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No! Under no condition should a wood floor be steamed mopped!

Wood is extremely prone to bubbling, swelling, and warping with exposure to water over time. There are products that state they are safe to use on "sealed" wood. The flaw in that statement is the idea that your entire floor is sealed.

If your floor is a prefinished floor as most are today, each board came separate. As you staple/nail them into place there is a small space left. The tops of the board are polyurethaned but the sides are not. As the steam is pressed into those spaces your floor will be permanently damaged in time.

A site finished floor where you have sanded bare wood and applied the polyurethane in your home has the same issue as above. Once the seasons change the boards begin to shrink in winter causing the polyurethaned to break in between each board. These spaces are not large and you many not be able to easily seem them while walking across. But these steam mops will allow water to make its way between the boards.

Regardless what a product states, do not use these on your floor. Bruce, Armstrong, Hartco, Tarkett, and Thomasville all state they void warranties on a floor that has water damaged caused by seam mops.

Please see attached link.

NO!

Hardwood can swell with the steam from the mop. Even if the top of the boards are polyurethaned the floor is still able to get wet.

As your floor expands and contracts with the humidity in the air, polyurethane will have tiny cracks in between each board. This allows water to make it way onto the floor.

No, a steam mop should never be used on a wood or laminate floor. The steam leaves to much water on the floor, even "sealed" wood flooring. Also, the humidity causes the wood to expand and then retract every time you use it.

Wood and laminate manufactures void your warranty if you do use and damage your floor with a steam mop. Surely a manufacture knows their product best!

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A large bottle of pure sugar cane syrup broke on the kitchen floor. I am not sure exactly the type of flooring, but it is a ruddy red color like brick but smoother tiling. I don't think it's terribly delicate.

My first mistake was mopping with soap. That seems to have spread the disastrous mess to new levels. I have also hand scrubbed with a degreaser and mopped again with water. It is still incredibly sticky, like to the point where if you walk on it with flip flops you will not make it very far.

Sticky or oily substances are difficult to clean up. You've already done, it but wipe up the worst of the mess with a dry paper towel. Then, I suggest a two-bucket method. Wipe the floor with a rag moistened with water from the first bucket, wipe the floor, rinse it out in the second bucket. Do a portion of the floor, empty both buckets, start again. There is just no easy way to get the last of it up and this may require repeated efforts. If you have a floor cleaner, use tepid water rather than hot.

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Fullform of IPS Flooring is Indian pattern stone flooring.

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16 12" x 12" tiles

*This presumes the given room size is exact and there are no cuts required. If there are cuts required for a toilet flange for example, best to allow for breakage. A general rule of thumb is to allow 10 - 15% waste for straightforward installs.

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No. It will definitely leave a "stain", if you will, but it will come off with use. A specially formulated compound must be used that bonds with the concrete. See your local Home Depot or Lowes. It's not cheap.

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Yes. But problems will arise with door clearances, stair riser heights, and other areas. With problem areas it is best to remove and replace.

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I usually use the thickest wax ring I can find with the plastic funnel thing embedded in it. If it's a little too thick, the extra wax will just squeeze out a bit underneath the toilet. Sometimes its necessary to double up on the ring (use two - one with the funnel one without) to make a good seal on a flange after installing a thick (tile) floor in a bathroom which I kind of assume is your issue.

If the closet collar is even with the top of the finished floor, no amount of wax will stop the water from coming out. It may not happen right away, but it sure will. One way to fix this problem is to attempt to raise the closet collar so that it will rest on top of the finished floor. Another way is to buy a closet collar extension. Either way the toilet will be held to the floor and the wax ring should then seal tight.

It depends... The advice above is good however if you have one of the newer "Super Toilets" such as the Toto Drake or Am Std Champion the outlet hole on these are enlarged and you should not use the wax rings that come with the plastic horn. The plastic horn will actually get pinched by the larger outlet and be squeezed into an oval shape that will actually cause clogs.

