to hang a wall shelf you will first have to find and mark the studs in the wall. Determine where you want to hang the shelf. Mark where the anchors will go. Use a level to ensure your shelf will be straight. Use a drill, and a hammer to install the anchors. Install the brackets, screw the shelf onto the brackets.

Open the interior wall first to make sure you don't have wiring or plumbing that will interfere with the process. Make a mark on the exterior wall with a wax pencil to mark exactly where you will cut. Make sure to measure the RO or "rough opening" on your window or door. You will want the RO to be just a little larger than the actual window size. Most windows or doors come with instructions that give you a suggested RO. Unless you're experienced, stick to the suggested RO. If the interior wall is exposed to the house or building, you may want to consider taping a plastic sheet up because cutting through brick is EXTREMELY noisy and messy. If you have insulation in the wall, this should be removed before cutting through. I usually rent a concrete saw. Most of these are really monsters, so make sure you have the strength to handle one of these and make a pretty straight cut. If you have any doubts, ask the staff at the rental place to set you up with the proper blade. The ones I use are diamond edged and they're very expensive, so make sure you get the insurance coverage if you think you might have an accident and drop one. They're about $80, if I remember correctly. Use a respirator mask, not just a fiber mask. The brick dust is seriously nasty once it gets up your noise. Also make sure to use heavy leather gloves, a dew rag (bandana) and goggles or safety glasses. SAFETY FIRST. I almost always have a ladder ready to make sure I have proper leverage to make the cut. Remove anything from the exterior/surrounding area that you don't want trashed. Again, brick dust is nasty stuff and it will coat everything....cars, cats and canoes. Finally, make your cuts deep enough. Most brick is about 3 inches thick. Cinderblock walls are different animals completely because you'll have to cut then chop. Cinder walls are hollow in the middle, remember. Make your cuts from top to bottom and remember that if you're cutting away a large section of wall, you will need to be prepared to build some kind of a supporting structure to hold that wall until you have steel, aluminum or wooden headers in place. Most windows, unless they're extremely wide, won't remove enough brick to cause a collapse, but better safe than sorry. If you have any doubts about structural integrity, let a pro do it. Once your header's in place, you should insulation the hollow places in the cinderblock. Then install your window, point up more insultation into the nooks and crannies or use GREAT STUFF...it expands to fill in the cracks. The rest is aesthetics.

marble is sure to bring the desired charm to home as well as office decor. Rainforest Brown Marble is an exotic stone consisting of shades of brown and grey with unique deep reddish-brown and white veining that evoke images of tree branches. This stone is especially good for Exterior - Interior wall and floor applications, countertops, mosaic, fountains, pool and wall capping and other design projects. We are the leading Exporter of rainforest brown Marble. This marble is sure to bring the desired charm to home as well as office decor. Implementing Rainforest Brown marble in your home, regardless of where it is installed, can end up being one of the best investments that you ever make.

Why Choose Rainforest Brown Marble:

Rainforest Brown Marble is one of the most beautiful marbles having veins evoking the images of tree.

In addition to its beauty, marble will also increase the value of your home – something that can be very beneficial if the time ever comes to sell.

Rainforest Brown can be processed into Honed, Aged, Polished, Sawn Cut, Sanded, Rock faced, Sandblasted, Bushhammered, Tumbled and so on. This marble is abundantly used in bathrooms, entryways, fireplaces, gardens, and living and dining areas.

4&1/2 sack type 1 type 2 mix is quite standard in the industry but 5 sack mix is very common also. the higher the sack mix the greater the concrete breaking strength.

A floor foundation is poured and a concrete wall structure is constructed to the desired shape of the pool. Filter attachments are inserted into the walls, which are generally reinforced with steel bars, and "solid poured" (the internal cavites are filled with concrete). Once the shell is completed, the pool is waterproofed one of these ways: 1. with cement/white crushed marble, 2. PVC Vinyl waterproof liner, 3. sprayed with a fibreglass strand-reinforced resin coating, 4. painted, 5. tiled.

