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The short answer is moisture. Specifically, the moisture that comes from perspiration can cause your pillow to become discolored. A compound found in sweat called urea is often responsible for those unsightly stains.

Other moist culprits of pillow stains can include saliva, lying down with wet hair, and chemicals in certain types of makeup.

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You really can't without negatively impacting the value of it. Most collectors don't want coins or paper money altered in any way, including cleaning. Cleaning will never add value to your collection.

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To clean fiberglass showers and tubs, heat white vinegar until hot and pour into a spray bottle. Spray on shower and bathtub. Let set around 10-15 minutes and clean using a scrubbing sponge, adding more hot vinegar during the process as needed. Rinse thoroughly.

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Some are: hydrogen peroxide, ammonia is another and various petroleum products to remove grease stains. My Spray and Wash shows the following ingredients: surfactant, solvents, stabilizers, fragrance and water. Older style stain removers included phosphates.

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To remove a linseed oil based paint from a porouse ceramic would require figuring out a way to soften the finish to make it soluble in something (like acetone). As I recall, linseed oil essentially cross-links during the curing process to create a hard, brittle, but of course, very durable finish. To get the material off of a porous ceramic material would require dissolution (rather than the typical way of softening then scraping) -- that is, the only way to remove the material from the pores is by dissolving the finish.

I would recommend one of the following: a simple paint remover, formulated for oil-based paints; gently heating the system when immersed in the paint remover using a double-boiler (of course, this would require some common sense -- an electric stove (absolutely no gas flames) and a well-ventilated area); possibly simply trying acetone (nail polish remover) and soaking the vase in the acetone and testing with a pin (or something like that) periodically to see if the finish is softening.

Some old paint books have information on linseed oil finishes that might give some insight. As you know, most of the time these finishes are on wood which can be particularly problematic for finish removal -- the wood is porous, frequently soft, and easy to damage. There are sucessful techniques for removal but I do not know details. If I get a chance, I will see if I can find some of my old paint books, but they may not be old enough. (What you are looking for would be handbooks from the 40s and 50s.

Another (less dangerous for the operator) approach may be to soak or even boil the item in water. This may cause the paint to lift away, whereas using solvents may drive stains into the porous pot.

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I don't know about fiberglass but I got wood stain on my nearly-white carpet and it came right up using hydrogen peroxide. It didn't bleach out the carpet either! Hope that helps.

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Start by removing as much of the pollen as you can without water- shake it out outside or scrape any chunks of pollen. Then pretreat the stain with OxyClean or Shout. Then wash the clothes in hot water.

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Apparently many state governments have outlawed the use of naphtha for household use because it is a volatile organic compound (VOC) and can supposedly affect air quality. Of course, the idea that people cleaning spots has any affect on air quality is ridiculous, but this is what happens when government gets too much power.

The good news is that there are alternatives. You can still buy naphtha for use as a paint thinner. I assume it will work the same as Energine.

You can also buy Folex, which gets very good reviews as a spot remover.

Both are available at Amazon or at hardware stores like Lowes.

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The Company that makes "Easy Wash" Laundry Stain Remover is:

Reckitt & Collman Inc., Wayne, New Jersey 07474-0945.

They used to carry it in supermarkets, however I haven't been able to find it anywhere. I used to use it all the time - then the stores stopped carrying it, so I looked up the phone number and they mailed it to me.

Now I am going to do the same again because I can't find it anymore. I was told that the NFL, sports teams and hospitals use it. It was the best stain remover I ever had. It also comes in different forms, for wools and silks, etc (a dry stain remover. I think I may approach other drugstores and groceries to carry it again.

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I have a fiberglass pool and I am constantly battling with iron stains. It is not impossible to remove the stains. I get brown stains in my pool and I treat them with jacks magic stain solution #1. Check out their website. They show different pictures of different types of stains. The stuff does remove the stains quickly, but it is expensive. Hope this helps.

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For the denim jeans - mate that's what they invented the washing machine for.

Carpet - 'Call Rug Doctor. Steaming mad at dirt (hot look at the camera)'.

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I also would like to know if it worked. I have an In ground pool with calcium build up and I'm having problems removing it. If you get an answer please let me know, I have tried the acid it did not work, maybe because I was alittle to afraid, a pool company told me to be very careful and not leave it on to long.

In my experience, yes. Muratic acid dissolves hard water build up. However, it will also damage every substance it contacts beyond any repair. Including stainless steel, brass, tile, and glass. Pvc becomes brittle. A vinegar solution may be a better option to try instead of Muratic acid.

