"rears" 3 mount nuts in trunk for each strut - loosen
remove sway bar link from strut
pinch bolt on spindle housing loosen (careful likes to break) use heat "or" penetrating oil if necessary
Special tool is nice but a big pry bar and hammer will work to separate strut from spindle housing
"becareful of brake lines and abs sensors" will have to loosen support points
"fronts" same thing but mount nuts under hood
reverse procedure and have alignment done
Answer to revised question
Just by quick struts. It saves time and well worth the money.
Quick strut: NEW Strut, Spring, Strut mount, Spring pads already assembled and ready to put in. jaybird1980Answer
there are three bolts on each side there in the trunk of the car centre of the wheel and there are to at the bottiom of the strut jack up the car and brace it good ( on stands )
On the sable, you have springs/struts, not shocks. Pretty much the only reason you should replace is if a spring is cracked or the strut is leaking (or something in the mounting is broken). A lot of shops will tell you they are even if they aren't. Get a second opinion. But this is a huge issue on sables...
If you do need to replace them, do not attempt them yourself... unless you have a hydraulic lift and a torch. They're buggers to get off, really, and you don't want to be banging that car while on jack stands. It's hard work and if you get stuck in the job at home w/o the right equipment, you're pretty much up a creek.
The cheapest route by far is to order a "quick strut" from monroe. Half the money you get charged is for mechanic's time disassembling and re- the whole mess (again, don't do yourself unless you are very handy and have the right equipment. A stray spring could kill you). Quick struts come as one assembled unit, spring and strut, and just need to be installed. Make sure to replace them in pairs. With parts and labor you should be paying around $500. If higher, you're getting scammed. Cheers.
There are three nuts on the top of the strut that are barely accessible from inside the trunk, one small bolt that holds a brake line bracket, one very long swaybar link bolt, and one large bolt at the bottom that tightens a clamp onto the strut tube.
Remove the small bolt, the long bolt, and the big bolt, and you should be able to slide the clamp down the strut tube far enough to clear the end. Then remove the three nuts from the top and pull out the old strut. Installation is the reverse.
Things to watch out for?
Rust. Both of the big clamp bolts on this car were so rusty, the heads snapped off when I was trying to turn them out, even with PB Blaster and torch heat liberally applied. I spent an hour working the second one back and forth, trying to keep it from breaking. I got it to come out about 3/4 of an inch, and then it snapped. I ended up just blowing the bolts out with the cutting torch and putting in a similarly-sized grade 8 bolt and locking nut. The swaybar link bolts also snapped off, but those are much easier to remove.
Corroded brake lines. One of the brake lines was rotted enough to start leaking as soon as I flexed it a little, that still needs replacing. I have the leak stopped at the proportioning valve on the rear axle, but for the moment there's no RR brake.
Proceed with caution, or save yourself the trouble and push it into a lake.
where did the eagles stay in their 1976 song
it is on page 76 of your owners manual
The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) for all Eagle Visions 1993-1995 (ESi or TSi) can be obtained from the car itself without using a scan tool.
First, let's get familiar with the 3 positions of the ignition switch. The default position is OFF, the first position clockwise is RUN, and the next (and last position) clockwise is START.
To check DTCs, we will not START the car, but we will cycle the ignition switch from the OFF to the RUN position a few times. (Remember, do not crank the engine.)
To begin, insert your key into the ignition. Next, quickly cycle the switch as follows:
RUN - OFF - RUN - OFF - RUN
making sure to leave the ignition in the final RUN position.
Now, you'll need to pay close attention to the Check Engine Light (CEL), because it will start blinking. (Sometimes this light is referred to as the Malfunction Indicator Light, or MIL.)
The DTCs stored in the Vision's computer are 2-digit codes, like 12 or 55. The only way the CEL can tell you a code is to blink "in pairs." For example, your first DTC might be 12. If it is, the DTC will blink once, followed by a short pause, then blink twice (followed by a longer pause). This is how the computer tells you there is a stored trouble code of 12.
If the next code happened to be 32 (indicating trouble with your EGR) then the CEL would blink three times, short pause, then blink twice (then long pause). You get the idea.
The last code blinked is always 55, indicating completion of fault code display. This DTC is not a fault of any kind, but means there are no more codes to report.
I have a 94 Vision TSI. Had the trans rebuilt January 06. It cost about $1300 with taxes & everything. May vary with cost of living. I'm in central Michigan.
