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Drain the water from the cooling system of your 1992 Saturn. Remove the water hose. Remove the thermostat housing retaining bolts. Take the thermostat out. Reverse the process to install the new thermostat.

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Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine. Under the housing is the thermostat. Make sure when you put it back together the spring on the thermostat goes toward the engine. GoodluckJoe

This is a followup to the previous answer. After you find the housing and remove the hose, be aware that most of the thermostat housings are made of aluminum or some other fragile metal. Spray the mounting bolts thoroughly with WD-40 or Liquid Wrench (do they still make that?) and let it sit for awhile. If you have a six-point socket, use it to loosen the bolts. In any case, go easy on them. They're fairly easy to break, and you don't want the trauma of trying to remove the remnant. THEN when you reinstall, cover the bolts with anti-seize compound so they will come out easily next time.

PS: After the bolts are removed, the housing still may not want to separate from the manifold. Tap on it gently with a wooden hammer handle or some other device that won't crack it. Eventually you can slip a fine screwdriver or spatula under it to take it off. Be sure to scrape the gasket area clean.

Sorry to be so verbose. Truth is, this is NOT the easiest job to do on these engines.

Follow the top hose from the top of the radiator it is about a 2'' by about 1'6'' long to a hose clamp . Right under the hose clamp is the thermostat housing it has got three 10mm bolts holding it on the engine take that off and there's your thermostat , the thermostat itself has got a split O ring on the thermostat instead of a regular gasket it just pulls out and there you have it. IT DOES NOT HAVE A REGULAR GASKET JUST A O -RING. i DON'T KNOW WHERE THIS GUY COMES FROM TO THINK IT HAS A GASKET!

