check the air intake

The best documentation I have seen is by Joel Benoit. It is extremely complete.

Please see the link below.

http://www2.izook.com/wp-content/tech-library/USR%20-%20Sidekick%20Wiring%20Diagram%20and%20Instructions%20for%2092-95%2016v.pdf

OH YEAH!!!! i have a 1986 sammie blew up the 1.3 and bought a 1994 sidekick. Check out this swap!!!! we took the motor 5 speed tranny and transfer case from the 94 married a sammie t-case to it and put it in my sammie! it has so much power!!! you have to get the wiring harness out of the sidekick to run it and the fuel pump out of the gas tank to make it work. we made all new brackets and mounts. duel t-cases its bad ass!!! need to know more e-mail me at EightySixou812@yahoo.com. I have lots of pics.

different swords but both work for lords (Rhyme, :))

Here are some Suzuki Manuals on Google DOCS open to everyone.

** See Related Links below for Suzuki Manuals FREE on Google Docs

I have to assume you are looking for the actual horn, and not asking where on the steering wheel you need to press to get it to go beep-beep.

As far as I know the installation location for the Samurai horn has not changed since... probably the introduction of the SJ410.

Look for the actual horn to be located slightly to the passenger side of the top grill support, in front of the radiator but behind and under the grill support. It is a small disk shaped device hardly 3" diameter and about a half inch thick. :-) zn

ON MY 2.2 4CYLINDER ( 1999 ) YOU HAVE TO PULL THE TIMING CHAIN COVER TO SEE THE " TIMING MARKS " . ON THE CRANK SPROCKET IT IS A PUNCH MARK.....ON THE CAM SPROCKET IT IS A SMALL HOLE IN THE SPROCKET . BOTH MUST LINE UP WITH TABS ON THE CHAIN TENSIONER. THE REST OF THE TIMING IS DONE BY CRANK & CAM SENSORS AND THE COMPUTER.

The Samurai were more than just mere warriors. They lived their lives by accepting the simple fact that they could die at any moment.

Samurai lived by the Bushido code.

Suzuki never offered a factory(OEM) gun rack they were all put in a the dealerships, using aftermarket product

No.

If you can fit a V* in it, you can put a v6 in it!! The 4.3L Chevy engine fits too!!

Convertible 2094 lbs Hardtop 2127 lbs According to the 1988 Drivers Manual

80w90 gear oil

transfercase gears you would need 4.9:1 Gears is recommended or about a 115% reduction. they only make 4.57 and 5.38 Ring & Pinion Gears wich is a 23% and 44% reduction. isn't enough so trasnfercase reduction is the way to go.I have 6.5:1 187%and it is about perfect for 31" but anything larger and i would have to go more.

I had the same problem. The problem is caused by a ball that keeps the 2 forks locked in their respective position. I took the transfer case apart and found this problem. You can unlock the forks by using a screwdriver in 1 of the slots of just one of the forks and forcing it to unlock, it will take some force to do this, but is easier than taking apart the transfer case.

Inside driver side dash board, behind gauge cluster dimmer light knob.

Download the FREE Suzuki Samurai Shop Manual from http://www.suzukiinfo.com/

or visit zukikrawlers.com

zn

The voltage regulator is internal to the alternator.

yes you can swap a 2.5 in to 2.7 but u will loose some power from

See the related links below.

4 hex head bolts at the 4 corners of the instrument panel bezel. I think Haynes says you have to pull the steering wheel off to remove the instrument panel, but I have pulled them out many times with the steering wheel in place...you just have to literally pull down on the steering wheel a bit while you are removing the instrument cluster. By the way, there were TWO different instrument panels used, at least in the 1986 version. One, the deluxe one, had a tachometer, the other did not. They are interchangeable...I bought a 'deluxe' one from a junkyard and it went right place of my original...even the tachometer wiring was all in place in the harness and connectors, so for very little money I 'upgraded' to having a tachometer...of course, that meant my odometer was no longer right. But since I kept the car until I had 250,000 miles on it, no one would have been concerned with the "real" odometer reading anyway...it had gone around 2.5 times already.

When I put a fuel pressure regulator between my stock fuel pump and carb, I found about 5psi gave me good results

This should be really simple, if you've already removed all of the bolts which hold the shifter in including the one behind the shifter hole in the trans, the shifter should slide right down into the transmission (provided the transmission was in neutral when you pulled the shifter)