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Yes, you can put a toilet on it. The hardest part would be putting a toilet flange onto the cast. There are two options: you can either get a cast iron flange to fit over it and pour a lead joint or you have to chip around the pipe enough to get a no hub band on it. You also have to consider the distance from the wall. If it's 15" to the back wall you only need a minimum of 12" to finished wall. That means if you fur the wall out you could only fur it out 2.5" leaving you with 1/2" drywall. The side of your toilet needs a minimum of 15".Here is more input from others:* Go to your plumbing or hardware store. There you'll find a brass flange you can fasten to the floor with zamma pins. You will not need to chisel the floor with this method, but, you will need ensure the 4" is flush to the floor. A hammer drill is also needed to drill six 1/4" holes in the cement for the zamma pins.* In order to ensure the proper safe and sanitary conditions of your plumbing system it is recommended that you hire a licensed plumber to do this type of work. If the floor of your basement is concrete it will have to be jackhammered to expose the cast iron pipe under the floor. The pipe will have to be cut using proper tools. Cast iron pipes are hard and brittle at the same time and if they are old and corroded will often crack. A proper fitting will have to be installed and fastened with right couplings to be water tight. Plastic ABS 4" pipe is then installed vertically though the floor just above the floor level and proper distance from the wall in back of the toilet, capped and wrapped to accommodate the floor flange after the concrete is poured back. When the concrete dries the cap and wrapping are removed, the ABS pipe is cut flush with the floor and toilet floor flange is installed.* You may be able to add a toilet to the line but it must be properly vented!*Another option, and probably the easiest for a homeowner, is to buy what is called a "twist and set flange". It is basically a PVC flange with a longer base that has 2 rubber seals that actually thread into the cast iron pipe. You would insert the base of the flange into the pipe and turn it until it becomes firm, then I would suggest anchoring it to the floor with 1/4" drive pins, or some other form of anchor.

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Most coin size or smaller gravel runs about $20-25 a yard (ton). That will usually cover about 100 sq. feet at 3 inches deep.

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No. It will definitely leave a "stain", if you will, but it will come off with use. A specially formulated compound must be used that bonds with the concrete. See your local Home Depot or Lowes. It's not cheap.

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They have different modulus of elasticity. This would cause ces in thermal expansion and therefore fracturing of both materials.

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No, laminate is floating type of floor installed over an insulation pad.

Hardwood floor has to be nailed, stapled or glued to the subfloor.

If you do manage to install hardwood on top of laminate sooner or later your Laminate floor will expand due to high temperature or humidity and it will create gaps between hardwood planks.

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A structural members especially of concrete; cast into form before being transported to the site of installation.

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The mixes of grades M5 M10, M15, M20 and M25 correspond approximately to the mix proportions (1:4:8), (1:3:6), (1:2:4), (1:1.5:3) and (1:1:2) respectively.

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POUR THE CONCRETE OVER THE BRICK

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In this M refer to Maximum compressive strength and 20 refer that concrete that with stand upto 20KN compressive strength.

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OK, that is stamped concrete. things you don't want to use are a pressure washer. It will blow the release color off the concrete and destroy the area you are trying to save. first you will want to remove any sealer on the the affected area, you can do this with xylene (you can get it right at home depot) this won't hurt the concrete or the color, and will re liquify the sealer (if it is a topical sealer) once you have use the xylene clean the area with denatured alchohol to remove any residule sealer, once you have done that scrub with a non caustic cleaner such as simple green. if the stain still remains your best option is to contact somone experienced in concrete and have them remove the small stained area and replace it. I did stamped concrete for years so i know what i am doing with this. if i saw this i would do the things i said and if it didn't ome clean i would use a grinder to remove the small section that is orange and then repour it using a high psi mix hand tinted (id mix and pour samples at home first to verify the correct color to concrete ratio) and then just use a small edge stamp to redo the texture.