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The exhaust gas oxygen sensor (EGO or O2), or lambda sensor, is the key sensor in the engine fuel control feedback loop. The computer uses the O2 sensor's input to balance the fuel mixture, leaning the mixture when the sensor reads rich and richening the mixture when the sensor reads lean. Lambda sensors produces a voltage signal that recognises the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust. An oxygen sensor is essentially a battery that generates its own voltage. When hot (at least 250 degrees c.), the zirconium dioxide element in the sensor's tip produces a voltage that varies according to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust compared to the ambient oxygen level in the outside air. The greater the difference, the higher the sensor's output voltage. Sensor output ranges from 0.2 Volts (lean) to 0.8 Volts (rich). A perfectly balanced or "stoichiometric" fuel mixture of 14.7 parts of air to 1 part of fuel gives an average reading of around 0.45 Volts. The lambda sensor's output voltage doesn't remain constant, however. It flip-flops back and forth from rich to lean. Every time the voltage reverses itself and goes from high to low or vice versa, it's called a "cross count." A good O2 sensor on a injection system should fluctuate from rich to lean about 1 per second. If the number of cross counts is lower than this, it tells you the O2 sensor is getting sluggish and needs to be replaced. Most lambda sensors will cycle from rich to lean in about 50 to 100 milliseconds, and from lean to rich in 75 to 150 milliseconds. This is referred to as the "transition" time. If the O2 sensor is taking significantly longer to reverse readings, this too is an indication that it is getting sluggish and may need to be replaced. Observing the sensor's waveform on a scope is a good way to see whether or not it is slowing down with age. If the sensor becomes sluggish, it can create hesitation problems during sudden acceleration. Heated Oxygen Sensors To reduce the warm-up time of the Lambda sensor, an internal heating element may be used. Heated O2 sensors can reach an operating temperature of as high as 500 degrees C in as little as eight seconds! Shorter warm-up time means the system can go into closed loop fuel control sooner, which reduces emissions and improves fuel economy. Heating the sensor also means it can be located further downstream from the exhaust manifold. A lambda sensor's normal life span is 30,000 to 50,000 miles. But the sensor may fail prematurely if it becomes clogged with carbon, or is contaminated by lead from leaded petrol or silicone from an antifreeze leak or from silicone sealer. As the sensor ages, it becomes sluggish. Eventually it produces an unchanging signal or no signal at all. When this happens, the Check Engine Light may come on, and the engine may experience drivability problems caused by an overly rich fuel condition. Poor fuel economy, elevated CO and HC emissions, poor idle, and/or hesitation during acceleration are typical complaints. If the average voltage from the lambda sensor is running high (more than 0.50V), it indicates a rich condition, possibly due to a bad MAP, MAF or Air Flow sensor or leaky injector. If the average voltage reading is running low (less than 0.45V), the mixture is running lean possibly due to a vacuum leak or because the sensor itself is bad. If the lambda sensor continually reads high (rich), it will cause the engine computer to lean out the fuel mixture in an attempt to compensate for the rich reading. This can cause lean misfire, hesitation, stumbling, poor idle and high hydrocarbon emissions (from misfiring). If the lambda sensor continually reads low (lean), it will cause the engine computer to richen the fuel mixture. Injector pulse width will increase causing fuel consumption and carbon monoxide emissions to go up. Constant rich fuel mixture can also cause the catalytic converter to overheat and it may be damaged. If the lambda sensor's output is sluggish and does not change (low cross counts & long transition times), the engine computer will not be able to maintain a properly balanced fuel mixture. The engine may run too rich or too lean, depending on the operating conditions. This, in turn, may cause drivability problems such as misfiring, surging, poor idle, and high emissions. If a heated sensor has a faulty heating circuit or element, the sensor can cool off at idle causing the system to go into open loop. This usually results in a fixed, rich fuel mixture that will increase emissions. Sometimes an apparent lambda sensor problem is not really a faulty sensor. An air leak in the intake or exhaust manifold or even a fouled spark plug, for example, will cause the lambda sensor to give a false lean indication. The sensor reacts only to the presence or absence of oxygen in the exhaust. It has no way of knowing where the extra oxygen came from. So keep that in mind when diagnosing oxygen sensor problems. The lambda sensor is also grounded through the exhaust manifold. If rust and corrosion of the manifold gaskets and bolts is creating resistance, it may affect the sensor's output. To rule out a bad ground, use a digital volt meter to check for a voltage drop between the sensor shell and the engine block. More than 0.1v can cause a problem. Lambda Sensor Checks A good lambda sensor should produce a fluctuating signal that changes quickly in response to changes in the oxygen level in the exhaust. The best way to check the sensor is to observe the sensor's output on a waveform