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The standard carpet runner is generally 26" to 27" wide. Although often in wide hallways or in commercial settings they can be wider.
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You should immediately try to mop up, or remove as much, if not all, of the water as you can. Leaving the water on the wood floor will cause it to warp out of shape.
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Pergo Presto Dark Cherry was an exclusive product of The Home Depot. According to their website it is still available.
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I've always assumed it's a euphemism, that he peed his pants. Not an unreasonable reaction when staring at the business end of a large caliber handgun held by someone with malice in mind.
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wood: wood can crack unlike concrete and wood is affected by water which can cause it to rot whereas concrete is not
Metals: Metals can rust whereas concrete does not and metals can easily scratch
Bricks: Bricks are more expensive than concrete and bricks take generally more 'man power' to place down whereas concrete does not.
Hope this has been a good help
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YES - The Tile Installer.
But really, a tip means a lot more to us than the $$. It confirms that we did a good job and that we showed respect to your home and family. I may make $1000 installing a floor, but it is that $20 tip that makes my day.
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Unless the floor is buckling from an expansion problem then the laminate just follows the floor below it. The time to fix it is before the laminate is installed.
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Yes! But you need to make sure you have proper support underneath i.e floor joists. Make sure they are sturdy and supportive, if they start moving, your tile will be ruined. Try to use 3/4" pressboard on the joists screwed every 8"...stagger the boards so there is no continuous running joints. On top of that use 1/2" cement board like durock. You must use thin set between the two boards and screw them together. Also, use thin set , as you would spackle, in the joints of durock with mesh material as reinforcement. Make sure to use the green screws specifically made for cement board. Wait 24 hrs and start tiling...goodluck
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Anything that adds time to an installation is a chargable item. The fitter is a highly skilled trades person, taking up an existing flooring takes up their time and they will no doubt incurr disposal costs aswell. As the customer you have to pay for the time, and costs are always reflected in any estimate. My advice is: take it up yourself!
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the question is more about the finish on the wood or the cork rather than the material it'self.
I would contact the vendor of the cork just to be sure, but the answer should be yes whatever you use on wood is ok for cork.
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Might try to rough up the surface with a power sander & emory cloth but a primer wont do much good, wouldn't waste my time or $$
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No unless it is a cement substrate.
Wood sub floors are not strong enough. You need to have a mud bed poured or put some type of cement board down.
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Grout is cement, sand & a liquid, the liquid starts the process of the cement & sant setting from a powder to a solid.
Traditionally it was WATER that was used as the liquid
newer grouts substitute Epoxy as the liquid, making the grout set harder stick together better and resist stains
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Often & commonly done. all a matter of taste & if you can make it look good to you, no reason to hold back. The biggest functioal decision is where to transition from one floor to the next. The center of where the door stops is usually a good choice. That way when the door is closed you see only room flooring from inside the room & only hall flooring from the hall.
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Isometric and Isotonic Contraction
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Two answers here:
Grout should be sanded to add strength, just like you add rocks & gravel to cement to make concrete stronger.
Grout wears off a little every day & IF the flooring has
a very shiny surface, polished anything
is very soft, like sandstone, Travertine, Coral or marble
The sand in the grout is much harder than the stone & the released bits of sand from the grout will actually scar & scratch & dull the shiny polished surface as the traffic grinds it into the floor.
The installation of the wet, sanded grout can also start the delustering process.
Very narrow joint up to about 1/4" are usually considered to be safe to do without sand, but over that, an aggregate is needed & sand is the ideal.
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It takes about 1400 degrees to fuse glaze to a tile, so I doubt anyone is really glazing your floor tile.
More likely its an epoxy or some other sticky 2 part paint system, but it isn't glaze!
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Row cut it
Seal the seam
Hot melt seam
Check the vendors web site for detailed instructions.
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The simple term for it is Schleutter strip.
There are several variations, but genericaly that is what its called.