Cement floor is not the best thing to paint because you could only use floor paint, like they use in factories etc.. Therefore your choice of colours would be very limited, red grey green yellow or black. My advice would be to batten out the floor and line it with a thin board like mdf and paint that. Use oil based paints as they are more durable,but after you have got the floor decorated to your satisfaction, don't forget to seal it , to protect it, with a clear floor varnish or floor sealant. hope this helps

There are many kinds of 'blocks' - even the CMU comes in a variety of materials and weights vary depending who makes them. -AS a rule of thumb, there are 90 CMU's on a standard pallet and they will weigh about 3,600 pounds. - (Could be 100 or so either way.)

the right way to do it is apply blockfiller first, blockfiller is a thick acrilyc water based paint that can be applied by roller and brush. it fills all the cavity's so you can obtain a uniform appearance with the finish coat(s). then you just need to decide between flat,eggshell or semi-gloss finish.(assuming it`s an interior wall) flat hides defects best but is not washable. that can be bad if you have small children! eggshell has a little shine to it but is washable. (i`m a commercial painter and this is what we usually use in office`s school`s etc. where there`s high traffic.) semi-gloss has the highest sheen and is washable but usually reserved for trim (doors, frame`s base etc.) as most people don`t like glaring walls. for an exterior wall blockfill then you have the same choice`s to make just with exterior paint.all blockfiller is good for int. or ext.

the price of one bag of cement in India is about 200 rupees.

it will under excessive humidity or moisture.

There are so many factors that go into the curing of concrete. Ambient temp, ground temperature, wind, rain, sun and many more. A good rule of thumb is wait a month. Around the month time frame place a square piece of plastic sheeting (say 6X6 inch piece). Tape all 4 sides with duct tape. After a day or so if you see condensation under the plastic the concrete is still too wet to paint. Keep checking until it the plastic is dry.

I really hate math, so I used this handy concrete calculator.

http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/howmuch/calculator.htm

Hope it helps.

Mike

Most of the time it comes off the next day. Some will strip it the same day. I just think that is too soon.

Can depend on the mix design of the concrete and what type of cement is used. Can range from 5min to days. Concrete at precast plants that make sewer structures will remove the forms 5min after because of the mix design (0 slump / rapid setting / high strength gain). Bridge girders will be striped 12 - 24 hours after concrete has been placed (high early strength gain cement). Other form work in construction is based of cement type used in the mix design of the concrete or contractors decisions (1 or more days).

The function of a brake scan tool is used to scan the ABS codes. The ABS codes will help diagnose the problem one is having with their brakes. A brake scan tool can be purchased at any parts store such as NAPA.

There are 90 pieces of 8x8x16 blocks on a standard pallet

well you see :) you are going to need more than 4 index cards for this stupid project i would reccomend you using at least 100000 thank you come again :)

That is approximately 1/2 a cubic foot.

Yes, concrete contractors do need a license, which would be a contracting license. You should always ask them for their license before they begins the job, so they have less of a chance of scamming you.

Fair faced concrete is one which after removal of form work is not required to have any further finishes on it like plastering, etc.

Since concrete surface is intended to remain visible all relevant specifications of the concrete surface need to be given in the Tender.

Broadly speaking these specification besides giving compressive strength, etc. of the concrete should also be dealing with desired appearance of the concrete.

As in all works, they should also specify tolerance limits of defects or blemishes for fair faced concrete. Generally blemishes associated with Fair faced concrete are Blowholes, Steps, Fins, Colour variation, etc.

For details and better understanding you may refer to 'Guide to Off form concrete finishes' published by Cement Concrete and Aggregates Australia' Though in India we do not follow it I found it interesting and quite in detail.

~ 1 cu. ft.

A 1/8th inch per foot slope is sufficient enough to properly drain any precipitation. Other than for the purposes of drainage, a slope on a driveway is unnecessary unless it is to deal w/ changes in elevation.