For the Eagle Vision TSi trim-code, which always shipped with a 3.5 liter engine (the ESi could have either a 3.3 or 3.5), the water pump is located behind the stamped timing belt cover, so normally you can't see it. To access the pump, you'll need to remove the timing belt covers (there are two pieces) and then remove the timing belt.
It is under the dash on the drivers side of the car in a small fuse box. You access the fuses by opening the driver's door and removing the plastic grill covering. Fuses are located behind the cover.
eagles do not have water pumps on their talons dude
this requires a ECU piggyback. SAFC's by apxi work great! you need this if you run over stock boost. turbo size is not the issue. although you may have a bit of turbo lag. also need is a boost controller either manual or computerized. but yes 4g63 motors run 40mm turbos all day long... have fun!
Why on earth would you or anyone else want to do that??? For one, its illegle, two it is very dangerous as better than 80% of your braking force is generated from the front brakes, and three, you would cause serious damage to the brake system rendering the rear brakes useless anyway. Just don't be stupid. R.W.
Most likely TSI= turbo sport intercooled. Chrysler used the same TSI terminology for a previous vehicle of theirs.
I have a 94 ESI, in order to change the ball joint you must purchase what they call a control arm. The ball joint and control arm comes as one piece. If you look at the ball joint you will see that it is one large piece and that one end is bolted to the chassis. It would be wise for you to change both sides of the car as most of the bushings in the control arm are worn from age. You can buy replaceable bushings but, its alot of trouble going that route. Don't go to salvage yards as they will also be worn from age. I must say that it will improve the ride of your car once replaced,please be sure your jack stands are secure as you will be under that vehicle for sometime. Heres what I did to remove the part: 1. Loosen the lug nuts on both L/R tires, raise your vehicle on both sides high enough for you to get good arm leverage. 2.Remove both tires,you may have to remove the splash shield that's covering the rest of the control arm. 3. If I remember right I used a 3/4in socket with a 1/2 ratchet on one end of the bolt, you may need a breaker bar to help assist loosening the bolt, I used a closed 3/4 wrench on the other end (nut side) to stop it from turning as you loosen the bolt. You may also have to tap the bolt out of the arm once the nut is removed. 4.You now have to remove the nut on the control arm link the rod that's connected to the control arm and you should check the bushings on that part also for wear. On the last eagle I worked on I had to remove both ends of the arm link as I could not slide or wriggle the control arm loose.Remember the position of the link when reinstalling. 5.Remove cotter pin from the castle nut below the ball joint, loosen & remove castle nut, next I used a ball joint removal tool I purchased at a auto tool store under $25.00. Separate ball joint from the hub. You may need to raise or lower the hub when removing or reinstalling the ball joint.Installation is the reverse. You may have to work the part of the control arm that connects to the chassis to fit. Do not tighten the nut on the control arm end that connects to the chassis. Once everything is installed and tires connected and lowered to ground level, you will need to get a portable car ramp (Kragens,Autozone etc.) drive the front of the vehicle up ramp & secure vehicle. Now is the time to tighten the nut on the control arm end to chassis.The reason for this is the full weight of your suspension must be on the control arm for proper adjustment. This is important. Its not as simple but it can be done Hope this helps. If you have patience and good leverage you can do it
All serpentine belts have two pulleys that are not attached to a driven device. One is the idler pulley (re-directs the belt) and the tensioning pulley (spring loaded as to keep the belt at optimum tension regardless of all other pulleys). It is the tensioning pulley that you manipiulate to remove the belt. There will be a 1/2 inch "hole" or indent into which you place the socket tip of a ratchet handle. When you torque the handle in the proper direction you will compress the spring, loosening the pulley! All very simple. The tensioner is loosened by lossoning the nut on the front of the pulley, and turning the forcing screw coounter clockwise.
When A/C is on? if so could be a/c not working properly not enough refrigerant charge or pressure switch not working. If not related to A/C???
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Rest and eat, same as us, I would think.
hello ,there r 2 speed sensors on those trans jack up drivers side front tire take off tire, on the transmission u will see 2 sensors with 3 wires connected 2 each one, unplug electrical connecter they have a nut built on to them use the right socket or wrench to take them off.
3.5 L engine--
The water pump is located behind the stamped timing belt cover, so normally you can't see it. To access the pump, you'll need to remove the timing belt covers (there are two pieces) and then remove the timing belt.