scope or oscilloscope. A scope will display not only the sensor's minimum and maximum voltage readings, and average voltage reading, but also its back and forth voltage oscillations from rich to lean. Sensor output can also be read directly with a 10K ohm impedance digital voltmeter, or some code readers. CAUTION! Never use an ohmmeter on a zirconium O2 sensor in an attempt to check the sensor because doing so can damage it. And never jump or ground the sensor's leads. The lambda sensor's voltage reading should have a minimum reading of 200 millivolts (0.20 V) and a maximum reading of 800 millivolts (0.80 V). If the sensor reading is averaging low (under 400 millivolts) or high (over 500 millivolts), the engine may be running rich or lean because of some other problem. If the sensor's output voltage never gets higher than .60v and never drops to less than 0.30 V, it needs to be replaced. The same is true if the sensor's output is sluggish or doesn't change. To check the sensor's response to changing oxygen levels in the exhaust, first create an artificially lean condition by pulling a large vacuum line. When extra air is introduced into the engine, the sensor's voltage output should drop to 0.2 V. To check the sensor's rich response artificially richen the mixture by, if possible, clamping the return fuel line momentarily. This will force more fuel through the injectors and should cause the O2 sensor's voltage to increase to 0.8 V. If the sensor's output fails to respond to the changes you've created in the oxygen level in the exhaust, it's time for a new sensor. Zirconium sensors can also be bench tested by heating the tip with a propane torch while monitoring the sensor's voltage output with a digital voltmeter. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the signal wire (normally black) coming out of the O2 sensor and the negative voltmeter lead to the sensor's outer shell. Then heat the tip of the sensor with the propane torch. The tip should be hot enough to turn cherry red, and the flame must enter the opening into the sensor tip. If you get a voltmeter reading above 600 millivolts (0.6 Volts), and the reading quickly changes as you move the flame back and forth over the tip, the sensor is okay. A low reading or one that is slow to change means the sensor needs to be replaced. Removing Lambda Sensors Removing the sensor when the engine is cold will lessen the odds of stripping the threads in the exhaust manifold. Penetrating oil may be needed to loosen rusted threads. Once the sensor has been removed, the threads in the manifold should be cleaned before the new sensor is installed. Apply graphite grease to the sensor threads unless the threads are precoated. Replacing Lambda Sensors Everybody knows that spark plugs have to be replaced periodically to maintain peak engine performance, but many people don't realise the same goes for oxygen sensors. As long the lambda sensor is working properly, there's no reason to replace it. But after 30,000 to 50,000 miles of being constantly bathed in hot exhaust gas, a build up of deposits on the sensor tip can make it sluggish. If there's enough clinker on the sensor tip, the sensor may produce little or no voltage at all. This produces a false "lean" signal that makes the computer think the engine needs more fuel, which it doesn't but gets anyway. This creates a rich fuel condition that kills fuel economy and sends carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon emissions soaring. The engine may also experience additional drivability problems such as surging or hesitation. The same kind of thing can happen if the lambda sensor is contaminated by deposits from sources other than normal combustion. It only takes a couple of tankfull's of leaded petrol to ruin an lambda sensor (and catalytic converter). A lead contaminated oxygen sensor will typically have light rust coloured deposits on the tip. Another source of sensor contamination can come from silicone poisoning. If somebody used the wrong kind of silicon sealer to seal up a leaky rocker box cover or manifold gasket, silicone can find its way into the engine and foul the sensor. Silicates, which are used as corrosion inhibitors in antifreeze, can also cause the same kind of poisoning. Sources here might include a leaky head gasket or racks in the combustion chamber. Silicone deposits on the sensor tip will have a shiny white to grainy light gray appearance. If the engine has an oil consumption problem due to worn valve stem seals, piston rings and/or cylinders, a build up of heavy black to dark brown oily deposits on the sensor tip can make it sluggish. If the deposits have a black powdery consistency, the fuel mixture is running rich. This may be due to the sensor already having failed, or it might be due to something else such as a leaky injector or a computer problem, or constant short journeys where the cold start system doesn't have time to come off (open loop) known as housewives car. When ever you suspect a lambda sensor problem, the first thing you should do is scan for any codes that would implicate the sensor circuit. A code by itself doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is bad, however. It might be a wiring problem or something else. So always follow through with the diagnostic check to diagnose what's wrong before you replace anything. If you don't find any codes, that doesn't necessarily mean the lambda sensor is okay. In many instances, a sluggish sensor may not be bad enough to record a fault code but will still be causing an emissions or drivability problem.