Another option is not to use wax seal at all. I have encountered many problems using wax seal ,it does not last long and it does not look nice. My option would be to use white, Prattley Putty standard setting. It seals water tight, goes very hard in 2 hours, easy to apply and it gives off a white, smooth very appealing finish.(Its Plumbers Cement)

*If you are attaching to a plastic Floor Flange, you would use a Kant Leak(which has the plastic hub installed with the wax seal) and use a hacksaw to cut a regular wax seal in half,still leaving it like a round donut. You put the Kant Leak on the flange, then mold the wax seal half on top of the Kant Leak. The 1/2 wax seal should be formed so when you put the toilet down it does not push into the center and down the drain. If you are putting the toilet onto a Cast Iron or Lead flange with a brass ring, DO NOT use the Kant Leak. Use one and 1/2 wax seals and do the same as I stated previously.

If the toilet flange is flush with the floor you are probably fine and would not need to use an extension kit to raise the flange. As long as your flange is in good condition and firmly secured to the floor below it you should be ok.

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Aubusson

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No, laminate is floating type of floor installed over an insulation pad.

Hardwood floor has to be nailed, stapled or glued to the subfloor.

If you do manage to install hardwood on top of laminate sooner or later your Laminate floor will expand due to high temperature or humidity and it will create gaps between hardwood planks.

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Remove the feces, wash the area with a good disinfectant in order to remove the cause. Use bleach afterwards. If the smell remains, perhaps there is a enzymatic spray that could be used.

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Check with the manufacture of the flooring, but the majority of manufacturers do not recommend steam on vinyl plank floors.

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First, make sure that the cause of the moisture has been corrected. Assuming the floor buckled due to moisture, first make sure that everything is thoroughly dry. The buckled boards will have to be removed, nails pulled and the boards replaced, as long as they haven't warped and are still straight. If the boards are not reuseable then new boards will have to be used. If the floor is still swelled, the last board to be installed may have to be cut down ("ripped") on a table saw in order to fit back in. If the flooring is tongue-and-groove, cut the bottom of the board off of the "groove" side leaving the top (or face) side uncut. Re-install the final board, face-nail it and fill the nail holes.

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A scientific fact states states that marble adheres to saliva. The tongue is recommended in this situation.

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Yes, concrete floors are not recommended for aerobic activity. You should have a floor with cushioning, such as laminate floor or a sports floor which is specific for high impact activities to minimize injuries.

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If they are 12 inches x 12 inches then you would need 399 tiles.

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You can but it isn't going to do much, laminate is designed to have a low luster/Shine and the mop & glow will likely look more streaky than shiny.. you are trying to shine a floor that isn't supposed to shine...

It will leave a heavy residue and make the floor look extremely dirty.

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A foot is 12 inches, which means 18 inches is equal to 18/12 = 1.5 feet. However, 2(1.5) = 3 (which is the base of all integer answers to this), and 16/3 is irreducible, so we may not tile the whole floor with 18 by 18 inch tiles (only a 15' by 15' area). Note that it would be easier if the tiles were not squares, since flipping the tiles would make it more functional.

According to my calculation:

1feet = 12 inches

so 16' x 16' = 192" x 192" inch2 --> (16'x16')/(18"x18") = 113.78. Which means you need approximately 114 tiles to fill the room. This is only possible if you are able to cut the tiles, which is not a parameter in the problem.

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It is called bridging.

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Assuming that the tape actually lifted the finish off the floor you will need to refinish or replace that board. The board will need to be sanded and a new coat of finish applied. If the tape has simply left a residue you should be able to clean the glue off with a gentle application of baby oil to soften the glue then a soap and a damp cloth to clean the oil.

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Labor Prices

Fees & charges change from town to town, region to region, the best ways I can suggest to find a good range is :

Run a short ad in Craigslist, that will likely get you someone hungry & maybe unlicensed so you will know the cheapest price.

Then call the local Home Depot or Lowes & ask what they charge if you buy your tile from them???

That will be the highest price in the market

Now you would have a good range & then its time to look for quality & references... a steal on tile or a great price on labor, can be VERY COSTLY if you give the job to a butcher..

My bet will be you will find someone on the low end at about $2 per sq ft & that the depot will be $6-8 bucks a foot after they do all the add ins...

Get it in writing...Never pay for it all upfront

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Buckled hardwood is associated with excessive humidity.

I would suggest to get a dehumidifier and remove some moisture from the hardwood. It might take at least a week to so to see results.

If it's very isolated area and rest of the flooring is fine; that would be a water damage. Boards affected might need replacement.