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Yes. Especially in warm dry weather which is the optimal environment to pour a slab in the first place. Never pour a slab if its going to rain and hose it down daily after its poured for at least a week. It prevents cracking which is caused by the warm, dry conditions which it requires to cure. Kind of a catch 22.


Being an old contractor, his comments are spot on, however let me add a few things. One of my first jobs in the construction business was to stand guard over newly poured concrete and keep it wet. I learned early on, that "slabs," such as driveways or walks took approx. 30 days to cure, and the longer one slowed the curing process, the stronger and less likely the cracks.

Invariably I started off with a hose, but if you try this on a warm or hot day, you'll find that the water will evaporate faster than you can hose it down. We took to installing sprinklers, like oscillating kind, which you could set in the middle of a driveway.

Much later, we laid 2x4's along the edge, over plastic and weighed them down with bricks, so we could flood the concrete. It wasn't ideal but flooding worked a heck of a lot better than sprinkling.

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First, depending on exactly what sealer was used, it may not even take it off successfully. Perhaps a test is in order for you. Using muratic acid is not rocket science. Every mason uses it nearly daily, and it's more pure form is used in your pool. The key things to remember are safety glasses, proper ventilation, and "add acid to water". Read your acid documentation. Your application probably calls for 10% acid, which for me meant adding my gallon of acid to two gallons of water. I used a 2 gallon water can with a flower water sprinkler head on it. Pour it on small areas, say 3' by 3', and scrub the acid area with a plastic brush on a LONG handle. Do not bend over near the acid with a hand held brush, as there is no way to avoid breathing the vapors. For my floor, after a couple of minutes you could visually see that the acid was spent, as when you brushed it, no futher bubbling occurred. Flush well with water. The floor should feel like medium grit sandpaper if properly done. Some areas of my garage had some type of sealant. It was easy to tell when I had not gotten through it, as despite the acid wash, the concrete was still smooth. I reapplied the acid a couple of times and it worked eventually. I would recomend a mask with an organic vapor filter, but didn't use one personally. Either way get a couple of good fans for ventillation. More input from others: * I don't like the stuff, since I ahd a very unpleasant experience when using it. I know you have to be extremely careful how you dilute it, and what sort of container you use, etc. It has a lot of contaminates in it so you need to have adequate ventilation. Probably your best bet would be to call the manufacturers, if they have an info 800# most do. Or you can check out bobvilla.com which has some really great info. on lots of "house stuff." * Muriatic Acid is also used to remove rust from steel ... and does a great job. But after the rust is gone it will continue to dissolve the basis steel, so be alert and when the rust is gone ... remove the article. Also, fumes from the acid, though you may not see at once.. will cause eventual surface rust to any steel parts in the close vacinity.

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• Workability is defined as the amount of useful internal work to produce full compaction.
• Factors affecting workability
  
  1. Water content
  2. Mix proportion
  3. Use of admixtures
     

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Depends on how thick it is. At 4 inches thick, you would nee about 5.5 cubic yards adjusting for safety. At 6 inches, you'd need about 8 cubic yards.

You can play with different thicknesses with the linked concrete pad calculator.

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4 quarts approx.

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I would start out by using a hot water pressure washer with a store bought driveway cleaner. You can rent one at your local hardware store. Chances are the muratic acid you used mixed with oil, dirt, or soap that was left behind on your driveway. Next, while the driveway is still wet, mix a small amount of the acid with water in a 5 gallon bucket. Use a disposable dust broom or masonry broom to scrub the acid into the concrete. You will notice that the acid will foam and have a froth on top. This is because the acid is burning the concrete. You will want to rinse the area you scrubbed the acid into right away with the pressure washer. If you fail to rinse ALL of the acid...your concrete will stain, which in your case is a tan color. I've cleaned a few brick and precast buildings in my time. P.S. Don't forget to wear eye protection.

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you need to ask per cubic yard.. and im trying to figure it out as well

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Main function of the lean concrete is to provide the uniform surface to the foundation concrete and to prevent the direct contact of foundation concrete from the soil.

Lean concrete is used under the foundations.