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Look at

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/service/850/WiperWasherSystem.pdf

It says it all for a 850!

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How do you know that it is your car?

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Normal just alittle problem with your engine or your fuel tank go to the Jiffy lube and ask them about it if you don't check the engine or fuel tank.

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under the coin holder, under the ash tray ciao - Max

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The latch is just above the rear license plate. Reach your hand up in there and pull the handle towards you. Of course, all doors have to be unlocked for it to operate. If, by chance, you meant the front hood of the car, there's a red pull-lever near the driver's left foot that, when pulled, releases the hood latch. Then, you need to go to the front of the car and find a grey, hooked piece of plastic sticking just barely out through the grill (above the Volvo logo). Get your finger underneath that and pull towards you. It'll come out about a centimeter and, while you have it pulled out, lift up the hood.

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if your cougar has a keypad under the door lock mechanism the code is in the trunk open your trunk and look on the trunk hinge to your left there should be a sticker with a 5 digit code that is your keyless entry code if it isn't there or the code doesn't work the trunk lid has been replaced

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It is located at the engine end of the upper rad hose. When replacing it make sure the spring goes toward the enigne.

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the thermostat is under the air assembly,monted onto the cylinder head.there are three screws holding the thermostat,remove screws,dissconnet the housing and pull the thermostat out.Assembly is the reverse steps

In addition to the above, you need to pull out the aluminum tube that slides into the back of the housing and change the large o-ring. This will also aid in pulling out the thermostat housing. Remove the hose clamp, hose and 13mm bolt on the bracket supporting the tube going into the thermostat housing. Remove the 3 10mm nuts holding the housing and remove the thermostat.

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SRS (supplimental restraint system) is the air bag system. It can mean that they have been deployed, there is a fault in the computer or one of the air bags have been unplugged. Even if plugged back in it will give thid fault code. The only way to turn this off is taking it to the dealer, even if you have OBD scanner it will not turn off this light.

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I have a 1995 Volvo 850 and they currently have a size of 195/60 - R15 88V. They are Pirelli tyres on Volvo standard 5 spigot T5 alloys

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It is at the engine end of the upper rad hose. Remove the housing and there it is. When replacing it make sure the spring goes toward the engine/

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This question is extremely Vague but will give you a few pointers. 1. If the Alarm is activated, the car engine will not turn over 2. If the Key is not put into the Ignition, it would be difficult to start the vehicle. With the Understanding that the first part of this answer is meant to ease the stress, think about this: If the Engine does not turn over, it can be the Alarm, Weak Battery, Ignition Switch, Burned Fuse, corroded wire, dirty battery, ect... 3. If the Car does turn over but will not start check the following: Fuel Pressure, Sign of Spark to the Plugs, Spark from the Coil, Hope this helps you

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Blow by yes it is , however the cause which is what you require is due to a blockage in the crankcase ventilation system. The Volvo 850 has a reservoir located on the block below the inlet manifold, several pipes come of it and lead to the air intake hose at the throttle housing, usually this system gets blocked and when this happens the crankase is unable to vent through the correct system and therefore appears as pressure/smoke coming from the dipstick tube or the oil filler cap, oil often leaks fron here too when its blocked.

You need top check all pipes for cleanliness and ability to vent ptressure, failing that a kit is available on eBay to completely service the the PCV system. hope this answers your question and opoints you inthe right direction

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Typically on the top of the engine block or just where the top radiator hose connects to the engine block. on the Volvo 840 the thermostat comes with a rubber seal, the housing requires NO CLEANING other then BEFORE dismantling the housing. simply drop the new thermostat in place with the little pressure bleed valve to the fron of the engine housing, replace the housing. again NO SEALant IS REQUIRED AS THE SEAL DOES THE TOTAL JOB.

takes about 10 minutes if you give the job to a chimp, 5 if you do it yourself

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i have no idea man.. sorry ask a mechanic?

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disconnect the battery for 1min or so the light will go off

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Under the passenger side under carriage near the rear tire.

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The tstat is between the engine and the radiator cap. Unbolt the tstat housing from the engine block, scrape off the old gasket and take out the old tstat. Be careful not to let anything fall into the engine. I put a paper towel in the hole while I'm scraping off the old crap. Put in the new tstat and make sure it is going the same direction as the old, and make sure it is flush with the engine block. Use some high pressure grease and bolt it all back together. I would change the cap too. You'll also need gasket sealant and of course (if you follow the directions above) a new gasket, otherwise, you'll spring a leak!

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Underneath dash, passenger side. Behind the glove box. You have to remove the globe box and it has 5 or 6 torx screws. Also, you have to disconnect the power plug (light gray) and the ventilation hose (1/2') from the blower.