All Eagle Visions 1993-1997 (ESi or TSi) have the fuel pump submerged inside the fuel tank itself. These pumps are not always interchangeable though, so be sure to get the right one for your model year. (The pump assembly itself is the same for all years, but the electrical connector changes. Years 1993-1995 are the same. 1996 and up have different pinouts than earlier years.) FYI, the OEM units were all WALBRO.
To prepare, make sure the fuel tank is as empty as you can get it. There will be spillage--no way around that--but it's better with as little fuel in the tank as possible. Also, have a few old thick cotton towels handy to catch drips and spills when you pull the pump out of the tank. Also, have a shop vac ready. You also might want to have a clean paint brush handy too.
It goes without saying you don't want to smoke while you do this. You also don't want your buddy smoking while he helps out. No heat sources of any kind.
The following steps should get you going:
1. Open the trunk and remove the spare tire and anything else in there.
2. Pull back the felt lining to expose the fuel access plate. This plate is located between the spare tire well and the back seat.
3. The aluminum access plate is secured with four 10mm nuts (metric). Remove them and then gently pry the plate up and off.
4. You'll notice the top of the fuel pump and the surrounding area is quite dirty. Vacuum it clean, and brush away what you can't vacuum. You don't want ANY dirt or debris getting down inside the fuel tank.
5. Gently remove the electrical plug from the pump.
6. The pump is held securely down with a screw-type clamp. Locate the screw and begin loosening the clamp. Try a 9/32 (SAE) socket, or something close to it. You don't have to remove the clamp, merely loosen it enough to allow the pump to freely lift upward.
7. Once the pump is loose, but before you remove it, gently remove the three fuel lines connected at the top. Don't use any tools, just your fingers. The clips securing the lines to the pump are just plastic. And they're decades old: they want to break first chance you give 'em. So be very gentle.
8. Get your towels ready. Now that the pump is loose and all connectors are removed, slowly lift the pump out of the tank. You'll spill fuel, but hopefully the towels will catch most of it. The pump will lift out holding about a quart of fuel in it. (You can try to tip it into the tank as you lift it, but you won't get it all out.)
9. Once the pump is completely removed, if you've managed not to spill the remaining fuel all over the trunk, pour it into a container and use it for your lawnmower or something.
10. Installing the new pump is the reverse of these steps. When you go to tighten down the screw clamp, ensure the pump is pushed down all the way, tightly seated and completely level.
Chrysler's Eagle Vision sports sedan shipped with either a timing belt or chain, depending on the engine installed in the vehicle. The 3.5 liter engine uses a belt, while the smaller 3.3 liter engine contains a timing chain.
A BCM is a Body Control Module, which is a type of Electronic Control Unit used in Ford, GM and Chrysler automobiles. The BCM in Chrysler's Eagle Vision supplies vehicle occupants with visual and audible information and controls various vehicle functions, such as-- * automatic door locks * automatic headlamps * automatic temperature control in the cabin * chimes * courtesy lamps * door lock inhibit * headlamp time delay * ignition key lamp * low washer fluid lamp * instrument panel dimming * power door locks
* Overhead Travel Information System (OTIS) support
* Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS)
Setting the timing on Chrysler's Eagle Vision 3.5L engine is a real dream. The engine has two camshaft sprockets (the 3.5 is an SOHC engine) total, one each on the left and right side. There is a white dimpled timing mark on each sprocket.
Now, on the rear timing belt cover you'll find two white dimpled marks. Simply align the camshaft sprockets with the marks on the covers, i.e. align the camshaft dot somewhere in between the two white dots on the cover. Your camshaft gears are now set.
The next step is to set the front crankshaft sprocket correctly for top dead center (TDC). This couldn't be easier. There is a TDC indicator stamped into the rear timing belt cover, right above the crankshaft sprocket. It's easily seen. The crankshaft sprocket itself has a little pointed nub on it that you align with the TDC indicator. Simply turn the crankshaft sprocket until the nub lines up under the TDC indicator and you're set.
When replacing the timing belt (3.5's have belts and 3.3's have chains), remember to install it counterclockwise starting at the crankshft pulley. Also, as a matter of practicality, whenever you replace the timing belt you should replace the water pump too.
Go to a local AutoZone and have them do a code check. Its free and if there are any codes, be sure to write them down and ask the guy checking them not to erase them. Go home and check your vehicles diagnostic code list and it should tell you if its messed up or not
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