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an electrical problem like a brake light or something being out

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The arrow light in your Volvo indicates that you are driving it as a 3 speed.You can change this by simply pushing button on side of your shifter.If you do, you change it over to a 4 speed which is best for interstate driving.I learned this by reading my Volvo 740 manual.:-) Hope this helps ya.

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http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.htm#RelayLocations

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SRS (supplimental restraint system) is the air bag system. It can mean that they have been deployed, there is a fault in the computer or one of the air bags have been unplugged. Even if plugged back in it will give thid fault code. The only way to turn this off is taking it to the dealer, even if you have OBD scanner it will not turn off this light.

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My TS 100 had 5, but my TS 250 had 6. I would imagine yours has 5. The TS125 has a weak gearbox and often the 2º axle bearings break, the simphtoms start by a noisy 4º and 6º,later on you lose the 6º , and you discover you have a new dead point or neutral afther or up 5º, that´s probably you´re asking for.

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you should have 2
pumps, a low pressure in the tnk and a high pressure in the line.

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Mark driveshaft, yoke, and splines so that drifshaft is replaced at same location to maintain factory balance

Both yokes (rear end and transmission) are bolted in so you must removal four blots around each yoke 17mm bolt and 15mm nut in order to removal drive shaft.

the center drive shaft support is bolted in with four 12mm bolts.

after all hardware has been removed the drive shaft slides out. easier to pull out from the front of the drive shaft loop.

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Not really sure which year you're talking about, but I found the mileage of the 1990 model to be 19 city/25 highway.

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You need to remove the shift console, it's a hassle. I sugggest you replace it with an LED it's a direct plug in replacment (available from Bosch or Narva) it will save you ever doing it again! Take out ashtray as if to access fuses, remove cig. lighter surrond trim piece......unscrew the 1 screw [ on l.h.s. ] and slide out stereo equalizer [N.B. - this is how you access relays, if you ever need to....the fuses + relay board block slides out, after release of plastic retainer clip on l.h.s. of fuse/relay block. Then unscrew (2) Phillips head screws by going through little brush on shifter,..one at each end [ one near "P", 1 near "1" ] .....Now lift out cover.....changing bulb is now obvious. You can also easily change bulb for cig. lighter/ashtray lamp before reversing steps. Seriously consider replacement of ALL of these pesky little lamps [ one at a time, on a as you need to, basis ] with LED's......that way your Volvo's little warning/advisory/courtesy/illumination lights will ALL work all the time, when they're supposed to...... kudos to the way this was answered leds are the way to go but id replace them all at once for sure and then no problems ... (at least with these bulbs!)

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Haynes Repair Manual for Volvo 760/740 has diagrams of the vacuum sub-systems.e,g. the EGR, the ignition etc

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There are a few exceptions, but the majority of all 4 cylinder engines have the same firing order - 1-3-4-2

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THIS HAPPENS MORE OFTEN THEN YOU MIGHT THINK IT WOULD. USUALLY IT MEANS NOTHING, AND A GOOD AUTO SUPPLY SHOP WILL BE ABLE TO TELL YOU IF IT IS A REAL PROBLEM OR JUST A MALFUNCTION IN YOUR CAR'S COMPUTER.ASK IF THEY HAVE A DIOGNOSTIC TOOL FOR YOUR VEHICLE THAT WILL TELL THEM WHY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON NOW AND THEN. IF THEY DON'T, OR WANT TO CHARGE YOU FOR IT, GO TO ANOTHER AUTO SUPPLY SHOP, AND ANOTHER, UNTIL YOU FIND ONE THAT WILL FIND THE CODE THAT CAUSES THE PROBLEM AND EITHER STOPS IT, BY BY-PASSING THAT CODE, OR RECOMENDS YOU SEE YOUR DEALER OR HAS A SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEM RIGHT THERE.

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take out your ashtray, remove the fuse cover behind it. you will see a board with a bunch of large multicolored fuses. the fuel pump relay is in the back left corner it is a big usually white rectangle about 1 1/4 inches x 2 1/2 x 2.

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Before top dead center. Used in auto ignition repair processes of timing the firing of the spark plug to the preferred position of the cyclinders on the compression stroke.

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under the bumper on the left front

volvodoctor

It's on your steering wheel brainiac....

j/k

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Hello, here is a short list OS solutions which i hope may help you....... 1 - Engine Management system fault 2 - Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses 3 - Fuel filter choked 4 - Fuel pump faulty 5 - Fuel tank vent blocked of fuel pipes restricted

I hope that this help you.

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There isn't one. you have to use a key.

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Probably - remove distributor cap and look

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Yes the engine will fit as well as the oringinal engine since they are block wise the same engine. Wireing how ever is a bit different as well as a few other items are located in different places. Try checking out this link for some very helpfull hints. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=52466 Good luck with the upgrade. You are going to have 2 holes in the turbo block that the non-turbo didn't have. The oil feed line hole for the turbo and the oil return pipe hole for the turbo! The blocks are DIFFERENT

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If the rings are completely worn out they can put more preasure in the crankcase than the pcv can handle. Have it checked out.

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it comes out the port no problem. if this is pluged up you have issues. never seen these give a problem. volvodoctor. If it doesn't come out with patient manipulation you can loosen the clip connecter screw that clamps the rubber tube which connects the motor to the metal tube. Gently pull off the rubber tube from the metal pipe and withdraw the motor section first.( the clip connecter small screw and nut shouldn't drop off as the nut is clamped into position. Only undo this clip screw and nut just enough to loosen the rubber tube and this will lessen the odds of anything dropping into the tank) Hold the motor firmly whilst withdrawing it. (don't be worried about dropping it into the tank because the connected wire will prevent this happening but be careful all the same). Once the motor is out of the hole then the rest will come out ok. The whole unit seems to go back through the hole easily. It is very important that you don't test the pump near the exposed tank as sparking could occur with drastic results. Undo leads at nearest plug and test away from the car, but only for a few seconds because these pumps are designed to run in the petrel which keeps them cool. Also make sure the battery is disconected at all times whilst working on the intank pump and the sender unit. when testing (away from the car),if the pump dies after a second or two it doesn't especially mean a duff pump as they will often as not work well in petrel which of course is acting as the cooler.

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Behind the ashtray in the back of the fuse panel. It is round, red and about 3 inches tall. This is the actual unit that all the lights are monitored by. it's approx in the middel of the lamps on the row that contains the oil lamp, high beam, brake failure etc

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Engine Oil; SAE 10W 30 to 15W 50 or API SG/CD

Automatic Transmission; Dexron llD