I live in Alabama the pool store told me to add 2 gallons of muratic acid to remove water mold then I broadcasted calsaum hardner and it cleared up the water no more water mold and I removed the ladder 2 months later and their is stainless steel bolts in the ladder and they were fine!

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The dosage is 1 lb. per 10,000 gallons. Run filter 24 hours. Backwash or clean filter after 3 days.

Be sure to test the stain with a vitamin c tablet before adding ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid won't work for all stain and is quite expensive. Testing to see what type of reaction you will get first is highly recommended.

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chuchi ko dabo chuso

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One pound of ascorbic acid per 10,000 gallons.

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There are a number of options in regards to cleaning pet stains. One of the most common remedies offered as a suggestion is to clean the stained area with either vinegar or ammonia. Both are inexpensive household items, and both contain a high enough level of acidity to break down stains. However, vinegar and ammonia are quite possibly the worst things you can use for pet stains. Both vinegar and ammonia contain some of the same chemical compounds found in urine. The scent of these compounds can cause confusion with your dog and increase the likelihood that your pet continues to go to the bathroom in that spot. While vinegar or ammonia make break down the visual stain, they are not breaking down the odor. Instead, they are adding to to. Because of this the probability that your dog will continue to have accidents in that spot.

Another popular suggestion are enzymatic cleaners. These types of cleaners are often hailed as a green solution as they operate on the principal that bacteria released on the stain will naturally combat it by breaking it down. As wonderful as this sounds, the likelihood of enzymes properly working against the pet stain are low. Enzymes are often compared to a lock and key scenario. You can have all the keys in the world, but only the right one will work on a lock. Likewise, only the right enzyme will break down a certain stains. Enzymes are extremely sensitive. The conditions for them to work must be a 100% match. Variables that affect whether an enzyme will be successful include temperature, moisture, and interference from other chemicals previously used. The stain itself can also affect the enzyme. Dog's diets can add variables in the stain that can prevent the enzyme from working. While the enzyme might be able to battle some components of the stain, it often doesn't have the energy to get into the padding. While initially an enzymatic cleaner may seem to be doing good, the odor and stain generally return in a few days. Once again inviting your puppy to sniff out the spot as a bathroom.

To properly put an end to accidents, the area needs to be properly cleaned. The odor needs to be removed as well as the visual stain, as it is the odor that will draw your dog back to that spot. The best way to clean these types of stains is with a surfactant based cleaner like Genesis 950. Genesis 950 is a green cleaner with no harsh chemicals, no enzymes and no ammonia or vinegar. It works with water to break the bonds of stains and lift them from the surface. The best way to clean pet accidents is using a steam cleaner or carpet cleaning machine. This will allow the solution to get below the surface of the carpet to the pad. When a pet has an accident on the carpet, it is important to remember that the stain seeps below the surface and traps the odor in. Cleaning the surface might remove the visual stain, but it does not address the odor trapped below which can be smelt by your dog. It is that smell that will keep them going in that spot. Using Genesis 950 will deodorize the scent and in addition will also kill any germs and bacteria within the carpet and padding. This will remove odor and prevent the growth of bacteria or mildew.

Of course part of puppy training requires regular visits outside. While outside, use that time to help your pet find an area where they can relieve themself. When they have found an area, always take them to that spot and let them take time to smell the area. This will help them establish that area as their bathroom. In doing so, your dog will not be looking for such an area in the home.

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The Deuter Travel Lite 200 is one of the best sleeping bags that provide the most warmth as it is in the shape of a mummy. It keeps the warmth in where as other sleeping bags let the warmth seep out.

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The home made product I have found to be effective on pet urine is to wet the urine spot with water, and then vacuum it out with a wet/dry vac using just the hose (no attachment). Afterwards, spray the area with Odorxit concentrate. If the urine has already seeped through to the padding beneath, use Odorxit magic.

You can also put dry bicarb on the stain, leave it for a while, and then vacuum it off. This should also work.

The key, however, is to keep the urine from getting to the padding under the carpet first - so the quicker you get to the stain, the better and easier it will be to remove it!

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The safest carpet stain remover is plain white vinegar. Unlike most commercial cleaners, it does not contain any chemicals or additives. Just mix equal parts vinegar and water and apply it to the stain. It should come right out. Baking soda can help remove any bad smells.

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after applying the removers, If it turns a weird color, then the remover will not work. weenie

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just use bleach

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by using "BANG"

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nothing