vaccuming, then dry it in the hot sun for a day so real dry. Then get in the car and have someone with a water hose run osts of water over all the suspected areas if no water enters then tray running your A/C on high for 20 minutes and checking to see if water is coming out of the drain pipe under the car.

I had an Accura 2 years ago with this problem on the passenger side floor it turned out to be three leaks! The moon roof & drain, windshield seal and the body seal between the firepanel and fender apron (car was in anccident but repaired)

Let us not forget clogged sunroof/moonroof drains, improperly grommeted wiring for aftermarket electrical accessories (radio equipment, extra alarms, etc.) corrosion in the floor or fender wells and leaky windshield seals.

3 possibilities,1-the air conditioner has a water drain off hose which could be blocked.2-the heater core could be leaking.3-the windscreen seal could be leakin-only wet when raining

the weatherstripping(the rubber stuff around doors, windshield and such)

i had this problem mate, check the door sill rubber for any holes as it will cause it to leak if not then take off your wing mirror an check the rubber sill behind it as this is a common source that is often over looked.i hope this solves your problem,good luck

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I had this problem on my wife's 1998 Chrysler Sebring convertable. It turned out to be the drain holes on the bottom of the chassis, under the door`. The drains fill up with dust and dirt, then when it rains, it turns to mud and clogs the drain holes. I fixed it by using a paper clip, straightened out, and jamming it up into the drains until water ran out. It seems I've had to do this about once a year or so.

. I also had this problem on a Chevy Corsica. Turns out ther was a crack in the firewall so water running off the windshield that normally would be channeled down the body panel found its way into the car and settled on the driver's side floorboard. Once the crack was located, a little rtv sealant fixed it right up.

Could possibly be a leaking heater core as well!! Use a radiator pressure tester to pressure the system, if the pressure drops, look for the leak, or listen, some times leaks can be heard as escaping water/air.

The starter can be seen under the intake piping. Remove the pipe from the throttle body, and then you'll see the starter. You should be able to trace the negative battery cable to it. It has three bolts and can require much finesse to remove once unbolted.

You may have a loose or corroded ground connection. Not just the battery ground but the engine to chassis ground. You may also have a bad battery cable. If you see swelling on any part of the cable, replace it. Make sure the connections are clean and tight. Did you replace the starter solenoid with the starter, or is it a separate item? If the solenoid is separate from the starter, it is probably bad. It is unlikely that the ignition switch is bad, but possible.

i found the computer located on the drivers side up under the dash

According to Champion spark plug applications chart, the gap for 2000 Pontiac Grand Am 4cyl engine is .050.

USALLY it's because of a BAD heater control Valve-butt the hoses can get full of crud & block the flow-ALSO if the Thermostat sticks open the engine won't develope enough Heat.& make sure there is Vaccume going 2 the Heater Control Valve.

It is relay 18 in the Engine Compartment Fuse Block. Page 6-59 in the owners manual.

On the transmission's bell housing, passenger side.

I had the same thing happen to me and my 96' suburban. It turned out to be that the battery was shot and wouldn't hold enough of a charge to turn over the engine. Might be the same thing with you.

if your wiring from scratch the original vettes had a positive battery cable on the main bigger terminal on the starter solenoid. they woul also have fusable links that feed certain circuits power when ignition like lights horn auto locks brake lights. the s terminal is the signal from the ignition swich that would engage starter when key was turned all the way, the start wire from ignition switch is wired through a safety circuit, for manual transthe circuit is open until clutch pedal is depressed with auto trans its wired through the neutral safety switch. the reson for this is so when you try to start your car in gear it will not engage starter until clutch padel is depressed, with auto if car is left in any gear except park or neutral the starter will not engage. I have seen many people hurt running direct feed to starter. they turn the key and the carlurches instantly into whatever is in your way. do it right

Just below the intake manifold. Sorry to say, it is a bit of a pain....but if you jack it up and crawl underneath it is fairly easy to access. Your hands might have to go at some pretty weird angles so the higher you can get it (safely) the better off you are for movement.